Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - What lights do you use for the long rides?

I plan on doing several double centuries next year and I'm curious about lights? Any recommendations, it seems to me the brighter the better, but some lights I've seen may be overkill. Let me know what works for you.

At night on a dark road nothing is overkill!!! I use a Niterider Cyclone on my helmet and a Serfas SL-400 on the handlebars. As a taillight I use the Niterider taillight on steady. I also wear 2 ankle reflector bands, a small slow moving triangle on my backside and a lot of reflective tape all over my bike.

Michael Wolfe has me drooling over his Aero setup. Dual E6's with a disc brake hub.

http://escapevelocipede.blogspot.com/2006/09/stable.html

I'd say you're looking for reliability as much as brightness here, and as far as a headlight goes, I don't think you can go wrong with the E6 powered by a Schmidt hub dynamo. Yes, that set up is expensive, but I believe worth the money if you intend to do a lot of night riding. I have a smaller LED headlight on my handlebars as a backup, but it's really only been used as a camp flashlight for touring so far.

I'm currently running a Vistalite 5 LED tail-light as my main tail light, with a 3 LED Smart tail light as a back-up. I'm interested in other recommendations in that area.

I find that twin Cateye EL500 LED lights, mounted about halfway down the forks, provides sufficient light for night riding in rural areas. The EL500 will run all night long on a single set of batteries. Is see many Randonneurs using dual SL500s.

A Schmidt hub and lights would certainly be a better setup, but at a much higher cost.

However, depending on the time of year and how fast you do the double, you may not need all night light. If you are riding in summer, you may not need more than 2-3 hours of light and can get that easily with a commuting type of halogen or 3w LED light. These will provide more light, but with significantly less runtime. So, it all depends on your circumstances.

I find that twin Cateye EL500 LED lights, mounted about halfway down the forks, provides sufficient light for night riding in rural areas. The EL500 will run all night long on a single set of batteries. Is see many Randonneurs using dual SL500s.I have the Cateye EL500 and was surprised that it seemed to me less bright than my Princeton Tec EOS (on bright mode). The CE did have a slightly brighter central spot, but it was very small ... and looks like the "batman" symbol (though its a cat). I don't know how they compare for longevity.

Two Cateye EL500s on the handlebars. Plenty of light, and the two EL500s and two 3-LED tailights (on the seatstays) cost me $70 total during a Performance sale a few months ago.

If I end up doing this a lot, I'll go w/ a dynohub, but that's to much $$ for me right now.

A Schmidt hub and lights would certainly be a better setup, but at a much higher cost.


I hear/read this a lot. If you say "higher initial outlay", then maybe yes. But if you use lithium batteries and go through one set a night (or even several nights on a randonnee), then it doesn't take very long for the Schmidt cost to amortise out to be very attractive, and the hub for me has been totallly reliable, plus I haven't had to worry about rechargeables or running out of spare batteries. I have been running a Schmidt for over three years and around 50,000km with A LOT of night riding. The ~$US200 initial cost has been well and truly covered.

I hear/read this a lot. If you say "higher initial outlay", then maybe yes. But if you use lithium batteries and go through one set a night (or even several nights on a randonnee), then it doesn't take very long for the Schmidt cost to amortise out to be very attractive, and the hub for me has been totallly reliable, plus I haven't had to worry about rechargeables or running out of spare batteries. I have been running a Schmidt for over three years and around 50,000km with A LOT of night riding. The ~$US200 initial cost has been well and truly covered.

A Schmidt hub alone is $200 from Peter White cycles. Add to that one or two E6 lights at $95 each for an entry price of $300-$400. Then, you still have to build the wheel, so add the cost of rim and spokes. If you have Peter White build the wheel, then you are into approximately $300 for the wheel and another $200 for the lights, exclusive of miscellaneous small parts to put it all together.

You can save a few dollars by using other lights with the Schmidt hub, but you'r still out about $400+ for the system. If you know a way to get into a Schmidt for only $200, I'd like to know your source of parts.

I've looked at a Schmidt-based setup pretty hard over the past year, but have found that two EL500 lights with NiMH batteries and charger come to less than $150 with no recurring expenses. Although the light output is inferor to the E6, the NiMH batteries will easily run all night without recharging and is an acceptable method of Randonneuring on a budget.

