Bicycle Mechanics - wheel building advice

Building my first wheel... advice?

I've read a few articles online, and should be receiving Brandt's book soon. I'll be building F&R wheels for a fixed gear commuter - 36h front, 32h rear. Kind of weird I know, but that's what was cheap. I plan on radial lacing the front, how about the rear?

I'm thinking you are all going to tell me just to do a standard 3cross for my first wheel, but I thought something like the "32 spoke hybrid crow's foot" listed here:

http://www.geocities.com/spokeanwheel/lacingcf.htm

looked interesting and not too difficult. Opinions?

Mac

I'm thinking you are all going to tell me just to do a standard 3cross for my first wheel,

Your thinking is right on track.

"Search" function.

There are a ba-zillion posts on this topic.

Bob

If you're cool with having to scratch your head a lot more during length calculation and lacing, then go ahead and do a fancy pattern. I expect that the tension&true is not much different/more difficult, and that is the part that matters.
Personally, I'd never undertake all that hassle in order to build an inferior wheel that looks a bit more funky. 3x rear, 3x or 2x front and that's that.

Sheldon Brown has a great page on the subject-I have used it and now built at least 8 wheels.

Just take your time, enjoy the learning experience and remember that you can always undo it and start over.

Do the front wheel first. And if you do lace it radial.. heads on the outside of the flange.

Radial lacing a front wheel was my very first wheel build as it was pretty much a no-brainer...:p
I've used Brandt's book and continue to reference it. Good book.

Some people have issues with crow's foot patterns...

And all else being equal, you'd probably be better off with a non-radial drive-side rear.

Do the front wheel first. And if you do lace it radial.. heads on the outside of the flange.
What's the reason for this? I would think elbows out would be much stronger since the base of your spoke-profile triangle is wider.


For the rear, go 3x. If you want fancy, but useful: radial drive side, 3x non-drive. More even spoke tension that way = stronger wheel

Of course, all this assumes that your hubs are rated for radial lacing -- which requires more material beyond the spoke holes.

For the rear, go 3x. If you want fancy, but useful: radial drive side, 3x non-drive. More even spoke tension that way = stronger wheel


Except he's building a wheel for a fixie, so won't need to worry about dish and uneven drive to non-drive side tension.

Except he's building a wheel for a fixie, so won't need to worry about dish and uneven drive to non-drive side tension.

10-4. I missed that part.