Mountain Biking - Quick release problem?

I rebuilt my rear hub this morning - it was disgusting. When I got out to the trails (no, i didn't ride it before I got out there), I hopped on, and as soon as I started pedaling, the right side of the QR got pulled out of the dropout. It should also be noted that I replaced the derailleur hanger this morning. No matter how tight it was, the QR would not hold. I reversed it, and it still pulled out on the right side. Is this likely to be a QR problem? I closed the cam, and then just used pliers to tighten the nut on the other side, and it still wouldn't hold.

It should also be noted that I replaced the dropout this morning.
how does one replace dropouts? Derailleur Hanger maybe?

how does one replace dropouts? Derailleur Hanger maybe?

er. thanks. was talking to my roommate instead of paying attention to what I was writing:rolleyes:

My first guess is that in rebuilding your rear hub, you somehow left too much axle protruding beyond the locknut. This would prevent the QR from clamping onto the dropout . Forgetting to reinstall a spacer would also possibly have the same net effect.

I closed the cam, and then just used pliers to tighten the nut on the other side, and it still wouldn't hold.

Thats the problem. You tighten the nut first by hand, then close the cam.

My first guess is that in rebuilding your rear hub, you somehow left too much axle protruding beyond the locknut. This would prevent the QR from clamping onto the dropout . Forgetting to reinstall a spacer would also possibly have the same net effect.

That's probably it - but I definitely got all the spacers (I always take apart and rebuild wheels over a bin. I hate chasing bearings.)

I'll see if I can figure out where the extra room came from. Failing that, do you see any issue with just adding another spacer?


Thats the problem. You tighten the nut first by hand, then close the cam.

We also tried it leaving the cam open, and tightening with the pliers.

Originally, of course, I tightened it by hand, and then closed the cam.

Adding spacers is not an issue as long as there's about 4mm free axle protruding beyond the locknuts on each side of the hub. The key thing here is that the axle should not protrude beyond the dropout faces when the QR is tightened.

The key thing here is that the axle should not protrude beyond the dropout faces when the QR is tightened.

+1, I'll bet thats the problem, too much axle on one side

how does one replace dropouts? Derailleur Hanger maybe?

For sake of argument, some Santa Cruz's (not sure if all do) you replace the whole dropout as opposed to replacing just a hanger. So yes, it is possible on some bikes to replace the dropout.

For sake of argument, some Santa Cruz's (not sure if all do) you replace the whole dropout as opposed to replacing just a hanger. So yes, it is possible on some bikes to replace the dropout.

Also, lugged steel. I do own welding equipment.

Unfortunately, this is a Specialized, and made of aluminum. I fail.

I think I may have moved the everything left on the axle just a little bit. I'll take a second look at it in the morning.

For sake of argument, some Santa Cruz's (not sure if all do) you replace the whole dropout as opposed to replacing just a hanger. So yes, it is possible on some bikes to replace the dropout.
thats pretty cool.

Also, lugged steel. I do own welding equipment.
ha! i was thinking of adding "unless you have welding equipment" to my original response, but didnt think someone would try it. :)

thats pretty cool.

ha! i was thinking of adding "unless you have welding equipment" to my original response, but didnt think someone would try it. :)

talk to the SS/FG forum. Those guys will spend 12 hours stripping, debrazing, fitting, filing, rebrazing, sanding, priming, painting, and clearcoating - all so they can open a beer bottle with their dropout.

Also, lugged steel. I do own welding equipment.

That's what I have always liked about steel. Have vertical dropouts? Want horizontal? Take it to the welder! Just out of curiousity, (not including parts) whats the going rate to hack off the old droupouts and slap on some new ones?

That's what I have always liked about steel. Have vertical dropouts? Want horizontal? Take it to the welder! Just out of curiousity, (not including parts) whats the going rate to hack off the old droupouts and slap on some new ones?

For you? Free.

You should probably know that I have yet to successfully weld something - still in the learning phase. I don't know what a real welder would charge.

