Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Lights? Batts or Gen?

I was wondering what lighting systems seem to be the most effective for long distance riding. Is anyone using the Shimono Nexus Hub generator? It seems that if it were capable of meeting the power requirements that it might be effective, no batteries. Any specific recommendations on lights or systems that provide enough of not enough light for safe riding?

There aren't really any standard power requirements for riding long distances at night. I suppose you can check the traffic/highway laws for the area where you'll be cycling ... that would be the only thing in print regarding requirements.

And practically any bicycle light will qualify. There were cyclists on the PBP with flashlights for headlights!!

So, yes, the Shimano Nexus should be find.

Personally, I've gone through several different types of battery lights, which were OK, but I currently have a Schmidt dynohub, which is better.

I was wondering what lighting systems seem to be the most effective for long distance riding. Is anyone using the Shimono Nexus Hub generator? It seems that if it were capable of meeting the power requirements that it might be effective, no batteries. Any specific recommendations on lights or systems that provide enough of not enough light for safe riding? You might want to take a pass through the hub generator article (http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/VBQgenerator.pdf) at Vintage Bike Quarterly. Peter White's site (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm) has a very thorough review of lights on the market, both battery operated and generator. Also, the Blayleys (http://www.blayleys.com/articles/lights/index.htm) have some decent thoughts about lighting based on their PBP and randoneering experience.

For what it's worth, my advice is that it depends on three factors: ambient lighting for your regular routes, how long you're planning on riding at night and, of course, budget. If you're riding through a lot of back country and farmland and/or mountains and hilly terrain, you're going to need beefier lights than if you were just, say, riding through urban and suburban streets, where street lighting can be a frequent occurence. If you're just planning on doing a one-off night ride or commuting into the evening, you can get away with a lot less than someone who's doing multiple stints of all-night riding, like PBP or another 1200k.

Generator lights are, in general more expensive, because you usually have to build a new wheel around the generator; and even savings on batteries probably won't match the price difference unless you use the light a lot, but the generator has intangible benefits like consistent performance regardless of temperature or running time. However, people have and do complete long distance events with nothing more than a couple of Cateye HL500 LED battery lights. You can formulate strategies to address all kinds of equipment combinations.

Generally, the wisdom on generators is that the Shimano Nexus is not a bad choice, but it isn't quite as efficient as the Schmidt dynamo generator. At half the price of the Schmidt, it's an attractive option for budget riders, but if you're a slower rider, you might want to minimize the drag. In all cases, with generator lights, you should also have a supplemental battery powered LED light for illumination when you're stopped or slowed down (ie. mountain ascents, roadside repairs, etc.) There are generator lights that have a standlight option that will continue to run on a capacitor after you're stopped, but I tend to prefer having a helmet mounted LED for added road visibility and also for reading my instruments and/or cue sheet at night.

I was wondering what lighting systems seem to be the most effective for long distance riding?Which ever two or three systems you pick.

Most people agree, to be fully prepared, you need a fully redundant bicycle mounted system and at least one accessory, utility light. Often, a helmet light is used as a hand/flash light.

I was wondering what lighting systems seem to be the most effective for long distance riding. Is anyone using the Shimono Nexus Hub generator? It seems that if it were capable of meeting the power requirements that it might be effective, no batteries. Any specific recommendations on lights or systems that provide enough of not enough light for safe riding?

I am a happy owner of the nexus 3n-71 hub and it is just great. I know it is not quite as efficient as the schmidt but after consulting with Sheldon Brown who owns both I determined the difference was not enough for me to worry about paying the extra $150. I built my own wheels out of the hub and have a few thousand miles on it so far and it has worked flawlessly. I have a homebrew LED light hooked up similar to the Solid lights solution but with 2 more LEDs (based on K2 LEDs and it is as bright as the guys with the schmidts but over a longer area and it lights up signs much better in my opinion). Anyway, don't want to sound like a infomercial here but I am very happy with the shimano generator and even did a 5 hour century with it where the first 2 hours were in the dark so it does not slow you down much.

