Bicycle Mechanics - Triathlon Bars

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View Full Version : Triathlon Bars


Metric Man
11-28-06, 05:38 PM
What is the best set-up for triathlon bars, tape or grips? And do they require new brake levers and shifters, or can I just mount them in the middle? I have a Trek 4300 that I'm going kind of Hybrid with and was wondering which is the best set-up.


bassplayinbiker
11-28-06, 05:50 PM
just curious but why?

A 4300 is a mountain bike, a road bike with drop bars will be more "aero" and give you multiple hand positions.

I never understood the aerobars on the mountain bike thing....

Metric Man
11-28-06, 06:09 PM
just curious but why?

A 4300 is a mountain bike, a road bike with drop bars will be more "aero" and give you multiple hand positions.

I never understood the aerobars on the mountain bike thing....

Buying another bike is not in the budget and this allows me to go back and forth as I need. When I purchased the bike I thought I would like the more upright position but now I'm thinking otherwise. I have bar extensions and like to use them but I'm thinking maybe a little more lean might be good. I also picked up a set of more streetable tires. The 4300 is a great platform to do a lot of things.


bassplayinbiker
11-28-06, 06:21 PM
ok, fair enough.

On tt bars I would tape them. I would recomend profile design century bars because they're cheap, durable and they'll get the job done.

I will warn that your frame geometry will make being in the aero bars somewhat uncomfortable, and the steering will be pretty sketchy.

Metric Man
11-28-06, 06:58 PM
Thanks.

urbanknight
11-28-06, 07:27 PM
Are you talking those full on tri bars or just the clip on aero bar? I recommend the clip on aero bar because you won't need to change anything like the brakes or shifters, and I've seen it done on mountainbikes before. Not sure about the comfort, but some of the people I knew who did it were respectable riders.

Metric Man
11-28-06, 07:34 PM
Are you talking those full on tri bars or just the clip on aero bar? I recommend the clip on aero bar because you won't need to change anything like the brakes or shifters, and I've seen it done on mountainbikes before. Not sure about the comfort, but some of the people I knew who did it were respectable riders.

I was thinking of these...http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/macnkat/Tbar.jpg

But are you talking like this...http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/macnkat/clipon.jpg

Because I think you might be onto something.

bassplayinbiker
11-29-06, 05:13 PM
wow, those are totally diffrent.

uh, those base bars will work just fine on a mountain bike. Sorry, I asumed you meant literally aero bars.

Just to be specific, the base bars is the first picture, the "aero bars" is the bottom picture.

I dont know about the componet compatability. I think you should be able to fit your shifters/ brakes on the base bars.

urbanknight
11-29-06, 05:52 PM
Actually, I thought you were talking about those triangle shaped deals that triathletes used in the 80s where the bar was literally a triangle with curved corners where 2 corners worked as the handle bars and the last corner was the front aero bar.

But yeah, I was suggesting something like what you pictured. I've seen older versions of that on mountainbikes before.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/macnkat/clipon.jpg

Metric Man
11-29-06, 05:54 PM
wow, those are totally diffrent.

uh, those base bars will work just fine on a mountain bike. Sorry, I asumed you meant literally aero bars.

Just to be specific, the base bars is the first picture, the "aero bars" is the bottom picture.

I dont know about the componet compatability. I think you should be able to fit your shifters/ brakes on the base bars.

I thought it would be helpful to post pics. Would these be something to wrap with tape or slip grips to the center?

urbanknight
11-29-06, 06:15 PM
Most road bikers don't tape aero bars since you don't grip them very hard, but I have seen it done before by people who either don't like how cold it feels, or who feel the sweat makes the grip questionable.

fixed.rider
11-29-06, 06:45 PM
The only problem I see w/ changing to that style bar (aka "bullhorn") it that they tend to be road specific as far as diameter goes. Either 26.0mm or 31.8mm. The standard MTB bar is 25.4mm. It should work w/ your stem, but be aware it is a little bigger. The shifters and levers will probably fit too, you just won't tighten them as much. I would buy it w/ a chance to return it if it doesn't work out.

As for the original question, tape them. grips will be difficult to get on.

Finally, why not just put Bar ends onto your current bars. Gets you a similar position for less $$ and hassle?

braingel
11-29-06, 07:47 PM
you could add bar ends and then flip your stem....mine had a positive rise when i got it, and it was way too high so i just flipped it. i'd assume it would work fine on any stem like that...the writing is upside down, but that's about it.

and there are bar ends you can get that curve up instead of in. i don't know what brand mine are though.

urbanknight
11-29-06, 08:37 PM
^ Both good suggestions. I forgot that an mtb bar with bar ends is essentially like bullhorns. Better yet, it's wider so you'll have better leverage for climbing. I agree with the flipped stem as well. As a roadie who went to mtb later, I liked to have my head low and aero anyway, so I always had a flipped stem on my mtb.

Metric Man
11-29-06, 09:09 PM
By "flipped stem" you mean turn it upside down?

braingel
11-29-06, 09:57 PM
yeah...just take the bars off, take off the stem and flip it upside down, then put it all back on. coming from a road bike it's so much nicer...plus, the more rise it had before, the more drop you'll have now. and the bar ends can be set to any height you want, if the actual bars end up really low.

Metric Man
11-29-06, 10:04 PM
Some great ideas, thanks to all.