A Schmidt hub alone is $200 from Peter White cycles. Add to that one or two E6 lights at $95 each for an entry price of $300-$400. Then, you still have to build the wheel, so add the cost of rim and spokes. If you have Peter White build the wheel, then you are into approximately $300 for the wheel and another $200 for the lights, exclusive of miscellaneous small parts to put it all together.

You can save a few dollars by using other lights with the Schmidt hub, but you'r still out about $400+ for the system. If you know a way to get into a Schmidt for only $200, I'd like to know your source of parts.

I've looked at a Schmidt-based setup pretty hard over the past year, but have found that two EL500 lights with NiMH batteries and charger come to less than $150 with no recurring expenses. Although the light output is inferor to the E6, the NiMH batteries will easily run all night without recharging and is an acceptable method of Randonneuring on a budget.

Doing your own rebuild on the original wheel cuts the price. For hub, Lumotech Ovalplus and spokes, the all-up bill from that guy you mentioned was around $300 (~$205 for the hub, 30c each for the 36 spokes and $76 for the light). I did the rebuild. I can almost guarantee the hub will last twice as long as the set-up you describe, and the optics in the Ovalplus are still way ahead of LEDs, so you will likely be upgrading as new LED lamps come on the market. Over five years, I still bet I will spend less than anyone with batteries lights.

A Schmidt hub alone is $200 from Peter White cycles. Add to that one or two E6 lights at $95 each for an entry price of $300-$400. Then, you still have to build the wheel, so add the cost of rim and spokes. If you have Peter White build the wheel, then you are into approximately $300 for the wheel and another $200 for the lights, exclusive of miscellaneous small parts to put it all together.

True, but you should consider that if you need a new wheel anyway, the additional cost is not as much if you go with a generator hub. In my case, I am pretty sure that I will need to replace the rim on my front wheel next spring, after I trash it even more during my second winter of bike commuting. The generic no-name-brand front hub that came with my bike may not be worth reusing. I am probably going to go with a $95 Shimano DH-3N70 hub instead of the $200 SON hub, which means that the new front wheel will cost me maybe $30-40 more than it would with a non generator hub.

Several threads in LD with this going already.

I had a seperate set of wheels built.

Mavic Open Pros. Schmidt up front, powering 2 E6's.
Campy Hub rear (just had it rebuilt for my new ride).
I use a Danolite on top (head) for navigating, cue sheets, etc. This goes on and off depending on what I'm doing.
I'm experimenting with a chest mounted LED (on my relfective vest) for cue reading.

Read more about my setup here (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=175613&highlight=long+distance+lighting) and here (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=212731&highlight=long+distance+lighting).


As to expense... well - everyone needs to balance that on their own.

I got tired of waiting for battery system to charge, and of it failing in odd weather, or not working at all.
Had I bought the Schmidt 3 years ago when I started commuting in the dark (over an hour each way!) - the batteries and various lights I've bought would have paid for it all already. Now I have a pile of "almost worked" stuff.

I ride alot in the dark - either in the morning, or at night. Somedays I'll return from a ride after midnight. My investment was worth it.
If you are commuting on it, you'll get even more use and piece of mind out of it...

If you are commuting on it, you'll get even more use and piece of mind out of it...

That peace of mind is really worth a lot more than dollars, too.

But... thinking also about the OP, the light set-up that supcom suggests/uses may well be an acceptable sysem for double centuries if the OP is concerned about the minimal drag caused by a SON hub when the light is off during the day (worth one foot of altitude gain per mile) and weight (and that is moot). The alternative is to have a front wheel with an ordinary hub for the day section, and a SON wheel for the night. But a twin EL500 works -- depending on ride speed and road conditions AND if it is raining!

That peace of mind is really worth a lot more than dollars, too.


+ infinity. I hate worrying about this stuff. Aside from bulbs I just get on the bike and go.


The EL500's will work well. Its a reasonable $$ to get started. If you like riding at night, you can upgrade.


As for drag, I'd like to run some simulations on AnalyticCycling and look at watts that I can put out (estimated, I'm not running a power meter), and how many the wheel is pulling from me. I just can't see how the wheel (which I run with or without the lights) is going to slow me down that much. Losing more weight and increasing my strength / weight ratio will do more for me than worrying about drag... and I live in VT - which means I climb no matter which direction I go - and 1 foot per mile (off) and 5 feet per mile (on) seems miniscule to me.

The switch on my ride partner's Lumotech Ovalplus accidentally switched on before Monday afternoon's ride. When it was switched off, the comment came: "I didn't notice any difference at all".

