Commuting - Mountain Bike Conversion

If anyone out there has some ideas/hints/suggestions for me that would be great.

I have recently relocated, and found that I can bike to/from work. It is about 26 miles totol, ~90% paved. I own a Mountain Bike (Schwinn Moab Disc II). I live in Salt Lake City where the trails are awesome, so I have no intention of investing in a road bike. So...I am planning on doing some "conversion" on my existing bike.

I am thinking that all I need to do is set up a 2nd set of wheels for "road-riding", and then just switch the wheels out when I am commuting. But...I would consider myself a novice, so I have no idea how to go about this. I have been searching the internet for any information, and cant seem to find anything, so any help would be great. Thanks.

I ride an old Trek 850 with Richie Tom slicks in the 1 inch size and do fine. No other mods to the bike other than double wrapped bar ends and rack.

Yeap, that's pretty much it ... I use my MTB for both commuting and trail riding and all I change are the tyres. Slicks for road (they're on most of the time), and knobbies for the trails. Other than that, I don't even have a rack! :p (too heavy heh)

A second set of wheels is a great idea. You may need to ensure disk-brake compatability, but otherwise its just swap and go.
You dont need top range components for commuting, but you do need good quality construction. Fit them with a good 1.25 to 1.5" wide slick tyre. My local bike shop built me some from Shimano Altus hubs, DT spokes and Mavic rims. Go to a bike shop where they have a good wheel-builder rather than use factory built wheels.

In a dry place like SLC, fenders are not mandatory, but if the roads are wet, they will keep you clean. If you have to carry heavy luggage, let the bike take the strain with a luggage rack and panniers.
Fit some reflectors, wear bright clothes, helmet and gloves. You may already use clipless pedals, but if your bike has plain platform pedals, fit some toe-clips for efficiency and safety.

Same here....road slicks for commuting and MB tires for the woods. But instead of two set of tires, I bought a second bike for the woods. Both are Trek 6500s. This works great. If I find a flat, I can switch wheels quickly.

I've been riding my Cannondale Jekyl to work for the past month or so with some IRC metro slicks. To get a second wheelset, I'd have to consider my lefty hub as well, so I just do the tires, but I'm seriously considering getting a roadie for a couple of reasons.

1) I hate riding my baby to work even though I have a pretty good place to keep her

2) The ride would go a lot faster on larger wheels and a lighter bike

3) You don't have to worry about continually switching pieces. Start adding up pieces you buy to commute and the time you spend switching back and forth, and it may seem logical to start saving for another bike.

Pure roadie race bikes are not ideal for commutes either. You need to ensure tyre clearance for winter tyres (up to 28mm here in the UK) and fenders, and rack/fender eyelets on the frame. Somewhere between an MTB and a racing bike is the ideal commuter, hence the popularity of touring style bikes amongst hardcore all-weather commuters.

Whoops! I forgot about the fenders.:rolleyes: Planet Bike clip on design for narrow tires.

I took this bike on a little ride last night and I still have trouble beleaving that my average speed when I get home is within 2 mph average speed of my road bike! My plans for further mods do include drop bars. I have been saving parts for some time to do this conversion. If I can just find a set of 7 speed bar end shifters for a reasonable price I'll be set to go to drop bars.
Do understand that I ride this bike almost exclusivly on asphault.

For the best user experience, a convertible bike must have 2 sets of wheels. You will quickly come to dread changing the rubber.

For your disk-equipped bike, I would stick with the same type of hub and rotors, while the spokes and rims can be different.

My short commute (6 miles one way) is fine with a messenger bag. Longer rides, or days when I have more to carry, I use my rear rack.

Check the laws for your area. Most require reflectors that mountain bikers usually remove from their trail bikes.

Fenders are up to you... a backscratcher seatpost mount in th eback and a deflector on the downtube might suffice. Personally, I like a dedicated commuter with full fenders 'cause it rains in the winter/spring in the Bay Area.

