Mountain Biking - XC oriented All Mountain......preferred set up...

I have been on this topic for a while. I was wondering what you guys think. Please post a pick if you have a bike that is a XC oriented All Mountain hard tail (i dont know if its a stupid term or not).

Also, please let me know what kind of set up you would recommend...... I have got a few components already....

Brakes: Hayes HFX with 8" front and 6" rear
Shifters and Derrailleurs: SRAM X.7 (is this adequate or should I get something better)
Cranks: TruVativ Blaze ISIS
Handle Bar: FSA FR-270 (1.5" riser bar)
Stem: FSA FR-200
TruVativ: Seatpost

Now I need to decide about the forllowing items:

Frame: it has to be Aluminium (Price no more than $500 NEW, I dont want an used frame)
Fork: I need to stay under $300 mark for the fork
Fork Travel:
Wheels:
Tires:
Seat:
Pedals:

thanks a lot.

sorry for the wrong spelling........appreciate the sanse of humor though.....

Frame: it has to be Aluminium (Price no more than $500 NEW, I dont want an used frame)
Fork: I need to stay under $300 mark for the fork


if there are some suggestions for a frame or a fork that a significantly lower priced than my maximum budget please feel free to add that in your comments......the more money I save the less explaining I will have to do to my wife...

Good fork adjustable travel 100-120mm.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FK503A20-Marzocchi+Mx+Pro+Etatas+100120+06.aspx

Cheap frame.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FR400A01-Jamis+Dakota+Al+Frame+05.aspx

Wheelset.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH707A22-Shimano+Xt+Discsingletrack+Wheelset.aspx

I run the same wheelset on my FS for XC/all mountain. I just installed the same fork on the hardtail I am building for the same type of riding. You can find a lot of good deals on Ebay too.

Frame I would have to go with a Santa Cruz Chameleon. I really miss that frame. :(

thanks Ymmie. do you think that frame would be the right choice. it has a pure XC geometry. Also, I am not sure about the BB clearance.....

LowCel......Yes...Chameleon is also my first choice......but, its a bit beyond my budget.....unless I buy an used one...then when I think of an used Chameleon....It comes to my mind that someone probably beat the crap out of that frame and now trying to off load it........how else could you let go of a Chameleon ....

Well I let go of one that was in perfect condition. I wanted a lighter cross country hardtail so I went with something else. Who ever received that one got one heck of a good deal.

why does it have to be Aluminum? i am doing a bike similar to yours...but with sweet Columbus steel.http://www.columbustubi.com/grafica/colomba.gif

i have a X.7 rear derailleur paired with an 5.0 grip shift that has been working great!

I think steel is beyond my budget. at least the kind of steel frame that would be light enough. I may be wrong. how much did you pay for your Columbus frame. can you please send me a link to the frame you are referring to.

Have you considered the DMR frames? I know they're a bit more all-mountain than XC but they always receive good reviews. The Sidekick is about $275 from JensonUSA.com.

Have you considered the DMR frames? I know they're a bit more all-mountain than XC but they always receive good reviews. The Sidekick is about $275 from JensonUSA.com.

Straight gauge 4130 is probably heavier than sherpaPeak would prefer.

That Sidekick looks good. also the TrailStar.......Do you have any geometry info on any of these frames. thanks for your help.

also these frames are pretty heavy......between 6 and 6.5 lb....

Straight gauge 4130 is probably heavier than sherpaPeak would prefer.

Thanks gastro.....by the way....you look pretty satisfied with that marzocchi fork....

That Sidekick looks good. also the TrailStar.......Do you have any geometry info on any of these frames. thanks for your help.

No problem and as a matter of fact I do!

You need to click this link: http://www.dmrbikes.com/?Section=products&pageType=item&category=7&CategoryName=Frames&itemid=FRMSK2

then click on geometry which is near the bottom of the page. You will then have a nice comparison table between all the current models. I wouldn't have thought there will be significant changes to the Sidekick 2 over the Sidekick.

