Classic & Vintage - There must be something in the Breeze

I'm finally living up to my name. The junkers keep finding me.

Picked up a '66 Schwinn Breeze today for $4. It's in great shape, actually. Since my search for a decent vintage road bike has yielded no tangible results (well, except for the Varsity Little Darwin kidnapped from me), I've decided I need a project to keep me busy and something on which to spend my meager allowance. So, I've decided to do a poor man's restoration (refurbishment?) on it.

I figure $50 can get me tires, tubes, cables, etc. Some elbow grease can get the bike a little cleaner. I'd also like to prep the inside of the frame to inhibit any internal rust (you can get into the tubes of an EF Schwinn with some stabilizer, right?) I'll also repack all bearings - which I'm sure will yield pitted cones and races, driving my cost up. Finally - and the real reason I picked this up - I'll disassemble/clean/inspect the Sturmey AW hub.

If anyone has any advice, warnings or insults - please, feel free.

I do have one specific question. I'd like, if at all possible, to use the existing Weinmann brakes. But how in God's name do you adjust them? My guess is, the springs no longer have even tension, but I thought maybe there were some tricks to use to get them at least moderately centered on the wheel? Are these things pure crap? Should I just suck it up and replace them with something better? If so, what?

Also, if I stick with the Weinmann's, does anyone have suggestions for compatible brake shoes that would work well on the S-5 crome rims?

I'll be sure to post some pics soon. And when I encounter problems, I'll be sure to share them with you!

Here she is, my electro-forged bride in the morning light:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/drive_side.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/non_drive_side.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/drivetrain.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/SA_AW_66_2.jpg

What a beautiful Schwinn! I think that's the finest $4 purchase I've ever seen:)

Most of the chrome is in really nice shape. That should be an easy restoration!

The springs should have "some" tension left. Are you certain it's not the cables hanging up in the housings?
I would recommend new housings and cables. and then make absolutely certain the center of the spring is sitting at a right angle to the rim. Most centering problems I've run into have been the cause of a crooked spring. The best way I have found is to disassemble the calipers, and tighten the mounting shaft with the spring completely straight in the slot. grease the pivot points with a light grease, and reassemble them.

If all else fails, you can run with the mounting shaft a tiny bit loose. Or, with the caliper assembled, hold the spring block centered with a pair of needle nose vise grips, and tighten the rear nut. I have found even the oldest Weinmanns can be put back into service with a little TLC. Make sure the caliper arms aren't squeezed too hard onto the shaft. Tighten the nut just enough to keep them from moving forward, and then tighten the locknut like you would a hub cone. While you have them apart, grab a little aluminum polish and shine the arms up. With very little work they'll look brand new.

BTW:That is a BEAUTIFUL bike. I would blow it completely apart, rebuild the hubs and headset, shine the paint up with some cleaner wax, clean the chrome, and reassemble. It will look very close to new with some elbow grease and polish. Leave the decals alone though!! They will wear off if you even look at them with a polish rag in your hand, lol.,,,,BD

$4? Amazing!

For brake shoes, sheldon brown sells some salmon color brake shoes. Or, visit your local shop and pick up some Jagwire shoes. from my experience they stop a bike like yesterday. In other words, keep a firm hold on the grips, hehe. You can also tweak the caliper arms
to toe the shoes in. Just slip a small crescent wrench and ever so gently bend them in. Don't overdo it though. I wouldn't recommend bending them more than once. One direction only. If you go too far and try to bend them back, it could fatigue them to point of breakage. Of course it would happen at the worst possible time.,,,,BD

Bikedued,

Thanks for the mini tutorial. Very helpful. I'm planning on doing exactly what you said - stripping the bike down to it's frame, overhauling bearings, and cleaning it up. So, I'll use your advice when I get to the rebuild part. The brake calipers work wonderfully (and they're only 40 years old!), they are simply not centered. The brake shoes on the other hand ...


For brake shoes, sheldon brown sells some salmon color brake shoes.