Have fun!

yes a second set of wheels is a good idea... but I also swapped to a bigger crankset/chainwheel. 52T-42T and to Aluminum(non-suspension) fork. With this, I can go faster and more efficiently... Its like a roadbike with 26" wheels and a flatbar... I use 1"tires.

I would like to recommend dropbars, they are very comfortable. Go with regular platform pedals, makes it easy to ride in different shoes when the weather changes. Go for bar end shifters, they are easy to use and does not interfear with a barbag like STI can do. And as earlier said, slicks. Use regular cantilever brakes, as they provide the right cable pull for road brakelevers. Welcome to take a look at my converted Cannondale MTB which I use for commuting and touring. Works great.

http://www.karlstam.com

Good luck

Anders

Blackgold,

If your Schwinn Moab has disc brakes, then Mavic makes a set of 700c wheels called SpeedCity that fit on a 26" mountain bike. They are designed for commuting and road riding. All you need is a second set of disc brake rotors and a rear cassette. Swap them in. Swap them out. Or, you can swap your rotors and cassette every time which will take some time, but can easily be done.

I have a pair I use for commuting and road riding on my Trek 8000 with Avid disc brakes. I have the Specialized Infinity 700c X 38mm tires which is about as large as my frame and fork will take. Swap time for the wheelset is less than 1 minute for me and off I go to work. Cost is $360 - 420+ by the time you add in the extra set of brake rotors and an additional cassette. Check out Mavic.com and look under SpeedCity wheels.

The other solution (at a much lower cost) involves changing tires (probably a 10 - 20 minute ordeal) from your off road tires to some slicks. I am partial to the Schwable Big Apple 26" X 2.35 city commute tires that I use on other bikes for commuting around town. They are fat with lots of volume which provides wonderful suspension - yet they really roll well. Incredible tire with a mounted up circumference of 2127mm. Compare that to a 770c X 23-28mm wide road set up and you will find you are on as big a circumference as a road bike - but you are still on your 26" wheels and easily handling cobblestone, curbs, rail tracks, pot holes, grates with no fear!!!!!

Regardless, there are plenty of slicks available from 1.25 to 2.35 widths from various vendors to outfit a 26" wheeled mountain bike.

BB

Bruce
Now that you have a bike which can take both 700c and 26", is there any real difference when you have comparable tyres on. I dont think there is much point comparing a 23mm road tyre with a 2.35" MTB slick, they are so different, but Im talking about a typical (UK) commuter 28 to 32mm for 700c vs a fast 1.5" MTB slick.

"Now that you have a bike which can take both 700c and 26", is there any real difference when you have comparable tyres on. I dont think there is much point comparing a 23mm road tyre with a 2.35" MTB slick, they are so different, but Im talking about a typical (UK) commuter 28 to 32mm for 700c vs a fast 1.5" MTB slick."

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Yes, there is a real difference between the 700c and the 26" for commute purposes when I have comparable tires (or tyres in your case). I use 38mm tires on the SpeedCity wheelset. When using comparable width tires on the 26" wheels - 700c rims tend to absorb or soak up more of the shock if one's commute happens to include surfaces that need soaking up (potholes, rail tracks, cobblestone, etc...). Once again - that is when compared to running a narrower slick on a 26" wheel. The harshness is "less" with the larger sized rims runing similar width tires. The smaller wheel accelerates quicker, but the larger wheel holds its line and really rolls once up to speed. Either works and both have their pros/cons.

The comparison of the Big Apple 2.35 in the 26" version with a road tire of 23 - 28mm had to do with the reality that rolling circumference is the same. In other words - how far does the wheel travel in one revolution. 2127mm is the answer. Since the Mavic SpeedCity wheelset sets one back nearly 400 Euro - or dollars - I mentioned the Big Apples because it is a way to get a good suspension with the same rolling circumference without having to buy a new set of chi-chi wheels. The ride is a lot more comfy on a 26" set of wheels with the 2.35 slicks than when running 1.25 - 1.50 slicks. And the rolling circumference gives you more roll per pedal stroke due to the additional circumference size than a 26" wheel with the 1.25 - 1.50 slicks.

