Touring - Help me build the ideal Long Haul Trucker

I just bought my frame and fork, a blue Surly LHT, size 56. I also got a Chris King Headset(always wanted one :) )
I got a red headset, but I'm going to return it for a Black one, my theme is going to be Black and Blue.

Now I need help with the rest please :)

Hubs-I know the back is 135mm, but what is the front?
Should I go 36 hole front and rear? I'm a clyde at 240 lbs and the bike will be fully loaded.
What are the best quality for the money? I can't afford Chris King, DT Swiss or any other high end hubs. Is Shimano XT a good bet?

For rims I have decided on the DT Swiss TK 7.1 Trekking rims with 14 gauge DT Swiss spokes and Blue Alloy DT Swiss Nipples. I'll be using black spokes and would prefer a black hub, but not sure which hubset to get.

Cassette-Should I run an 11-32 or an 11-34?

Cranks-I want somethign strong, probably a mountain bike crankset, but here's where I am a little confused.
On the Surly website for the LHT LINK HERE (http://www.surlybikes.com/longhaul.html) it states crankset clearance is 42/53t double, 38/52/56t triple, does that mean 38 is the lowest I can go? That doesn't sound right?

What would be the strongest cranks available? Again, I weigh 240 lbs. I was considering the Shimano XT or saint MTB cranksets. I don't mind spending a little bit of money here to get the strongest I can. Please give several options if available. I want to do this right the first time.

What chainrings and cassette gearing should I get?

Brifters-I don't want bar end shifters, I know they are more reliable, but I just don't like the idea of taking my hands off the bars to shift. What are a reliable set of STI's? What's the best for the money?

Derailleur's- I'll be using a Shimano LX up front. Should I go with the LX in the rear too or is the XT worth the extra money?

Thanks for taking the time to help me through this.

38 is the BIGGEST you can go in the inner ring position while running a triple.

you'll do just fine with however you go about building it up. i'd go with a touring triple from Sugino or Shimano. 24 as the small ring if you're going to be riding loaded.

Oh I see, cool, thanks. What about the rear cassete if I go with a 24 on the smallest chainring up front?

I remember seeing a link with ideal parts for the LHT, I think it was on Tulios website but I can't seem to find it, anyone know the link?

Are the front hubs 135mm too?

Edit: Found Tulios Blog

http://tullios.blogspot.com/2006/05/suggested-touring-bicycle-component.html

I endorse Tullio's recommendation for the SON dynamo hub and Lumotec lights. Expensive initial outlay but great utility.

I didn't like the idea of bar ends either,so I fitted downtube shifters on Kelly take-offs. I'm getting more used to shifting routines with them. Get a low-normal derailleur for this option. The shifting direction on the right lever is more convenient and feels more intuitively correct.

Downtube shifters would be even worse for me lol. I don't want to have to take my hands off the regular positions to shift.

I'm assuming the front hub is 100mm is this correct? Is that pretty much the standard?

the thing with bar ends is you DON'T have to take your hands off the bars. you can keep a good grip on the bar end while shifting in the palm of your hand and also shift while riding one handed.

I think ebi might be talking about a setup with levers and thumbie adaptors for a flat bar?

I'd try some barend shifters on a test bike if possible, because they ARE a better way to go in many tourer's opinion. I find they even satisfy my racer urges by letting me shift across the cogs very quickly while set in friction mode.

I am far from a good source to take my comments with a grain of salt. I am a mountain biker that is getting into road riding and have no, absolutely NO, touring experience. I AM a casual observer and would love to do some touring in the future but see little hope of ever doing it anytime soon.

That being said...
Hubs:
I would go with a Phil Wood rear hub but you are on a budget, so I would go with the Shimano XT hub because it is serviceable in remote places with limited parts. Front hub I would get the set up with dual lights. Due to my limited experience with touring I don't know the manufactures names.

Cranks:
I would be leery of the newer bottom brackets for your application. Look for a cheaper older square taper. I also would go with something sealed, though there is value in uber simple loose ball in areas where replacement parts are hard to find. KISS is the mantra, Keep It Simple Stupid.

Chainrings:
22x32x44 Shimano or Race Face

Derailleur:
LX front, XT Rear Long Cage

Cassette:
LX 11x34

Shifters:
I second the idea of downtube shifter, but given your desire to not take your hands of the bars I would go with 105 bifters with Cane Creek crosstop brake levers (http://www.canecreek.com/crosstop_lvr.html).

