Commuting - Someone tried to steal my bike...

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The bike dude
09-11-06, 01:51 AM
Hello I am new to these forums. I ride too and from work in downtown Phoenix five times a week. I did alot of reasearch before choosing the locks to protect my Giant FCR1. I put silicone in all the bolts and screws. I use a On Guard Bulldog mini connecting the front wheel to the downtube. And a On Guard beast chain, the big one wrapped around the seat tube and rear wheel than around a parking meter so it can not be lifted over it. It's heavy but I felt safe leaving my bike like that. A few days ago when i went to unlock my bike and ride home I noticed the chain had two large indentations in it. Looked like it was done by large bolt cutters. They did not prevail. They are pretty deep like a 1/4 inch in total counting both sides. So I am looking for a new chain to replace this one. I want the finest security chain for my bike that can't be damaged so easily. I first considered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit. But it seems the chain is very difficult to cut but the lock isn't. So I have I have been snooping around the net and found this chain. http://www.*****-security-chains.co.uk/shop/view_product.php?product=51 It seemed like it is probably the best, although its extremely heavy 30 pounds! Before I found this siite I was looking at the Abus Granit extreme. But according this place it can be cut in 12 seconds by large bolt cutters. Any thoughts. What chain would you choose to protect your bike? I've only been looking at chains with a padlock with a shrouded shackle. Any advice aprreciated....
Do you have a link about the Abus Granit being cut?
EDIT: I found it....they cut chains with hydraulic cutters....not a likely tool for bike thieves.......
http://www.*****-security-chains.co.uk/wallofshame.php
It seems your locking strategy worked the way it is supposed to work. Why not just buy a new OnGuard chain and use whatever lock you used with the current one?
--J
Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..
If you can't take your bike inside with you, which is the best option, aren't there any bike lockers in Phoenix near where you work? http://www.cycle-safe.com/UserFiles/File/PDF/csPhoenix.pdf
Well that web site is obviously an advertisement for their lock; whether or not their accurate about that report is anyone's guess. Krypto says their NY chain Fahgettaboudit lock is the best...but that's their advertisement.
But I would say that if the OnGuard worked then why not go back to that? I happen to think you should replace the U lock with the Krypto NY Fahgettaboudit because I saw test resultes somewhere that concluded it to be the toughest U bolt made; the BullDog mini was easily defeated.
BUT, keep in mind, any lock can be defeated, and if a pro wants your bike-they got it. If your really concerned about the security of your bike, buy a cheap Wallyworld bike or a used bike and ride that to work instead, nobody bothers those.
Lock wise your doing the right thing by having 2 locks on it and using a parking meter to lock to, as long as they can't lift the bike over it once the U bolt is defeated.
Here is a link to Sheldon Brown that discusses this subject as well but uses a mini U. Keep in mind with a larger U bolt you can remove the front tire and lock it with the rear tire and frame to the meter, this will prevent the front wheel from getting stolen; then use the chain to lock all of that again. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
mechBgon
09-11-06, 08:33 AM
You might also try the method shown in the last photo on this page: http://www.mechbgon.com/lock If you can find a parking meter that's 1 meter from a streetlight pole, for example, then lock the front wheel & frame to the streetlight pole with your chain, then lock the rear wheel & frame to the parking meter with your U-lock (might need a longer-shackle U-lock however).
If the thief can see at a glance that he's got to cut BOTH your locks on the spot before the bike is going anywhere, he's probably going to look for easier prey.
alanbikehouston
09-11-06, 10:03 AM
"Cycling Plus" tests locks, as does soldsecure.com. Both have found that the Kryptonite New York u-lock, and the OnGuard Beast u-lock protect as well as the very best chains, and weigh half as much. The tests of chains showed some odd results. A very tough padlock would be sold with a mediocre chain. A very tough chain would get sold with a mediocre padlock.
The new Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock may be the very best lock easily found in the USA. It is big enough to get around the rear wheel (just behind the seat tube) and a beefy locking post. But not so big that a crook can insert effective breaking tools. No chain/padlock set-up is likely to provide a higher level of security.
www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm
BrianJ1888
09-11-06, 10:29 AM
am I the only one put off by the ***** chain's price? $260 for a chain?
costs almost as much as my bike.
bmclaughlin807
09-11-06, 12:32 PM
am I the only one put off by the ***** chain's price? $260 for a chain?
costs almost as much as my bike.