Again, hope this helps. I'm excited for you! I'm currently waiting on a set of Mavics for my build. I'm so ready to ride it now!!! (see the sneak preview here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=258727)!

I would go for 120 or 130 travel wise, and those X7 will do just fine.

I wanted a lighter cross country hardtail so I went with something else.

Oh lordy, you and your weight weenie issues.

On a side note, you think I get an X.0 shifter down to 105 grams by dremeling out the thumb paddle a bit?

:D

how about the wheels....do you think the Rhyno Lights would be good enough......the trails I ride has lots of rocks and roots.....no jumps though.....as I am trying to keep the cost down, any help....anything currently on sale that I may be able to use for this set up.

thanks

8" disc in the front is probably overkill for XC and even all-mountain. There's not much harm in it, a little extra weight and a little extra cost, but I don't see the need. I kept the stock 6" Hayes rotors on my Kona Dawg and I've got plenty of stopping power. For the shifters, I'm sure X.7's will do the job just fine, but a nicer set will be a little smoother. It's really your call, because the shifters aren't likely to hold back your riding significantly. X.7 is respectable gear.

For the fork, I'm not sure if Manitou is still making the Minute 1.0, but a Black Super (http://pricepoint.com/detail/14498-315_ANSSP6-3-Parts-59-Forks/Accessories/Manitou-Black-Super-Suspension-Fork-'06.htm) should also be a good option.

If you're seriously into straight up XC then your spec sheet is waaaay overbult. Just because you don't run disk brakes and a 550 gram rim doesn't mean your bike is going to explode underneath you.
Focus on reducing your unsprung weight. Wheels are the most important. some sub 470 gram rim like a 717 or a 0 degree, double butted (revolution) spokes, and a decent cartridge bearing hub laced well will last you forever if you stick to XC despite how rocky or rooty the trail is. Next, ditch the disks for some upper end XTR or avid Ultimate V brakes. Good Vs will stop as well as most disks in normal XC condtions.

When I raced XC my favorite frame was a reynolds 853 tubed jamis dragon. I felt that good steel was superior to aluminum in most aspects.

After frame and wheels, in XC most everything else (shifters/saddles/other crap) is more personal preference.

If you're seriously into straight up XC then your spec sheet is waaaay overbult. Just because you don't run disk brakes and a 550 gram rim doesn't mean your bike is going to explode underneath you.
Focus on reducing your unsprung weight. Wheels are the most important. some sub 470 gram rim like a 717 or a 0 degree, double butted (revolution) spokes, and a decent cartridge bearing hub laced well will last you forever if you stick to XC despite how rocky or rooty the trail is. Next, ditch the disks for some upper end XTR or avid Ultimate V brakes. Good Vs will stop as well as most disks in normal XC condtions.

When I raced XC my favorite frame was a reynolds 853 tubed jamis dragon. I felt that good steel was superior to aluminum in most aspects.

After frame and wheels, in XC most everything else (shifters/saddles/other crap) is more personal preference.

as you can see in my post that the bike is not exclusively for XC.......its XC with an All Mountain twist......I know its a very vague term.....but more and more, I am finding myself pushing the limits of my XC bikes......Kona Cincer Cone 2005.....not that the cinder cone can not handle some of it.....but some times I feel a bit iffy......hence the XC-AM project.....

I also thought that the 8" front rotor would be too much...

There is one area where I find the need for a more AM style bike is the BB height......my Kona, Rockhopper and Trek bikes that I have ridden on the local trails all fail to negotiate the mid size obstacles on the trails (because of the low BB). I can maneuver around them, but then whats the point.

Also, beefier handle bar, Shorter stem and longer travel (to make a relaxed front end) is important for me on these rides......I dont care about the weight of the wheels (within a certain range).....but strength is important.....