Handlebars:
On One Midge (http://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=7&MMN_position=7:7) or the On One Mungo (http://www.on-one.co.uk/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=9&MMN_position=6:6) better ergonomics with various hand placement options.

Stem:
Not really sure about this one but I would think one of those adjustable stems would be wise? Never know what type of position you will be able to ride in when the going get tough or vertical.

don't do alloy nipples, use brass. the alloy ones round too easily especially as they get older.

double butted spoke build a longer laster wheel as the thinner butted section spreads the stress out over the length of the spoke. not a great explanation but you can find the answers somewhere here on bf land.

all front wheels are 100mm.

gearing depends on where you are going. most road triples are 30-42-53 or 30-39-53. mountain cranks are 44-32-22 or similar. shimano sells a trekking crankset that is 26-36-48. that makes a lot of sense to me. and you could always go with a smaller inner ring if necessary.

as for the rest of the parts, it really depends on where you are going. if you're going around the world i would keep it simple and basic and low tech. but if you're doing shorter, local tours in more populated areas there's not much of a problem in using sti shifters and such

Thanks alot for the replies!

I'll definitely use brass nipples and double butted spokes.

Are the CR18's or the Velocity Dyad's better than the DT TK7.1?

I want a really strong wheel set. I'll definitely go with the Shimano XT hubs, 36 hole is best right?

For gearing I'm planning a year long US tour, using ACA's Southern Tier, Atlantic Coast, TransAmerica and then back down the Pacific coast. What would you suggest considering the bike will be loaded?

What is the Shimano Trekking crankset called? Will the Regular XT Mountain bike crankset be a good choice?

Thanks alot for the replies!

I'll definitely use brass nipples and double butted spokes.

Are the CR18's or the Velocity Dyad's better than the DT TK7.1?

I want a really strong wheel set. I'll definitely go with the Shimano XT hubs, 36 hole is best right?

For gearing I'm planning a year long US tour, using ACA's Southern Tier, Atlantic Coast, TransAmerica and then back down the Pacific coast. What would you suggest considering the bike will be loaded?

What is the Shimano Trekking crankset called? Will the Regular XT Mountain bike crankset be a good choice?

The crankset is FC-581. It's an LX crankset. I have two of them and am very happy. The seals on the BB are excellent.

shimano sells a trekking crankset that is 26-36-48. that makes a lot of sense to me

Yeah, this gearing on my Cannondale with a 11-34 on the back is just fantastic. Can pedal up to 55km/h (and who cares after that), can pedal up a wall.

If you go really heavy eg. unsupported desert rides you may need lower gearing for all of your water and supplies.


but given your desire to not take your hands of the bars I would go with 105 bifters with Cane Creek crosstop brake levers.

I have STIs (only) on my tourer and old fashioned brake levers accessable from both drops and tops on my commuter. The extra levers are really handy when starting out at low speed in traffic, but I really don't miss them when touring. My STIs got mashed crashing into an iPod-enabled duffus on a bike path (the first time I took a long ride on the bike :( ) and I get nervous and pad them in meters of bubble wrap whenever I put the bike on a truck or in a bike box.

The STIs are really, really convenient, though.

Thanks alot for the replies!

I'll definitely use brass nipples and double butted spokes.

Are the CR18's or the Velocity Dyad's better than the DT TK7.1?

I want a really strong wheel set. I'll definitely go with the Shimano XT hubs, 36 hole is best right?

For gearing I'm planning a year long US tour, using ACA's Southern Tier, Atlantic Coast, TransAmerica and then back down the Pacific coast. What would you suggest considering the bike will be loaded?

What is the Shimano Trekking crankset called? Will the Regular XT Mountain bike crankset be a good choice?

Velocity Dyads are rated as a Tandem rim so thay are a good choice for loaded touring:)

Probably the best bet for a good selection of gears is to use a 12 -34 XT 9 Speed casette mated with a Sugino XD 600 with 24-36-46, this gives a good spread, especially in the mountains;)

and a Brooks saddle, of course. :D

Thanks alot for the replies!

Are the CR18's or the Velocity Dyad's better than the DT TK7.1?

I want a really strong wheel set. I'll definitely go with the Shimano XT hubs, 36 hole is best right?