I'm experimenting with a chest mounted LED (on my relfective vest) for cue reading.


I tried something like it last spring, but I found that even a tiny chest mounted LED light would kill my night vision because I could not keep it where it would not be visible with my eyes. If you find a chest light setup that works without affecting your night vision, I would be very interested in hearing about it.

The switch on my ride partner's Lumotech Ovalplus accidentally switched on before Monday afternoon's ride. When it was switched off, the comment came: "I didn't notice any difference at all".

I can't tell if the lights are on or off during the daytime unless I look. The drag is not detectable by feel, but - there is no free lunch. The power comes from somewhere - either in batteries that you carry, or in drag to a dyno.

I'll take the reliability of the dyno.

I use twin Cateye HL-500II C halogens mounted on my forks. I haven't tried their LED lights yet, but from what I hear the halogens are a lot brighter. Anyone use both and can comment?

I have been using Duracell Ultras, but I want to start using NiMH 2500mAh rechargeables - anyone know how they compare?

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2699/635/1600/fork%20lights%201.0.jpg

http://vikapproved.blogspot.com/2006/08/fork-lights.html

I also use a Princeton TEC EOS headlamp attached to my helmet.

I use twin Cateye HL-500II C halogens mounted on my forks. I haven't tried their LED lights yet, but from what I hear the halogens are a lot brighter. Anyone use both and can comment?

I have been using Duracell Ultras, but I want to start using NiMH 2500mAh rechargeables - anyone know how they compare?

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2699/635/1600/fork%20lights%201.0.jpg

http://vikapproved.blogspot.com/2006/08/fork-lights.html

I also use a Princeton TEC EOS headlamp attached to my helmet.

I compared alkaline vs NiMH with the EL500 LED light and could detect no difference in light output between the two types of batteries. I did not do a runtime comparison, but I have used 2500 mAh NiMH batteries all night long (spring/summer) in the EL500 with no problem. I would not expect to get a second night's use out of a set of batteries without charging them.

That peace of mind is really worth a lot more than dollars, too.

But... thinking also about the OP, the light set-up that supcom suggests/uses may well be an acceptable sysem for double centuries if the OP is concerned about the minimal drag caused by a SON hub when the light is off during the day (worth one foot of altitude gain per mile) and weight (and that is moot). The alternative is to have a front wheel with an ordinary hub for the day section, and a SON wheel for the night. But a twin EL500 works -- depending on ride speed and road conditions AND if it is raining!

In all fairness, the drag from a Schmidt hub should not be a factor in your decision as to which system to buy.

Doing your own rebuild on the original wheel cuts the price. For hub, Lumotech Ovalplus and spokes, the all-up bill from that guy you mentioned was around $300 (~$205 for the hub, 30c each for the 36 spokes and $76 for the light). I did the rebuild. I can almost guarantee the hub will last twice as long as the set-up you describe, and the optics in the Ovalplus are still way ahead of LEDs, so you will likely be upgrading as new LED lamps come on the market. Over five years, I still bet I will spend less than anyone with batteries lights.

Is Peter White correct in that the Oval Plus lamp can be damaged if you ride it a short distance turned on with a burned out bulb? That seems a bit farfetched for an expensive lamp? I like the look of the Oval Plus, but if I have to remember to turn it off after a long night of riding for fear that a burned out bulb will ruin it, I'd rather spend the extra money for an E6.

Planet Bike Alias: (I bought two and bring the second battery in my bag while on my own doubles) $90 each.
http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B000C6Y8YQ.01-A369ZTW9RUY8F0._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V41713850_.jpg

ViewPoint FlashPoint: (I got compliments on this light during the Apple Pie Ride (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=160173) and at a LAB LCI class, so you know it is bright) $15
http://www.performancebike.com/product_images/150/40_2175.jpg

Make sure that you pick up the ankle straps because Planet Ultra requires them.

Is Peter White correct in that the Oval Plus lamp can be damaged if you ride it a short distance turned on with a burned out bulb? That seems a bit farfetched for an expensive lamp? I like the look of the Oval Plus, but if I have to remember to turn it off after a long night of riding for fear that a burned out bulb will ruin it, I'd rather spend the extra money for an E6.

The person you mention does say that about the Ovalplus. But there is a model that has a light sensor switch, and it was great when I had one. Even less to worry about. The lamp itself isn't really *that* expensive.

