Bicycle Mechanics - Ay! My rear brakes!

Ok, I've been having problem after problem today, but this is the worst of it.

After a slow start, I left out to go teach my aerobics class. I jumped on my bike, and as soon as I reached the street, I found that my rear brakes weren't working at all. When I would engage the brake lever, it would just flop. I was late, so I just did the best I could.

After all my classes, this guy went back with me to my bike. He found that the brake cables leading to the rear brakes was really loose, so he tightened it up. BUT we came upon a new problem- the right brake pad is sticking, so when I engage the rear brakes, the left side disengages the wheel when I release the brake lever, but the right pad is still engaging the wheel. He didn't know what to do at that point, but he did say that the brake pivot bolt is causing the brake pad to stick to the wheel after I've released the brake lever. He thought maybe I should lube it up.

Before I do that, I figured I'd jump on the forum and see if someone can help me out here. I had a ride planned today that is already cut short because I've been trying to fix this problem for at least an hour. But I can at least get in a long ride if I can get out of here by 2pm (50 minutes from now).

I do notice when I ride, the rear wheel is kind of "wobbly feeling". I know now it's because the right brake pad is still attached to the wheel! I also think it's been making me work a lot harder than I need to, since it's preventing my tire from rotating normally.

Help!

Koffee

P.S. I don't know a lot of bike terms, but I do have a book with some bike anatomy terms and a picture, but I wanted to throw that caveat at you guys.

Originally posted by Koffee Brown
BUT we came upon a new problem- the right brake pad is sticking, so when I engage the rear brakes, the left side disengages the wheel when I release the brake lever, but the right pad is still engaging the wheel.

What type of brake is it? Cantilever/V or sidepull? And if sidepull, dual-pivot or single-pivot?

You might want to check to see if the wheel is in the dropouts correctly first.

Cantis and V-brakes usually will have little adjustment screws near the pivot bolts (one on each side) which will allow you to adjust the pad-to-rim distance individually for each arm by adjusting spring tension. Try backing off the right screw. If that doesn't work, you may have to take the right arm off and adjust the spring the hard way... by yanking on it.

For more hints on adjusting cantilever style brakes, see:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_cant.shtml

For V-brakes...

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_linearbrakes.shtml


Dual-pivot calipers usually have a centering adjustment screw near the top. Mine are slightly off to the right.

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_dualpivot.shtml

For older style and single-pivot sidepulls, I've always had to pop the spring off the back with a pair of pliers and bend it a little one way or another to center the pads.

They're v brakes, I believe....

I'm going to check out the parktools link and then I'll PM you if I have some additional questions.

Thanks!

KB

You da bomb, khuon!

I went back to your post, re-read it, and tried it again. Problem fixed!

Now for these stupid spd's....

Koffee

Originally posted by Koffee Brown
I went back to your post, re-read it, and tried it again. Problem fixed!


I'm glad you got it fixed considering I gave you the wrong advice. I should have told you to tighten the adjustment screw which will add more spring tension and consequentially move the arm further from the rim instead of backing it off which would lessen the tension thus moving the arm closer to the rim. I hope you managed to get some riding in afterall.

Oh yeah.

Once I went to the link you gave me, it told me everything. Since I didn't quite understand what you were saying until I read the info in the link, you didn't do any harm... only good!

Thanks. I got in 3 hours of riding this afternoon thanks to your advice. I didn't think I was going to get any riding in this morning!

Koff

Honey, I can change a tube- half the time, I don't even need a tool to do so!

I'm not surprised to see you didn't understand the gist of the last bike maintenance question I had about my tire problem. You obviously have limited patience- which comes through most of your posts. Go back and re-read it, and if you still don't get it, I can't do much more else for you. I used little words.

For your information, I already lubed it before I got the first response. It didn't work.


Your responses usually come a day late and a dollar short. So, in the future, I'll just disregard your posts. They're unnecessary and have little substance.

Koffee

ZING!

Take a good look at the little metal elbow that connects your cable housing to the brake arm. I'm betting that the stop on the elbow has been pushed back. That will have the effect of making your brake cable go slack. The solution is to get a new one at your LBS.

Thanks... I think I'm going to be seeing the Park Tools guy this week. I will probably have him take a look at my bike. I may let the kids in his program fix my bike if there are anymore problems.

KB

I'm sorry, Koffee-I was way out of line with what I said. I have removed the offending post, and offer you my sincerest apology.

Make sure your pads are hitting the rim flush and not under the rim. A pad that's a little off can form a lip and catch on the rim.