Cr18 or the Dyad are both excellent and popular touring or tandem rims, if you want to go stronger than that look for Sun Rhyno Lites in 700c. A lot of us use the Rhyno 26" version on our trekking bike and they are very durable. You cannot use a tire narrower than 32mm on a Rhyno.

I have XT hubs that are nearly 18 years old now and they still roll smooth. 36 spokes will be fine.

I've used several Mavic varieties, Rhyno Lite 700c rims and also Dyads and while the latter two are the stoutest, I think the Dyads stay true longer than the Rhynos. But the rhynolites might be a tougher rim. They are certainely wider. and heavier.

Robert in CA, the downtube shifters are placed near the hoods. Like so.
http://static.flickr.com/105/252416659_4a5f3e15fd_o.jpg

I've used several Mavic varieties, Rhyno Lite 700c rims and also Dyads and while the latter two are the stoutest, I think the Dyads stay true longer than the Rhynos. But the rhynolites might be a tougher rim. They are certainely wider. and heavier.

I haven't built a wheel yet with the Dyad. My experince with the Rhynolites has been if they ain't straight before you lace them up they won't stay straight when you true them. The rim is almost too stiff to true.

Here is my LHT build. It should be ready tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Frame: Surly LHT (duh) 56cm, Utility Blue
Bars: Nitto Noodle 44cm
Brakes: Shimano BR550
Levers: Cane Creek
Shifters: Dura-Ace Down Tube Shifters
Headset: Chris King, Silver
Stem: Nitto UI-5GX silver
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra
Cassette: Shimano 12-27 9speed
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN-73
Cranks: Sugino XD600 48/36/26
Wheels: Hubs Shimano XT 36h, Rims Mavic A719
Tires: Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35
Post: Ultegra polished
Saddle: Brooks Champion Flyer
Saddle bag: Frost River Echo (a.k.a. Baggins Banana)
Bar Tape: Tressostar Dark Brown Cloth over 1 layer of cork
Bell: Japanese Brass bell mounted to 1cm spacer from Velo Orange.

Thanks alot for the replies!

I'll definitely use brass nipples and double butted spokes.

Are the CR18's or the Velocity Dyad's better than the DT TK7.1?

I want a really strong wheel set. I'll definitely go with the Shimano XT hubs, 36 hole is best right?

For gearing I'm planning a year long US tour, using ACA's Southern Tier, Atlantic Coast, TransAmerica and then back down the Pacific coast. What would you suggest considering the bike will be loaded?

What is the Shimano Trekking crankset called? Will the Regular XT Mountain bike crankset be a good choice?


A better spoke choice would be DT Alpine III, especially for us large guys. Instead of being 2.0mm/1.8mm/2.0mm, they are 2.3/1.8/2.0. This makes them thicker at the hub and less likely to break. I've been using a wheel built with them on my mountain bike for over 5 years without spoke breakage. I've built 2 other sets from my touring bike and commuting bike but haven't used them as long.

An XT mountain bike crankset, or even an LX, would be an excellent choice. It doesn't give you as high gear range as some of the more road oriented cranks but it gives you a much lower low gear, which you'll need in the mountains of the east and the west. Depending on the crank, you might be able to find a 46 tooth chainring to give you a nicer high gear.. I might even go so far as to put on an integrated crankset. Setup, adjustment and repair of these sets are very simple and requires far fewer tools than 3 piece sets. They are more expensive - slightly - but less futzy.

Here's mine:

Components:
2006 Surly 62 cm steel bike frame
Shimano Ultegra long cage
SRAM 12 – 28 8-speed rear cassette
Deore XT 50 / 36 front derailleur
Shimano 8 / 9 bar end shifters
Z chain
Truvativ touring cranks 175 mm.
Shimano MB 2200 wheel set with 32-spoke wheels
Armadillo 700 cc 35 mm tires
Origin 8 carbon seatpost
Origin 8 flat top road handlebar
Pyramid clipless / flat pedals
Tektro brakes

I have NOT taken this bike touring but regularly cyclocommute with 25+lbs on rear OMM rack and Arkel Commuter pannier. I'm 6'5", 220 lbs. Maybe I'll be pushing the weight limits on rims/wheels when we credit-card tour next summer but I'll risk it...my investment in this bike is under $ 1500.

good luck on your build-out: I love my LHT!

Brian and Centex do you guys have pictures of your bikes on the web? If you don't
want to post them would you mind PM'ing me?

Thanks!