That's probably it - but I definitely got all the spacers (I always take apart and rebuild wheels over a bin. I hate chasing bearings.)
Try using a large magnet in a tray or something.Keeps things from getting away from you.I usually pull out all the bearings out with a pencil magnet too.

Try using a large magnet in a tray or something.Keeps things from getting away from you.I usually pull out all the bearings out with a pencil magnet too.

I used to do that, but I got to rely on it. One day, I built a set of wheels with aluminum nipples.

I was surprised that half of them ended up under my desk.

That's what I have always liked about steel. Have vertical dropouts? Want horizontal? Take it to the welder! Just out of curiousity, (not including parts) whats the going rate to hack off the old droupouts and slap on some new ones?
Pfff, i would do it for a 12pk

Try using a large magnet in a tray or something.Keeps things from getting away from you.I usually pull out all the bearings out with a pencil magnet too.
My spin on the magnet is that you will end up magnetizing the ball bearings or any other steel parts, which will attract the usually present steel shavings, etc..

My spin on the magnet is that you will end up magnetizing the ball bearings or any other steel parts, which will attract the usually present steel shavings, etc..
That's nice:beer:

Update:

So I messed with the hub for a few hours, never could get that sucker working. Tried a new wheel today - that did the exact same thing.

For some reason it never occurred to me to check the dropouts:

http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/ld.jpg
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/rd.jpg

Sorry for the crappy picture of the driveside - but it's not really scratched up anyway. The strange thing to me is that the non-driveside dropout is scuffed to hell, but that's not the side it was pulling out on (edit: nevermind. it's pulling out on both sides). Is it possible that's the problem anyway, or is that just what dropouts look like when a bike is used a lot?

Update:

So I messed with the hub for a few hours, never could get that sucker working. Tried a new wheel today - that did the exact same thing.

For some reason it never occurred to me to check the dropouts:
but it's not really scratched up anyway. The strange thing to me is that the non-driveside dropout is scuffed to hell, but that's not the side it was pulling out on (edit: nevermind. it's pulling out on both sides). Is it possible that's the problem anyway, or is that just what dropouts look like when a bike is used a lot?
lol

lol

mm..just got back from a long session of lol'ing at the frame - no good.

Any other suggestions?

mm..just got back from a long session of lol'ing at the frame - no good.

Any other suggestions?
Well try it again maybe you didn't do it right . Tip: Eatadonut while in the act, your dropouts just may verbally thank you.

your frame isn't the problem, it's somewhere in the wheel or QR still. Take pics of both sides of the hub for us, without the QR. Go ahead and shoot a few of the QR closed while you're at it.

Well try it again maybe you didn't do it right . Tip: Eatadonut while in the act, your dropouts just may verbally thank you.

oh god-crumbs EVERYWHERE. This is a disaster!:( :( :(

your frame isn't the problem, it's somewhere in the wheel or QR still. Take pics of both sides of the hub for us, without the QR. Go ahead and shoot a few of the QR closed while you're at it.


OK, I got some blurry pics for the wheel that's on there now, so I'll have to redo those after breakfast. Here's what I have:

Sides of the old wheel:
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/kds.jpg
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/knds.jpg
Both sides at once - notice that there is one more thread on the top than on the bottom - I think that's probably close enough for government work. The threads do not stick out past the dropout.
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/bs.jpg

Here's a picture of the drive side, quick release tightened (pics without QR are being retaken)
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/ds.jpg

I don't know if this is weird, but this happens when I tighten the QR:
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/a.gif

EDIT: pics without QR:
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/lnq.jpg
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/rnq.jpg
http://students.ou.edu/C/Jeff.R.Carlsen-Landy-1/pics/ra.jpg

An update: there was a screwhead not flush with my new dropout. Filed it down, and that fixed the flexing problem. Wheel still pulls out. A guy on the mtbr forums mentioned his FSR had the same problem, his dropouts just got too messed up and he had to replace the rear triangle. Bummer.