I take my bike to Budget in Eagle Rock for regular maintenance and care. Since I bought it (and my first bike) there, they are very nice about doing regular mini-maintenance for free (and they do a great job!). But in between, I'm always confused about proper care on the bike. Since I'm riding excessive miles this weekend, should I put a few drops of the lube I bought (from them - and, no, I can't think of the name of the brand at present) in the crank? Mind you, I don't know how to clean the chain and crank and don't want to even attempt to remove them. I just want to know if it would hurt or help if I added a couple of drops before this weekend's rides. (Just so you know, I had the bike maintenanced roughly 3 weeks ago, so it shouldn't be needing much.)

Since I've gotten conflicting advise from all sorts of "I-do-my-own-bike-maintenance" type guys, and it has always conflicted, I thought I'd ask here. :D

m.e. no lubing the crank.

Perhaps the chain, but after 3 weeks it probably doesn't need it. If you insist, clean chain, put a drop on each pin. Let it sit there for at least 30 minutes and then wipe the outside of the chain clean

The quick and easy way to clean the chain. spray it with WD 40, Simple Green, or your favorite degreaser and then while grabbing the chain with a rag, spin the crank backward.

I lube the MTB chain every ride, the roadie gets it every 2-3 rides.

You don't have to lube the crank, the chain needs lube, though. Just turn the bike upside down on an old blanket or towel. Wipe the chain with a rag as you turn the crank backwards. Then drip or spray the chain lube on as you turn it slowly. Hold a rag under the chain so you don't get it all over everything. After this you can wipe off the excess. I do this once a week.

You don't have to lube the crank, the chain needs lube, though. Just turn the bike upside down on an old blanket or towel. Wipe the chain with a rag as you turn the crank backwards. Then drip or spray the chain lube on as you turn it slowly. Hold a rag under the chain so you don't get it all over everything. After this you can wipe off the excess. I do this once a week.
You know, I've tried that (only not turning the bike upside down, just picking it up to turn the crank). But then I was told to NEVER lube my chain, just put a drop in the crank, turn it and then leave the "wiping" to the guys in the shop. Ugh! I should take a bike maintenance class. I tried to at REI, but it was dreadful! Long story and not all that interesting...I think I need Bike Maintenance for Dummies. In the meantime, I'll try that tonight. :)

The quick and easy way to clean the chain. spray it with WD 40, Simple Green, or your favorite degreaser and then while grabbing the chain with a rag, spin the crank backward.

That's my favorite quick method of cleaning the chain before applying some fresh lube to the chain. WD-40 is cheap and makes for a nice degreaser.

That's my favorite quick method of cleaning the chain before applying some fresh lube. WD-40 is cheap and makes for a nice degreaser.
I didn't think I could use WD-40 on my chain :eek: Isn't that bad for it? I bought the fancy-schmancy, only for road bikes lube - expensive! :mad:

I used to not do any maintenance at all. The LBS was always appalled by how dirty my chain would appear. Now, I lube my chain about once a week, though that's probably excessive seeing as for most of the week, it just sits there. (But on the other hand, on recent weekends, I've more than made up for that on weekend rides.) If you get some lube, just follow the instructions on the lube. For mine (Rock & Roll lube), you simply drizzle it on the chain near the cassette, then spin the cranks backward for about 5 seconds, then wipe off as much as you can. You probably should use a rag to wipe it off, but for lack of available rags, I just use paper towels, taking care not to shred the paper and leave debris in the chain.

[e] Yeah, you can clean first if you so desire. The R&R lube supposedly cleans at the same time, so I skip that hassle and just lube. Hose it on, spin the cranks around, wipe it off. Easy. And seemingly extremely effective seeing as I manage to wipe huge amounts of dirt off of the chain each time. And at $10 for a bottle that seems to last for months and months and months, it's pretty cheap, too.

Okay, this is how dumbblond I am. When I've been saying "crank" - I meant "cassette." Maybe I really should leave it up to the shop guys! :o

degrease then lube chain. dont overlube.