I use a PrincetonTec eos on my helmet as a backup light. On it's lowest setting I can use it to see my bike computer and get many many more hours out of the batteries. If I had to rely on it solely I would slow way down but I think my speed could still be over the 10 mph minimum with it so it is a good backup I figure.

Battery tends to be sufficient, even for long and dark night ride like PBP. This year, I intend to ride PBP one with my 2003 Cateye HL500 LED for base lighting, together with a head mounted powerful Petzl LED (maps and repairs, odometer, spare light and increased light downhill) and a new Cateye HL530 for downhill. I plan not to install the 3W generator this time

Really good information esp. provided links, thanks. My experiences so far have been less than encouraging. I was by no means using high quality gear but was left with the impression that night riding was not for me. I was really interested to hear what has been successful combinations for you.

I have a Schmidt dynohub wheel that I've used once. I've found that for the amount of night riding I do an LED light works best. I also have a Petzel Headlamp which is great for illuminating the 'cockpit' at night.

I have a Schmidt dynohub wheel that I've used once. I've found that for the amount of night riding I do an LED light works best. I also have a Petzel Headlamp which is great for illuminating the 'cockpit' at night.

It does depend how powerful you want the light to be- and how much you want to spend. My night riding is Covered at present by two lights- One a Powerful twin 5 w led that will blind at 100 yards, and as backup a cateye EL300. If I were to do more nightriding- then I would be going for a hub generator for consistency but there would always be a battery lamp back there aswell. Then again- the most useful lamp I use on a ride is a helmet lamp. Ideal for map reading or doing repairs on the bike and it looks round corners aswell.(Or at least that is what is seems like when you want to look at something other than straight ahead)

What was wrong with the generators that mounted on the seat stay and were spun by the tire (or clicked out of the way when not needed) that they've disappeared? You would think the $20 compelte lighting sets (front, rear, generator, wires, mounting) from Schwinn of 25 years ago could have been improved considerably by now and provide another affordable option.

What was wrong with the generators that mounted on the seat stay and were spun by the tire (or clicked out of the way when not needed) that they've disappeared? You would think the $20 compelte lighting sets (front, rear, generator, wires, mounting) from Schwinn of 25 years ago could have been improved considerably by now and provide another affordable option.

There are some bottle generators made but they are not cheap, are considerably less efficient than a hub generator when in use, and hard to find in the US.

Some of the links provided by Spokenword also addressed the fact that some of these generators that ride against the tire could cause high tire wear and have reduced efficency when wet. As thin as my tires are I would not want anything rubbing against them, but this may not be a major problem, I have know first hand experience.

Some of the links provided by Spokenword also addressed the fact that some of these generators that ride against the tire could cause high tire wear and have reduced efficency when wet. As thin as my tires are I would not want anything rubbing against them, but this may not be a major problem, I have know first hand experience.

I do have quite a bit of first hand experience with that type of generator, and I can tell you that when it is wet, they are useless. If you get caught out in a rain in the middle of the night, you will have to have a backup light.

I have a seatstay mounted Union brand generator on my "urban" bike (a 3 speed from the early '90s) which I frequently ride at night. The generator has never worn the tire out, nor has it ever slipped in the rain. It has slipped a little when riding in snow. It does create some drag, but it is hardly noticable and well worth not having to worry about batteries. My generator cost about $40. You can order them from several of the online bike shops.

I never had tire wear issues except if rough roads caused it to slip out of position so the edge, rather than the flat part, rubbed against skinwall tires. The drag was barely perceptible, but unlike a hub you can swing it out of the way when you don't need it. That, and the far greater ease of installation (clamp it on vs. build a wheel) I would have thought would make them appealing alternatives to hub generators, which is why I'm surprised they're almost extinct in the U.S. I barely used them in the rain, though, so can't speak to slippage being a problem. Perhaps they don't put out enough juice?