I have gone the E6 route (double). I had double Ovalpluses for PBP2003, and despite the two zenor diodes, they worked very well. The E6s are more intense with their longer spread of light, but I do miss occasionally the wider spread offered by the Ovapluses. E6s also cannot be run directly off batteries, whereas the Ovalplus can be. The E6 has a reed switch operated by a magnet in the outer switch ring, and it can be damaged by the sudden increase in current through it.

I had a friend who had an Ovalplus connected to a first-generation Litespin sidewall dynamo. The Litespins then had problems with the hinging and his remained on for ALL his riding. The Ovalplus was a non-switched version, so it remained on for ALL his riding. The bulbs last a long time and the chances of blowing one in daylight are remote. Generally, you replace them because the light very slowly dims and becomes yellow.

I do concede that yes, you do need to carry spare bulbs whereas with LEDs you don't. And unfortunately, the bulbs are not off-the-shelf types, and the person you mention is the only one who imports them in North America.

I have gone the E6 route (double). I had double Ovalpluses for PBP2003, and despite the two zenor diodes, they worked very well. The E6s are more intense with their longer spread of light, but I do miss occasionally the wider spread offered by the Ovapluses.

Some people choose a light with a wider beam for their primary, and a narrow, more intense E6 for the secondary. On a 600k this past weekend I saw a bike setup with a DLumotec 1W LED primary and an E6 secondary, and I was very impressed by the beam pattern of the two lights.

Too bad that nobody makes a 3W Luxeon LED lamp for hub generators. That would be a sight to see.

Too bad that nobody makes a 3W Luxeon LED lamp for hub generators. That would be a sight to see.

I don't know if you can power a 3W LED from a hub generator (to full power). Since LEDs are either on or off, you'd need some circuitry with a capacitor and a microprocessor to be able to power-cycle the LED in short bursts so it stays 'on' even when the voltage from the generator drops. Conventional bulbs don't have the on/off problem, they just dim when the power drops. It's not an impossible problem to power an LED lamp off a hub, it's just a little cumbersome.

BTW, they make 5 Watt white LEDs now. http://www.theledlight.com/LuxeonLEDs.html Prepare to be blinded!

For those who like the EL-500 the EL-530 is now out and is 50% brighter for about the same cost. Run time is a bit less but should still go all night without a battery change.

Without laboring it too much... the effectiveness of a light really is determined by the optics that the light shines on and through (reflector and lens). This is where the German lights (B&M, Lumotech) come into their own, because despite the 3W halogen globe (or 2.5W if using a rear light as well), they have the optical technology to make the most of that output...

There was an interesting discussion I read recently on use of LEDs fitted to a convention light that originally used a halogen globe, giving the best of both worlds of battery life and optics. The LED needed a slight modification to fit, I believe.

I don't know if you can power a 3W LED from a hub generator (to full power). Since LEDs are either on or off, you'd need some circuitry with a capacitor and a microprocessor to be able to power-cycle the LED in short bursts so it stays 'on' even when the voltage from the generator drops. Conventional bulbs don't have the on/off problem, they just dim when the power drops. It's not an impossible problem to power an LED lamp off a hub, it's just a little cumbersome.

BTW, they make 5 Watt white LEDs now. http://www.theledlight.com/LuxeonLEDs.html Prepare to be blinded!

I think this is correct. I emailed Danolite about modifying 2 of their lights for use with my dyno, and while he agreed it would be a wonderful solution, he'd need to devise something as you describe between the light and the dyno.

The North American importer of SON and B&M, etc, has a new product on his website about an LED that can be connected up to any type of power source, from batteries at 6-18 volt and dynohubs, and a microprocessor, I think, makes the instant decision on how to handle it.

Seversal mentions about the Cateye EL500 and this is a good light. However, for on road I also like to have an EL300 to compliment it. The 500 is a spot lamp and the 300 a flood. Plus the fact- it is safer to have two lights on a bike, just in case one fails. I am actually an offroader and I did use these two lamps- coupled with a helmet lamp for some of my gentler offroad rides. For this year I have gone and bought a powerfull twin 5w Luxion Lamp with an L Ion battery. What a difference!!! It has 3 setting on power and for trail or road riding I use the Low power setting. This will give me 8 hrs of light and is completely satisfactory for my evening 3 hours ride in the winter. Then If I want more power there are the high settings and the Turbo. Turbo will still give me over 2 hours battery life and is definitely strong enough for offroad.