A better spoke choice would be DT Alpine III, especially for us large guys. Instead of being 2.0mm/1.8mm/2.0mm, they are 2.3/1.8/2.0. This makes them thicker at the hub and less likely to break. I've been using a wheel built with them on my mountain bike for over 5 years without spoke breakage. I've built 2 other sets from my touring bike and commuting bike but haven't used them as long.

An XT mountain bike crankset, or even an LX, would be an excellent choice. It doesn't give you as high gear range as some of the more road oriented cranks but it gives you a much lower low gear, which you'll need in the mountains of the east and the west. Depending on the crank, you might be able to find a 46 tooth chainring to give you a nicer high gear.. I might even go so far as to put on an integrated crankset. Setup, adjustment and repair of these sets are very simple and requires far fewer tools than 3 piece sets. They are more expensive - slightly - but less futzy.


Thanks for the advice, I will do just as you recommend and get the Alpine III. I'll use brass nipples too.

I'm going to go with the XT crankset with integrated bottom bracket.

Robert in CA, the downtube shifters are placed near the hoods. Like so.
http://static.flickr.com/105/252416659_4a5f3e15fd_o.jpg

Oh I see, that looks like a great setup. Thanks for the pic! When you're on the hoops, do they get in the way of the brake lever? Do you have a source for these?

I'll ask my LBS if they can get those.

No, they are well out of the way of the brakes from the drops and the hoods (not sure which you meant by hoops).

The last I saw, Kelly was going out of business but they were still selling take-offs that they had in stock.

As of 10/22/06, they still had 375 in stock.

http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

for a better look.

If you are going to use your bike for more than touring, you will want a 48 up front. I changed the crank and rear cassette on my Trek 520 to a 48/36/24 crank and an 12-34 cassette. I have been using the bike commuting and running errands with rear panniers loaded with 40 pounds of gear. I weigh 230 and I usually run 48/12 on the flats.

I wouldn't base my touring gearing on how the bike rides unloaded, chainging a chain ring can be a cheap and easy transition. Get the right gears for the conditions you expect to encounter and your own strengths. Most of your time will not be spent at high speeds so you need to consider the exileration factor for the odd perfect downhill run to the efficiency of more compact geraing. If you are going 9 speed the best cassette going is the 14-34, assuming you want the granny. Combine that with the right chainrings, say 46-36-26 or a half step set-up, and you have some dense gering. Remember the 700C touring wheel is large in diameter by one inch than the racing 700c an has higher rolling resistance. SO there are feww situations where the high end is needed, better to have more useable gears in a modest range.

For the ideal wheel, the 719s are probably the best rim these days. Spendy, which has moved up a bunch of lessor rims that also work great. Silver rims seem to have the functional advantage if you can find them.

The best cheap hubs are probably the Phil 7 speed, with the right freewheel you can get the same gears as on the average 9 speed these days just loosing the upper end you won't need. These can be found for a littel over 200, and you can get a lot of options in the number of spokes that make sense for heavier riders, hough a well built wheels is all you really need. However, who is going to take 7 speed freewheel advice.

I think LX is the next best deal out there, I have an XT hub and it looks a little more conventional, though the system appears identical. Disassemble and re-lube the shimano stuff. I have received some that was damaged, and then booted up where you couldn't see the problems past the rubber boots.

Right now DT may be the best for a combination of looks, durability, cost, and options. But it runs near to 400 a pair.

I would check out the Sugino XD 600 crank, classic touring choice right now. It's for the prefered 8 speed system, you can buy the parts and build your own crank with specially set up rings.

you need to consider the exileration factor for the odd perfect downhill run to the efficiency of more compact geraing

This is a great point - I used to often feel either just too high or too low with my wide cassette. Commuting fixed has given me much greater tolerance for variations in cadence, but it used to really bother me, especially into a headwind.

Brian and Centex do you guys have pictures of your bikes on the web? If you don't
want to post them would you mind PM'ing me?

Thanks!



I will be picking my bike up today. I will take probably a thousands pics tonight and I will post some.

Here is my LHT build. It should be ready tomorrow. Hope this helps.