How long do you ride in the dark? and how bright of a light do you need? Once you answer these questions then listen to Machka, she's for real and she has extensive experience in riding long distances at night, she will be more then able to answer these questions.

I've never used a generator type of light and only seen one on the road, and can tell you it was no where near as bright as my 12 watt Cygolite that was running at 6 watts at the time. BUT, I don't know what kind of generator he was using but it was a hub unit; if he wasn't using a Schmidt dynohub maybe it would be brighter?

I recently got a very interesting Spanninga generator light set on Ebay. It has a nice halogen headlight, LED taillight, and a hub-mounted dymamo built by Pioneer. Impressive quality for the price I paid. You mount the dynamo on the left side of a derailleur hub. But I haven't mounted mine.

I also got a Schwinn bottle dynamo set --dynamo, headlight, and taillight-- at Target for ten bucks that I put on a cheapo folding bike; not deluxe, but well worth the price.

Another option worth looking at is the new Sturmey-Archer dynamo hub with drum brake. It's more like the Nexus hub than the old Sturmey-Archer dynamo hubs.

AFAIK all the bicycle dynamo's, whether hub, BB- or tire- mounted, are rated 6V 3W. The amount of light they put out depends on the bulbs / LED's.

AFAIK all the bicycle dynamo's, whether hub, BB- or tire- mounted, are rated 6V 3W. The amount of light they put out depends on the bulbs / LED's.

There are some 12V bottle dynamos but they are not common and may not be available in the US.

I haven't had much trouble this winter since switching to new LED headlights and lamps. I rarely need to switch over to the halogen, and the btty's are lasting a LOT longer than they did in the days before LED.

I haven't had much trouble this winter since switching to new LED headlights and lamps. I rarely need to switch over to the halogen, and the btty's are lasting a LOT longer than they did in the days before LED.

In this day and age of high power LEDs, I've been wondering why anyone would use a generator at all any more. For what you can spend on a Schmidt generator hub and wheel, you could buy a heck of an LED system that would put out way more light. Yes, you'd have to deal with batteries and there is a limit to how long they can be used but with LEDs, that can be on the order of 10 hours at full power and days at lowered power. You can get an emitter system from Nitehawk for $99. With 3 of them you could really light up the road and go nearly forever.;)

In this day and age of high power LEDs, I've been wondering why anyone would use a generator at all any more....
The nice thing about generators is that they are always there. You don't have to remember to bring the light with you, or charge or replace your batteries. If you get caught at work by a deadline or an opportunity for a drink with friends, or if you can't get started on a long ride until late in the afternoon, or if you don't make it to your camp site before dark, you don't have to worry about it -- the light is part of the bike. I find this really liberating, and worth the initial cost. And you can get some nice LED headlights that run off the generator, if you want to maximize the light for your watts.

There are some 12V bottle dynamos but they are not common and may not be available in the US.
here is the 12 volt: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dymotec.asp

The nice thing about generators is that they are always there. You don't have to remember to bring the light with you, or charge or replace your batteries. If you get caught at work by a deadline or an opportunity for a drink with friends, or if you can't get started on a long ride until late in the afternoon, or if you don't make it to your camp site before dark, you don't have to worry about it -- the light is part of the bike. I find this really liberating, and worth the initial cost. And you can get some nice LED headlights that run off the generator, if you want to maximize the light for your watts.

I was thinking more in terms of randoneuring where you know that you are going to need lights rather than for day-to-day use.

For me, the "always there" is beneficial in more than one way. Besides, there are a few cost-related issues.

– The average lifespan of a lightbulb is supposed to be 100-125 hours (i.e. the same as a typical NR-11). In practice, I burn an average of 1 bulb per 1.5 years. That's the extent of my autonomy.