I was thinking of Kool stops, though the prices on some are a bit high. But, I was also slightly confused about the fit. It looks like the Continentals (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html) or Eagle 2's would be compatible?

Also, I was thinking of clearcoating the frame myself. I've read a bit about DIY paint jobs, and I know I could end up making it look worse than it originally was, unless I'm very patient and apply many, many light coats. Or maybe a paint shop would do a clearcoat on a frame for cheap.

Anyway, my first endeavor will be inspecting/cleaning the hub. I just need to find a vice.

By the time you finish rubbing up that frame, you won't want to clearcoat. The paint is fabulous on those things. Nice bike.

I found an old Raleigh with those same brake issues and I just squeezed a bit of grease down into the cable housings and voila they were like new. Nice find, black and chrome works so well together.

Finally - and the real reason I picked this up - I'll disassemble/clean/inspect the Sturmey AW hub.

If anyone has any advice, warnings or insults - please, feel free.

find a picture of the hub---exploded view---and have at it! The first is a little daunting, but it becomes a easier the more you do (or the more often)

(or have your digital camera ready and take photos as you go!)

Good luck

I was thinking of Kool stops, though the prices on some are a bit high. But, I was also slightly confused about the fit. It looks like the Continentals (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html) or Eagle 2's would be compatible?

Also, I was thinking of clearcoating the frame myself. I've read a bit about DIY paint jobs, and I know I could end up making it look worse than it originally was, unless I'm very patient and apply many, many light coats. Or maybe a paint shop would do a clearcoat on a frame for cheap.


Koolstop Contis would work, although I've seen one aftermarket knockoff of Weinmann's "X" pattern brake pad that works quite well. Looks identical to the original "X" pattern Weinmanns, but with a rough texture to it, and rather soft rubber. If it's easy to grip/gouge the contact surface of the pad with your nail, the pad should work well on a steel rim.

Do NOT clearcoat that frame - the clear will run, and ruin the finish. No need to do so anyway - after all, that paint has lasted since 1966 in pretty much mint condition (wax it and you'll see), why bother to improve on something perfect? Wax AROUND the decals as mentioned here before.

Take care,

-Kurt

Don't hesitate to take the brakes apart and clean them. I have done that on some center pulls, and sidepulls, they are pretty easy as long as you pay attention to what goes where.

When I do it, I also lube all the pivots with a teflon based lube. I guess grease would work too. It is amazing what a good cleaning and lube will do for the smooth operation of the brakes.

If you are even thinking of taking apart the 3 speed hub, you should be very confident in knowing how much simpler the brakes are. The sping can be pulled off of the studs that ension the brakes with pliers, and removing the tension should be your first step... re-applying the tension should be one of the last things...

If you have problems, let us know here, and we can help you out.

There's no harm in taking it apart, of course, and they are pretty cool to look at, but I'd be surprised if the AW needed anything other than a squirt of oil -- if that. I'd open it up only if it was not functioning correctly.

That is a FABULOUS bike! Of course, I love the Schwinn Breeze, but regardless, what a great bike, especially when you see that you got it for $4!!!! My baby is a"73 in Campus Green Breeze, single speed with Bendix coaster brake, and she's fabulous, too! Good luck with the restoration! You will love the smooth, relaxed ride that you get with her!:)

Well, here's the mess I've made of the hub (some parts missing from photo). The gears, pawls, etc. are all in great shape with no visible wear at all. All parts were covered in aged oil turned to syrup. The pawls were sticking, so I'm glad I opened it. The only parts that need replacement are the bearing balls.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/hub_internals.jpg

Here's a photo of the front axle. The grease is still clear! This bike looks like it was hardly used. The rear cones probably need replacement, but the fronts have no pitting, and only minor wear. Since it's open though, I probably should replace all cones. Most of the cups look to be in good shape.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/FH_axle.jpg

Here's a brake shoe. It's probably original, but doesn't have the "X" pattern cudak888 mentioned. If these were rubber at one time, they've fossilized. They feel like plastic.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/brake_shoe.jpg

Here's a bearing retainer from the bottom bracket (which incidentally has absolutely no internal rust!). Grease is still clean. I've read about how the Schwinns were completely, or almost completely built in the Schwinn factories. But even the bearing retainers?!?!