Umm... that's more than 5x what I paid for my bike. I'll stick to my $13 Kryptonite cable, thank you. :)
and before you all spout off how easy it is to cut... I DON'T CARE! The bike is inside at night AND at work... the only time it's locked up outside is when I'm in a store, and then I lock it up right by the front door, and I don't go in neighborhoods where everybody is carrying a pair of bolt cutters in their back pocket. :)
ryanparrish
09-11-06, 03:45 PM
Umm... that's more than 5x what I paid for my bike. I'll stick to my $13 Kryptonite cable, thank you. :)
and before you all spout off how easy it is to cut... I DON'T CARE! The bike is inside at night AND at work... the only time it's locked up outside is when I'm in a store, and then I lock it up right by the front door, and I don't go in neighborhoods where everybody is carrying a pair of bolt cutters in their back pocket. :)
Same here I spent 50 dollars on my commuter, (I finally DID IT! commuted to my school) I would spend that money on a lock instead of having to walk home
Brian Sorrell
09-11-06, 04:24 PM
Can anyone evaluate the differences between this Kryptonite (Kryptonite New York Chain"Disc"U lock)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110028855185&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=110028855815&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
and this one (Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110028855804&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=110028855185&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
The best I can tell is that they use the same chain but different locks?? Is that right?? Is the less expensive one close to being as effective??
Lot's Knife
09-11-06, 04:43 PM
The chains are different. The Fuhgettaboudit is thicker (11mm) and six-sided. The New York is 10mm and four-sided. That probably accounts for the price difference. Both are heat-treated manganese steel and tougher than hell. Just a sliver of width in the links makes a leverage attack very difficult.
The locks are roughly the same. They both have reinforced crossbars. I'm not certain the Fuhgettaboudit has the pivoting shackle that the New York does. The New York's dust cover roatates. The Fuhgettaboudit's slides. That's about it.
I carry the New York around my waist. Six-point-one pounds.
Brian Sorrell
09-11-06, 04:54 PM
Thanks. I think I'm comfy with the NY then.
CastIron
09-11-06, 04:55 PM
I lock my bike with a 1mm thin cable and a TSA approved luggage lock. My bike never gets messed with. I augment the lock with the head on a stem mounted spike cut off the last bike thief who made a go of it. They eyes double as blinkies too!
Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..
Hey, my Schwinn Varsity weighs exactly 44 pounds! That doesn't stop everyone, I've caught two tweakers on separate occasions trying to steal it. One of them was bashing at the lock with a nice SLR style digital camera. Probably needed a ride to the pawn shop to sell the camera he just stole. Who knows. I just started loading my grocery racks without saying anything, and he scampered off like Gollum. Nasty bicycle man interrupts us, yes precious.
Anyway, I guess I had a point. I carry two good locks, on all of my bikes. Even a thirty pound bike with two locks is still 14 pounds lighter than a Varsity with two locks. Either one will be preferable to walking home, no matter how much those locks weigh.
ItsJustMe
09-11-06, 06:17 PM
Why not just buy a beater bike that weighs 44 pounds and ride it? What is the point of riding a nice light bike if you have to haul twice as much weight in locks to protect it?..
I once saw a discussion of the rampant bike theivery going on in Amsterdam. They said that in Amsterdam, all bikes weigh 40 pounds. You can buy a 10 pound racing bike and you need 30 pounds of locks to keep it safe, or a 30 pound bike and only a 10 pound bike. Or you can buy a 40 pound bike and the thieves won't even look at it.
Lot's Knife
09-11-06, 06:42 PM
The no-name chains I've seen in Amsterdam are the thickness of the Kryptonite chains referenced above, usually secured with a big molly lock. In small towns to the south, people use just their integral ring locks, linguini-thin cables or nothing at all.
wmcmiii
09-11-06, 08:23 PM
Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
I just started loading my grocery racks without saying anything, and he scampered off like Gollum. Nasty bicycle man interrupts us, yes precious.
