Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - White Industries eccentric Eno hub - opinions?

I'm interested in using a White Industries eccentric Eno hub http://www.whiteind.com/ENO-hub-specs.html for a vertical dropout frame I'd like to convert to single speed.

Anyone have experience with these? My only fear is brake pad adjustment/alignment.

Opinions anyone?

Thanks!

CJS

fugazi dave loves his.

fsnl
sparky

Good hub.

I wouldn't worry about brake pad adjustment, once you get it dialed in once any minor adjustments you make for chain wear shouldn't necessitate futzing with the brake unless you are way anal about that sort of thing. If you want to run it as a flip-flop with two different sizes you may have a little more of a problem, but setting it up so that the eccentricity roughly mirrors a normal old-school diagonal semi-horizontal dropout (i.e. in your bigger gear it's in the 6-o'clock position and in your smaller one it's back at like 8-o'clock or so, not sure if that makes sense but try to visualize how the hub moves) should help.

If you're just doing single speed, I wouldn't futz with the eno hub, it costs more than a whole wheel of similar quality, a chain tensioner, and a bottle of 12 year old scotch. It's definitely a slightly cleaner setup, but for SS I really think it's kind of a solution looking for a problem.

fugazi dave loves his.

fsnl
sparky

I do indeed! I recommend one wholeheartedly, no reservations about it whatever.

Love mine.

I use it on my Trek 7K. The hub has seen back to back muddy east coast trail rides over the past few days and has held up well. The bearings are fine and smooth. It is a well thought out hub. The flip-flop set up is great for me as well. Ride fixed to work and then the trails, flip it to the freewheel for the trails, then cruise to the bars fixed. Good times.

Craig

If you're just doing single speed, I wouldn't futz with the eno hub, it costs more than a whole wheel of similar quality, a chain tensioner, and a bottle of 12 year old scotch. It's definitely a slightly cleaner setup, but for SS I really think it's kind of a solution looking for a problem.

Yeah. I'm kind of torn about this. I just got a Redline Conquest Disc frame to build up for singlespeed use. I'm not really keen on running a tensioner (I'd probably try a half link and praying to the magic gear gods first). The ENO looks cool but going with a singlespeed cassette kit would be a LOT cheaper, would make chainline a no-brainer, and would give me the option of gears if I want them later.

<-another fully satisfied user here. i've run one on my mtb for a while, and i have no complaints. other than some initial chain stretch i never had to adjust the rear brake (v brake)

yeah it's a little pricey, but it's also a dang good hub, beyond it's eccentric qualities. if you can afford it it's 100% worth it.

I'm interested in using a White Industries eccentric Eno hub http://www.whiteind.com/ENO-hub-specs.html for a vertical dropout frame I'd like to convert to single speed.

Anyone have experience with these? My only fear is brake pad adjustment/alignment.

Opinions anyone?

Thanks!

CJS

I built a wheel a couple of weeks ago, with that hub. I put it on a MTB with vertical dropouts, and didn't even have to reposition the brake pads.

I run one on a modern road bike conversion - its a great hub! My short reach brakes cover at least 90% of the positions on the hub, basically just around the 6 and 12 o'clock positions are too "low" and "high" for my brakes to compensate. My friend let me know that magic gears are great when you first start, but can suck if chain stretch causes problems.

If you're just doing single speed, I wouldn't futz with the eno hub, it costs more than a whole wheel of similar quality, a chain tensioner, and a bottle of 12 year old scotch. It's definitely a slightly cleaner setup, but for SS I really think it's kind of a solution looking for a problem.

Here's some easy math, numbers come from Webcyclery.com:
$139 - Eno hub

Or
$69 - Surly single speed hub
$52 - Surly tensioner
----
$121 total

Not much difference if you are looking to do things right and build an SS wheel. For the money, the ENO hub is a deal for a quality rear hub even if it didn't have the nice eccentric feature. That said, I did have some minor slipping issues on an old Ibis conversion. But, I can tell you it was because of two reasons: 1) the Breezer dropouts have very little surface area for the eccentric portion to grip to 2) I'm a notorious masher, grunting up steep stuff that puts a lot of torgue on the drive train. When I got rid of the frame I eventually sold the wheel to a friend who is using it without issue. I also have a few other friends with the setup who haven't had a problem.