It's all out there for trial. I, obviously, have not performed any kind of testing data on the differences between the options. I have many tires and several different wheelsets. And I enjoy them all.

BB

I am going to start commuting myself (haven't ridden a bike since college 5 years ago). Not a long commute - only 3-4 miles each way, and it won't be everyday because I work at client's offices quite a bit and have to carry my laptop and files and such, so I will really only be able to commute I am working in the office.

I am going to buy a mountain bike off craigslist tomorrow. Right now, my immediate plans are to change out the tires for something skinnier and add a rear rack. I will probably just plan on avoiding wet weather until I get some fenders. I won't be doing any trail riding, so there doesn't seem to be any need to set up two sets of wheels.

The main thing I am worried about it is if there is anything I'm forgetting as far as immediate changes, and also what my next steps should be as far as turning a mountain bike into something suitable for both a short commute and possibly some longer rides as I get into the sport.

Thanks for your help.

I am going to start commuting myself (haven't ridden a bike since college 5 years ago). Not a long commute - only 3-4 miles each way, and it won't be everyday because I work at client's offices quite a bit and have to carry my laptop and files and such, so I will really only be able to commute I am working in the office.

I am going to buy a mountain bike off craigslist tomorrow. Right now, my immediate plans are to change out the tires for something skinnier and add a rear rack. I will probably just plan on avoiding wet weather until I get some fenders. I won't be doing any trail riding, so there doesn't seem to be any need to set up two sets of wheels.

The main thing I am worried about it is if there is anything I'm forgetting as far as immediate changes, and also what my next steps should be as far as turning a mountain bike into something suitable for both a short commute and possibly some longer rides as I get into the sport.

Thanks for your help.

I don't think you are forgetting anything. You will be fine just switching tires and adding a rack.
Of course you should ensure that everything is in good working order when you have bought a used bike: Wheels true, gears and breaks adjusted, everything lubed etc.
If you are not so comfortable doing such things for yourself you should have a LBS have a look at the bike.

Please tell us what you buy from Craiglist and remember that we love pictures :p

I did the second set of wheels thing for a few years. It was easier that switching tires on the same set of wheels.
The one thing you need to remember about a second set of wheels is that you need to wear the gears down at the same rate on both sets of wheels or you will find one set will be skipping teeth as its' its gears are more worn than the other.

I don't think you are forgetting anything. You will be fine just switching tires and adding a rack.
Of course you should ensure that everything is in good working order when you have bought a used bike: Wheels true, gears and breaks adjusted, everything lubed etc.
If you are not so comfortable doing such things for yourself you should have a LBS have a look at the bike.

Please tell us what you buy from Craiglist and remember that we love pictures :p

It's a Schwinn Frontier. He says he paid $400 in '99 and I am buying it for $80. I am supposed to pick it up today after work. He says it's been recently tuned up, but I will probably let a LBS look at it or see if a friend of mine that's into cycling can take a look.

I will post some pictures once I change the tires and add the rack. I am planning to order them online and install myself. The rack should be easy, and I need to learn to deal with tires and tubes anyway.

It's a Schwinn Frontier. He says he paid $400 in '99 and I am buying it for $80. I am supposed to pick it up today after work. He says it's been recently tuned up, but I will probably let a LBS look at it or see if a friend of mine that's into cycling can take a look.

I will post some pictures once I change the tires and add the rack. I am planning to order them online and install myself. The rack should be easy, and I need to learn to deal with tires and tubes anyway.

