Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - HELP! I dont know what happened to my suicide hub!

Ok so im planning on getting new wheelset. that $135 one thats on this forum somewhere.

anyways i would like to know what happened to my suicide hub. I dont care if it doesn't get fixed. i wanna dissect it and find out how it works.

Theres like this plastic/glue stuff that came off. It was brittle like. i dunno if its the loctite; i dont know. So when i pedal the cog moves but not the wheel but if i pedal lightly i can still get the whole wheel to turn with me. So its not loosey goosey.

Here are pics. Please help!
http://photos-699.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v45/140/125/6014077/n6014077_31556699_937.jpg
http://photos-700.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v45/140/125/6014077/n6014077_31556700_1305.jpg
http://photos-701.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v45/140/125/6014077/n6014077_31556701_1634.jpg
http://photos-703.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v45/140/125/6014077/n6014077_31556703_2297.jpg

It's stripped.

Edit:

..and when you dissect it, you ain't gonna find nothin' but two smooth surfaces sliding across each other instead of threads.

"Stripped. S-T-R-I-P-P-E-D. Stripped."

the aluminum threads from the hub are probably the debris coming out

That "brittle like" substance is (was) your threads...in itty bitty ground up pieces. The "glue" is the grease used to lube them for installation.

The hub and cog are dead. If the rim is good salvage it. If not, chunk the whole wheel and buy a new complete one.

your suicide hub committed suicide.
wow, that's so emo!

your suicide hub committed suicide.
wow, that's so emo!

ha ha! +louis gossett jr.

ah the hazards of suicide hubs...I don't miss those days.

Nice pics:D

Did you check the levels on all the fluids? Common mistake, n00b.

ah the hazards of suicide hubs...I don't miss those days.
This is the second thread that this kid has mentioned this problem and yet again: This would have happened even if the hub had a reverse-threaded lockring. This is the hazard of CRAPPY hubs, not suicide hubs.

Just what I was going to say, Aeroplane. Unless the cog was moving back and forth a lot (i.e. unscrew itself).
Funny that a Shimano would do this. I guess it was old, low-end, corroded, possibly cross-threaded at some point etc. Time for a shiny new hub.

Related news: I'm done with my new rear wheel!!! Shimano XT front hub respaced, DX cog drilled to fit the disc mount and yummy shiny parts. I'll post pics and details when I'm back from the maiden voyage.

Seems like maybe the guy who sold it to you might have had a problem and did a quick fix before selling it. I'm happy I don't have to worry about that anymore. *whew* Good luck getting a new wheelset, and I hope you aren't turned off from fixed riding.

I measured the rear dropouts on the frame and its 120 mm across. I looked online and older road bikes used to have 126mm spacing. but this one is 120 mm im sure of it. I measured the space between the dropouts so i know i measured the correct space now..
So does that mean the track hub I buy will fit exactly inside? Then what about room for the lockring and cog? How does that fit in? Or does it mean the axel can accommodate up to 120mm. And do you think this new wheel will have to be redished? I realy dont want to goto the trouble of going to a bike shop. My mechanic friend can only true wheels, I dont think he can redish them.

I talked to the guy who sold them to me. he said he could fix them if i brought them to his place. but i have no car so that's not possible. So i want to get new wheels and im looking at track ones with 120 mm spacing so im asking you guys, would this fit in my dropouts with the lockring and cog?

Its a steel frame so i could spread it maybe 4 mm to accomodate if it doesn't fit.

Since the hub and lockring are connected to the hub, everything will fit. The 120mm is the distance between the locknuts on the axle. If you can true wheels, you can redish them, but if you're buying a track wheel, you won't need to. Road wheels are dished to provide clearance for the cog cluster. Single speed wheels don't need to be dished, so the center of the hub is in line with the center of the rim for strength and simplicity.

Also, there is no fixing what has happened you your hubs. they are dead.

My mechanic friend can only true wheels, I dont think he can redish them.


If he can true he can redish.

I am curious how this guy was going to fix it. You should find someone to drive you just so you can tell us. At least ask him.

I hope he doesn't visit these forums. because he never gave me permission to post this and i dont want him thinking bad about me because he did drive down personally to give me the bike.

This is what he wrote:
"First you need to invest in a strap to keep your pant leg from getting
caught.

But seriously I will repair it for you if you can get it to me,
otherwise here is what is involved:

You probably spun the cog. What you need to do to fix the problem is
remove the rear wheel and unthread the cog clean the threads with
acetone or lacquer thinner, then reapply the locktite, blue, and
rethread the cog tightly. In fact you might try riding the bike 100
feet before the loctite dries to get the cog on there very snug.


For the purposes of rear wheel purchase your bike has 126 mm dropout
spacing. Unfortunately it is likely the wheel you buy will have 130 mm
spacing which means you have to adapt the wheel in some way. Basically
you have two options: . First you could respace a 130 mm wheel. This is
sort of tricky and requires special tools but is definitely the best
solution. Second you could spread the stays 4 mm every time you insert
the wheel. I have a titanium road bike that i do this with and it is
not a big deal but it is a pain. Lastly you could try and buy a wheel
that is spaced for 126 mm. The good news is tha"

So I dont know what he's talking about but why is he saying the wheel i buy will be 130mm? Im purchasing track wheels not mountain wheels.

Hey sivat you goto UCI right? Is it alright if sometime after class you swing by my place and help me with installing track wheels when I get them?

The hub and cog are dead. If the rim is good salvage it. If not, chunk the whole wheel and buy a new complete one.
It's unlikely that the cog is damaged. Track cogs are almost always steel, even the crappy stamped ones. Steel threads will wipe off the alu ones on the hub without being affected themselves at all.

so the hub is dead then. Should I try to save the rim then? Aww and it was a Shimano hub too. Damn.
I am thinking of getting a smaller cog anyways so this is the perfect time I guess. I was running 42x17.

road wheels are 130 not MTB. He has no clue what he's talking about and thinks you just spun the cog off not stripped it.

What kind if rim is it? Cheapo rims aren't worth saving.

it says ARAYA Japan on it. 27x1 1/4 on it

get a complete wheel or wheelset.

Anyways im getting the track wheels for sure.
the ones here: http://shop.greatdealsonbikes.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GDOB&Product_Code=TR01&Category_Code=TR
if anyone knows a better deal please tell me
and can someone please confirm that they will fit on my 120mm spaced rear dropouts? I just need someone, anyone before i make this purchase just for my peace of mind.

Also I heard you can ask them to space it for you for free. Since im already 120mm, that means i dont need to space it right?

Your bike has probably been cold set (bent with caution) into 120mm spacing. In which case the wheels should fit fine. If you want to pm me your address, I should be able to drop by after school sometime to help you out. I'm not sure the guy who sold you the wheels really knows what he's talking about. It kinda sounds like he deals a lot with suicide hubs, but doesn't know much about actually fixed gear hubs.

"I measured the rear dropouts on the frame and its 120 mm across."

120mm was standard spacing on older road frames of the five speed variety. 126 is more common on six and seven speed roadies, though some early six speed frames used a 122mm spacing.