Commuting - commuting in winter

My car needs repairs done and I am contemplating ditching the car, as I was planning to do so anyway in January, and ride my bike instead. My biggest concern is that I live in milwaukee, and it gets freezing!! I have a few questions and I am looking for any tips that might help me making this work. The only concern is my commute to work. I would guess in snow and cold it will be about a 20min trip. My fastest time was 16 mins but I average 18. This is on my straight bar road bike. Is it even possible to ride a bike with road tires on snow?? I have a mountain bike that I could use if I have to.

Second, what do you recommend wearing in the cold? A winter jacket? Layers with a light wind-braker? Also, any tips on not getting your pants caught in the spokes?

I'm also just seeking encouragement, is anyone else commuting in the cold? How is it? I'll be doing so also in the dark in the morning, as I usually leave for work at 6:30. My main trouble here is mental as this will be an immense pain in the...

Check out the Winter Cycling Forum (http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=53) and layer, layer, layer!!

My car needs repairs done and I am contemplating ditching the car, as I was planning to do so anyway in January, and ride my bike instead. My biggest concern is that I live in milwaukee, and it gets freezing!! I have a few questions and I am looking for any tips that might help me making this work. The only concern is my commute to work. I would guess in snow and cold it will be about a 20min trip. My fastest time was 16 mins but I average 18. This is on my straight bar road bike. Is it even possible to ride a bike with road tires on snow?? I have a mountain bike that I could use if I have to.

Second, what do you recommend wearing in the cold? A winter jacket? Layers with a light wind-braker? Also, any tips on not getting your pants caught in the spokes?

I'm also just seeking encouragement, is anyone else commuting in the cold? How is it? I'll be doing so also in the dark in the morning, as I usually leave for work at 6:30. My main trouble here is mental as this will be an immense pain in the...

I've been commuting by bicycle year round for the last five years, I still have a car but I think I've driven to work a dozen times this year.

My winter commuting bicycle is a mountain bike with no suspension, studded tires (Nokian Hakkapeliitas), a hub generator powered front light, and multiple LED taillights. I've also got reflector tape all over the bike, and a Petzl LED headlamp.

For clothing I avoid cotton, I wear layers, and I'm really carefull about keeping my head and neck covered. I've got a lycra balaclava that goes under my helmet, a rain cover for the helmet, a wind proof jacket, and neoprene booties for my shoes. Most of my clothing is cycling specific, I change into normal clothes when I get to work.

Hopefully this will give you some ideas to start with.

I commute year round in Michigan, about the same weather as you'll get though perhaps less wet.
Windbreaker and layers. I use a J&G waterproof/breathable jacket over poly layers, including one layer of fleece. A balaclava, and some waterproof gloves. My wife got me some very nice waterproof sport gloves for $10 at Kohls, and they're actually better than the much more expensive gloves I had been using.

Buy a set of Nokian studded tires and you'll ride effortlessly over stuff that you can't stand up on. I ride a hybrid year round and mount 700c Hakkapeliitas on it in the winter.

Buy a set of Nokian studded tires and you'll ride effortlessly over stuff that you can't stand up on. I ride a hybrid year round and mount 700c Hakkapeliitas on it in the winter.

+1 Nokians for ice and snow.

.. My biggest concern is that I live in milwaukee, and it gets freezing!! ... Is it even possible to ride a bike with road tires on snow?? I have a mountain bike that I could use if I have to.

Second, what do you recommend wearing in the cold? ....Also, any tips on not getting your pants caught in the spokes?

I commute in Kenosha so we've got pretty similar weather. While I commute year round, I do NOT ride everyday, especially in the Winter. I've ridden in single digits with below-zero windchills and decided that I just didn't like it. Now I restrict myself to days in the upper teens or higher with clear roads. With these two restrictions, I've been able to ride at least one day per week for the last two winters. Maybe my comments will be helpful.

Bike - Regular road tires on even very light snow will be VERY difficult to control. MTB tires aren't too bad, but you'll still have to be extra careful. Studded tires were great on ice and light snow, but I didn't like them in "thick slush". They didn't sink down enough to grip pavement and they couldn't "grab" traction in the slush.

