Classic & Vintage - Fork dilemma. What to do...

I just dug into the Aerowind, and realized the fork lower race sucks. It has 1/16th inch side to side slop, and this is a nearly new looking bike. There is no raised collar to tap a normal race onto, so it's live with it or replace the forks entirely. I have a 78 Conti but the head tube is two inches longer. I could use that fork
if I cut it down and had it rethreaded, but that's kind of overkill right? There's a place in town that can do it, which is a good thing. I also have to think about the brake reach. It has "Parapul" brakes, but not the ones
with the rain or shine stickers on them. What can I do, without spending a lot of money(IE: over $20-$30)
Save the throw the bike away jokes for another time, please. They will not be appreciated. These were very unique bikes, that just happened to be made by Huffy.

The fork race is very tall and steep, almost like the force of the centered bearing is going to take the slop out?

Even with a new fork, you're likely looking at replacing the whole headset if that bottom race is that odd. Have you tried using loose bearings instead of caged? That can often offset slop. Is the race damaged in some way to account for the movement?

Neal

Not sure, the race has no contact at all with the fork except at the very top, and the flat bottom on the crown. there's no inner "shoulder" that holds it in place. the top lip that would hold it in place has no damage, it simply looks like it was never the right size to start with. Replacing the headset was part of the plan, ESP if I used the Conti fork. Same era of bike, Schwinn just gave a little more of a sh!te about the headset quality.,,,,BD

Do you have a pic of the whole bike, just for interest? I've just been searching, cos I wanted to know what an Aerowind was, but I can't find a pic.

Not sure, the race has no contact at all with the fork except at the very top, and the flat bottom on the crown. there's no inner "shoulder" that holds it in place. the top lip that would hold it in place has no damage, it simply looks like it was never the right size to start with. Replacing the headset was part of the plan, ESP if I used the Conti fork. Same era of bike, Schwinn just gave a little more of a sh!te about the headset quality.,,,,BD

Get some sheet brass stock at Ace Hardware, cut a slit from it, and use it as a shim between the headset race and the fork.

Alternately, take the fork to an LBS that has some loose headset parts on hand, and try various raceways until you find one that fits snugly, or fits too tight, and use that one - by grinding out excess material if nessesary.

-Kurt

I just had an idea. I have a mig welder. So, I may center a better race onto the fork, and tack weld it in place. The fork steerer had a shiny thin ring worn around it, from the top of the original race, so it was loose from day one appparently.
The brass stock sounds pretty good too, so it would be removable.,,,,HD

Here's a full pic. Intersting mix of entry level Shimano AX, and a huffy made frame.. Three
piece cranks were almost unheard of on low end bikes back then. That was the height of the
HUGE chromed out rings with fancy guards, and one piece cranks. The complete crankset
is alloy on the AW's, it has two tooth steel inserts about every ten teeth or so. It uses an early style BB conversion
kit, and a splined steel axle.

I just noticed a design difference too! On the 26 x1 3/8" wheeled bike in the picture, the upper stays
dead end at the seat tube. On my Arraya wheeled 27 x 1 1/4 models, they straddle the seat clamp area
and are slash cut. Of course these have no seat tube clamp. It uses a sliding nut in a slotted aluminum
seatpost. A steel rod insert holds it stiff in the top for clamping the seat. An allen head bolt below the
stays is the only visible post holding device. It works very well.,,,,BD

Of course these have no seat tube clamp. It uses a sliding nut in a slotted aluminum
seatpost. A steel rod insert holds it stiff in the top for clamping the seat. An allen head bolt below the
stays is the only visible post holding device. It works very well.,,,,BD

Same on the Huffy Windsprint. The design works admirably, I must admit - although it probably adds some unnessesary weight to the post.

I always wonder why those aluminum Huffy posts never oxidize against the steel frame - perhaps it's the flat finish on them. If only most higher-end posts were given this same treatment below the limit line...

