Bicycle Mechanics - Outboard Bearing Type BB Click, Click

I have a shimano FC-5603 i.e. 105 triple 30 speed hollowtech crank. At 1k ks it started to tick at 1 o'clock when pedalling standing, the lbs pulled it apart, regreased, tightened, & put it back together. Problem solved.
Since then I've added 6k ks, & again I have a similar tick which was intermittent to begin with but is now consistently occurring when pedalling standing. This persistent tick occurs on both sides around 4 or 5 o'clock which is when I start to rock the bike back the other way.
Lbs stripped it down, regreased again, but this attempt failed on the second hill. Pedals have been swapped, greased & tightened. Bottle cages removed & frame welds checked. When it starts I sit down & the ticking stops with the load off the pedals. Have checked left crank arm bolts, chainring bolts, derailleur clearance, and headset play. Creaking is also apparent by putting sideway weight on the pedal when off the bike.
Lbs is suggesting maybe to reface the BB shell. I'm suggesting maybe some locktite type compound as well on the cup threads.
Do this type of BB create more problems than older style BB?
One guy from "over there" has suggested thread tape solved his ticking BB. Any thoughts????

I wanted to bump this up. I hear the same click after about 1,500 miles. I have not regreased the bearing. New chain though. I normally do all my own work since the closest shop is 45 minutes away but I need to get the cup tool.

The problem took some finding & turned out to be a crack in the rear dropout where the derailleur claw attaches. Initially I didn't find the crack but stopped the clicking by greasing between the claw & dropout. It wasn't till a couple of weeks later that I pulled it apart, cleaned & inspected. The frame was replaced under warranty

I'd start with this:

1.Face the bb shell.
2. Reinstall the bearing cups using several turns of plumbing teflon tape on the threads and torque them to spec.

The problem took some finding & turned out to be a crack in the rear dropout where the derailleur claw attaches. Initially I didn't find the crack but stopped the clicking by greasing between the claw & dropout. It wasn't till a couple of weeks later that I pulled it apart, cleaned & inspected.
Another thing I was going to suggest was to check if the derailer pulley hits the teeth on the cassette, and if so add a little tension (or shorten the chain) and also check the pulley cog for damage.

+1 on the pedal threads greasing. It was the left one. Odd thing the click occured on the right pedal down stroke. Before this I did find I could uncrew the right BB bearing by hand. It was hard but came loose. Oh, and it still clicked after tightening and greasing the bottom bracket before I greased the left pedal.

Therefore on the top of SB list
"Pedals Loose?
Check this first, the pedals should be snuggly screwed into the cranks. The left pedal has a left ("reverse") thread. The threads of the pedals should be lubricated with grease. "