Mountain Biking - I'm so confused now. I need help on purchasing my first MTB.

The past two days I've been riding an '07 Specialized Epic Expert, a $3000 rig. The first day I pretty much hated it. Couldn't get the thing to go. It felt slow, sluggish, and hard to handle. So after the first day I was thinking definitely buying a hardtail. But then I made some minor fit adjustments and got used to the shocks, the handling, and did much better on it. Still wasn't as fast as I'd like to be on some of the uphills and flats but I think some clip-in pedals will make a noticeable difference. I was very thankful for the suspension too on a couple somewhat scary downhills. So after the second day I'm not sure if I really want a hardtail now. Not sure how I would have handled those steep downhills with the rocks, dips, and ruts without the rear suspension.

However, my real dilemma is price! I simply can't afford a $3000 MTB!! :eek: Plus, although the Epic was fun and I know the components are good, there's just no way that bike is worth $3000. And I don't want a $3000 MTB after what I put it through today. At one point we came to a dead end on this "squirrel" trail and there was nowhere to go except over a 6' across, 12' deep ravine or backtracking 5 miles. Well, we ended up having to literally throw our bikes across the ravine! Yikes, I would certainly not do that to a $3000 MTB if it were actually mine. :eek:

So, long story short, I no longer know what to buy. Hardtail? Full suspension XC? Full suspension all mountain? I'm tempted to buy a cheap hardtail from Performance for $350 and just beat the heck out of it. I'm so confused now. :(

Okay, how much do you want to spend? I think for about half of what you were looking at, you would get a really sweet hardtail or a decent full-suspension. I don't remember if you were looking for XC riding or some hucking. If you're looking at XC you can look at the Kona FS bikes. There are several and I don't remember the price-points vs. variants but you should check them out at http://konaworld.com

At one point we came to a dead end on this "squirrel" trail and there was nowhere to go except over a 6' across, 12' deep ravine or backtracking 5 miles. Well, we ended up having to literally throw our bikes across the ravine! Yikes, I would certainly not do that to a $3000 MTB if it were actually mine. :eek:

:(

So you threw someone else's $3000 bike across a ravine... Hmmm, I don't think I want you borrowing my stuff :D

Okay, how much do you want to spend?
As little as possible. :D If I absolutely have to put a price point my limit would be $1000. I'd much rather find something for half that so I wouldn't have to worry about beating it up.


I don't remember if you were looking for XC riding or some hucking.
That's just it, I don't really know. First off, I'm not even sure what hucking is. But on today's ride we did a little bit of everything, I think. There was singletrack, doubltrack, fireroads, tough grueling climbs, scary descents, woops, ruts, rocks, and even no trails at times. To me this sounds like an all mountain bike but an all mountain bike is gonna be heavier than the XC I was riding today. I certainly don't want something heavier. I was having a hard enough time cranking the XC up the hills. On the other hand, I really enjoyed being able to bomb down some rougher steeper hills and letting the suspension do the work of keeping me on the bike.

I just don't know. I loved the hydraulic rear brake and Fox F100 RL front fork seemd to work good. And what's the deal with hydraulic front brakes? Seems like way overkill and unnecessary weight. I just don't know how much I'd miss the "Specialized Fox Brain Fade rear shock" on the downhills. I certainly wouldn't miss the added weight or the flexy power loss from it on the climbs.

I'm thinking I need a light hardtail frame with a rear hydraulic brake and a decent front fork with some cheap front breaks.