This leads me to a question. Should I be searching for bearing retainers with the bearing balls, or should I simply replace the balls and use the existing retainers? I think it would be neat to resuse the Schwinn retainers, and I'm not sure what grade balls a new retainer would come equipped with. I'd like to get 25 grade. I've reused retainers before, but does this procedure scratch the bearing balls?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/bb_retainer.jpg

Finally, about the comments on the paint. While it is in very good condition, I think the photos make it look much nicer than it is. There are many scratches, especially on the top tube, a few chips and gouges and some rusting, especially on the chainstays. The fenders, which are not chrome though they may appear to be in the photo, have small dents and quite a bit of surface scratching and rust. My idea to clearcoat was first to preserve the existing paint, but also to seal the areas that are rusting (after cleaning them of course). It just seems there is too much to do with touch up paint, and I don't want to make a mess of it.

Oh, one more thing. How is the handlebar stem attached to the fork? I've removed the bolt running through the stem, but the fork and stem remain mated. I sprayed some WD-40 inside the head tube, but I can't budge the stem or fork.

First, hit the top of the stem with a rubber mallet and see if you can shake it loose. You are on the right track, after loosening the bolt it should just come out.

Second, in replacing the BB bearings, the retainer is simply to help retain the bearings for easy installation, so replacing the balls shouldn't be an issue. You can also dump the retainer and increase the number of balls for an even smoother BB... just harder to install. :D

If you do use the existing retainers, based on my guesses only, you won't scratch the bearings, especially if you do get a good grade of bearing which is much harder than the retainer.

Here's a brake shoe. It's probably original, but doesn't have the "X" pattern cudak888 mentioned. If these were rubber at one time, they've fossilized. They feel like plastic.

That is the 6-nub Weinmann brake pad design - standard on these bikes when new, and guaranteed to be rock-hard, no matter where or when you find them. As you can imagine, the rock-hard pads won't bite into anything.

The "X" pattern Weinmann brake pads I was referring to was a different design that Weinmann produced - I mentioned it only as it so happens that one of the better aftermarket pads available out there features the same pattern. (Not to be confused with the current "X" pattern variant under the Pyramid name).



This leads me to a question. Should I be searching for bearing retainers with the bearing balls, or should I simply replace the balls and use the existing retainers?

I'd go right ahead and do so. In fact, I re-used the original retainer AND bearing balls when I refurbished my 1971 Schwinn Continental.



Finally, about the comments on the paint. While it is in very good condition, I think the photos make it look much nicer than it is. There are many scratches, especially on the top tube, a few chips and gouges and some rusting, especially on the chainstays. The fenders, which are not chrome though they may appear to be in the photo, have small dents and quite a bit of surface scratching and rust. My idea to clearcoat was first to preserve the existing paint, but also to seal the areas that are rusting (after cleaning them of course). It just seems there is too much to do with touch up paint, and I don't want to make a mess of it.

Scratches or no scratches, small rust spots or no small rust spots, DON'T clearcoat it. You can use some anti-rust spray to slow the rust down (not that I've found an example on a bike that spreads too much when maintained), or use phosphoric acid (auto shops) over the rust on the chainstays that is not as easy to see. The phosphoric acid will neutralize the rust and modify the molecular consistency to create a black, protective coating. Don't touch things up either.

For the record, I have not used phosphoric acid or touchup paint on my Continental, and not one of the rust spots have caused any issues.

Take care,

-Kurt

JYB, got to a BMW motorcycle dealer, get a tube of their Schwartz(sp)/Black touch-up paint for the early Boxers. This is premium Glasurit paint and should match exactly. You can fill in the chips and buff it smothe. Do your trials in an inconspicous place, Jumping on the band wagon... Don't clearcoat!

See, your Schwinn Breeze is even beautiful on the inside! What more could you ask for? (LOL!) :D Enjoy!