You know, I've tried that (only not turning the bike upside down, just picking it up to turn the crank). But then I was told to NEVER lube my chain, just put a drop in the crank, turn it and then leave the "wiping" to the guys in the shop. Ugh! I should take a bike maintenance class. I tried to at REI, but it was dreadful! Long story and not all that interesting...I think I need Bike Maintenance for Dummies. In the meantime, I'll try that tonight. :)

I dont think they really do a full chain cleaning for their free adjustment or even their full tuneup...I think


Its actually really easy....I clean my chain every 3-4 weeks...I use that orange degreaser stuff and one of those park chain cleaners...then I lube the chain..I would never lube a dirty chain...after a cleaning..it shifts very smooth and really quiet...
I use my bike rack...works great...
ME..anytime you want to come over for a chain cleaning party....I dont think you are too far from me...
h

What happens if you overlube? How do you know if you overlube? Is it possible to overlube if you wipe off as much as you can? I have not a clue about all this stuff.

I didn't think I could use WD-40 on my chain :eek: Isn't that bad for it? I bought the fancy-schmancy, only for road bikes lube - expensive! :mad:

NO.....WD-40 is only used to degrease your chain of old lube, smudge, & gunk. After chain is reasonably clean and dry, apply your favorite chain lube.

Okay, this is how dumbblond I am. When I've been saying "crank" - I meant "cassette." Maybe I really should leave it up to the shop guys! :o

:p

It doesn't hurt to clean the cassette. Just make sure not to get any degreaser(or any kind of cleaner) into the hub, you know the hole in the middle of the cassette.:D

ME..anytime you want to come over for a chain cleaning party....I dont think you are too far from me...
h
Herb, I'll take you up on that. I'd really like to know how and stop being "helpless" with little maintenance tricks that will keep my bike in top shape. I ride too much to slack on that! :D

:p

It doesn't hurt to clean the cassette. Just make sure not to get any degreaser(or any kind of cleaner) into the hub, you know the hole in the middle of the cassette.:D
I did not know what the hub was, actually...another blonde moment.:p

Thought of changing your hair colour? :p :D

What happens if you overlube? How do you know if you overlube? Is it possible to overlube if you wipe off as much as you can? I have not a clue about all this stuff.
Sorry to bump my own post in someone else's thread, but how do I know I'm not overlubing? (Or maybe I am!)

Herb, I'll take you up on that. I'd really like to know how and stop being "helpless" with little maintenance tricks that will keep my bike in top shape. I ride too much to slack on that! :D


Anytime...I have heard a dirty chain will wear faster...probably wear the cassette as well...???

What happens if you overlube? How do you know if you overlube? Is it possible to overlube if you wipe off as much as you can? I have not a clue about all this stuff.

Wet lubes will drip off the chain if you use too much.
Wax lubes will clog up your rear deraileur and you'll end up pulling lots of greasy, black gunk off of it. Otherwise, the only negative impact is the amount of money wasted and how much damage to the environment you are making by using more than necessary.

Sorry to bump my own post in someone else's thread, but how do I know I'm not overlubing? (Or maybe I am!)

The excess lube will catch dust and dirt. So if after the ride (after you lube it) your chain looks like it's been dipped in egg white and rolled in black flour, you're overlubing.

Wet lubes will drip off the chain if you use too much.
Wax lubes will clog up your rear deraileur and you'll end up pulling lots of greasy, black gunk off of it. Otherwise, the only negative impact is the amount of money wasted and how much damage to the environment you are making by using more than necessary.

+1
I know I am going to get blasted for this
I used to use White Lightning...to hard to clean off...only use it for me cleats now..
Usually I use a dry lube..wet if its going to be damp...

Sorry to bump my own post in someone else's thread, but how do I know I'm not overlubing? (Or maybe I am!) So long as you wipe off all the excess, you'r efine. Keep running a rag over the chain until no more lubes comes off.

NO.....WD-40 is only used to degrease your chain of old lube, smudge, & gunk. After chain is reasonably clean and dry, apply your favorite chain lube.
Wouldn't a WD40 soaked chain leave residue that would repel the new lube? I use WD40, lightly sprayed on a rag, then run the chain through the rag, just to get the big gunk off, then lube. Every few hundered miles I'll scrub the chain with a chain cleaner.