Is there a huge difference between hardtails frames? For example, Specialized has a complete bike Hardrock XC for a measly $330. But then they have an S-Works M5 HT, frame only, for $1100. And then again, they have a Stumpjumper Hardtail, complete bike, for $1400. Those are 3 different hardtail frames, all the same frame material I think but yet there's huge differences in price. Why not just buy a GT Avalanche hardtail for $300? How much worse could the ride be on this $300 GT than the $3000 Epic XC I've been riding?

http://www.performancebike.com/product_images/400/30-6884-RED-SIDE.jpg
* GT Triple Triangle Design aluminum frame for increased pedaling efficiency and less road vibration
* 75mm of smooth, plush, front suspension for added control and comfort on the trail
* Dependable Shimano components
* Tektro Disc brakes provide low maintenance, all-weather stopping power

So you threw someone else's $3000 bike across a ravine... Hmmm, I don't think I want you borrowing my stuff :D

Shhhh. :o

erm, if you are planning to spend around $1000, why do you tested a 3k Specialized Epic then? just wondering

Okay, let's talk about drops. How high were your drops? 2' and under, and you're still in XC territory. If you're dropping off of boulders then you are getting into All-mountain territory. What was the rear travel for the bike you rode? Was it 4", 5" or 6"? I'm not familiar with the Specialized line so you'll have to tell me.

However, if your budget is $1000 you are looking at a new hardtail. You can get a decent used full suspension for the same money but let's figure out what kind of riding you intend to do. You mentioned fireroads and climbing so I think you're leaning towards XC.

Don't get hung up on the brakes. For a good entry level price you can use mechanical Avid BB7 brakes that will be fine. Btw, you want the stronger brakes on the front otherwise you're likely skidding and that's a no-no.

As for the Specialized hardtails you referenced. S-works is the race machine. It likely is Scadium. The Hard Rock is a decent entry all-purpose bike (a little urban, a little trail riding, etc.) and is probably regular 7005 aluminum. The Stumpjumper from what I remember is a higher-spec'ed dedicated XC bike.

Well, I wouldn't worry about throwing your bike over a ravine every day. $3k is a ton of coin though. Buying on Craigslist could probably yield you the same or very similar bike to the Epic for half or less. They just don't hold their value due to the fact that they are mtn bikes. Nobody knows what they've been through. But probably 90% of the people that buy them ride them on the road, maybe even pulling a kiddie trailer!

I have both a hardtail and a full sus. I'm thinking of giving away my hardtail.

erm, if you are planning to spend around $1000, why do you tested a 3k Specialized Epic then? just wondering

That was their only demo bike and at first I thought for sure I wanted full suspension.

aww, I see. Kay gotcha, hmm check MTBR for some full sussers at your price range and see what people say bout it

Okay, let's talk about drops. How high were your drops? 2' and under, and you're still in XC territory. If you're dropping off of boulders then you are getting into All-mountain territory. What was the rear travel for the bike you rode? Was it 4", 5" or 6"? I'm not familiar with the Specialized line so you'll have to tell me.
OK, no drops. I certainly don't plan on playing around on boulders and dropping of cliffs. Guess all mountain isn't necessary. The Epic has a unique little 4" suspension thing going on. Pic below.


However, if your budget is $1000 you are looking at a new hardtail. You can get a decent used full suspension for the same money but let's figure out what kind of riding you intend to do. You mentioned fireroads and climbing so I think you're leaning towards XC.
Yea, I think so too. I just don't want to eat shiite on some fast rutted downhill because I have no rear suspension. I just don't know how much different a hardtail would feel on the downhills I did today.


Btw, you want the stronger brakes on the front otherwise you're likely skidding and that's a no-no.
I don't understand this part. The ONLY time I was using the front brake all day was playing around in the parking lot practicing my endos. Those hydraulic disk brakes grab and hold like crazy. That was awesome for the back but pretty much useless for the front.


As for the Specialized hardtails you referenced. S-works is the race machine. It likely is Scadium. The Hard Rock is a decent entry all-purpose bike (a little urban, a little trail riding, etc.) and is probably regular 7005 aluminum. The Stumpjumper from what I remember is a higher-spec'ed dedicated XC bike.
Well, from a road bike background, Scandium is nothing more than hype. 7005-Al and 105 components are just fine. Also, the MTB I buy is pretty much only going to get used in the winter for cross training and when I get bored of riding my roadie.


http://specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/2007/bikes/Epic_Exp_Flo_Red.jpg

OK, no drops. I certainly don't plan on playing around on boulders and dropping of cliffs. Guess all mountain isn't necessary. The Epic has a unique little 4" suspension thing going on. Pic below.