Frame: Surly LHT (duh) 56cm, Utility Blue
Bars: Nitto Noodle 44cm
Brakes: Shimano BR550
Levers: Cane Creek
Shifters: Dura-Ace Down Tube Shifters
Headset: Chris King, Silver
Stem: Nitto UI-5GX silver
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra
Cassette: Shimano 12-27 9speed
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN-73
Cranks: Sugino XD600 48/36/26
Wheels: Hubs Shimano XT 36h, Rims Mavic A719
Tires: Panaracer Pasela TG 700x35
Post: Ultegra polished
Saddle: Brooks Champion Flyer
Saddle bag: Frost River Echo (a.k.a. Baggins Banana)
Bar Tape: Tressostar Dark Brown Cloth over 1 layer of cork
Bell: Japanese Brass bell mounted to 1cm spacer from Velo Orange.

How does that sugino work with the 9 speed drive train?

How does that sugino work with the 9 speed drive train?

Perfect.

Robert,

If you haven't purchased your crank yet, here's a crank (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=81&subcategory=1031&brand=&sku=17945&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20ATB%20Cranks) that might be the best crank around. The gears are a good range and, from what I've read on the Shimano website, you should be able to put a much lower gear on it then what it comes with.

Front hub is 100mm. Go with 36 spoke. XT hubs are fine. Use the XT disk hubs with the center lock rotors and you will have a versatile set of wheels. XT hubs come in black and silver. Play it safe go with 11-32 9 speed cassette. XT cranks are expensive. Deore cranks use splined BB and come in black and silver. Go with 44/32/22. Tiagra are the cheapest 9 speed STI shifters. They're great. Deore derailleurs are good enough.

Thanks for the advice, I will do just as you recommend and get the Alpine III. I'll use brass nipples too.

I'm going to go with the XT crankset with integrated bottom bracket.

Important note: You can't clip those Alpine III spokes, they must be the exact size to begin with. Therefore, dial in your hubs and your rims before purchasing your spokes.

I personally think that DT 7.1 trekking rim is one of the most bombproof rims out there, you can't go wrong there.

Hey,

my suggestion would be to not worry so much about colour schemes as you are building up a touring bike. A bike for touring. Traveling and getting dirty.

Unless you're planning to hang it on the wall.

I've been looking at that one for my build though I had decided against it for a variety of reasons. It's not a bad choice really, Wouldn't fit my bottom bracket, but then they have those fairly cheap also.

BY the way, I know folks want to have fun so here is the MPH chart for a 700c 32mm wheeled bike with Cyclo's 48/36/26 crank and an 11-34 mega range on it - Thanks to SHELDON.

Top speed at 100 rpm is 35 mph. So as far as I can see you guys and your big cranks doing 55mph all over the place are really spinning some impressive numbers! :)

MPH
19.0 26.3 35.1
16.1 22.2 29.7
13.9 19.3 25.7
12.3 17.0 22.7
10.4 14.5 19.3
9.1 12.6 16.8
8.0 11.1 14.8
7.0 9.6 12.9
6.1 8.5 11.3

i wouldn't listen too much to the suggestion from someone reccomending a 7 speed freewheel setup for your touring bike.

additionally, the Mavic 719 is a single hollow rim, but the 319s are tripple hollow for greater strength, and are less expensive. the 719s are pricier for their lower weight.

For US touring, just build up a standard 9 speed cassette wheel. LX/XT, Chris King or Phil Wood cassette hubs. 7 speed freewheel on a phil wood is not going to be a good call or investment for a heritage hubset.

"i wouldn't listen too much to the suggestion from someone reccomending a 7 speed freewheel setup for your touring bike."

Finally something we agree on "... who is going to take 7 speed freewheel advice." I guess you figured you should stick with the arguments you could win.

5 speed, then 6, 7speed, and 8 how did they do it? I could make some taunting remark about your endurance, but I've been to your side of the great devide, on a few happy occasions your state, and believe me if you need 9 speeds on your rig, I can get by with a lot less in my neck of the woods. Never owned anything more then 7 speeds unitl my last bike. In fact, even in your state I probably could drop the 11 and 12 on the 11-32 9 speed and never miss them. Let's just call it what it is "extreme touring". Yes a 14-32 7 speed cassette and a look of grim determination.

Since I've started this thread I have bought a few items.