At first I did not want to use this fork, but as someone mentioned about Manitou Black.....I was wondering if I could use my Manitou Splice Super for this set up (yes I bought this from JansenUSA for $49)......Anybody have personal experience with this fork...I read the mtbr.com reviews......but those reviews are not convincing......I would appreciate if you could help me out with the pros and cons of that fork......If I can use that i will be able to save some money.....

Whew, yea I was a little tired last night and somehow missed that. Still, get a bike that is oriented to what you're riding 99% of the time.
As for BB height, I woudn't worry about it. If you're failing to clear an obstacle with a BB with your current BB, you'll probably also fail to clear it with a smidge more bb height. Don't rely on the bike to do the handling for you.

I'm not really familiar with the Splice, but it can probably do ok for a while. Manitou forks tend to be a little soft for most rider's tastes, and I think more so at the lower end of the price range. For lighter riders, it's generally not bad, but for average to heavy riders, you may tend to bottom out more on jumps, and for climbing, experience extra bob. I, understandably I hope, also tend to trust the strength of mid to high end forks more.

But that doesn't mean it will be wholly inadequate, and if you're on a limited budget, it definitely sounds like a good starting point.

One more thing to consider: as I read a little more, it sounds like you're planning on doing more aggressive xc, with some drops and jumps thrown in. Pretty similar to what I do. In that case, don't rule out 4" travel bikes. That opens up a few more frame options and can probably save you a few bucks, both on the frame and the fork. I ride with 5" of travel front and back and am quite happy with it, but in retrospect, a well built 4" bike can handle everything I ride with pretty minimal loss in performance (and a little better climbing).

Also, extra BB height is nice, but you will still find plenty of obstacles the chainring just won't clear. As AfterThisNap said, don't get too focused on BB height. It's one of the many features you want, but I wouldn't make it a deal breaker.

I had a brand new X.7 F derailleur on my new bike and it shifted poorly. Changed it straight away to XT and it was much faster. If I were on a budget, I wouldn't worry about it though.

I'm running a 130 fork on my XC/AM bike. Seems a good amount of travel on a Yeti 575 (full susser, not sure if that's meaningful to a hardtail build)

what you think of this build kit for my AM/XC set up. I can sale the duplicate items (i already have) on Ebay......if needed....

http://wheelworld.com/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&id=3830

i would spent 100$ more and get the "back country" build kit depending on how much travel you want

do you think I need that much travel for my set up? thanks for the suggestion.

updates:

I know the project is going slow.....but as winter has settled in....I am not rushing....

recently bought

wheelset: sun rhyno lite with XT hubs
Saddle: WTB Laser V
Pedal: Kona Jack
Grips: Sette Lock on type-B


now tires: I am trying to decide one out of this bunch....

1. Panaracer Fire XC Pro
2. IRC Mythos XC
3. WTB Mutanoraptor
4. Hutchinson Scorpions

I value traction, durability over weight..........and I will be riding in the NorthEast on lose trails, rocks, roots...etc


any suggestion....

Ok,
Frame: that is a hard question...I can't comment on it....do u want a FS or hardtail?

Fork: Manitou R7 Elite ($175 USD) on eBay - 3.4 lbs only for 100mm travel
Fork Travel: 90mm (yes there is 90) or if you can't find it, 100mm
Wheels: depends on your budget...but XT hubs w/ 317 Disc rim is very good. If you can afford it, get Chris King or DT 240s. Do NOT get Spinergy wheels.
Tires: N/R - every1 style is different
Seat: Selle Itaita Flite or if you can stand it, SLR (I love it)
Pedals: CrankBros Eggbeater (the cheapest one) its cheap... like $40 USD New on ebay with cleats

x7 i think will be fine, but best way to find out is to use them and see.
i like specialized frames and with forks with your budget i would look at rockshox tora or marzocchi exr comp personnally and your bum will love you for a specialized v groove seat :) wheels depends on budget but im not an expert when it comes to wheels

any suggestion for a decent quality headset (low budget) for my set up. I am using a Manitou Splice Super fork with 100-130 travel and a FSA FR-200 stem (Stack height is 40mm, if I am not totally wrong).....

thanks for your help.