Okay, I think I'm okay then. Though I might be a bit wasteful in terms of how much lube I use. But if the effect is measured in cents per week, whatever...

Wouldn't a WD40 soaked chain leave residue that would repel the new lube? I use WD40, lightly sprayed on a rag, then run the chain through the rag, just to get the big gunk off, then lube. Every few hundered miles I'll scrub the chain with a chain cleaner.

Actually.....you're right. What I normally do is to go over the WD-40'd drivetrain with brush & warm soapy water. "WD" stands for water displacement...or something like that if I remember...

You could always pick up one of those chain cleaning tools (Park Tool or Pedros) and just use a solution of simple green and water to clean the chain. :) Makes for a nice little investment for your bike.

I generally clean my bike every 100 miles or so. Depends on how i'm feeling really.

Here's afew good guides:

http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/bikes/prevent.shtml
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=85

Give the job about an hour depending on how fast you work (i take about an hour which is about how long it takes me to wash my car too). :D I degrease the chain and wipe down the casette/rings first then wash the bike. Then dry off and lube chain/derailuers/brake calipers while also putting afew drops on the rear casette (not on the gears but between the gears).

I use Boeshield T9 for lubing along with brake cleaner and white lightning clean streak for degreasing. I don't spray the degreasers on the rear casette, they're strictly for the chain (so i don't take any chances of the degreaser working it's way into the rear hub or bottom bracket).

The Boeshield T9 lasts for quite a while so i don't usually have do a quick chain wipe and relube between my big washing days. :D

After reading the bicycle mechanic forums for the last couple of years, I have come up with a system that works for me.

I now use a chain that can easily be removed from the bike (SRAM with a power link). I remove that chain about every 300-400 miles and clean it thoroughly. I then lubricate it with Progold Prolink chain lube. After reading numerous threads it seems that lube was the one most preferred. I would have to agree, its a great lube. In between cleanings I lubricate the chain every 100-150 miles. I lubricate each pin with a drop of lubricate. The chain is very quiet

Around 600 miles I also take off the rear cassette off the wheel and thoroughly clean it. That way the degreasers will not damage the rear hub.

Following this maintenance schedule is easy. If I can do it, anybody could do it. Following this maintenance schedule I get an extra 2000 miles beyond the norm for the rear cassette and a extra 1000 miles out of the chain before they need to be replaced.

Sorry to bump my own post in someone else's thread, but how do I know I'm not overlubing? (Or maybe I am!)

The main problem with over-lubing a chain is that it will attract more dirt and grime while riding, which ends up sticking to the chain and can wear down your drivetrain components.

A couple of tricks to make sure you are not over-lubing.:

- If you don’t mind a little extra cost, stick with a dry lube (eg. ProLink is my fav)

- Always clean a chain (with a dry cloth) before lubing

- I also clean each cog in the cassette by sticking a cloth in each space (kind of like flossing your teeth) every second lube

- I also wipe down the chain rings

- I give my chain a proper cleaning with a park tool chain cleaner and degreaser about once a month

- Lube each pivort on the chain

- I also lube pivots on the FD and RD

- After the chain is lubed slowly turn the crank and move the chain through all gear combinations

- Then use a clean cloth to wipe off an extra lube on the chain and derailers

- Most important, always lube a chain the night before. This will ensure that the chain will not be too wet to pick up any dirt. I try and avoid riding after lubing a chain. A good trick is to clean and lube your chain after you have finished a ride so your wagon is ready the next time you go out.

merider: Working on your ride (whether it be bike, car, or other) is one of the most satisfying pastimes in life.

1st thing I did was get a master link for my chain (then got an SRAM chain with a masterlink in it) which allows you to just snap your chain apart without using a chain tool. I bought a box of latex gloves to keep my hands smooth and soft, then I take the chain off and put it in a wide-mouth Gatorade bottle. I put about 1/4 cup of Simple Green in it, and HOT water. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or until you're done with the following:

While the chain is soaking, spray the cassette, chainrings, and jockey pulleys on the rear derailleur with Simple Green. Then I take a red shop rag (you can get a bag of 100 for, like 10 bucks at any auto parts store or hardware store) and an old tooth brush and scrub the hell out of it, making it shiny and new-looking. I really get in there. I don't add lube to any of these parts...except for maybe a drop of chain lube into each of the jockey pulleys...but that's all. You're done with the drivetrain.