:roflmao:
Thanks, now I get to start the day by wiping my morning tea off the monitor.
--J
LóFarkas
09-12-06, 02:40 AM
Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
Problem is, if the thief is not obliging enough to leave the compromised lock at the scene, or some of the paperwork isn't spot on, you're SOL. I'd prefer having my bike to having a claim. (BTW, with my Abus sinus, I won't even have a claim if she gets jacked... :( Just saying that I have zero trust in warranties.)
BTW, OP: Your bike was there after a theft attempt... What more do you want from a bike lock? Why do you want to go bigger? Why do you think that a claim made by a manufacturer about its competition has any foundation whatsoever??? Abus, Krypto and OnGuard will all serve you well. U-lock, preferably.
Does anybody pay attention to the warranties attached to these locks? I just bought the cheapest lock that had enough built in insurance to cover the price of my bike.
Have YOU paid attention to these warranties?
These warranties and insurance for bike and/or lock replacement are almost never paid out because of all the hoops you have to go through to get them to pay! First you have to have a police report, then you have to have photos of the undisturbed crime scene including photos of the locks in position around whatever you attached it to, then you have to send the lock company your destroyed lock, then you have to have your original receipt and the original package the lock came it with the barcode intact, plus a receipt for the bike; you don't have just one item of this stuff they don't pay. And then if the company determines that somehow or another you did not lock your bike up correctly-they don't pay, meaning they don't pay for the bike or the lock.
And if that's not enough, the insurance aspect of the lock is only good for a set period of time usually 1 year after purchase, so either you have to renew the insurance or you have to buy a new lock to get new insurance coverage-or they don't pay. Don't let the warranty of the lock which is usually lifetime fool you into thinking the insurance is also good for that long because it's not.
Your best bet is to have homeowners or renters insurance with contents replacement to offset depreciation, but even then your going to have a deductable of at least $500, plus you still need a police report and the receipt for the bike, sometimes insurance companies will take a detailed photo of the bike as proof of ownership and the to see the quality of the bike.
mechBgon
09-12-06, 08:40 AM
I think the best approach here would be to keep the thief from trying in the first place. If you can find two poles 1 meter apart and use the double-locking technique, that ought to be a deterrent. And with one chain lock plus one U-lock, you can put the chain lock around something big like a streetlight pole.
Otherwise, you could move up to three locks. Bulldog mini for your frame & front wheel, Kryptonite Evolution LS Mini through your rear wheel & chainstays and around the parking meter, and then your chain lock also through your rear wheel & chainstays and around the parking meter. Again, the prospect of defeating two locks before being able to take the bike ought to send them looking for an easier mark.
If you can leave some of the locks at your parking point, or at least at your workplace's loading dock or something, then you don't have to tote them around all the time.
What would stop someone from whacking the top off the parking meter and lifting your bike over the top? I see meters missing quite a bit. Signs on a meter pole could be shredded off too. I'd always lock to something more substantial.
CliftonGK1
09-12-06, 10:35 AM
I use an OnGuard Rottweiller with integrated lock. Much the same as bmclaughlin807 stated above: My bike is in my apartment or in my cube when I'm not riding it on commute. Otherwise, I'm locking it to a rack or a metal-pipe railing outside a storefront for 10 minutes, in an area not known for having a high instance of bike theft.
I lock through my rear wheel and frame, don't lock my front QR wheel, and don't have theft deterrent BBs glued in all my allen bolts. When I lived in Cincinnati and locked it in cr@p locations, I used a heavier U-lock through the rear wheel/frame/detatched front wheel, and secured everything I could.
It's a matter of location, thieves' determination levels, and your desire to protect your ride that should determine which lock setup is best for you. Sounds to me like the lock setup you've got did the job: There's scar marks, but no one made off with your whip, so it's all good.
You would be surprised what people steel just to steel given a chance. A beater bike is likely to walk too if it is not adequately clamped down. The only good thing is that you are not out as much money.
