Triathlon - ZIPP 2001 - need help with the set up

I sold my "classic geometry" frame and bought a 650cZipp 2001 Frame with the idea of using it on flat Triathlon races.
Now I am wondering whether this was a good idea since I do not even know how to build it. For instance I am lost about the way the beam has to be fixed (I got all the different pieces without any assembly instruction).
I have some questions and I hope someone will be able to help me :
- I have attached two pictures of the frame. As you can see there I have marked two wholes I think should be somehow attached together with a screw : is this the case ? If yes, is this a special type of screw ?
- how can the beam’s height be changed ?
- how can I make the beams suspension to be more or less hard (or to make it fix so it does not move at all) ?
- the elastomers are new, but I wonder if you knew how often these have to be changed.
I would be very grateful should you be able to give me some help (ideally full specs) about the way this should be fixed.
Do not hesitate sharing with me any user experience with this frame : the bes set-up for triathlon, the crankset development you are using if you also ride a Zipp 2001 650c (i.e 53x39, 55x42, other ?), how to take car of it, any issue I should be aware of, ...
Thanks in advance.

Berns (thats his member name) has a zipp bike similar to that. I'm sure he'd be able to help you out. Good luck.

Thanks. I will see whether I manage to contact him.

Just got your PM... sorry for the delays.

For the first picture. There are actually 2 allen screws (one is built into the suspension itself) that you should have. The one on the inside (connected to the suspension pieces) will controll the height. The other allen screw screws over the top of that one just tightens the beam to the frame. This is nice because you can adjust the beam height while sitting on the bike! I don't know why there is a second hole on the frame. I have a feeling it has to do with moisture relief.

As for the second picture, DO NOT TURN THAT SUSPENSION PIECE! All of the adjustments are made while the beam is on the bike. The reason why the allow you to remove that is so you can change out the "bumpers" with different "bounce" ratings. So you can make the suspension hard or soft. These are not available from ZIPP anymore. So if you have an extra set, don't let them go. I don't know where my other set is and I regret losing them. (Note: The reason why I say adjust your height with the beam on is so that the bumpers line up with the peices inside the beam. Raising the suspension piece itself is how it adjusts the hight. It's safest to leave the beam on when adjusting the height.)

I hope that helps out. If you need more help or need for me to take some pictures, I'll do what I can. Again, sorry for getting back to you so late.

Thank you for your answer.
I have enclosed another picture (the suspension cartridge) : if I understand well, I should not turn this piece, but where should it be at the beginning (when I will install the beam) : in this position or should it be higher ?
This is my understanding of the set up : could you please confirm this is correct ?
- Once I will put the beam, the elastomers will rest on this piece, and the beam's hole will be aligned with the hole on top of the piece.
- Then if I want to adjust the height I will use a key that I will insert from the hole on top of the beam in order to turn the allen screw placed inside this suspension cartridge.
- Then I will fix the beam to this piece (suspension cartridge) with the suspension preload bolt (it tightens the beam to the suspension cartridge).
Is my understanding correct ?
I do not have the suspension preload bolt (the allen screw that tightens the beam to the frame) : is it a normal screw ? what is it's size ? Does this screw goes / tightens directly onto the carbon beam with no ring or any other piece that would protect the carbon beam ?
Thanks again for your help.
Todor
PS : if you happen to have closed up pictures of the different pieces that you describe in your message and their set up / use on the bike, could you please send them to me ?

For the most part, you have everything right. I would leave suspension piece on the lowest position without tightening it to the frame. Then put the beam on and adjust from there. As for the bolt that tightens down the beam to the frame, I would recommend a washer to tighten down the beam, but it's not necessary. I also don't know the size of the bolt... I can find out though.

On a side note, I have a VHS video tape of the original ZIPP 2001 bike. I have to get permission from ZIPP to distribute it. I can convert it to DVD which will be easier. I can also send it as a file (after I convert it to DVD). I'm just waiting to hear back from them. The reason why I bring this up, is that there's a couple of mintues on how they adjust the beam and they talk about the suspension.

I'll see if I can generate some pictures. My digital camera broke, so I'm getting another one but it won't be for another couple of months. In the mean time I can use my cell phone camera, but the quality isn't great.

(Edit): As for the bolt (after re-reading that you don't have one), I'll try and get an answer for you tonight. I'm going to post it here only because someone else may run into the same problem. I do know one thing is that it's the same #-mm as the hight adjustment allen. So basically you use the same allen # for removing the bolt AND adjusting the eight (which in turn is also the same # for the pivot point bolts).
Please let me know if you have more questions and I'll do what I can.

Take care,

Bernie

Thank you for all your help, all your explanaitions have made me understand the way all this works.
If you manage to get the video you are talking about that would be a plus, but it is not necessary : the info you have given to me so far is more than enough. You have been of great help !
Thanks again.
Todor
PS : I will wait for your post regarding the bolt.

Sorry for not getting back to this last night. Got side-tracked. I'll try to remember tonight.