– The autonomy of halogen systems is simply appaling. When I used one, the 2-3 hour autonomy meant that I had to carefully plan my rides to make sure I would be home in time. Even the 10-12 hour autonomy of high-power LED systems is minimalist, because it means I have to plan charging quite often. While I don't do overnighters, I very often ride 2-4 hours at nighttime (mostly in town but also on dark roads), so that would mean charging the batteries two or three times a week.
By the way, my taillights and safety headlight have an autonomy of about 8-12 hours when I use rechargeable batteries, and I find it acceptable only because I have multiple units. When I commute in the dark, at least once a week I arrive home with one dim taillight. Far from ideal. By contrast, the generator-powered headlight is always working.

- Rechargeable batteries loose 1/2 to 2/3 of their autonomy in the cold. So if you ride at -20 C, get home ASAP!

– The battery pack needs to be replaced every 2-3 years depending on use. That's a major recurring expense. Whereas a battery system needs a 50-100 $ battery pack every 2-3 years, the generator system needs a 5 $ bulb every year and a half.

– With very few exceptions, "High-power" LED systems that use AA batteries are not brighter than a DLumotec or Schmidt E-6 headlight.

– Unfortunately, almost all battery-system headlights sold in North America are designed for offroading. They use a round spot so half the light is lost in the sky. This is why the 3-W Lumotec is about as good as an 8 W MR-11 light and why the 3-W E-6 is even more effective. Considering that high-power LED systems have 3 W or 5 W maximum and that it's not a focussed headlight, the E-6 is actually more useful.
On the other hand, if you cycle on winding trails or – worst – offroad, then the Lumotec or E-6 are too focussed and won't illuminate the trail adequately.


What's the way of the future? Two ideas:
– For those who like battery-operated systems, a LED headlight with a tightly focussed beam. The Ixon already exists, but imagine such a headlight, but with a 3 W LED rather than a 1 W LED. Based on current data, you would then 50-60 lx on axis and yet, you would NOT blind oncoming drivers.
– For those who like generator-based systems, a LED headlight in a good reflector. Right now, the DLumotec has only 1 W, which probably was limited by what was available 1-2 years ago and by the fact it is powered by alternative current (i.e. only 1/2 wave is in the proper direction). What if electronics improved and we could design a 2 W headlight? Or even a 3 W one? With a great reflector like the E-6?

I have a vintage Schwinn Approved Miller 6 volt generator light set, a modern Tung Lin 12 volt set, and a new Schwinn 6 volt set. The 12 volt is a little brighter, but they are all good enough for getting home if I am later than I planned. Haven't noticed any slippage, but haven't ridden in rain much, either. I also carry a couple of blinkies, so I can be seen when stopped. The drag is quite noticeable. If I plan on a night ride, I slip an LED light into the bar mount and use that as the main light. I also carry a cheap head mounted light for a spare and emergency repairs. A quick search on fleabay will turn up some new generator lights starting at about $20.00.

The nice thing about generators is that they are always there. You don't have to remember to bring the light with you, or charge or replace your batteries. If you get caught at work by a deadline or an opportunity for a drink with friends, or if you can't get started on a long ride until late in the afternoon, or if you don't make it to your camp site before dark, you don't have to worry about it -- the light is part of the bike. I find this really liberating, and worth the initial cost. And you can get some nice LED headlights that run off the generator, if you want to maximize the light for your watts.

I would add to that, that on a human powered vehicle there's something nice and right about also having human powered lighting.

But at least for me this is a tertiary factor.

I would add to that, that on a human powered vehicle there's something nice and right about also having human powered lighting.

Right on! With my dynamos, I make my own electricity. I don't use batteries. I don't support the chemical industry. I don't create waste that, at best, will be difficult and expensive to recycle.

Batteries are, of course, cheap, plentiful, and available in bewildering variety. It's because of the economics of scale. Dynamos are expensive, rare, and only a few models available. Again, economics of scale. The world would be a better place if we could reverse this dynamic. Yes, I know, I am naive to think one or two bicyclists will tip the balance one way or another; even so, it strikes me as the right thing to do.

Right on! With my dynamos, I make my own electricity. I don't use batteries. I don't support the chemical industry. I don't create waste that, at best, will be difficult and expensive to recycle.

