Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Looking for some assitance in choosing parts for my next cycle

(I apologize in advance if this has already been addressed in other threads, I'm really busy and I don't have the time to go digging through lots of threads, so please no "why don't you search" replies, thanks)

I am interested in bicycle commuting in the West LA area. For the most part the terrain I will traverse is fairly flat, and the roads are in good condition. The traffic is heavy, however.

I have a lot of riding time under my belt on mountain bikes with slick tires, my last bike was a trek 4600. My problem is that I come in at a lean 240, and I tend to torque the crank very hard. I frequently ride in high gear because it's more efficient with my strong legs than riding in lower gears, even up hills - I can apply a great deal of torque, my maximum RPM is the limiting factor. Thus I see rapid stripping of gear teeth on the large gear, the crank comes loose and the bearings inside start to shake back and forth. I'd like to put together a bike which takes my build and strength into account, is very durable, and is as cheap as possible. I am interested in getting a touring bike, and I would like to put aftermarket cranks and gear cassettes on which can handle daily commuter riding by a big strong guy. My price limit is probably going to be under $1000 this time around and I don't have a problem buying the frame used. With all that being said, does anyone have good suggestions as far as parts that meet my requirements and aren't priced for the "enthusiast" portion of the market?

(I apologize in advance if this has already been addressed in other threads, I'm really busy and I don't have the time to go digging through lots of threads, so please no "why don't you search" replies, thanks)

I am interested in bicycle commuting in the West LA area. For the most part the terrain I will traverse is fairly flat, and the roads are in good condition. The traffic is heavy, however.

I have a lot of riding time under my belt on mountain bikes with slick tires, my last bike was a trek 4600. My problem is that I come in at a lean 240, and I tend to torque the crank very hard. I frequently ride in high gear because it's more efficient with my strong legs than riding in lower gears, even up hills - I can apply a great deal of torque, my maximum RPM is the limiting factor. Thus I see rapid stripping of gear teeth on the large gear, the crank comes loose and the bearings inside start to shake back and forth. I'd like to put together a bike which takes my build and strength into account, is very durable, and is as cheap as possible. I am interested in getting a touring bike, and I would like to put aftermarket cranks and gear cassettes on which can handle daily commuter riding by a big strong guy. My price limit is probably going to be under $1000 this time around and I don't have a problem buying the frame used. With all that being said, does anyone have good suggestions as far as parts that meet my requirements and aren't priced for the "enthusiast" portion of the market?

If you're going CX, touring, or road bike for the frame, then check out Phil Wood BB's. A bit pricey at just over $100, but if you're really hammering, they'll hold up. If that and the cranks are the only aftermarket parts (aside from small priced things like rack/fenders/etc.) then you can come in under the $1K mark.
I'm 260 pounds and building a SS/FG for my next commuter, and I'm going with the Phil BB to handle the stress I'll put on it.

If you are looking to save money your best bet is to buy a complete bike. Talk to LBS's and see if they could swap out some light weight parts for more heavy duty and the possoble cost difference. Most shops would understand your problems and gladly work with you.
Trying to build up a bike from scratch, which is by the way a ton of fun, is not the cheapest way to do it.

Also keep in mind the wise words of Keith Bontrager.... Light, Strong, cheap...... pick two.

I have the same torque issue you do. I ride an old Trek 720 touring bike with a Phil Wood 48 spoke rear cassette hub. I used a Phil Wood freewheel hub for a few years, and I twisted two freewheels out of whack. The cassette version seems to have solved that problem; it’s got four sealed bearings in it, two under the wheel and another two under the cassette.

I put a Phil Wood bottom bracket in a few years ago when the bearings in the old one got rough, and it made a phenomenal difference. I’m Phil Wood’s biggest fan.