This is my 1973 Schwinn Breeze in Campus Green. She is a single speed, coaster brake bicycle. She is in great shape, except for the usual scratches a bike only 9 years younger than me would have. ( I have many more dings than she does! :eek: ) Anyway, here are some pics, including one of the Bendix Coaster Brake Arm. I have added the NOS Schwinn reflectors. The package said 1974, so I figure it's an upgrade. Personally, I think they look great! I've also added a bell and the basket, which I only plan to put on it when I need it. And, the last pic is of her 1973 license plate that shows where I wish I was riding my Breeze!

First, hit the top of the stem with a rubber mallet and see if you can shake it loose. You are on the right track, after loosening the bolt it should just come out.

Thanks. After a few WD-40 and hammer sessions, it finally broke loose. The rust between the fork and stem is the worst I've found on the bike!


I re-used the original retainer AND bearing balls when I refurbished my 1971 Schwinn Continental

I think I'll replace most bearing balls, but I can't seem to find any 5/16 bearing balls for the BB - except loosescrews.com which has some of the carbon variety. Any thoughts on carbon bearing balls? I could always try a LBS, but I haven't found any in this region I like or trust.

Oh, and I promise, I won't clearcoat it.


JYB, got to a BMW motorcycle dealer, get a tube of their Schwartz(sp)/Black touch-up paint for the early Boxers.

The BMW motorcycle dealer down the street just closed! I may try to find another though, thanks for the tip.


This is my 1973 Schwinn Breeze in Campus Green.

Nice bike!

Harris Cyclery has cones for the Sturmey hub, but does anyone know where I can find cones for the front Schwinn 200 hub? I've searched the internet and come up empty. There is no pitting on these cones, but there is a noticeable groove along the bearing ball path. I'm thinking of reusing them, but it seems foolish to install new bearing balls one a worn cone.

Just think of them as broken in. :)

I think a groove's fine, as long as there's no pitting. I'd just go ahead and throw those bearings in.

I love my Breezes. I have a blue '69 single speed coaster brake, and a green 3 speed. both in nice shape. the green one was free and I payed $15 for the blue one. I have a question about seats. both have the black seats, but I'm parting out a '52 traveler and it has a two-tone blue and white "S" seat on it. I was wondering how to get it looking closer to new so I could maybe put it on the blue '69.

Cool Breeze

I redid my wifes 74 red Breeze and screwed up the decals

Anyone know a source for these?

Bearings and cones for the SA hub came in, so I'm ready to reassemble it. I posted a thread (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=230126) in mechanics re: pawl springs, and received conflicting advice about greasing/not greasing bearings and oil type. Searching the archives turns up similar "conflict." I know there are likely to be many viable options, but I'm curious to have more opinions:

1. Do you grease the bearing balls (internal and "external")? With what lube?
2. What oil do you use to lubricate the hub?

Bearings and cones for the SA hub came in, so I'm ready to reassemble it. I posted a thread (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=230126) in mechanics re: pawl springs, and received conflicting advice about greasing/not greasing bearings and oil type. Searching the archives turns up similar "conflict." I know there are likely to be many viable options, but I'm curious to have more opinions:

1. Do you grease the bearing balls (internal and "external")? With what lube?
2. What oil do you use to lubricate the hub?

These questions are a can of worms sitting on a land mine...
from the SA Technical information, "Lubricate the bearings with high quality lithium based grease...lubricate the hub once every three months (or as necessary) with a few drops of Sturmey-Archer oil (SAE 30).

if the bearings are not dull and I don't see any signs of rust or pitting, even with a visible ring where the bearings run i don't hesitate to reinstall. On old cones like that which I suspect are fairly soft compared to say campy records, I would guess that that mark would appear in a new cone within a few months or even weeks of riding. That is how it is with the cheep suzue cones I often use to rebuild sunshine and suzue hubs. they are a dark colour, almost black, when new and the first time you open them up after installing them and a few rides that silver rings has appeared. I will agreee with the "think of it as broken in" school of thought.