Martian Biker
09-12-06, 04:37 PM
I had the Krypto Fahgettaboudit chain/lock. The combo was neatly removed by the city after I took my bike home and left combo around a pole for a weekend. Since then, I'm leery of whatever claim a lock manufacturer makes.
Your locking strategy and choice of locks look great. Try also complementing it with placing your bike in high traffic area if there is one nearby. Avoid leaving your bike (even locked) over night.
The thing that I fear most is not so much about broken lock, but the thief's outpouring of his frustration at tough lock via vandalism on my bike!
Unfortunately, my Einstein's quote below also applies to a determined thief. :mad:
robtown
09-12-06, 05:21 PM
How about locking the rear wheel and frame down and taking the front wheel inside? At least a thief wouldn't be able to ride away easily.
I stage my rides by leaving my car at work. The bike gets locked up in the car. On the rare days I round trip I use a beater bike or my cheaper MTB.
The bike dude
09-14-06, 01:27 AM
Hey I'm back. I ordered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit chain, and the Cisa Monoblock padlock to replace the NY disk lock on it. Mean while without another lock to use I used the Same chain that was damaged in a theft attempt. They tried to cut it again now the chain is almost cut through. After vowing to kill them if I catch them trying. I ordered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit U lock too. Where I lock my bike I cant lock it to two posts like you suggested. So I am taking the bus for a few days, when they get here I am going to lock my bike with the Fahgettaboudit chain with Cisa lock, and the Fahgettaboudit U lock to the parking meter. And keep using the mini u for the front wheel. I dont think there is much else I can do for protecting the bike. And I checked and there are no bike lockers near where I work. This is getting ridiculus...
Check out Pitlock locking skewers for the wheels. My wife and I have used them for several years without incident.
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/about.html
LóFarkas
09-14-06, 04:18 AM
If the guy is so determined he'll go back to the same bike with bolt cutters again, then locking skewers won't stop him, that's for sure.
What kind of bike is it again?
I'm thinking that you have pissed off somebody personally...
How about calling the local police station and informing them of the recent events.
What kind of bike is it again?
my Giant FCR1
Either someone spotted a half-cut chain and decided to try and finish the job, or your bike has a persistant fan. I guess it's out of the question for you or a friend to stay by somewhere close to the bike to see who's trying to steal it?
--J
Cyclaholic
09-14-06, 06:34 AM
Sounds to me like what you need is not a new lock but a sniper rifle with a silencer, and a vantage point overlooking your bike.
CliftonGK1
09-14-06, 10:11 AM
Sounds to me like what you need is not a new lock but a sniper rifle with a silencer, and a vantage point overlooking your bike.
Lock it with the same (almost cut through) chain again.
Stake it out and wait for thief to return.
Beat thief unconscious with Fahgettaboudit U-lock.
Unlock bike and attach thief to parking meter with lock and large chain.
Write "BIKE THIEF" on thief's forehead using a Mag44 permanent marker.
Invite the gang from the SS/FG forum to the location.
Post pictures on bikeforums.net
uspspro
06-25-07, 12:38 PM
Lock it with the same (almost cut through) chain again.
Stake it out and wait for thief to return.
Beat thief unconscious with Fahgettaboudit U-lock.
Unlock bike and attach thief to parking meter with lock and large chain.
Write "BIKE THIEF" on thief's forehead using a Mag44 permanent marker.
Invite the gang from the SS/FG forum to the location.
Post pictures on bikeforums.net
:beer:
Doug5150
06-25-07, 12:45 PM
Have YOU paid attention to these warranties?
These warranties and insurance for bike and/or lock replacement are almost never paid out because of all the hoops you have to go through to get them to pay! ....
Yes I have noticed this, on the last couple "better" locks I bought....
the way I read it,,,
-the lock's theft guarantee will only pay up to a certain amount of the deductible of the home or renter's insurance that covers your bike.... but most home and renter's insurance doesn't cover anything off-site of the home or rental property. If you want that sort of coverage (on your bike when it's locked up anyplace other than your home!) you have to pay extra for that.... So now you're paying extra on your homeowner's insurance, just so Kryptonite or whoever will pay the deductible if you make a claim on a stolen bicycle? Hardly seems worth the bother IMO.