Here are the pictures. I hope that these will help you out. If you have more questions please ask! I'll do what I can. :D

I'm sorry that the pictures turned out really bad. Stupid camera phone...

one more with the bolt that you need. This is NOT the correct viewing. This bolt goes on after the beam. I just wanted to show you how the bolt goes in if the beam was attached.

Thank you very much, your pictures are very useful.
I am definitly missing that bolt, but since it does not look very different from a normal bolt I think I will buy a same size one in the market and this should make the deal.
Thanks again for all your help.
PS : any other tip about the way I should entertein this frame ?

The post that holds the deraileur... take care of that. That's as rare as the frame itself. Keep me posted on how the bike turns out. I'm interested to see it's progression. :D

So far it is going OK.
I bought a bolt that has the same size as the Zipp one. So I have managed to fit the beam correctly.
I had trouble trying to find how to fit my fork, but I have managed to assembly that as well.
I am waiting for the wheels and the derailleur to arrive by post in order to start building all together.
Let's wait and see how all turns out.
Thanks again.

Question for you... I have not messed with my steering (fork and headset) since I've owned it back in 1993! I'm assuming that it's a 1" fork. Is it threaded? Can I use an Aheadset? I just haven't made the time to take it appart (I'm afraid that if I do so, I won't be able to put it back together ;) ).

Thanks!

@Berns

Looking at your bike photos linked to your signature. The Zipp is a threaded headset, and judging by when this bike was made I would suggest 1" fork.

As you haven't touched the steerer since 1993 I would stick with the current set up.

If you wanted to change the front end, your options are.

1. Using the current fork. Buy an ahead adapter ( http://www.probikekit.com/imgLarge/A9126.jpg ), then you can use a new ahead stem. I have used one of these for a while on one of my bikes, and other than adding a little extra weight has worked fine.

2. New ahead style 1" fork. You will also need a new 1" ahead headset, stem, spacers and star plug.

Dalai... thanks for the feedback.

I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade the whole system. I'm not sure if you've ever seen what I have on there, but almost all of the components are outdated. I love the frame so much though, that I'm considering rebuilding it. I don't mind spending money... as long as it's justifyable. Not quite sure what route I'm going to go though. Reason why I was considering it, is becuase I'm thinking about getting some carbon aero forks for it. So if I do that, then I'll need to change out the rest of the steering. I wasn't sure of the headset type though for looking at upgrades.

Thank you! :D

Dalai... thanks for the feedback.

I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade the whole system. I'm not sure if you've ever seen what I have on there, but almost all of the components are outdated.

I have definitely seen and enjoyed your 'retro speed'! It would be a little sad to see it updated...

If you do decide to upgrade the fork. Cervelo for one were building the Alloy P3 with aero 1 inch forks, as still are fork manufacturers. So 1 inch forks are still easy to locate.

For a head set that you won't need to touch for another 13 years would be a Chris King NoThreadSet™. Expensive but lasts forever!

Then there is the fun of choosing new stem, bars etc...

Yeah... I've also enjoyed the "retro speed" and I guess that's why I'm still hesitant.

Thank you again for you input and I will continue to research and see what I'm confortable with. We shall see.

On a side note. I'm not sure how long many of you have been around. When I decided on this bike back in '93... I went with the ol' Greg Welch theme. So if you go back and look at the '92 Kona Ironman, you'll see that's the same color scheme that he went with. I was pretty influencial back then I guess. I don't regret it though ;)

Hi there, and sorry for not coming to you earlier.
The shop that sent me the zipp frame sent me a Profile Desing BDC fork. It is 1", which has complicated the setting up since I could not find a shop that could help me out (1" size is not very commun here in France). I have finally managed to find a Stronglight headset and I have somehow adapted it (I have used all the pieces but one). I am waiting now for a shim in order to be able to use my 1 1/8 Profile Desing Carbon X aerobar on the 1" fork. I have not tried the bike yet since I am waiting for the wheels to get home.
I will send you a picture as soon as I get the whole thing together.

I almost finished the set and I wanted to share it with you to thank you for all the help you have given to me with it.
http://www.hiboox.com/image.php?img=838d3af7.jpg

I'm stoked that you're bike is coming together well. I can't see the pics, but I responded to your PM. Talk to you soon!

Berns

I'm stoked that you're bike is coming together well. I can't see the pics, but I responded to your PM. Talk to you soon!

Berns
Hi again,
I will email you some more pictures if you want : in that case please send me your email adress to Zarautz70@caramail.com
For your info I will be changing the fork next week since the one that the shop sent me was cut too short for me (too bad since it is a nice aero Profile Design).
I hope I do not have any problem with the headset with the new fork since although I got to take off the upper cup, there seems no way I can take the lower cup off (and I do not want to try any harder because I am affraid of breaking the frame) : it is strongly glued with the epoxy glue.
If the new fork does not fit well, I will have to face a lower cup change : in that case I will take the frame to a bike shop and see whether they are able to unglue the cup.
If anyone over here has any experience or tip about changing Zipp headsets please let us know.