...I figure $50 can get me tires, tubes, cables, etc.... I do have one specific question. I'd like, if at all possible, to use the existing Weinmann brakes. But how in God's name do you adjust them? My guess is, the springs no longer have even tension, but I thought maybe there were some tricks to use to get them at least moderately centered on the wheel? Are these things pure crap? Should I just suck it up and replace them with something better? If so, what?...

Sorry, I've come late to this conversation, I was away on vacation. The Weinmann brakes will serve you well and as others have mentioned, new shoes/blocks, new cables and housings (even inexpensive ones), and a complete cleaning will do the trick. Also adjust them with enough "play" between fully open and contact with the rim. Leverage is what you are looking for. The more leverage the better the stopping power. :D

I cleaned the ones off my '66 Collegiate with Blue Magic (found it at my local ACE), and they gleam! Heres a picture of one before I installed them and swapped out the original blocks and holders. I find that they stop my big mass + the 40 lb. EF Schwinn, just fine. Good luck with your project.

Progress report: The SA is back together, freshly oiled with new bearings. I think I reassembled it properly. I'll have to see if it tears itself to bits when I finally get the bike back together:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/sturmey_clean.jpg

It's almost ready for reassembly. I need to wax the frame and fork, polish the wheels and other crome, and clean the pedals.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/pedal.jpg

A couple questions:

1. How can I lubricate the pedals? It doesn't appear that they are built for servicing? I assume there are bearings in there, but how do I get to them? I've tried prying what looks like the inside ball race, but to no avail. Do I have to try harder? Or should I just spray a teflon or like lube in the the joints? BTW, they are not frozen, but they do sound gravely when they spin.



2. What is the proper adjustment for the front wheel hub? If I tighten it just enough to eliminate any play, I can feel a sort of pulsating resistance from the bearings. If I loosen it just a fraction, it rotates more smoothly (although still a faint detection of that pulsation), but there is play in the hub. I spent well over an hour trying to find the sweet spot, but that's the best I could do. Hints? Suggestions?

2: it sounds like a bearing problem, race, balls or cones... maybe even some dirt. That's where I'd look.

2: it sounds like a bearing problem, race, balls or cones... maybe even some dirt. That's where I'd look.

I overhauled the hub. New bearing balls, races looked good, lots of grease. I reused the cones which had no pitting, just a very minor groove path from the previous balls (wore off the original surfacing, nothing very deep). I did, however, abandon the bearing ball retainers in favor of 10 loose bearing balls per side vs. the original 7 per side.

Besides, I was advised to consider these hubs broken in! :D

Maybe the problem is my perception. How smooth should these be? When I had the axle in a vice and spun the wheel, it seemed very smooth. It's when I hold both axle ends in my hands and spin the wheel that I feel the slight pulsation. Maybe what I'm feeling is of no real concern?

Ok, you got me there :) It's probably perception, they're not campy hubs ;)

Ok, you got me there :) It's probably perception, they're not campy hubs ;)

That would be heresy, wouldn't it, putting Campy hubs on an EF Schwinn? To think, bastardizing the pure pedigree of a Chicago built Schwinn with flimsy Italian components!

Those pedals aren't really made to be serviced, but it is possible. You need to grind off the mushroomed end of the pins that hold the rubber blocks in place. That will allow the end plates to be removed from the pedals so you can service the bearings. If there is still enough left of the pins, you can reuse them by flaring them with a ballpeen hammer, or you can get some #10-32 all-thread and some acorn nuts to replace the pins.

For all you Sturmey experts: I have the AW hub and crank installed, with a chain between the two. The shifter cable is not yet installed, and the bike is not yet rideable, but I wanted to test the hub. It turns smoothly enough when I turn the cranks, but when I stop, it "freewheels" or continues to push the pedals forward. I can stop the cranks, allowing the wheel to spin, but then the hub produces a loud, but even, grating sound (it also clicks, but I assume this is the normal functioning of the pawls).