-Kurt

Maybe the post is anodized? Don't know, that's a good question. It also has an open slt in the back. Maybe it lets moisture evaporate before oxidizes? I have never heard of a Huffy Windsprint? Got any pics???,,,,BD

You are aware of the so-called JIS standard headest sizing?It's just a touch different than english and may be the solution to your problem. A little sheldon sprinkled on it:

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#headset

DG1


I just dug into the Aerowind, and realized the fork lower race sucks. It has 1/16th inch side to side slop, and this is a nearly new looking bike. There is no raised collar to tap a normal race onto, so it's live with it or replace the forks entirely. I have a 78 Conti but the head tube is two inches longer. I could use that fork
if I cut it down and had it rethreaded, but that's kind of overkill right? There's a place in town that can do it, which is a good thing. I also have to think about the brake reach. It has "Parapul" brakes, but not the ones
with the rain or shine stickers on them. What can I do, without spending a lot of money(IE: over $20-$30)
Save the throw the bike away jokes for another time, please. They will not be appreciated. These were very unique bikes, that just happened to be made by Huffy.

The fork race is very tall and steep, almost like the force of the centered bearing is going to take the slop out?

Cheapest fix might be to pick up a tube of Loctite 262 or equivalent at an auto parts store. I've used it to secure lower headset cups in steel head tubes that had been ovalized in off-road riding. It'll fill a good-sized gap. Just make sure that the lower cup is square with the top cup while the Loctite sets up.

Yeah I was thinking of JB welding it centered. The only bad thing about the Sheldon info, is that this IS a factory part on the bike. It never fit correctly at all. If they couldn't find one while building the bike, it may be tough to find now, lol. I will give it a try though. The JB weld centering sounds better and better, hehe.,,,,BD

Yeah I was thinking of JB welding it centered. The only bad thing about the Sheldon info, is that this IS a factory part on the bike. It never fit correctly at all. If they couldn't find one while building the bike, it may be tough to find now, lol. I will give it a try though. The JB weld centering sounds better and better, hehe.,,,,BD

Would suggest the brass sleeve + the JB Weld. Sooner or later the JB will break loose unless the brass spacers are utlized.

-Kurt

Get some sheet brass stock at Ace Hardware, cut a slit from it, and use it as a shim between the headset race and the fork.

Much better idea than what my friend did with his beater - he cut the shim out of an old PBR can ;)

<<it simply looks like it was never the right size to start with.>>

That is the way they were. Drop it on there and put it together style. No pressing involved. Slop normal. Extra Crappy.

As I think you said only the top edge of the inside of the race is close to contacting the fork tube. (and that is rather sharp) The edge ends up slowly wearing away at the fork tube. Frightening.

Ive used locktite with good results on slightly loosefitting races with a verticle inside edge but these are tapered. I'd go with JB weld .

Wouldn't put heat to that fork.

Not that frightening, it took twenty or more years to remove the paint. Man I am sorry every time I mention a bike not made of 531 or above on this site. Some people seem to think if it's not over $650 new, it will fall apart if you cough too loud next to it. Wouldn't put heat to that fork why? As long as you don't plunge it into ice cold water right after welding, it would not affect it at all?

Much better idea than what my friend did with his beater - he cut the shim out of an old PBR can ;)

So what's wrong with old PBR can shims? That's a 25 year old trick for me on vintage Triumph motorcycles - and if I can trust it at 85+, it'll certainly work just fine on a bicycle.

<Man I am sorry every time I mention a bike not made of 531 or above on this site. >>

Well piff and codswallow I say! I had the balls to post my sears bike in the classics thread so I have no sympathy for you.

Still wouldn't try to weld a heat treated race an eight of an inch from the brazing of a fork.

I didn't ask for sympathy so there, lol. Just for people to put aside there hatred for low end bikes, long enough to ask a question. I can see what you mean about
the brazing thing, but these are probably welded, I will strip the paint to be sure.,,,,,BD

I'd get a chrome tang headset on line at about $8 and do as Kurt said only I'd try a brass pluming supply bathtub tube with a split to take out excess--that way it would be round to start with.it would be under $20 and you'd keep the original fork---sam

Yes, I was definitely planning on a headset upgrade. The brass tubing is a VERY good idea, thanks. I found a rear Suntour Cyclone, so it will have a set of those. I'm going to try the centerpulls off of the 78 conti as well, if I can work it. Nowhere to mount the rear cable guide/clamp, since there's no seatpost clamping hardware. Since I'm going to repaint anyway, maybe a tack weld, or get someone to braze it on. Wish I had a torch!! Only got a mig. I want to change the brakes, since there's no replacements for the original shoes. Even Sheldon scratched his head, hehe....,,,,BD