~
alanbikehouston
06-25-07, 12:49 PM
You are using really good locks in the correct manner. So, why did the crook target your bike? You left a very expensive, very attractive bike unattended for an extended period of time. And, it was likely the ONLY attractive, and expensive bike in that area.
In addition to using good locks correctly, you need to make your bike far less attractive to crooks. My favorite bike for parking four or five hours at "rough" locations was a "pro" quality bike that was twenty years old, spray can painted, with numerous scratches and dents. It rode like new. It looked like junk.
I would look for a "flashy" bike, such a new Cannondale at a rack that was "un" secured with only a cable lock. I would lock my "junk" bike next to the Cannondale using a pair of good locks from Kryptonite or OnGuard.
And I knew: if any bike was gonna get stolen that day, it was gonna be the Cannondale. Crooks are lazy, and greedy. They are going to target the bike with the weakest locks that looks the newest and prettiest.
I think the "toughest" locking method is NOT a chain. It is a "mini" u-lock such as the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock, around a beefy steel post set in concrete. A mini u-lock does not leave enough open space for prying tools, and resists manual cutting for hours and hours.
High power cutting tools? Well, thank goodness most cities have never seen bikes stolen with high power cutting tools...no lock will defeat THAT sort of attack.
I suggest locking your bike up to a natural gas pipeline next time. If this is becoming personal (a challenge for the thief?) then he'll be back with bigger tools...
EDIT: On second thought, if you wrap three impenetrable locks on your bike, he'll forget about stealing it and just damage it instead.
I say it's time for a stake out. Take a day off but ride in and watch for who tries to steal it.
Blue Order
06-25-07, 01:57 PM
Hello I am new to these forums. I ride too and from work in downtown Phoenix five times a week. I did alot of reasearch before choosing the locks to protect my Giant FCR1. I put silicone in all the bolts and screws. I use a On Guard Bulldog mini connecting the front wheel to the downtube. And a On Guard beast chain, the big one wrapped around the seat tube and rear wheel than around a parking meter so it can not be lifted over it. It's heavy but I felt safe leaving my bike like that. A few days ago when i went to unlock my bike and ride home I noticed the chain had two large indentations in it. Looked like it was done by large bolt cutters. They did not prevail. They are pretty deep like a 1/4 inch in total counting both sides. So I am looking for a new chain to replace this one. I want the finest security chain for my bike that can't be damaged so easily. I first considered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit. But it seems the chain is very difficult to cut but the lock isn't. So I have I have been snooping around the net and found this chain. http://www.*****-security-chains.co.uk/shop/view_product.php?product=51 It seemed like it is probably the best, although its extremely heavy 30 pounds! Before I found this siite I was looking at the Abus Granit extreme. But according this place it can be cut in 12 seconds by large bolt cutters. Any thoughts. What chain would you choose to protect your bike? I've only been looking at chains with a padlock with a shrouded shackle. Any advice aprreciated....Buy the lock with the best chain, and the lock with the best lock, and use the best chain with the best lock. Sell the other set.
Hey I'm back. I ordered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit chain, and the Cisa Monoblock padlock to replace the NY disk lock on it.That's what I'm talking about.
Mean while without another lock to use I used the Same chain that was damaged in a theft attempt. They tried to cut it again now the chain is almost cut through. After vowing to kill them if I catch them trying. I ordered the Krypto Fahgettaboudit U lock too. Where I lock my bike I cant lock it to two posts like you suggested. So I am taking the bus for a few days, when they get here I am going to lock my bike with the Fahgettaboudit chain with Cisa lock, and the Fahgettaboudit U lock to the parking meter. And keep using the mini u for the front wheel. I dont think there is much else I can do for protecting the bike. And I checked and there are no bike lockers near where I work. This is getting ridiculus...I think that should do it. Lock up near a less secure bike, and always vary your routine (where and when you lock up.).
Isn't this thread from last year?
Isn't this thread from last year?