When it is in "idle" like this, the driver spins freely against the right hand ball ring, right? I replaced those bearing balls, and I only lightly greased the inside of the dust cap with white lithium grease. Could it be that I secured the dust cap too tightly, and the balls are not freely spinning?

I lightly oiled all internal parts, and I added two tablespoons of SAE 30 oil as per one of SA's earlier service manuals.

Oh, and I also positioned the indicator at different points, and it did seem to minimize the grating at certain positions.

Any thoughts?

SA hubs are really finicky about adjustment. Install and adjust the cable, and it may stop doing that. Internal 3 speeds of all makes will do odd things when out of adjustment. Including but not limited to grinding/grating/powering the pedals/slipping out of gear while you're accelerating, causing you to land on the top tube, etc etc etc.,,,,,BD

Also make sure to oil the shifter as well. I had one that I could not get to act right while downshifting. I found out the shifter was hanging up. It was a big D'OH, moment.,,,,BD

And.....another biggie! The anti rotate washer(s) must be aligned so they set into the dropout slots. Not real hard to notice
though, so you may know that already.....

SA hubs are really finicky about adjustment. Install and adjust the cable, and it may stop doing that. Internal 3 speeds of all makes will do odd things when out of adjustment. Including but not limited to grinding/grating/powering the pedals/slipping out of gear while you're accelerating, causing you to land on the top tube, etc etc etc.,,,,,BD

Thanks. I suppose I'll fully assemble it, attempt ajustment of the shifter cable, and see where that lands me. Hopefully not onto the pavement over the handlebars.

I found this article (http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-14.html) online regarding the tendency for the hub to rotate the sprocket, and the writer mentions that it will occur with the indicator fully disconnected from the shifter.

I have no experience with 3-speeds (obviously), but my first rule of riding will be to never stand on the pedals or rest my full weight on them when coasting. :)

Thanks for the suggestions, Bikedued. For the record, the problem was that I had tapped the dustcap too tightly on the right hand bearing, so the bearing balls were not rolling freely. Everything works beautifully now, at least while I hold the rear up and turn the cranks (I really need a workstand!) Road test to come!

Here are some in progress pics. I kinda like it clean without fenders or chainguard....or saddle!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/driveside_midway.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/drivetrain_midway.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/SA_midway.jpg

Hey, that paint cleaned up right nice... and the rest of it as well.

:beer:

Wow, that looks amazing.

Well, the project is near completion. Only a few missing bolts (gold star if you can find them in the pics), brakes pads that desperately need adjusting, and a new saddle (any suggestions?)

I've included too many photos here, but the duplicates are provided to show how an overcast day can soften imperfections, while direct sunlight exposes everything! The pics at the beginning of this thread hid many of the rough edges because they were taken in shadow, not direct sunlight - and honestly, by pics alone, it doesn't look like much has been improved upon!

At any rate, here's the product of my labor of love, or stupidity, or whatever you wish to call it.

Thanks for all the help and advice, and thanks for reading. By the way, the Sturmey Archer hub is working flawlessly -- at least for now!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drive_overcast.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drive_sunny.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drivetrain_overcast.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drivetrain_sunny.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drive_rearquarter.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_drivetrain_rearquarter.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_sturmey.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/dissident75/Schwinn%20Breeze/final_bars.jpg

STUNNING!! Very nice man! I found a very well preserved, yet dirty 1972 Sierra brown Collegiate sport today. Going to be giving it the same treatment, and then sell it, unfortunately it's too small for me to ride comfortably.,,,,BD

This one was $18, nice deal in my book.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/Kustombyker/CollegiateBRN1.jpg

STUNNING!! Very nice man! I found a very well preserved, yet dirty 1972 Sierra brown Collegiate sport today. Going to be giving it the same treatment, and then sell it, unfortunately it's too small for me to ride comfortably.,,,,BD

This one was $18, nice deal in my book.



Nice find. Have fun with it! I really don't have much use for the Breeze, but I've grown attached to it during the reconditioning. I can't bear the thought of selling it ... unless someone comes to me with a ridiculous offer! :D But then I picture it becoming a beater for some NYC college kid, and I shudder.