Batteries are, of course, cheap, plentiful, and available in bewildering variety. It's because of the economics of scale. Dynamos are expensive, rare, and only a few models available. Again, economics of scale. The world would be a better place if we could reverse this dynamic. Yes, I know, I am naive to think one or two bicyclists will tip the balance one way or another; even so, it strikes me as the right thing to do.

c'mon... you're goin' extreme with the "save the world" stuff. You didn't "grow your bike" in the garden did you? I guess your trying to make me feel guilty for using rechargeable batteries. I don't give a second thought to riding my bike because it's good for the environment. I ride cuz it's fun. I like the convenience and availability of batteries. It's just nice to see in the dark.

I guess your trying to make me feel guilty for using rechargeable batteries.
You bet I am -- is it working?
Seriously, though, don't feel guilty about a thing. You're riding, I'm glad you're riding at night, I'm glad your batteries are rechargable, and so on. You are clearly part of the solution.
But if anyone wants to know, dynamos are great, everyone should have one, and I'm glad more merchants are selling them.


You didn't "grow your bike" in the garden did you?
No, but I try. I keep planting those little round seeds I found in the BB, but I can't get them to germinate. Maybe I'm "watering" them with the wrong kind of oil? Any suggestions?

fertalize with ground up rebar.

You bet I am -- is it working?
Seriously, though, don't feel guilty about a thing. You're riding, I'm glad you're riding at night, I'm glad your batteries are rechargable, and so on. You are clearly part of the solution.
But if anyone wants to know, dynamos are great, everyone should have one, and I'm glad more merchants are selling them.


No, but I try. I keep planting those little round seeds I found in the BB, but I can't get them to germinate. Maybe I'm "watering" them with the wrong kind of oil? Any suggestions?


My headlight pattern is shaped like Al Gore!

I was thinking more in terms of randoneuring where you know that you are going to need lights rather than for day-to-day use.

I disagree, and think that generators are of tremendous benefit on randonneur events.

Batteries add an unnecessary degree of logistical complexity. You can't leave your lights on by accident, and you have to remember to recharge/replace dead batteries. What if you run out in the middle of nowhere? What if your drop bag isn't where it's supposed to be? What if you can't find your money to buy new batteries? What if you lose your spares? A generator eliminates all of these problems, and frees up your mind to think about riding and eating.

Sure, plenty of folks ride big brevets with battery systems. When asked why, they almost always bring up cost. Let's not even factor in the cost of batteries, ask yourself this: if you run out of batteries in the middle of nowhere on an important event, what would you be willing to spend then to have a generator?

Also, it's true that many LED systems are very bright and "light up the road". Well, that's not always the best thing for night visibility. A very bright, focused beam with sharp cutoffs may cause you to see very little outside the lit patch.

All I can say is that on night rides, I find a lot of riders with battery systems riding behind me.

Another thing: I've never met a randonneur who sold their Schmidt dynohub, looking for something better.

Sure, folks experiment with different light setups (mounting position, Lumotec vs. E6, single vs. dual lights, etc.), but the dynohub stays. Nobody complains about drag either.

Aside from the right saddle and a good bag, I can't think of money better spent for a rando rig.

Another thing: I've never met a randonneur who sold their Schmidt dynohub, looking for something better.

Sure, folks experiment with different light setups (mounting position, Lumotec vs. E6, single vs. dual lights, etc.), but the dynohub stays. Nobody complains about drag either.

Aside from the right saddle and a good bag, I can't think of money better spent for a rando rig.


I have to say that I have bought many lights since starting Randonneuring ranging from LEDs to HIDs and think I have found the holy grail in my Dynamo LED setup that I currently am using. Not being battery dependent is a great load off my mind. It is also a LOT lighter than carrying around enough rechargeables to keep that HID cooking all night.

