Bicycle Mechanics - Wipperman chains -- worth it?

Looking for opinions here. Anyone use or familar with Wipperman ConneX chains? A RL friend of mine swears by the stainless steel ones, and I've not seen much mentioned in back searches on them, although I did see some problems with their chain connector.

I have a Wipperman 10X1 (Stainless Steel for Campy 10-speed) chain on my bike with just over 2500 miles on it and so-far-so-good. It measures nicely under 1/16" of "stretch" over 12" and the Connex connector has been no trouble at all.

I don't think I'll go to the expense of replacing it with another stainless steel chain but I'm quite happy with Wipperman in general and will probably buy one of their regular steel chains when the time comes.

I've used the 10S0 (nickel plated Shimano 10s chain) and it would never shift well as the Dura Ace chain. Along with that, I broke the Connex Link while pedaling rather lightly up a small hill. Luckily I wasn't hammering. They promptly replaced the chain under warrantee and upgraded me to the stainless version. I didn't even bother using it and sold it on ebay.

I really don't understand the popularity of these over-priced, over-hyped things. Occasionally, people bring them in to have me install having gotten them on ebay or where ever. In every case that I have personally dealt with, they turn a good shifting bike into a chain throwing mess. I mean, if everything's working fine, and suddenly the chain won't go to the big ring without first tattooing the right crank, something ain't right!

Frankly, save your money and get the new KMC chain. They do one with a rust resistant Ti-Nitride coating and they're also super-light with hollow pins and links. We've not yet had a failure, even on some of my more aggressive ATB riders around here.

KMC, FTW.:D

I really don't understand the popularity of these over-priced, over-hyped things. Occasionally, people bring them in to have me install having gotten them on ebay or where ever. In every case that I have personally dealt with, they turn a good shifting bike into a chain throwing mess. I mean, if everything's working fine, and suddenly the chain won't go to the big ring without first tattooing the right crank, something ain't right!

Frankly, save your money and get the new KMC chain. They do one with a rust resistant Ti-Nitride coating and they're also super-light with hollow pins and links. We've not yet had a failure, even on some of my more aggressive ATB riders around here.

KMC, FTW.:D
I certainly agree on the overpriced complaint. However, mine shifts well and has caused no problems in that reguard.

A RL friend of mine swears by the stainless steel ones, and I've not seen much mentioned in back searches on them, although I did see some problems with their chain connector.

The strength of stainless steel is lower than that of the rust-prone steel otherwise used for chains. The chains, particularly 9 and 10 speed, operate on pretty narrow margins. For proper chain operation, you need to lube the chain at the frequency which practically eliminates rusting even if plating is absent or rubs off. Unless you really neglect your chain, the stainless steel ends up as a negative.

I ran a Wipperman on my Roubaix for the most part of this year and I will never buy another Wipperman chain. It was always noisey. I recently switched to a cheap KMC 10speed chain and the drivetrain is quieter and shifts more smoothly. I can't believe I wasted my money on the Wipperman. Got to agree 100% with BikeWise1 on this one.

Don't have any experience with them, but I did meet a wrench for the US National Team and he swore by them. His claim was that Shimano chains lasted 500-1000 miles for racers and the Wippermans did 2000+.

I recently switched to a cheap KMC 10speed chain and the drivetrain is quieter and shifts more smoothly.

I've had the same results with a 9 speed KMC I just bought from Nashbar. Actually, the chain is the "Nashbar 9 speed chain by KMC." $14.95, and I really believe it's quieter than the SRAM it replaced ever was. And I'm thinking it shifts smoother, too! The only thing it hasn't shown me yet is how durable it is. If it turns out that it lasts a reasonable time, I see no reason to go with a different chain, the KMC even has a connector link equal to the SRAM Powerlink-

So, how much does the Wipperman cost? If it can really do 2500 miles, maybe it is cost effective. Just curious.

Caruso

I've not used any Wipperman chains, let alone stainless steel variety, but I've been using a Wipperman Connex link with my Shimano (Ultegra-level) chain on my good road bike. No problems whatsoever with it at 500 miles so far.

I had been snapping Shimano chains on my MTB so I switched to SRAM. No more chainsnaps plus ease of removal for maintenance. However they didn't shift quite as smoothly as Shimano chains. I then tried Wippermann chains and the shifting improved such that it was as smooth if not smoother than Shimano. I recently went back and tried the redesigned SRAMs with the new sideplate design and am very impressed. It's as smooth as Wippermann and Shimano chains. The cost is reasonable too. I do however prefer the ConneXlink to the PowerLink. I may have to give KMC another try as I'm starting to hear good things about them recently. My last experience with KMC chains was about 10 years ago and it was not a pleasant one. I also don't like the KMC quicklink as it's not reusable.