Indeed it is.
http://img464.imageshack.us/img464/8420/deadthread4ab.jpg
Blue Order
06-25-07, 02:40 PM
Actually, the OP raised the thread because he had some new information to post....
pedalMonger
06-25-07, 03:34 PM
http://i15.tinypic.com/4lf8sbm.gif
http://haxxors.org/~monger/Resurrection.mp3
Your best bet is to have homeowners or renters insurance with contents replacement to offset depreciation, but even then your going to have a deductable of at least $500, plus you still need a police report and the receipt for the bike, sometimes insurance companies will take a detailed photo of the bike as proof of ownership and the to see the quality of the bike.
If only my bike would go up to six times its value, I'd get some money back after a $500 deductible.
Actually, the OP raised the thread because he had some new information to post....
http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=4725285&postcount=35
It wasn't the OP
:beer: is NOT "new information"
I think the "toughest" locking method is NOT a chain. It is a "mini" u-lock such as the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit u-lock, around a beefy steel post set in concrete. A mini u-lock does not leave enough open space for prying tools, and resists manual cutting for hours and hours.
.
Actually this isn't entirely true. The best locking "method" is to use two different kind of locks, one would be the U-Lock and the other would be the chain.
BUT in reality the best method if your that concerned about the safety of you bike where you park it is to buy a $50 used GoodWill special or a cheap new WallyWorld bike, then just buy an adequate lock for it. ANY lock can be overcome and be overcome in matter of seconds, even the U-Locks and the hefty chain jobs by a good lock picker without the need for cumbersome tools. In fact a pro thief can set down at your bike, pick the lock while the whole time pretend he's having minor difficulty with his "key". In Europe they actually have public contests to see who can defeat the most amount of locks in a given time frame using only picks, and it's eventally going to catch on here, but the professional crooks already know how to do this here. There are web sites that show you what tools to buy and how the process is done....Doesn't that make you feel secure now? Only real security you have is buy a cheap crappy bike and lock it, the thief will move on to a more valuable bike that some fool thought they could lock up.
And parking your prized bike next to a cheaper bike won't work; pros are pros, they know the values of bikes and will take the one they can get the most amount of money for.
There are new locks out that use cams instead of pins but no bike locks use them yet and very few places even sell them for home use; but even these can be picked given a real pro who has studied the lock.
Blue Order
06-25-07, 08:25 PM
http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=4725285&postcount=35
It wasn't the OP
:beer: is NOT "new information"
D'OH!
Blue Order
06-25-07, 08:30 PM
Actually this isn't entirely true. The best locking "method" is to use two different kind of locks, one would be the U-Lock and the other would be the chain.
BUT in reality the best method if your that concerned about the safety of you bike where you park it is to buy a $50 used GoodWill special or a cheap new WallyWorld bike, then just buy an adequate lock for it. ANY lock can be overcome and be overcome in matter of seconds, even the U-Locks and the hefty chain jobs by a good lock picker without the need for cumbersome tools. In fact a pro thief can set down at your bike, pick the lock while the whole time pretend he's having minor difficulty with his "key". In Europe they actually have public contests to see who can defeat the most amount of locks in a given time frame using only picks, and it's eventally going to catch on here, but the professional crooks already know how to do this here. There are web sites that show you what tools to buy and how the process is done....Doesn't that make you feel secure now? Only real security you have is buy a cheap crappy bike and lock it, the thief will move on to a more valuable bike that some fool thought they could lock up.
And parking your prized bike next to a cheaper bike won't work; pros are pros, they know the values of bikes and will take the one they can get the most amount of money for.
There are new locks out that use cams instead of pins but no bike locks use them yet and very few places even sell them for home use; but even these can be picked given a real pro who has studied the lock.The only problem with this level of paranoia is that most bike thieves aren't pros, they're skanky opportunists looking for meth money; most bike thefts are bikes that weren't locked in the first place, and coming in second are bikes that were locked with a cheap cable lock. Does that sound like pros who can pick any lock to you?
The only problem with this level of paranoia is that most bike thieves aren't pros, they're skanky opportunists looking for meth money; most bike thefts are bikes that weren't locked in the first place, and coming in second are bikes that were locked with a cheap cable lock. Does that sound like pros who can pick any lock to you?
Exactly. I don't take bike security lightly. but at the same time I don't fret and worry about it to the point where it ruins the the joy of riding.
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