Mountain Biking - Full Suspension bikes with lockout

Does anyone know any bikes which have about 3-5 inches of travle and have lock out? Im somewhat interested in one for an all around bike. Could i also just find a frame such as an FSR or Schwinn ROcket and find a lockout shock of the right eye to eye length and install it? Thanks

Sure!

If you get an FSR, you won't need one. If you get a single pivot, you will get some pedal induced bobbing, but not a significant amount.

Your own pedaling efficiency is a much better option (cheaper too) compared to a another part to break. Learn to "Pedal in Circles" not "Up and Down".

I've used lockouts before, and the only time I've really needed one, or could really notice the bobbing was on the road. Off-road the effect was minimal.

L8R

bac, just test drove a Blur, he liked it....see what he said (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25997)

here is the link to his thread. to me and my use, a lock out would be good for the raod, but on trail its one more thing to worry about

Is the FSR a single pivot frame? I rode an enduro once and felt a TON of bob. That would be the reason for lockout.

No the FSR is a four bar system and if it was bobbing you either pedal straight-up and down (not in a circle like you're supposed to) or the thing wasn't set up properly. My Rockhopper FSR doesn't bob at ALL. In fact it pedals the same as my hardtail.

If you're hammering the pedals out of the saddle you'll get some bobbing, but thats what you're supposed to avoid with a full suspension. Thats not pedal induced bob, thats poor form bob. My stumpy has a lockout, the lockout mechanism seemed kind of awkward when I was looking at it in the shop. The guy there assured me I would get the hang of it; that it wouldn't be a problem. He was right on one point, it hasn't been a problem. I've never had a need to lock it out. There are two times where I can see lockout as a good thing, epic climbs where you'll need to get out of the saddle, and... ok I guess I can only think of one. You're supposed to stay seated for those epic climbs, thats a luxury full suspension affords you. Keep your butt on the seat and let the suspension keep your back tire glued to the ground and you'll leave the hardtails in the dust.

I think the fact that you have to pedal seated all the time and avoid sprinting is ********. That's the biggest thing I hate about my FS bike.. that and I can really feel the weight. I love how smooth it rides, but I'd rather put up with a little more bumpiness in order to have more efficiency. I've ridden quite a few DS designs and have NEVER found anything anywhere near as efficient as a hardtail. I love to downhill, but I hate the feeling of a rear suspension bobbing when I'm climbing a steep hill or TRYING to sprint.

FSR=no bob. Epic FSR=zero bob, regardless of form. Yeti AS-R=souped up FSR design. The Blur is pretty cool and all, but all the press has caused a good backlog last I heard. If you're on a budget, the FSR is great; if you have some more money to spend check out the Epic, Kokopelli (essentially last years AS-R), or the AS-R itself. Cannondale's Jeckyl has the remote lockout but I can't really recommend it.

hey, i gotta comment here...

i have a '02 FSR with Fox lockout (rear and front)

for riding on trails you don't need either lockout and the rear suspension actually helds you climb by forcing the tire into the ground and aiding grip...

i use the lockouts relatively rarely, BUT i like them both.

the front is important when standing out of the saddle, and the rear is nice on long road sections and especially LONG road climbs : for example last weekend i did a "Marathon" MTB race with 3530 meters of vertical (11,700 ft) in 104km with a few climbs of sustained 7-20% for over an hour. for these climbs the lockouts are GREAT as i pretty much have a rigid bike with a few extra pounds (ok, the rear rebounds a little funny with the lockout on so it's not QUITE as "beautiful" as standing and cranking uphill on a ridig frame) --- and the race took me 7 hours and 14 minutes and without the lockouts it would have been at least another half hour!

as others have saif IF you don't ride much road the lockouts aren't really needed (but they're nice)

as to the original question: yes. for 2002 the FSR came with no rear lockout on the normal bike and lockouts on the Comp and Pro - otherwise the frames were identical. and yes, you can change a non-lockout shock for one with lockout.

oh, and the new Epic is even better!

Thanks a lot, I would consider the Epic but too much $$. FSR frames are relatively cheap and I will look for a used one possibly. Too bad my shop doesnt deal Specialized!

Sorry to bother you guys again, but I have another question. Do FSR bikes have a limit on travel. Because I was hoping to get a frame with adjustable travel from like 3-4-5 and possibly lockout. Do I need to make sure the eye-eye length of the shock fits the frame appropiatley. And if so, would I get a Float RLC or something? Im a little confused on the way rear shocks work.

I consider of having lockout as essential - but after several months on fully bikes I use it less often. Use it always on road and on some steep climbs. At the moment I don't use it on flat climbs (but I used to). the extra "comfort+control" you get offset some bob

In my superlight (one bar, 10cm travell) there is some bob even when you pedal in circles. When buying the frame I ordered the lockout (which costs extra :( ). Funny thing but on the road, superlight when locked feels some kind of odd. Once you block it you feel that now your full body bobs.

So can you live without the lockout? Yes, but you will feel annoyed while peadaling steep climbs and your energy goes into bob. (especially after you switch your hardtail for fully)
The extra money for lockout can be $50 - but in my opinion its worth to pay extra

Funny thing but on the road, superlight when locked feels some kind of odd. Once you block it you feel that now your full body bobs.

yes, i feel this too on my specialized... it's not really much of a bob, but more of a slight but fast rebound which feel odd. i don't think it robs much power (i.e. the lockout is working) but it feel funny. it's also strange b/c with the lockout i sit a little higher (as the shock is normally a little compressed - i.e. sag)


Do FSR bikes have a limit on travel. Because I was hoping to get a frame with adjustable travel from like 3-4-5 and possibly lockout. Do I need to make sure the eye-eye length of the shock fits the frame appropiatley. And if so, would I get a Float RLC or something? Im a little confused on the way rear shocks work.

i don't know if it's true of other model years, but my 2002 FSR has 2 rear travel mount points, but there's only like 2cm difference i think... but otherwise, i think you have to stick with the travel for which the frame was designed (sorry don't know the stats myself)

but in general, i think getting an older FSR frame and adding a Fox Float RL should be no problem.

gt xcr with a fox float baby works great for me 4.5 inches of travel and its pretty easy to lock it out w/out remote once you get used to it

Another good bike thats out there is the new giant vt. Its a little big on the money side but is totaly adjustable and even has a push button remote lockout for the front fork. I havent rode one yet but i checked one out and man there are alot of options on the travel setpoints. Im not saying the bike is good or bad, but it is a pretty "trick" setup, also giant is usualy a good company to look to if you are looking for more "bang for your buck"

I think just about everyone is now making an adjustable travel bike. K2's Tirade is adjustable. Specialized's FSR's are adjustable, Giants' AC's and VT's, Gary Fisher's Sugar +, Trek Fuel's....etc. The only one that I can think of that is adjustable without tools (unbolting shock and rebolting into different mounting hole), is the Marin TARA line of bike.

L8R

The Enduro FSR is adjustable on the fly, if memory serves.

so are the ac's and vt's on the fly and like i said alot of product for your cash