Congratulations, you're a XC rider. A 4" travel bike will suit you well.



Yea, I think so too. I just don't want to eat shiite on some fast rutted downhill because I have no rear suspension. I just don't know how much different a hardtail would feel on the downhills I did today.

On a hardtail your legs are the rear suspension. You stand and absorb the choppiness with your legs. Riding a hardtail as a first mountain bike will also make you a better rider as you'll learn to pick your lines. That being said the hardtail is tougher on the lower back (my personal experience) for extended periods of time as your legs are taking the hits but sending everything up. Perhaps someone with a strong core (lower back, abs) would be fine. I find my hardtail to be fine for normal rides (30km) but I entered a 24-hour race (team of 5) and at the end of the race made the decision to get a full suspension.



I don't understand this part. The ONLY time I was using the front brake all day was playing around in the parking lot practicing my endos. Those hydraulic disk brakes grab and hold like crazy. That was awesome for the back but pretty much useless for the front.

Don't know what to say. I have BB7 brakes so these are not as powerful as some higher-end hydraulics and have never had that problem.



Well, from a road bike background, Scandium is nothing more than hype. 7005-Al and 105 components are just fine. Also, the MTB I buy is pretty much only going to get used in the winter for cross training and when I get bored of riding my roadie.

A given scandium frame is supposedly lighter than its equivalent made out of 7005. It's also going to cost more so definitely stay within the regular aluminum range.

Okay, so you seem to only want to use this bike occasionally and you said you'd prefer spending half of $1000. My calculator tells me that's about $500. For what you're looking at, I think you should go try a hardtail like a Trek 4300, Gary Fisher Marlin, Kona Cinder Cone or Specialized Hard Rock. See if your budget can take include the Specialized Rockhopper hardtail as I think that may be a good fit for you. Find a LBS that carries these lines and try test rides so see how they feel.

have you been HERE (http://forums.mtbr.com/) looking for info? if not, i highly recommend it! there a LOT good info there! just dig in and start reading!

as for your dilema..... i had/have the hardrock and had a BLAST on it.... however i just got the new stumpy FSR expert (i, personally didn't care for the epic).... i wanted the brain of the expert so chose that over the comp!

you may just want to get the cheap $300 bike for now... put it through it's paces... enjoy it... not worry if you have to throw it! lol!

then down the road if you think you want or need and FSR... then get one...

HOWEVER.... knowing you have back problems... you'll probably benefit from the FSR... however you can't go too cheaply on an FSR... i wouldn't go lower than the comp (which is a VERY popular bike!)

good luck on your search and check out MTBR, if you already haven't!

p.s. just saw someone else recommended MTBR!

also... i LOVE my BB7 hydraulics!!!?????? MUCH better than the V breaks, IMO!

So you threw someone else's $3000 bike across a ravine... Hmmm, I don't think I want you borrowing my stuff :D

Exactly what I thought. If I borrow gear, I take better care of it than I would my own.

Still wasn't as fast as I'd like to be on some of the uphills and flats but I think some clip-in pedals will make a noticeable difference. I was very thankful for the suspension too on a couple somewhat scary downhills. So after the second day I'm not sure if I really want a hardtail now. Not sure how I would have handled those steep downhills with the rocks, dips, and ruts without the rear suspension.