Tenisoners are great to dip your toe in the water, but if you want a solid set up, the ENO is the ticket. Ride a bike with a tension and one without and you'll see the difference. Brake pad adjustment is no more of a problem than an SS with track ends.

I've happily owned two ENOs (ridden year around though not off road) for about 18 months. One is used on a single speed (w/ a White Ind freewheeel), the other on a fixed. gear Bearings are now a bit ragged, however. Replacements (6902) are common and cheap.

May be it's my masher riding style, but I've had to thighten the 4mm bolts on either side of the hub every so often.

P.S. Before you buy check out prices at Spicer Cycles. Gene is a great guy.

From my experience tensioners like the Surly are not the best choice, the ENO is really a better choice

I love my ENO!!!!!
I had a surly singleater & a freehub cog kit which did work well, but when riding on the trail I would still get a little chain slap & with the noise of the roller on the singleater it was still like riding with a derailer.
I bought a ENO eccentric from WEBCYCLERY (ENO pre-built wheel $210.00: http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=17476&cat=404&page=1), I got mine in all black with the x717 rim so it was a little more.
I did have to adjust the brake pads.

Also, I lost just over 1lb just in wheel weight! (ENO & Mavic X717 = 2lb 3oz / LX & Sun Ryno Lite = 3lb 5oz)

May be it's my masher riding style, but I've had to thighten the 4mm bolts on either side of the hub every so often.

I'm not a masher but I do find my ENO slipping and causing the chain to slack quite often. I think it's due to the frame's dropout design.....not enough surface contact at the eccentrics.

Here's some easy math, numbers come from Webcyclery.com:
$139 - Eno hub

Or
$69 - Surly single speed hub
$52 - Surly tensioner
----
$121 total
Not the fairest of comparisons. Using a SS hub to "do it right" is a waste of money, IMHO. Just get a $30 rear disc hub and use spacers and a cog. Also, there are a ton of cheaper (and better) tensioners out there. Not to mention homebrews and magic gears, if you are lucky.

Not the fairest of comparisons. Using a SS hub to "do it right" is a waste of money, IMHO. Just get a $30 rear disc hub and use spacers and a cog. Also, there are a ton of cheaper (and better) tensioners out there. Not to mention homebrews and magic gears, if you are lucky.

Here's why it's a fair comparison - A $30 rear disc hub is not the same quality as an ENO. Landgolier stated:
I wouldn't futz with the eno hub, it costs more than a whole wheel of similar quality, a chain tensioner, and a bottle of 12 year old scotch.

I picked the Surly hub for comparison because it is a solid work horse, not top of the line, not bottom of the barrel. Their tensioner is middle of the line in terms of price (see Paul and Soul Craft for the high end). The XT hub at Webcyclery will run you $60, which is the quality level I'd put the ENO at. All prices taken from the same vendor for fairness.

I've happily owned two ENOs (ridden year around though not off road) for about 18 months. One is used on a single speed (w/ a White Ind freewheeel), the other on a fixed. gear Bearings are now a bit ragged, however. Replacements (6902) are common and cheap.

May be it's my masher riding style, but I've had to thighten the 4mm bolts on either side of the hub every so often.

P.S. Before you buy check out prices at Spicer Cycles. Gene is a great guy.

Those bearings, are they the same as 6902-2RS?

+1 to the ENO being better than using a tensioner. It's a high-quality hub and runs very smooth. If you're constantly removing/installing your rear wheel, then it can be a pain to get the chain tension "just right". I have to use a wrench to hold the axle in position while I tighten the nuts.

Here's why it's a fair comparison - A $30 rear disc hub is not the same quality as an ENO. Landgolier stated:
I wouldn't futz with the eno hub, it costs more than a whole wheel of similar quality, a chain tensioner, and a bottle of 12 year old scotch.
Good point, I missed that "similar quality" caveat. However, it is worth pointing out that there is no low-end alternative to the ENO, it is the only model of its kind. A tensioner + normal wheel combo, however, has as many pricepoints and options as anything.