Now, shake the hell out of that gatorade bottle...then shake it again...and again. Dump the crud out and re-fill with HOT water only. Shake it again and again. Dump and refill, if necessary. If the water coming out is relatively clean (no black stuff), then your chain is as clean as you need it. Pull the chain out and wipe it dry with paper towels. Put it back on your bike. (threading it through the rear derailleur is tricky, but easy once you know how).

Finally, with the bike on its wheels, apply either a spray or drip lube. As you're looking down at the chain, you want to put the lube on the top of the lower part of the chain. Not the top of the upper part. Putting it on the top of the lower part (the 'inside' of the chain, if you will) will allow the teeth of the chainrings and cassette to push the lube into the moving parts of the chain. If the lube is on the outside, the lube won't reach the pivot points of the links. If you're using a drip lube, you need to lube every link. If a spray, put a shop rag over your wheel so your braking surface doesn't get all oily.

Once you're done lubing, turn the crank backwards and hold the lower part of the chain with a rag or paper towels to remove excess lube.

All done. In shorthand:
Take chain off and clean it.
Clean drivetrain.
Reinstall chain and lube.

merider: Working on your ride (whether it be bike, car, or other) is one of the most satisfying pastimes in life.

1st thing I did was get a master link for my chain (then got an SRAM chain with a masterlink in it) which allows you to just snap your chain apart without using a chain tool. I bought a box of latex gloves to keep my hands smooth and soft, then I take the chain off and put it in a wide-mouth Gatorade bottle. I put about 1/4 cup of Simple Green in it, and HOT water. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or until you're done with the following:

While the chain is soaking, spray the cassette, chainrings, and jockey pulleys on the rear derailleur with Simple Green. Then I take a red shop rag (you can get a bag of 100 for, like 10 bucks at any auto parts store or hardware store) and an old tooth brush and scrub the hell out of it, making it shiny and new-looking. I really get in there. I don't add lube to any of these parts...except for maybe a drop of chain lube into each of the jockey pulleys...but that's all. You're done with the drivetrain.

Now, shake the hell out of that gatorade bottle...then shake it again...and again. Dump the crud out and re-fill with HOT water only. Shake it again and again. Dump and refill, if necessary. If the water coming out is relatively clean (no black stuff), then your chain is as clean as you need it. Pull the chain out and wipe it dry with paper towels. Put it back on your bike. (threading it through the rear derailleur is tricky, but easy once you know how).

Finally, with the bike on its wheels, apply either a spray or drip lube. As you're looking down at the chain, you want to put the lube on the top of the lower part of the chain. Not the top of the upper part. Putting it on the top of the lower part (the 'inside' of the chain, if you will) will allow the teeth of the chainrings and cassette to push the lube into the moving parts of the chain. If the lube is on the outside, the lube won't reach the pivot points of the links. If you're using a drip lube, you need to lube every link. If a spray, put a shop rag over your wheel so your braking surface doesn't get all oily.

Once you're done lubing, turn the crank backwards and hold the lower part of the chain with a rag or paper towels to remove excess lube.

All done. In shorthand:
Take chain off and clean it.
Clean drivetrain.
Reinstall chain and lube.


How are you protecting the hub from getting degreaser spray in it?

I used to take my chain off to clean. But over the last couple of years I just use this chain scrubber from Park tools:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=8&item=CM%2D5

It only costs $20 bucks and does just a good of a job IMO. More importantly, because it is so easy to clean the chain with this tool (no need to take chain off) I do it more often.

When you wipe the chain, don't just hold a rag to it and spin the cranks backwards. Wipe a section at a time, move the chain, wipe, etc. It will remove much more gunk that way. I also use a park CC-3 to check on chain wear. It's cheaper to replace a chain than chain/sprockets. Rock-N-Lube is pretty good stuff, I'm playing with Dumond Techlube right now, but may go back to Rock-N-Lube soon.

How are you protecting the hub from getting degreaser spray in it?

Honestly? I never noticed that degreaser spray might be getting in there. I'd say that 9x out of 10 I take the entire cassette off and clean each ring separately.