However, my real dilemma is price! I simply can't afford a $3000 MTB!! Well, we ended up having to literally throw our bikes across the ravine! Yikes, I would certainly not do that to a $3000 MTB if it were actually mine. :eek:

So, long story short, I no longer know what to buy. Hardtail? Full suspension XC? Full suspension all mountain? I'm tempted to buy a cheap hardtail from Performance for $350 and just beat the heck out of it. I'm so confused now. :(


Buy a real cheap bike until you are able to backtrack those 5-miles. I'd never throw my bike no matter what.

If you want speed, stay away from all-mountain bikes which generally weigh too much. Go to a XC bike. I saw a nice Specialized FSR type in a bike shop recently for about $1200. You can upgrade as parts wear out or as needed. My FSR started out as a $1600 list bike (bought for roughly $1300), but I've got a total of $2500 plus in it in three years. It weighs very close to 28 lbs and that's without super light tires.

Hardtail or not, you should be off the seat on fast downhills. Hard tails do just fine except for the seated comfort factor and wheel-hop on technical climbs.

Al

the one thing that im worried about XC bikes nowadays are the durability of the frame :D

If you thought the Epic was flexy and power robbing on the climbs, you probably will want to stay with a hardtail

Exactly what I thought. If I borrow gear, I take better care of it than I would my own.

OK, I think I need to clarify a bit. There was a big bush on the other side of the ravine where the bikes landed quite softly. It sounds worse than it actually was. However, I don't think I would have thrown the bike if it were actually mine and I had paid $3000 for it. I probably would have backtracked and ended up passing out and dying with my $3000 bike. :D

You also need to understand my mindset at the time of the ravine throw. I was 3 hours into a ride, completely exhausted from spending the last hour trying to climb out of this gully on a squirrel trail. And to top it off my chain had already broke earlier in the day. What's up with that crap? A $3000 bike and the chain snaps? Plus, before I even got out on the trail I had to realign the front disc brake because it was rubbing and howling like a banshee and the FD was all out of whack. The bike shop gave me a bike that obviously was in need of a tune up.

erm, did you remove the wheel and put it back? And what kind of discs are you using?. Hmm, I know there is a rider in my group and her chain broke on the first day ride. Not her day though. And you got to test ride the 3k epic? I guess maybe the shop has lent it too many riders and dont bother to tune it up.

erm, did you remove the wheel and put it back? And what kind of discs are you using?. Hmm, I know there is a rider in my group and her chain broke on the first day ride. Not her day though. And you got to test ride the 3k epic? I guess maybe the shop has lent it too many riders and dont bother to tune it up.

The Epic has an Avid Juicy 7 hydraulic disc with 180mm rotor. Didn't need to remove the wheel. Just loosened up the caliper and slid it over a hair and retightened.

also... i LOVE my BB7 hydraulics!!!?????? MUCH better than the V breaks, IMO!

BB7's are not hydraulic brakes. They're mechanical.

OP, if your budget weren't limited to $1,000, I'd say you're a perfect candidate for a Specialized Epic or FSR XC. The FSR XC is closer to your budget, though. Get yourself the best hardtail you can find for your budget. You won't be disappointed. If you go low-end, you'll end up spending a bunch of cash switching to a 9-speed drivetrain and nicer wheels, fork, and brakes. Might as well do it right the first time. If you can stretch your budget a bit, the Stumpjumper is a great value for a fast XC hardtail.

If you can stretch your budget a bit, the Stumpjumper is a great value for a fast XC hardtail.

I'm currently eying this one:
http://specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/2007/bikes/SJ_HT_HT_Yellow.jpg

It retails for $1400 but I can get it for a lot less.

BB7's are not hydraulic brakes. They're mechanical.

OP, if your budget weren't limited to $1,000, I'd say you're a perfect candidate for a Specialized Epic or FSR XC. The FSR XC is closer to your budget, though. Get yourself the best hardtail you can find for your budget. You won't be disappointed. If you go low-end, you'll end up spending a bunch of cash switching to a 9-speed drivetrain and nicer wheels, fork, and brakes. Might as well do it right the first time. If you can stretch your budget a bit, the Stumpjumper is a great value for a fast XC hardtail.

hmmmmmmm i guess specialized has a typo on their site then..... according to them my 2007 stumpy expert has jucy 7 hydrulics.... (i guess i called them BB and should have said avid?)