Congratulations with the bike! :thumb:
I think the seller is not very accurate with the original price:
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999&Brand=Schwinn&Model=Frontier+GS&Type=bike
Perhaps you can ask him and perhaps he will lower the price? Still I think 80$ is not a bad deal if it is in good shape.
The frame is good if you like the fit and geometry. Components can be replaced if (when) they fail.
You can commute happily on this bike for years :D

I am going to start commuting myself (haven't ridden a bike since college 5 years ago). Not a long commute - only 3-4 miles each way, and it won't be everyday because I work at client's offices quite a bit and have to carry my laptop and files and such, so I will really only be able to commute I am working in the office.

I am going to buy a mountain bike off craigslist tomorrow. Right now, my immediate plans are to change out the tires for something skinnier and add a rear rack. I will probably just plan on avoiding wet weather until I get some fenders. I won't be doing any trail riding, so there doesn't seem to be any need to set up two sets of wheels.

The main thing I am worried about it is if there is anything I'm forgetting as far as immediate changes, and also what my next steps should be as far as turning a mountain bike into something suitable for both a short commute and possibly some longer rides as I get into the sport.

Thanks for your help.

It would be easy to get the impression from glancing over this forum that commuting is more complex than it really is. There's a lot of discussion about particular types of bikes, accessories, and even clothing.

When it comes right down to it, it's just riding a bike and your bike will be fine. As you spend more time on it you'll figure out what, if any, changes are important to make.

Are you willing to part with the money to get another bike?

If you're locking your bike up and have the money and storage space for another bike that can have slick tires mounted full time and as well be low-grade enough that it would be less eye-catching and attractive to thieves, do that.

Get an old hardtail off craigslist, put some slicks on it, done.

The C'dale Bay Boy Ultra is mearly their Caffiene Mtb frame and headshock with 700c wheels.

I bought the F3 and put Maxxis Holy Rollers on mine. Between the streets and my vision, skinny tires are not my friend. To bridge the gap, I have been playing with the idea of getting a 650b wheelset sporting 650bx38 or 40 tires. Making more of a 650Bad Boy or sorts.

I got the bike yesterday. I went ahead and paid $80 for it because it seemed to ride well, I hadn't seen anything else on craigslist that fit my needs and price range, and it looked like he added some components to improve it over the stock bike - fork, brakes, maybe derailer. Also, the tires are in between knobbies and slicks, so I think I can probably avoid the expense of new tires - at least until I get serious about it.

I went for a ride this morning. I estimate it was about 2.5-3.5 miles. The bike handled it better than I did (gotta lose some weight). I did ride down to an LBS and looked around at racks, panniers, fenders, etc. I got a rack and a kickstand. I get the impression that "serious" cyclists don't use kickstands, but it's a $10 solution to the problem of the bike falling over all the time. The rack is axiom transit - $35. It says it can carry up to 60 kgs/130 lbs, which seems to be an overstatement, but it will more than suit my needs if it can carry half that (again, my fitness level puts a lower limit on the amount of stuff I can carry than the rack does).

Anyway, pictures attached. The fork you can see. The brakes are tektro. The derailer is shimano acera.

The next phase of the project is getting some panniers. There are a lot of choices out there. Right now, I think I can get by with bungies and an old messenger-style bag I have for a while. I think I may make my own panniers. It seems like the ones that are available in the under $50 range have problems attaching to the rack, and it seems like any container or bag could be turned into a pannier with some cheap hardware and a little ingenuity. I will be sure to let you guys know how that goes.

Also depends on your off road trail, the trail I use is pretty easy and not that technical and although there has been a couple of hairy moments my Geax Evolutions, (semi-slicks), roll well on the trail and the road.

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/Tire/geax/evolution/PRD_359002_151crx.aspx

http://www.nashbar.com/images/nashbar/products/medium/GE-EVO-NCL-TREAD.jpg

I worked on my hybrid today. I got lucky and found and old Ross 10-speed that had drop bars with the same diameter as my hybrid. So I swapped the bars and replaced the cables and housings. The rapid file shift/brake combo units are mounted with the brake lever positioned just like a road bike. The shifter paddles work fine surprisingly. I like this hybrid because of the 700c wheels and suspension fork and seat post - very humane for NE roads post-winter.