Slush was also the only thing that sometimes gummed up my drivetrain. They usually get the roads cleared pretty quickly here so I don't have to deal with slush much anymore - just the salt dust left behind so wash your bike regularly.

Lights - You said you leave at 6:30 am. There's no such thing as too many lights. In addition to not liking extreme cold, I backed off on winter commuting partly because of safety. I had reflective tape and reflectors all over an old MTB with a rear blinky and front headlight and I still didn't feel safe. I wasn't willing to spend the money needed to get a really good front light but if you're going to ride everyday, invest in something BRIGHT.

Clothes - I wear layers of wool on top. When it's windy, I top it off with a Bellweather windbreaker. When it's calm I top if off with a bulky wool sweater I bought at Kohl's. On the bottom, either cycling tights or regular cycling shorts with sweatpants over them (I use a old toe strap around my ankle to keep the leg out of the chain). With thick socks, either of these is good down to around 20 degrees. I don't like lobster gloves so my hands sometimes get cold in the regular knit gloves I found in a bin at Menards. Last is the face/neck. On colder days I wear a face mask designed for ice fishing. When it's above 30 I don't cover my face.

Like I said, I'm not a die-hard winter rider but a couple rides a week in the winter sure helps chase away the seasonal blahs.

Tom

I wear an underarmour shirt - very thing and keeps you very warm. Have a long sleeve shirt I'll wear over that, and than a thin Helly Hansen jacket on top. Those three layers keep me warm enough, and you can modify on ride home if it warms up.

I usually wear shorts down to about 25 degrees, and have some tights I'll wear (with shorts over them) if it's colder. My legs don't seem to get that cold, just upper body and extremities. Oh and I'll wear two pair of socks to keep toes warm.

Seems like a lot but have those layers ready to go in the morning is easy, and the most managable way or riding (as opposed to a big winter jacket).

I'll ride in most temperatures as long as it's dry. If it's slushy out muddy out (after big snowmelt) I'll take the bus, as I hate cleaning slush and grime off my bike.

Even when it's dry watch out for ice patches, my only spill in five years of commuting has been rounding a corner, slipping/falling on the ice, and sliding right through the intersection. Luckily it was a quiet neighborhood intersection and the cab driver (who had the right of way) saw me sliding through. And sliding prevented and rash to me or my bike -- anyway just a heads up -- I feel great after a ride into work through the cold.

I use silk long johns and polypro and wool layers plus a skiing jacket w/ pit zips. To keep your pants from fouling the chain, use a reflective geek strap to tie the hem around your ankle. Keep your head, hands and feet warm and if your core is warm, you'll be fine. Typically I wear one layer less than if I was walking because I produce heat while riding.

Tire-wise, I use regular slicks in rain and snow. We don't get much ice here so I don't bother w/ studded tires, but from what others have said, they're worth it if you get a lot of ice or hard pack snow. Just take turns slowly and watch out for slick steel plates on the road. Try to go around them if you can.

Just keep riding this fall. As the weather gets colder and colder, you'll get used to it. Before you know it, it's mid-December and you're telling yourself, "I've made it this far--I might as well keep going." By spring you'll be a stronger and prouder rider than ever!

1) these are good booties, the best ones I've ever had: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=17558&item=10-3807&slitrk=search&slisearch=true

2) leave your shoes rather loose so blood can circulate for warmth, and so insulating airspace isn't crushed out of your socks

3) if you get a rechargeable headlight, don't pick one with lead-acid battery chemistry, they lose power at low temperatures.

4) another vote for putting some studded tires on your mountain bike. Nokian Mount & Ground is one that I hear a lot about. I've got Nokian Extreme 294's but the IRC Blizzard 112-stud model is also good, if you find some of those.

5) keep a little bottle of TriFlow oil at work, and a few rags, and lube your chain if you had to ride in wet conditions. Then wipe off the excess oil with the rag, removing some dirt and the excess oil (you need the oil primarily inside the rollers and between the plates, not on the outside of the chain).