FRONT BRAKE Avid Juicy 7, hydraulic disc, G2 Clean Sweep S/M: 185mm rotor, L/XL: 200mm rotor

REAR BRAKE Avid Juicy 7, hydraulic disc, G2 Clean Sweep S/M: 160mm rotor, L/XL: 185mm rotor

hmmmmmmm i guess specialized has a typo on their site then..... according to them my 2007 stumpy expert has jucy 7 hydrulics.... (i guess i called them BB and should have said avid?)

Avid BB7 are mechanical brakes.
Avid Juicy 7 are hydraulic brakes.

You have Juicy 7s so you have hydraulic brakes.

I'm currently eying this one:
http://specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/2007/bikes/SJ_HT_HT_Yellow.jpg

It retails for $1400 but I can get it for a lot less.

Test ride it to see how you like it but it would be a good choice.

hmmmmmmm i guess specialized has a typo on their site then..... according to them my 2007 stumpy expert has jucy 7 hydrulics.... (i guess i called them BB and should have said avid?)

No, Specialized is correct. You said that you love your BB7 Hydraulics. The 'BB' in BB7 stands for ball bearing, denoting them as their mechanical disc brake just as 'Juicy' denotes those models as hydraulic actuation. I'm not certain which model of Avid disc brake you have, but BB7's are mechanical.

TCR, that Stumpjumper looks sweet. If you want disc brakes down the road, it looks like those hubs are disc compatable. If that's the case, you wouldn't need to change any of your components out to upgrade. BTW, you can get 2006 Juicy 7's from Price Point right now for $150 a side (the same price difference as the Juicy 5 upgrade that the Stumpy Comp gives you). Either way, if the Stumpy fits your budget, it looks like a winner. Just make sure you give it a test spin before you open the wallet.

TCR: A couple of things here...your front brake is 75-80% of your braking power. If you're bombing down a gnarly hill using your rear brake only...you will likely slow down a little bit, but your rear tire will begin to skid because your weight shifts forward. Most of your weight will be on the front wheel. In the same situation, apply pressure to the front brake and you will slow down MUCH faster. The more pressure on the front brake, the more you need to lean back so you don't fly over the bars. Beginners will over-use the rear brake until one day it clicks and they realized that they have been sliding the rear tire in hope they'd stop when all the while they could use the front and stop on a dime with those Avid Juicy 7's.

If I only had 1 brake, it would be the front.



Second: In the pricerange you're looking at, I'd go for a nice hardtail. Steer clear of the Hardrock. It's a little heavy and clunky for your purposes. The Rockhopper is slightly better in the weight area, but a Stumpjumper Hardtail would suit your needs very well. Nice and light for your XC style.

The Epic would be great for ya, but you can't afford a new one and it sounds like you don't know a whole lot about MTB's yet so I'd buy a good NEW bike with a warranty and a service plan instead of a used dually.

Incidentally, MTB's are pretty tough. You can throw them across gullys with no problem as long as they don't land on pavement. They will still fare fine...they'll just get scratched up a bit. It's not a road bike. They're not made to be fragile. Just don't take your Stumpjumper Hardtail and drop off a 4' ledge to flat repeatedly unless there's no rider on it, hehe.

Have you looked at the Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo? http://fisherbikes.com/bikes/bike_detail.asp?series=genesis&bike=HKEK

It's in your pricerange and would suit you nicely as well. I really do love the "Genesis Geometry" for the climbs. It gives you more traction so you can stand up and really "honk" on the pedals. I have a 2005 and love it.


Most of your major manufacturers will give you a lifetime warranty on their hardtail frames.