It depends on what you want a lamp to do. If you want to be seen then most respectable Lamps will do it. If you want to see- then go for the most powerfull that you can afford as HID or Luxions with the L Ion batteries do not come cheap.

http://www.use1.com/exposure/products/exp_enduro/index.php

I don't know if you can power a 3W LED from a hub generator (to full power).
Solidlights do a twin 3W LED dynamo headlight (with automatic switching designed to run off a Schmidt hub) that is quite popular with British Audaxers.

Solidlights do a twin 3W LED dynamo headlight (with automatic switching designed to run off a Schmidt hub) that is quite popular with British Audaxers.

Those are cool. Anyone try one?

Solidlights do a twin 3W LED dynamo headlight (with automatic switching designed to run off a Schmidt hub) that is quite popular with British Audaxers.

http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php

Looks interesting. And pricy. It may be interesting to compare it to a twin E6 setup.

http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php

Looks interesting. And pricy. It may be interesting to compare it to a twin E6 setup.

Doesn't talk about how quickly they come up to brightness. With my dual E6's I can run 1 when climbing and get weak, but acceptable light at 4 mph, which comes in handy on long grades here in the NE. (But I'll admit that lately I'll also flip on the headlamp too...)


Pricey for sure... the base dyno version is UK£ 140.00 = 265.18800 US$ (according to Google!)

I've ridden with people using Solidlights and am contemplating them for the next PBP. They make dual B&Ms look dim and hit full power at lower speeds. Check for comments on "Another Cycling Forum".

I hear/read this a lot. If you say "higher initial outlay", then maybe yes. But if you use lithium batteries and go through one set a night (or even several nights on a randonnee), then it doesn't take very long for the Schmidt cost to amortise out to be very attractive, and the hub for me has been totallly reliable, plus I haven't had to worry about rechargeables or running out of spare batteries. I have been running a Schmidt for over three years and around 50,000km with A LOT of night riding. The ~$US200 initial cost has been well and truly covered.

I have to agree as I use the EL 500-2 or 3 of 'em on a handlebar mount w/ Lithium Batteries and after one brevet season and a 1200 K the cost was greater than the initial cost of a Schmidt Dyno Hubbed Wheel but they are the path I've chosen for now and they do work.

I've ridden with people using Solidlights and am contemplating them for the next PBP. They make dual B&Ms look dim and hit full power at lower speeds. Check for comments on "Another Cycling Forum".

hmmm... have looked around with no luck.

a certain magazine's forum maybe?

hmmm... have looked around with no luck.

a certain magazine's forum maybe?

Hehehehe... I'm sorry about introducing the veiled references to the bike business in New Hampshire, but I had a less than acceptable outcome, not to do with product, but with the individual concerned when I arrived at the location after travelling half way around the world to see him. And yes, it was an arranged visit, so he knew I was coming. So I was dissatisfied with the service, and decline to use the business' name. I should add that his wife, Linda, was excellent in what she did, but she is not the persona of the business, nor had his knowledge for a very simple solution that he did not want to provide.

hmmm... have looked around with no luck.

a certain magazine's forum maybe?

I think he was referring to another cycling forum where the majority of members would be from the UK, and have more familiarity with the Solidlights lights. Perhaps this one (http://www.google.com/search?q=site:www.cyclingforums.com+solidlights) or this one (http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/).

Hehehehe... I'm sorry about introducing the veiled references to the bike business in New Hampshire, but I had a less than acceptable outcome, not to do with product, but with the individual concerned when I arrived at the location after travelling half way around the world to see him. And yes, it was an arranged visit, so he knew I was coming. So I was dissatisfied with the service, and decline to use the business' name. I should add that his wife, Linda, was excellent in what she did, but she is not the persona of the business, nor had his knowledge for a very simple solution that he did not want to provide.


I know which business you speak of. Very near to my old home in S. Vermont.
I was referring to the forum... of which the post below will help me find. Thanks.

I think he was referring to another cycling forum where the majority of members would be from the UK, and have more familiarity with the Solidlights lights. Perhaps this one (http://www.google.com/search?q=site:www.cyclingforums.com+solidlights) or this one (http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/).

I actually meant "Another Cycling Forum" If you Google it, the first hit is http://www.bikereader.com/forum/index.php I thought the quotes would give it away.