6) Keep a sharp eye on the road surface. Even small ruts on ice can slide your front wheel away.

Sounds like you're good to go.

In spite of the cold, you may need to carry water. A spare set of clothes or at least an extra pair of socks is pretty comforting when you're arriving at work after unexpected bad weather.

Edited: Nobody mentioned much about what goes under the helmet. A liner to keep your head dry is a good choice. You can make one with a stapler and some vinyl or just shell out $20 for one. You just sandwich the liner between the helmet and a thin wool cap that covers the ears. The liner and wool cap stays in place when you take the helmet off.

To counter a comment to the contrary, I'll add: I actually intentionally leave EARLIER so that I can get my morning commute in total darkness instead of dawn. If you have good lighting, IMHO it's safer to ride at night than in the daytime.
At night, they may not know what you are, but they know SOMETHING is there. In my experience, with full lights and blinkies on in pitch darkness, cars move WAY the heck over. Most of them hug the far side of the left lane when riding around me. I get far more clearance and more consistently at night than in the daytime.
It's entirely possible (likely in fact) that they do recognize me as a bicycle. And they probably think to themselves "This guy is insane, I'm staying the heck away from him."

It was a very strange feeling to ride in the dark and quiet on a country road the first time, especially back when I was doing it with much weaker lights than the HID I ride with now. But I soon came to really love it. It's especially fun when you come across animals in the dark, though I must admit that I have had some bad scenarios going through my head at times when I heard coyotes in the woods not too far off.

Agreeing with It'sJustMe. When it's completely dark [and you have good lights] they can see you better than at dawn. Also there's something about riding just before dawn that sharpens your senses. It's so tranquil - ususally -

All great tips listed so far...

Motivation to get out there when it is dark, freezing cold and snowing is the hardest thing for me to over come more so than equipment. However, once I get out there, and after the first mile or so, I'm so glad that I'm riding to work.

Althought it has beeen over used, my only advice I can add is "Just do it"

Good luck & happy trails

T.J.

+1 for the Nokians. I have the hakkepellita 106s. They make winter commuting feasible for me considering I use a cycle track which often has snow which melts and refreezes in winter. if you are riding streets which get ploughed,it should be all you need.

I’ll also note for the first time bike commuter in the winter that synthetic and wool fabrics are great and cotton is totally evil, beware.

If you are dressed right your skin will be cold for the first 5-15 minutes. This is the mental challenge that makes winter commuting difficult. You have to convince yourself each morning, that yes the down jacket from LL bean is over kill and that yes eventually your skin will thaw. Each morning it is a struggle for me, but by the time I get to work I'm as sweaty and hot as normal.

My legs will be warm well below freezing provided it's not wet, so I wear shorts. I have tights for the rainy slushy days.

I've never used studded tires (cheap/lazy bastard) so I just ride good and slow in snow/ice.

1) these are good booties, the best ones I've ever had: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=17558&item=10-3807&slitrk=search&slisearch=true

2) leave your shoes rather loose so blood can circulate for warmth, and so insulating airspace isn't crushed out of your socks

3) if you get a rechargeable headlight, don't pick one with lead-acid battery chemistry, they lose power at low temperatures.

4) another vote for putting some studded tires on your mountain bike. Nokian Mount & Ground is one that I hear a lot about. I've got Nokian Extreme 294's but the IRC Blizzard 112-stud model is also good, if you find some of those.

5) keep a little bottle of TriFlow oil at work, and a few rags, and lube your chain if you had to ride in wet conditions. Then wipe off the excess oil with the rag, removing some dirt and the excess oil (you need the oil primarily inside the rollers and between the plates, not on the outside of the chain).

6) Keep a sharp eye on the road surface. Even small ruts on ice can slide your front wheel away.

Even though they were great when new, the studs on my IRC Blizzards wore out very, very fast. They are just steel. I took them all out measured them and replaced them with Nokian studs. But the IRC pocket is deeper and the studs are longer so it was not as good as new.