Oh yeah...if you're worried about those "nasty downhills"...buy a set of tubless 2.3'ish inch tires with an aggressive tread pattern like the Kenda Nevegal or Blue Groove and run slightly lower pressures. They will give you confidence, control, and a little more cushion. Fatter tires do weigh a little more, but the benefits outweigh the drawbacks IMO.

Good luck!

TCR, that Stumpjumper looks sweet. If you want disc brakes down the road, it looks like those hubs are disc compatable. If that's the case, you wouldn't need to change any of your components out to upgrade. BTW, you can get 2006 Juicy 7's from Price Point right now for $150 a side (the same price difference as the Juicy 5 upgrade that the Stumpy Comp gives you). Either way, if the Stumpy fits your budget, it looks like a winner. Just make sure you give it a test spin before you open the wallet.

That's exactly what I was thinking and I saw those Juicy 7's at PP also. Slap those on the rear and I'd be good to go, I think.

TCR: A couple of things here...your front brake is 75-80% of your braking power. If you're bombing down a gnarly hill using your rear brake only...you will likely slow down a little bit, but your rear tire will begin to skid because your weight shifts forward. Most of your weight will be on the front wheel. In the same situation, apply pressure to the front brake and you will slow down MUCH faster. The more pressure on the front brake, the more you need to lean back so you don't fly over the bars. Beginners will over-use the rear brake until one day it clicks and they realized that they have been sliding the rear tire in hope they'd stop when all the while they could use the front and stop on a dime with those Avid Juicy 7's.

If I only had 1 brake, it would be the front.

I'll have to take your word for it since I'm a total newb at this but my whole 2 days of riding experience is screaming the opposite. I can't imagine even tapping that front brake on steep downhills. :eek:

I'll have to take your word for it since I'm a total newb at this but my whole 2 days of riding experience is screaming the opposite. I can't imagine even tapping that front brake on steep downhills. :eek:

In the beginning, I was a total chickensh!t and rode the brakes a lot. With time you learn to loosen up, use less brake and avoid the grip of death. Were you perhaps in the same situation?

I'll have to take your word for it since I'm a total newb at this but my whole 2 days of riding experience is screaming the opposite. I can't imagine even tapping that front brake on steep downhills. :eek:

As others have said, the front brake really does the majority of the work. I know it's initially counterintuitive, but if you have your weight correctly positioned over the bike, you won't endo. It just takes practice getting used to it, but you'll stop much faster with less damage to the trails using more front brake.

If you're doing a steep downhill and rely mostly on the rear brake, you'll quickly be skidding your way down the trail in a less than controlled manner. On loose stuff, or when you're dropping off ledges, you may need to get more on the back brake for a moment so when your front tire re-contacts the trail, it isn't locked up. Beyond that, the front brake offers significantly more power. Here's some more beta on this. http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html Also, if you're a car guy, think about the brakes on most all cars. The front rotor is nearly always larger than the rear.

I'm thinking I need a light hardtail frame with a rear hydraulic brake and a decent front fork with some cheap front breaks.



i would say on the contrary, you'd want to nicer brakes in front and you can run what ever in the rear. Front takes the brunt of the braking work. I think what you're imagining is squeezing them and flying over the bars. If you use them correct, shift your wiehgt, apply enough force (but not too much) you're gonna fly to a halt, seriously if you still have that bike go out and mess around using only the front brake, you'll be suprised at what you find ( i think)

Yea, it's a no brainer that the front brake supplies the most stopping power but I don't see how that can be beneficial on a steep downhill without washing out the front end or performing a Superman :eek: . But then again I never tried using the front break on a downhill, perhaps feathering would work. The results of applying too much would be disastrous!

Yea, it's a no brainer that the front brake supplies the most stopping power but I don't see how that can be beneficial on a steep downhill without washing out the front end or performing a Superman :eek: . But then again I never tried using the front break on a downhill, perhaps feathering would work. The results of applying too much would be disastrous!
Not really, Going over the bars is something we all do, have done , and will do again!