I've had good luck with my FSA Orbit headsets. Here is the Orbit X (http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=40242&cat=200&brand=91), I haven't tried this exact model but if it's anything like their other headsets it should work great.

Thanks LowCel...You are always very helpful......I like FSA components a lot....

But my local bike shop was pushing me towards the Cane Creek S-8......

Anyway I will go with the FSA....best.

now tires: I am trying to decide one out of this bunch....

1. Panaracer Fire XC Pro
2. IRC Mythos XC
3. WTB Mutanoraptor
4. Hutchinson Scorpions

I value traction, durability over weight..........and I will be riding in the NorthEast on lose trails, rocks, roots...etc


any suggestion....
i was browsing through mtbr to check for a popular/reliable tire because i want to replace mine soon, and by far fire xc pro has the most reviews. then i found bluestyclycing selling them for like $16 + $4 shipping = $20 shipped to your front door. i just need to make sure they aren't made in taiwan because a lot of people complained about the quality of made in taiwan xc pro vs made in japan xc pro.

I think the ones you saw in that website is the Taiwan stuff.....one way to figureout the difference is that the Japan XC pro has a large witer lettering on the side of the tire....as opposed to small red and yellow (if i am not totally wrong) lettering on the Taiwan XC pro......Also, the Japan XC pro has 127 TPI as opposed to 60 TPI....60 TPI is supposed to be a lot better quality.

the cheapest price I found for the 127 TPI XC pro is at JensonUSA.com

please let me know if I am missing something...

updates:

now tires: I am trying to decide one out of this bunch....

1. Panaracer Fire XC Pro
2. IRC Mythos XC
3. WTB Mutanoraptor
4. Hutchinson Scorpions

I value traction, durability over weight..........and I will be riding in the NorthEast on lose trails, rocks, roots...etc


any suggestion....

Any suggestion about the tires? Thanks.

now there are two issues I am trying to figure out.......

1. fork: I have recently got a Marzocchi EXR Race (85mm, 105mm, 120mm travel) fork from one of my co-workers. He never used this fork, I can tell. This is an OEM fork (2005 model). Do any one have any experience with this particular fork. Is it a better option than my Manitou Splice Super (100-130mm travel)?

04 Devinci Guzzler.
120mm front Bomber suspension w/ETA, 3.5"-5.5" TALAS rear suspension, XT components,SRAM chain and attack triggers, Mavic 321 wheels w/Deore 525 hubs,Race Face chain rings, Hayes HXF9 hydors w/6" rotor, Easton post, stem and bars, WTB rocket V saddle, Panaracer Cinder Tires( pic has WTB Weirwolfs).
Ive had this bike since Sept. 04, have well over 3k offroad miles from tame doubletrack to Rocky no track of Massenutten mt. and tons of sigletrack in between.
I weigh over 200# plus gear and have only had to replace the chain and rings, repack and adjust wheel bearings, new rear der. cable, new brake pads, replace defective BB bearinmngs( done by bike shop under warranty in 05) and customize the front oil weight and volume( mixture of 15 and 10 weight to get it smooth as silk). I have yet to need to retrue the rims.
the green bottle in the holder is a water filter for when 3 liters arent enough
the bar ends are Crane Creek Ergobars and YES I HAVE fixed the front cable since the pic was taken. ha ha

now, I have got the XT hubs, which takes center lock rotors. but, I have disc brakes that takes 6 bolt rotors.....what is my best option (in terms of performance)

- buy 6 bolt adaptors for the hubs
or
- buy the shimano center lock rotors and use it with my Hayes Disc calipers.....

What are the pros and cons of either option (if any)...thanks.

The 6 bolt adapters will be cheaper.

The center-lock rotor setup will be lighter.

The rest is up to you!

is there something about the shimano rotors are too thin and may wear out the brake pads unevenly? if they are used with non-shimano disc brake calipers. I heard it somewhere, dont know how credible it is.

any thoughts...