A good Solidlights (http://bikereader.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=bde3e116cb41ede78d5965eb9ddaa294&topic=19536.0) thread

http://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php

Looks interesting. And pricy. It may be interesting to compare it to a twin E6 setup.

Anyone have any links or info about mounting a Solidlight 1203D midway up a fork leg the way dual E6's are often mounted? It looks fairly wide so I am not sure how that would work.

I would be mounting it on a recumbent with disc brakes so the fork crown, brake mount and handlebar options are not useful.

Also is there a North American source for Solidlights or do you have to order them from the UK?

At night on a dark road nothing is overkill!!! I use a Niterider Cyclone on my helmet and a Serfas SL-400 on the handlebars. As a taillight I use the Niterider taillight on steady. I also wear 2 ankle reflector bands, a small slow moving triangle on my backside and a lot of reflective tape all over my bike.

Agree about the "Nothing is overkill." I ride off road and last year was struggling with twin 10w lamps- one spot and one flood. Worked OK but speed was limited to how far you could see well. This Year I have started road riding at night and those lamps were still not good enough. Had to use my helmet lamp that has a directional spot to try to see as much as I want. Then decided to get some new lamps. Or rather a lamp. Main priority was to get power- but that is not needed all the time so switchable power or dim facility required to save battery life. Also needed more than 5 hours battery life. Looked at the HID lamps but were too expensive, and most were still lacking battery life. In the end looked at Luxion LED's.The Blackburn X6 was nearly my choice but it still lacked a bit of "oomph" Then tried the USE Exposure and this is what I got. Went for the Enduro model for offroad and battery life. On the dimmest setting I can get over 8 hours battery life. Around Town when There is street lighting, this is the setting I use.To be honest- it is the setting that is suitable for most road requirements, but it is nice to switch up to Turbo and see the world in all its glory. Other advantages? Completey self contained so no cable to a separate battery. If required, batteries are easy to change so a spare can be carried easily. Instant light- which is not the case with an HID lamp and you can switch it on and off at will- no waiting to cool down before switching back on after use. Then again it is fairly lightweight. Disadvantage is the cost, as this is not cheap but for a lamp that betters a lot of the cheaper HID's, and has better battery life, it is not that expensive.

http://www.exposurelights.com/

I don't know if you can power a 3W LED from a hub generator (to full power). Since LEDs are either on or off, you'd need some circuitry with a capacitor and a microprocessor to be able to power-cycle the LED in short bursts so it stays 'on' even when the voltage from the generator drops. Conventional bulbs don't have the on/off problem, they just dim when the power drops. It's not an impossible problem to power an LED lamp off a hub, it's just a little cumbersome.

BTW, they make 5 Watt white LEDs now. http://www.theledlight.com/LuxeonLEDs.html Prepare to be blinded!


I recently bought a shimano 3n71 hub and built a wheel around it. Connected to this hub is a state of the art home made quad Luxeon III setup (with 4, 6 degree collimaters and driven by a buckpuck with a bridgerectifier in front of it. at less than 5 mph I get a slight strobe effect, anything above and I get solid light. This gives me plenty of light at moderate speed and grows brighter as I speed up. I think I like this even more than my HID actually, it isn't quite as bright but is a lot less fuss as I can just leave everything attached to the bike. I had it up between 30 and 40 mph for a pretty gnarly descent the other day and it pulled through with flying colors. If anyone is interested in details just let me know. I really like this setup as I don't need to worry about switching lights on and off depending on if I am going downhill or not. I have around 70 miles on the light so far without a single issue.

Shimano 3n71 hub - $90 (Harris Cycles AKA Sheldon Brown's place of employment)
Velocity Aerohead rim - $48 (superspokes.com)
Spokes - $30 (ebay)
Leds- $12 (luxeon.com)
Buckpuck - $20 (Do a search on the internet, I used an extra one from an older light)
Bridge Rectifier - $3 (Radio Shack)
Aluminum L stock - $10 (HomeDepot- aluminum is used to mount the lights so that we get both a light mount and a heatsink with one part)
Waterproof switch- $10 (batteryspace.com)
(JB Weld is used to hold it all together)


Total - $223 for a wicked bright dynohub light that is very close to the efficiency of the Schmidt hub. Myself, I will save the $300 extra dollars and lose a minute or two every 100 miles.

Incidentally, to keep me visible at stops I just put a PrincetonTec Eos on the bike at lowest setting. This gives me an incredibly long runtime and a good be seen light.