I sent this in a PM as well, but thought there may be others like me who are interested in hearing your response.

You did some great work on the rebuild of your Breeze. I just bought a '69 Schwinn Speedster that I am going to start working on. FYI - I have NO bike mechanic experience so figured this would be a decent bike to start on.

Can I ask you a couple of questions?

I think that I can handle the headset, front hub, and bottom bracket myself, but question the SA hub (TCWII - or something like that).

How complex was the rebuild of your hub?

Any good information that you have found online about rebuilding them?

Words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Brian

I sent this in a PM as well, but thought there may be others like me who are interested in hearing your response.

You did some great work on the rebuild of your Breeze. I just bought a '69 Schwinn Speedster that I am going to start working on. FYI - I have NO bike mechanic experience so figured this would be a decent bike to start on.

Can I ask you a couple of questions?

I think that I can handle the headset, front hub, and bottom bracket myself, but question the SA hub (TCWII - or something like that).

How complex was the rebuild of your hub?

Any good information that you have found online about rebuilding them?

Words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Brian

I refurbished an SA 3 speed AW hub awhile back and got a whole bunch of good info. Here's the thread:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=172981&highlight=sturmey+archer

Basically I took it apart just halfway and everything worked out fine. I started on the side with the chain coming out, just unscrewing the bolts and cones, etc., and basically I was able to pull out half of the innards. This was enough to see that everything was in good shape so I just flushed it completely with wd-40, let it dry, then coated the inner workings with oil, greased the axle bearings and put it back together. (read that thread and check out that website, http://www.karrot.org/ascotto/three_speed/)

Now if I recall I greased and oiled the "ball ring" which rests inside the inner dust cap. These are the bearings that, I think, allow all the insides to rotate inside the hub (I guess, I don't know). I don't know if this was the right thing to do because you definitely do not want grease inside the mechanism at all, just oil, but I haven't had any problems. Also, as I said I greased the axle bearings. Some people say not even to do that- basically don't use grease anywhere- but I haven't had any problems.

You don't have to take it compltely, absolutely apart if it's in good shape.

How complex was the rebuild of your hub?

Any good information that you have found online about rebuilding them?

Words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

You're right, it should be an exciting learning process to work on this old Schwinn. They are great bikes, built like a rock and heavy as a rock!

As TimJ has mentioned, and from most of what I've read, there's really no need to rebuild the hub if it works properly. I simply did it because I was interested in seeing the insides of the hub and inspecting the parts.

I used the karrot.org website as a pictorial guide, and it's probably all you need. I rebuilt an AW hub, one of the most common and least complex from what I've heard.

Another great website is http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/samaintind.htm which is a good technical supplement to the karrot.org website, but does not include a step-by-step pictorial guide.

It has a technical guide to the TCW (http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/satcw.pdf) there. It looks like the TCW also has a coaster brake, which I've heard is a little more complex than those without. But that doesn't mean it's impossible to rebuild.

I'll let you know that I have very little mechanical aptitude, but I found the rebuilt relatively simple, and I was able to clean the tar that had accumulated on the parts.

Be sure to check Harris Cyclery (http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturmey-archer-parts.html) if you need parts, or try the Schwinn Forums (http://www.schwinnbike.com/heritage/). I didn't get help there, but from what I understand there are some very helpful and generous enthusiasts there. Also, you might want to post your rebuild as a thread here. As you can see from this thread, lots of interested and helpful enthusiasts on the BF Forums too! I'll also be willing to answer any questions you have as you go along, to the best of my ability and knowledge (which is very limited mind you!)

Finally, as per the greasing of the bearings, this (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=230126) is the information I received on the Mechanics Forum of BF. I ended up using white lithium sparingly, and having opened it since, can attest that it becomes diluted and spreads everywhere. Not sure yet whether it will have a long term negative effect. As of now, it is very viscous. It may become a problem later as the grease ages.

Good luck, and keep us posted!