Aren't some hubs (maybe mine) sealed?

Thank you all for your suggestions. I am giggling to myself because I knew if I posted this, all of you guys would have wonderful (and copious) input. Now, I'm going to have to print this thread and bind it into a manual to use at home! :D :)

Honestly? I never noticed that degreaser spray might be getting in there. I'd say that 9x out of 10 I take the entire cassette off and clean each ring separately.

Aren't some hubs (maybe mine) sealed?

Thats what I thought..but I keep seeing people say you need to be careful...I guess maybe a rag could protect it enough...its not like anyone is dunking it in degreaser...at least I hope not!!
But taking the cassette off seems like too much work...rag and toothbrush work pretty well....

If you've got a chain whip and lockring remover, it's super easy to remove the cassette. Since my cassette just falls apart into 9 cogs and about 7 spacers, it's really easy to clean. Rags and toothbrushes tend to just push the dirt down toward the hub.

If you've got a chain whip and lockring remover, it's super easy to remove the cassette. Since my cassette just falls apart into 9 cogs and about 7 spacers, it's really easy to clean. Rags and toothbrushes tend to just push the dirt down toward the hub.


Just got a lockring remover...need to get the chain whip next... even have my old wheelset and cassette to practice on...but my new chain is a sram...i can now easily do the removal and cleaning....

What happens if you overlube? How do you know if you overlube? Is it possible to overlube if you wipe off as much as you can? I have not a clue about all this stuff.
Not a big deal, Jason, it just makes a mess. It can make your rear brake noisey if you get lube on the rim.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I am giggling to myself because I knew if I posted this, all of you guys would have wonderful (and copious) input. Now, I'm going to have to print this thread and bind it into a manual to use at home! :D :)Can't you wait til it reaches at least a hundred posts before turning it into a manual? :D

Not a big deal, Jason, it just makes a mess. It can make your rear brake noisey if you get lube on the rim.

I sprayed armorall on my tires once... :D I later found out going downhill on a trail that it was a big no, no! Hah! :o

I sprayed armorall on my tires once... :D I later found out going downhill on a trail that it was a big no, no! Hah! :oJust don't Armor-All your motorcycle seat.

Only add lube to a dirty chain if you hear a link sqweaking. Adding a wet lubricant to a dirty chain tends to carry the grit on the outside into the pin/roller interface. It does more harm that good. Clean the chain using a solvent, can waterbased like simple green or oil based like mineral spirits etc. Dry it off, then add fresh lube to each roller.
For wet lube consider plain motor oil. It's a VERY highly engineered lubricant and it's cheap. Another even more highly engineered lube, and specifically designed for high shear environments is automatic transmission fluid. It's got properties no bike specific chain lube has and at $2.00 a quart you have money left for the fun stuff.

Hmmm, for those that have an easily removable chain, have you ever considered simply dropping the chain into a container full of lube? (after a proper cleaning of course) :) Shake container, hang chain above continer to "drip dry" (or at least drip away as much excess lube), then wipe down before reinstalling... Just a thought. Only really feasible if you have access to a gallon jug of lubricant though...

Can't you wait til it reaches at least a hundred posts before turning it into a manual? :D
Why yes, I think I will. We're at 44 (with mine), so come on guys, keep it coming. Don't some of you have tricks for other parts of the bike? (pedal care, re-taping the handles, etc.) Give me, give me! :D

Why yes, I think I will. We're at 44 (with mine), so come on guys, keep it coming. Don't some of you have tricks for other parts of the bike? (pedal care, re-taping the handles, etc.) Give me, give me! :D

I HIGHLY recommend this book....

http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Road-Bike-Maintenance-2nd/dp/1931382697/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_k2a_1_img/104-8401842-4738347?ie=UTF8

even if you dont plan on working on your own bike, it is a great resource to understand the "innerworkings" of your bike...

Oil eater degreaser from Costco. Rags from Costco. Used bike stand from my friendly neighborhood bikeman - this makes it about 1000x easier to keep you bike clean. Once the chain is clean and dry, lube with Prolink - truly the best lube.

BTW, when do we get to take this thread really blue and start talking about dirty lube in a totally different way??