I do ride over a little pavement with studs but not much. My 294's will be starting season five (I think). This year. I took some sample studs out and measured them. Even though the sharp corner of the cylinder is going away they are the same length within five thousands, that's as good as new. The Tire is breaking down and they are a little more recessed, but only on the drive side on the rear. The handling was not affected so I just rotated them, I did not rotate them before last year. One tire, one side, gives me four rotations I hope. Also, by taking out the studs and putting them back they do not recess in as far. It remains to be seen if they stay that way for a while or just go right back in, I don't know yet. Also the studs up on the sides still have that nice sharp edge on the cylinder. If you don't mind taking time you can rotate the studs. If you get around to it, I found a great way to insert and remove studs.

... My main trouble here is mental as this will be an immense pain in the...

I commute in Madison, and have a few pointers. First, yes you can do it easily.

Lights: Get some. At a minimum get some cheap halogen lights 10w or so. At the other end is hub generators and long burn LiIon HID lights. Rear lights are important, run at least 1 blinkie and 1 solid light. Put the reflectors back on your bike...reflective tape is your friend.

Clothing: I wear UnderArmor cold gear, then a cycling jacket. for most weather and I'm fine. Legs I wear cycling shorts/tights and windproof sweat-pants. The key is to start out cold. You will warm up. If you start out warm, you will sweat like a pig, the sweat gets pulled away from you and then starts to freeze. You then start to freeze. Also, be sure that your jacket is windproof. I use ski gloves and they work fine. Mittens are also good, but make sure you can shift/brake with them. I have Lake winter boots that I usuaully wear and they are great with wool socks. When it gets below 5F, I still go with just plain old winter boots on the platform pedal. Use a balaclava. It fits under your helmet and keeps your ears/face warm. On really cold days, use ski goggles. You look like a freak, but you don't get frostbite on your face.

Spares: Practice practice practice changing tires with cold hands. If you have to stop when its that cold you will need shelter quickly since you are dressed for activity, not standing around. Also, the thicker/more puncture resistant tires you can use, use them.

Snow/Ice: Mostly this isn't a problem, and you can ride a skinny tire road-bike. However your enemy is freeze/thaw/freeze. That stuff is glare ice and you WILL fall eventually if you ride over it without studs. Studs are great, Nokians the best, but also $$$. Innova studs work too, but don't ride them daily. If you just put studs on and ride, get the Nokians. If you just ride when its nasty out, cheaper tires are fine. In deep snow you might have to walk. So be it, if your ride is 20 min, thats what, 5 miles? That is what my commute is, and I've had to walk sections of it before. It'll be fine.

Attitude: Pack the night before. If you don't, its awfully easy to just take the car today....

Maint: I'm a slacker. I wipe down the bike and re-lube weekly. By the end of the winter my chain is rusty and I replace it. Drivetrain seems to be okay through 2 winters now.

Lastly, if you ever have a specific question, check out winter forums or shoot me a PM. You can do it, you just need to WANT to do it. Good luck.

There's not a lot I can add here, so I'll just throw in two things: Will and Wind.

That first 10 minutes or so before you warm up is the hardest part...you literally need to will yourself through it, and early in the morning, when you're tired, it can be VERY difficult.

Wind: All the fleece and layers won't matter without a windproof shell of some kind. I discovered this one day whilst riding with a poly-pro base layer and a thick fleece...my chest froze due to the wind, while the rest of me was toasty. You need to stop the wind from cutting through all your layers. The wind will kill you hands and feet too, if not appropriately protected.

I have been commuting for 20 years in Ontario. Layer up but not too much or you will sweat real bad, which is not safe in winter. Lights will be needed. Big, huge, giant knobs work best. Careful on ice unless you have studded tires. Generally main roads are in good condition. Side streets can be snow covered which can be hard to ride on. Keep extremities covered from wind, ears, fingers and toes. A bandanna works great for ears and around neck to stopp that annoying cold spot on adams apple.