Shimano XTR RD-M960 Long Cage, Low Nomal(Rapid Rise) derailleur, New, 89.00 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/e6_1_b.jpg

Kelly Take Off shifter relocators, new. 34.99 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/takeoff_photo.jpg

Shimano Dura Ace 9 Spd downtube shifters for the Take offs, new 56.99 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/H919.jpg

Shimano 105 Brake Levers, used-21.00 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/d223_1_b.jpg

Truvative XR Seatpost, new-12.00 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/31d5_1.jpg

Bontrager Stem, 5.00 new at LBS
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/LHTFrame.jpg

I got these Shimano SPD shoes new for 19.99 shipped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/trdcamry2003/Second%20Album/8858_1.jpg

I'm going to get the Shimano Hone crankset for 115 new, a Shimano XT 11/34 cassette new for 50.00. Salsa Bell Lap Moto Ace bars new for 26.00, Shimano XT 36H hubs new for 80.00 for the pair, Mavic A719 rims new for 50.00 each , and DT Swiss Alpine III spokes, don't know how much those cost yet.

I'm waiting for the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x35 to come out.

I need to pick out a good pair of SPD compatible pedals, any recomendations?

m520 is a great pedal for touring. I have some nicer (more expensive) 959s on my race bike but can't tell a difference other than a little weight. The 520s are cheap too

jebezzus peter, just take a chill pill. 7 speed freewheel is a lousy system compared to cassette freehubs for simple mechanical and replacement availability. suggesting it to a new bike tourer would really limit his future options in quality replacement cassettes.

dude sounds like he's building his first touring bike, do you want him to build it with 30 year old technology when there's better options out there?

chill, bro. you don't understand lightweight tarp tents, either, but that's the subject of a different thread :) stop insulting me. Maybe YOU'D miss the 11 or 12, but some would not. And if you don't remember, the 11 and 12s are your FAST gears, not your climbing ones. I've toured with a 32 in back.


I'd go with some LX or XT hubs and you'll have great results, robert, widespread availability of cassettes at any bike shop, AND be using what 70 percent of the tourers wind up riding on with little issues. That 7 speed freewheel advice is just lame. nothing 'extreme' about it, peter.

Yeah, I'm going with the 9 speed, already got the XTR der. for it.
My LBS is building me wheels with XT hubs, DT Swiss Alpine III spokes, Mavic A719's and Marathon Supreme's 700x35

If I'm going with a 44/32/22 front crank setup, on a fully loaded bike should I use a 11/34 or 11/32 cassette?

SPD M520s are fine pedals.

I'd ride the 11-34, robert, for the extreme granny for over the rockies or the north cascades. When you're slogging up a long endless climb, a gearing that low will have you riding very slow but will save you from walking I'd imagine. 22/34 will give you a hella low gear inches, you should be able to climb up walls with that setup. 44 is kind of small for touring in my opinion. you'll NEED that 11 I'm betting.

If you don't like the wide spacing, SRAM mountain cassettes start at about 40 bucks and will be available at likely every bike shop you stop at. you can adjust your gearing with a simple cassette swap out, The Hone crankset will limit your chainring choices somewhat.

"I'd go with some LX or XT hubs and you'll have great results, robert, widespread availability of cassettes at any bike shop, AND be using what 70 percent of the tourers wind up riding on with little issues. That 7 speed freewheel advice is just lame. nothing 'extreme' about it, peter."

I already have LX and XT hubs, neither is that wonderful. The only claim I made far from a recomendation is that PHil's are the the only premium hub, hardened axle etc. that are around 100 or at least were until the new prices. Use them or not I don't care. I've never had a problem with freewheels, or cassetes, but both systems have their weaknesses. Up here I wasn't able to find the size of cassette I wanted in any shop, in Toronto. Most local shops didn't even have 32s. So I figure the chances of finding the gears I want on the road are not high, bring them with you if you are worried about it. 15 bucks for Shimano FW is a lot cheaper than the Shram you mention, I have one of those for my 8 speed. There are lots of freewheel bikes out there so I don't think I will get stranded any more than with the cassettes.

I know what the 11 and 12 are. At my age I've heard of them but don't have much use for them.

It's either a tent or a tarp. "Tarp tents" start with a confusion and moves into a deception (here kitty kitty...). Reminds me, Ray may be back from the pole and taking orders again. I wonder if he used a tarp tent...

jebezzus, peter, just give it a break, you're pontificating again!

the OP. using a 44 as the big ring, might very well get some advantage from an 11 as the small cog.

Next time I'm riding to the North Pole or winter bike touring, I'll make sure to pack my double wall tent :) till then, its tarps and lightweight shelters for me! (I'll include a hooped headnet in skeeter country, peeter. Don't you worry!)

BTW, Robert, that's a LHT in the photos, 48-36-24 and an 11-34 cassette.