So, how much does the Wipperman cost? If it can really do 2500 miles, maybe it is cost effective. Just curious.

It depends on which one you get. I use the 911 on my RB. If you look for sales you can find them for around $60. For my MTB, I use the 908 which is around $25. You did not mention what speed drivetrain you're running but here's the information I have for 9-speed.

For Shimano 9-speed drivetrains, the following SRAM and Wippermann chains will work:

SRAM
PC-951 - Standard steel, no nickel-plating, bulged sideplates for improved shifting and durability, hardened pins
PC-971 - Nickel-plated bulged outer plates, no nickel-plating on chamfered inner plates, hardened pins
PC-99 - Nickel-plated inner and outer plates, Cross Step reinforced and hardened pins, my "best-buy" SRAM recommendation for budget chains
PC-99HP - Nickel-plated inner and outer plates, hardened hollow pins (lighter)
PC-991 - Nickel-plated chamfered inner and bulged outer plates for improved shifting and durability, hardened pins
PC-991HP - Nickel-plated chamfered inner and bulged outer plates for improved shifting, hardened hollow pins (lighter), my personal SRAM recommendation for high-end
PC-991CS - Nickel-plated chamfered inner and bulged outer plates for improved shifting and durability, Cross Step reinforced and hardened pins
Wippermann-Connex
900 - Unplated steel
904 - Nickel plated outer-link, unplated inner
908 - Full nickel plated, my "best-buy" recommendation if on a budget
909 - "Gold" brass-plated for that extra bling
9C{1,2** - Color-painted in a variety of colours, 9C1 is blue amd 9C2 is red... other colours are available I think and can also be custom-ordered with special colours, fully nickel-plated, same quality as 908
910 - "Champagne" tint for classy-bling, fully nickel-plated, same quality as 908
911 - Lightweight version of the 908, hollow-pins, slotted sideplates, full-nickel plating, my personal recommendation for high-end drivetrains, about 50% more expensive than 908
920 - Teflon coated version of the 908, recommended for extremely corrosive environments such as riding near saltwater or for those who don't like to regularly lube/clean their chains
9X1 - Stainlesss steel, extra strong, anti-rust, expensive
9TR - Titanium-Roller version of the 911, very expensive (~$300), hollow-pins, slotted sideplate, comes draped like a necklace inside a jewelry case

For 10-speed, SRAM has a new chain called the 1090R which is basically a 10-speed version of the 89R. However, it does not have a reusable link like the PowerLink. Wippermann 10-speed chains are analogous to their 9-speed chains (just replace the leading 9 with a 10). They also have a different 10-speed chain for Shimano (10S0, 10S1) vs Campagnolo drivetrains.

I also don't like the KMC quicklink as it's not reusable.

That's what I thought, too, as I had used KMC's in the past and remembered the old fashioned "master link" type connector that came with them. But I started a thread not long ago asking about the feasibility of using a SRAM Powerlink with a KMC nine-speed chain, and I was surprised to find out the KMC chains now come with a connector link that's basically identical to the SRAM Powerlink. So I ordered a KMC nine speed chain (see my above post), and have been very impressed so far.........My experience with Shimano chains on mtb's is that they wear too quickly; I used to go through a chain about every three months riding off-road. I switched to SRAM a few years ago, and found that they last a little longer in the same conditions-

If long chain life is what is important to you, go for a Rohloff they are about the same price as a stainless Connex, and according to the wrench I go to (ex-pro team mechanic and current national team head wrench) they will last a racer 7000 km!

I wonder about the hardness of the stainless chain. If it is harder than a normal chain, it will be a sprocket grinder and cost you money in the long run (and that would be the "short version" of a long run).

If long chain life is what is important to you, go for a Rohloff they are about the same price as a stainless Connex, and according to the wrench I go to (ex-pro team mechanic and current national team head wrench) they will last a racer 7000 km!

I also heard good things about the Rohloff chains. Did not try them, though, due to budget constrains. If they outlast a Shimano HG-53 4 times, then it would be worth it.

There's no practical reason for a "nice" chain. They all work just as efficiently. The best value in chains are the KMCs at Wal-Mart (but only for 7spd or less). I think they are $6 now and will work just as well as any other chain out there.

For my 9-spd needs, I get the $24 SRAMs because they are the least expensive chain that's commonly in stock. I never have rust problems or drivetrain noise.

The strength of stainless steel is lower than that of the rust-prone steel otherwise used for chains.......Unless you really neglect your chain, the stainless steel ends up as a negative.

That's not correct and you can't generalize. There are dozens of grades and strengths of "stainless steel". Some are much weaker than carbon or Cr-Mo steel and some are as strong or stronger. The proper choice of composition and heat treatment can give whatever level of strength and hardness the manufacturer wants.