Yea, it's a no brainer that the front brake supplies the most stopping power but I don't see how that can be beneficial on a steep downhill without washing out the front end or performing a Superman :eek: . But then again I never tried using the front break on a downhill, perhaps feathering would work. The results of applying too much would be disastrous!

Brakes are not binary. Also, on a steep downhill, and I mean really steep, your saddle should be lowered from the regular XC height and you should be putting your weight behind the saddle to keep you from going endo.

Not really, Going over the bars is something we all do, have done , and will do again!

As I wrote in another thread - There are two types of mountain bikers: Those who have endo'ed and those who will.

I think your roadie background is making you a little timid about mtn bikes. Did the bike break when you threw it across a ravine? No, because it is designed to take that abuse. Stop being such a sissy and buy a decent bike, ride it, and don't worry about breaking it. You will never have any fun on a mtn bike if youre constantly obsessing about hurting it or getting it dirty.

As I wrote in another thread - There are two types of mountain bikers: Those who have endo'ed and those who will.
Amen!

You just need to learn how to modulate the front brake. Check out the link I posted above. Keep your weight back and modulate. If it's really sketchy, you're better off getting off the brakes entirely and letting it flow until you get to a piece of solid ground. Honestly, when it's super steep, you will be shifting more braking from the front to the back. 90% of the time, you'll be relying more on your front to handle the majority of the force, though. It's not in our best interest for you to be taking headers, so just try what we're suggesting and see for yourself.

You just need to learn how to modulate the front brake. Check out the link I posted above. Keep your weight back and modulate. If it's really sketchy, you're better off getting off the brakes entirely and letting it flow until you get to a piece of solid ground. Honestly, when it's super steep, you will be shifting more braking from the front to the back. 90% of the time, you'll be relying more on your front to handle the majority of the force, though. It's not in our best interest for you to be taking headers, so just try what we're suggesting and see for yourself.

Good article. I can see why some people run moto.

I think your roadie background is making you a little timid about mtn bikes. Did the bike break when you threw it across a ravine? No, because it is designed to take that abuse. Stop being such a sissy and buy a decent bike, ride it, and don't worry about breaking it. You will never have any fun on a mtn bike if youre constantly obsessing about hurting it or getting it dirty.

It's no so much the bike I'm worried about breaking. I've crashed on MX bikes at high speed many a times and I don't remember many of them being fun.

You don't stay off the road bike for fear of being bitten by dog's or getting hit by cars, you can't let the worry of falling keep you off the trail either

It's no so much the bike I'm worried about breaking. I've crashed on MX bikes at high speed many a times and I don't remember many of them being fun.

You've mentioned that the front end was washing out. That means you were locking the front brake. You have to learn to modulate it better. Also, the behind-the-saddle technique will help with keeping you balanced and on the bike.

It's all a question of practise.

think of it as a necessary evil, it'll always be looming and it'll jump on you as soon as you EFF something up. We've all had our fair share of crashes. They happen; get up, brush off, ride again

think of it as a necessary evil, it'll always be looming and it'll jump on you as soon as you EFF something up. We've all had our fair share of crashes. They happen; get up, brush off, ride again


I almost broke my leg on a tree thanks to too much front brake, you live, you learn. Now i know not to use sooo much front brake

think of it as a necessary evil, it'll always be looming and it'll jump on you as soon as you EFF something up. We've all had our fair share of crashes. They happen; get up, brush off, ride again

We need to show him MX's video. It's great how he gets up and walks it off.

We need to show him MX's video. It's great how he gets up and walks it off.

and brushes his hands off for good measure :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

We need to show him MX's video. It's great how he gets up and walks it off.

I wanna see. I wanna see. :)

I wanna see. I wanna see. :)

I can't find the direct link to the video but if you go to his MySpace page, it's right on the front.
http://www.myspace.com/mx_599