Bicycle Mechanics - Shimano cordless FlightDeck install question.

I'm just finishing up my new roadbike and I'm assembling the Dura-Ace 7703 brifters to the handlebars on my Flyte SRS-3 that I just bought last week. I've got the hoods rolled back slightly and I'm finished installing the brake cables and housings including the flexible "outer guide" thingy which is taped with scotch tape right now. I'm basically ready for the handlebar tape.
Here's my question: Since I plan to use a Shimano Flightdeck (cordless model), but I haven't bought it yet, should I wait til I have the Flightdeck and install it before I install the handlebar tape? If I install the handlebar tape now and order the Flightdeck later, is it going to be more of a pain?
I'm eager to finish this project but short on funds for a couple of weeks. I have my perfectly reliable regular old road bike that I can ride right now.
Thanks for any tips on the Flightdeck and installing one.
P.S. Since I'll be using the Flightdeck which displays the gear is it redundant to use the inline optical gear indicator thing?
Thanks again experts.:)

I'd wait.

Depending on the handlebar wrap that you use it may or may not be possible to simply unwrap and reuse what you have but you can almost always do a neater job using brand new handlebar tape.

I'd also deep-six the optical gear indicators since you're planning to use a Flight Deck computer.

If you insist on the Flight deck then it will definitely be easier to wait.

That said, you might want to consider other computer options, especially since you've already got an optical gear indicator. The flight deck is expensive for what you get. I have one and I think I'd choose something else next time.

If you insist on the Flight deck then it will definitely be easier to wait.

That said, you might want to consider other computer options, especially since you've already got an optical gear indicator. The flight deck is expensive for what you get. I have one and I think I'd choose something else next time.

The virtual cadence doesn't necessarily interest me, but I do like the idea of the little buttons on the brake hoods. You're right about the price though. I was planning on giving my local bike shop the business but I need to pony up $120, and that's including my 10% that I get for being a Dayton Cycling Club member.

How often do you start/stop or change the display while you're riding? Especially if you're not using the cadence.

The brake hood buttons are definitely neat, but come at a high price. If you can find a computer that displays all the info you want on one screen then technically you can just leave it and check stuff like averages/distance when you get home.

Since I'll be using the Flightdeck which displays the gear is it redundant to use the inline optical gear indicator thing?


Yeah, it's redundant, but why not? I've got both. At dawn, dusk, or in some bright lighting situations the LCD display is hard to read.

On the other hand, you can always just look down at the cluster.:)

I'd also recommend waiting and getting rid of the inline indicators. Also, a simple tip in case you hadn't already thought of it is to wrap your interface wires around your brake cables and leave a little stress relief loop nearthe harness.

http://www.neebu.net/%7Ekhuon/albums/2001-aegis-aro_svelte/pict0001_009.sized.jpg

Thanks for the prompt replies. I love this forum. I've found that whenever I'm doing actual work on my bikes (not theoretical questions but real world) folks who've been there, share. :)
Having both optical and electronic gear indicators is tempting but maybe a little overkill. Also right now I'm trying to determine the optimal housing length for the shift housing. What degree of gentle overlap should I seek. Or, should the cables just touch, or not at all. I hope folks understand my question. I've got my Shimano TL-CT10 cable/housing cutter poised to trim the housing to length right now, just need input to make a final decision on that. Thanks again.

Also right now I'm trying to determine the optimal housing length for the shift housing. What degree of gentle overlap should I seek. Or, should the cables just touch, or not at all. I hope folks understand my question. I've got my Shimano TL-CT10 cable/housing cutter poised to trim the housing to length right now, just need input to make a final decision on that. Thanks again.
What you really want to achieve is a "natural bend". This can be different for different brands of cable which may have different levels of stiffness. I would also suggest that you check to make sure the bend is still "natural" at extreme steering deflection. Also check to make sure that the cables aren't pushing or pulling the bars to one side or the other unevenly.