Biggest issue with a rear hub is the freewheel mechanism. With eno you have to buy freewheel(s) separate. Generally this means paying more for lower quality parts that don't last long. Decent freewheels can cost more than a lot of good hubs. Quick web search for an eno freewheel = $75.

A lot of people have kind of captured what I was saying. Built up eno wheel with eno FW = $300ish. A $200 freehub rear is a pretty good wheel, and you can change your gearing for $15 rather than $75, plus shift it over to a geared bike if you want. Granted you can use a cheaper freewheel on the eno and change gears for cheaper, but most people think the eno wears hard enough compared to shim or acs to be worth it.

I'm interested in using a White Industries eccentric Eno hub http://www.whiteind.com/ENO-hub-specs.html for a vertical dropout frame I'd like to convert to single speed.

Anyone have experience with these? My only fear is brake pad adjustment/alignment.

Opinions anyone?

Thanks!

CJS

I have one on a MTB frame. I have a 16T cog on the fixed side and a ENO DOS, 17/19 freewheel on the other. It will adjust for all three using the same chain. My rear brake is a Cane Creek Direct Curve 3 and there is more than enough pad adjustment to accommodate all three rear cog sizes.

There are two ways to get the right chain tension:
1, With the bike on the ground and the axle bolts loose, put a 20mm wrench on the flats of the eccentric and roll it forward until the chain tension is "just right", and tighten the axle bolts.
2, With the bike on the ground and the axle bolts loose, roll the bike forward until the chain tension is "just right". Lock the rear brake and secure the lever with a bungee, a toe strap or someone's hand. Tighten the axle bolts.

It is an expensive wheel... no doubt about that, but it does what I want it to with no compromises. I have found other places in my life to save the money I needed to buy it.

Those bearings, are they the same as 6902-2RS?

I hope so, because I just ordered them. I don't know what 2Rs mean. Rear?

I hope so, because I just ordered them. I don't know what 2Rs mean. Rear?

Heh, so did I. Click-happy, aren't we? I found them for $1.50 apiece, so I won't be shedding tears if it turns out they don't fit.

I hope so, because I just ordered them. I don't know what 2Rs mean. Rear?
2RS means dual contact sealed. This thread (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=117788&page=2) talks about replacement bearings in great detail.

Aero, thanks for the thread tip. Read it but still don't know if the 2Rs designation means I have absolutely to have those bearings. I guess I'll find out soon.

I had mine for three weeks and then it slipped and stripped off my lockring. Took the threads with it and all. Trying to reach warranty dept, but no reply after 3 days...

Sucks as it is such a great concept...
oh well, got a 150 dollar paperweight.... ;(

Trying to reach warranty dept, but no reply after 3 days.


email this lady.

lynette@whiteind.com

Anyone have experience with these? My only fear is brake pad adjustment/alignment.

Hey CJS.

I have one of these puppies on a Ritchey Road Logic I built up as a SS/Fixie. It really is a great piece of equipment. My fear was that it may slip, but after countless miles of abuse, I've come to the conclusion that it's solid as a rock.

I run a 18 and a 16 on the back. I don't have to adjust my brakes when I flip over to the other cog. :thumb:

.... Brad

Its been 5 days... maybe on summer vacation?

I can only hope.

Hey,

Your concern of brake adjustment is understandable. If you are using canti-levers, you are pretty lucky as adjustment is very easy. This is because canti-levers do not really have to be very close to the rim. I think canti-lever + ENO is hard to beat ... (Oh no rear break is better, but I gotta negotiate with cars ... and pedestrians/mamacharis)

It is probably the hardest with V-brakes or Mini-V as you have to adjust really close to the rim while you do vertical adjustments. I dislike this part of using Mini-V, but I like its reliability under urban activities.

I've never tried it with road calipers as my converted fixie is an MTB.

And, this is my ENO porn.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b357/Tomo_Ishi/KC280096.jpg

Oh come now. This is like only good part of my bike anyway.

T

How do you guys deal with chain alignment with the hub? I've got a Klein frame that has a press in BB, this means that I'm limited to a certain number of crank options. How would I ensure proper chain line with the Eno hub?