Incidentally the Shimano Hub has been very satisfactory to me on the 300 and 400ks this year and is much cheaper than the schmidt. Not to Poo poo the schmidt, I would buy it if I had the extra cash but find the Shimano to be an adequate substitute

What's the way of the future? Two ideas:
– For those who like battery-operated systems, a LED headlight with a tightly focussed beam. The Ixon already exists, but imagine such a headlight, but with a 3 W LED rather than a 1 W LED. Based on current data, you would then 50-60 lx on axis and yet, you would NOT blind oncoming drivers.
– For those who like generator-based systems, a LED headlight in a good reflector. Right now, the DLumotec has only 1 W, which probably was limited by what was available 1-2 years ago and by the fact it is powered by alternative current (i.e. only 1/2 wave is in the proper direction). What if electronics improved and we could design a 2 W headlight? Or even a 3 W one? With a great reflector like the E-6?


My setup uses a dual K2 led which is roughly equivalent to a Luxeon 5. I had it using 4 but when half the light broke off on the 400k due to a chain coming off (I have remedied that design flaw in the current light) I found that the dual light was pretty much as bright as the 4 with the LED driver circuit I was using so I figure less is better and I can haul a spare setup in case something goes wrong with the first as it weighs pretty much nothing and is easy to afix to my recumbent. If anyone is interested I have details on my blog- randocommute.blogspot.com
It is under the "plans" category. I don't have instruction for the 2 K2 light on there but the main difference is I aligned the 2 K2s vertically to allow room for the chain to slip off without affecting the light. This is the setup I will use on the 600k next week.

Incidentally the light cost roughly $35 dollars to make and rivals my HID though it is not as bright but has a better beam focus.

Incidentally the Shimano Hub has been very satisfactory to me on the 300 and 400ks this year and is much cheaper than the schmidt. Not to Poo poo the schmidt, I would buy it if I had the extra cash but find the Shimano to be an adequate substitute

I've heard it said that the Shimano is slightly less efficient than the Schmidt, but I think that they have improved significantly since I bought my Schmidt four years ago. I'd never talk someone out of a shimano either.

If anyone is interested I have details on my blog- randocommute.blogspot.com
It is under the "plans" category.

OK, I want to look at the diy led info, but I can't find it on your blog page... I went to randocommute.blogspot.com , but I don't see anything about plans or categories. Any idea
what's up?

Thanks,
Brad

I am just a commuter, but my setup is as follows.

5W led (cateye HL-EL220) runs on 4AA (60 hour max)
10W halogen MR16 bulb, run off a 60Whour NiMH batterpack (2lbs) (6 hour max)

I use the 10W most of the time, but have the 5W Cateye LED for backup, usually just flashing for visibility during commuting.

I am looking into doing some of these long distance tours, and think my setup should be OK, although, I may carry along an extra 60Whr battery pack, or drop off point, if I'm planning to rdie through the nite.

Also, never had any issues using my battery light setup in my commuting.

SharpT

I am just a commuter, but my setup is as follows.

5W led (cateye HL-EL220) runs on 4AA (60 hour max)
10W halogen MR16 bulb, run off a 60Whour NiMH batterpack (2lbs) (6 hour max)

I use the 10W most of the time, but have the 5W Cateye LED for backup, usually just flashing for visibility during commuting.

I am looking into doing some of these long distance tours, and think my setup should be OK, although, I may carry along an extra 60Whr battery pack, or drop off point, if I'm planning to rdie through the nite.

Also, never had any issues using my battery light setup in my commuting.

SharpT

Before setting out on an all night brevet with your setup, make sure there is a bag drop available. In my neck of the woods (Dallas area) we have no bag drops on our rides. On our 600K route, you do return to the start about halfway so you have access, but otherwise, you are on your own. For us, it's either carry what you need or buy it along the way.

I know other RBAs do things differently, so be sure you know the deal beforehand.

I keep planting those little round seeds I found in the BB, but I can't get them to germinate. I suggest growing carbon plants and then harvesting the fibers ;)

To CAP some of the comments... Remember the title of this section is "long distance cycling" So that includes not only randonneuring but also ultra marathon racing, and long distance touring?

So to use that for the base of my following comments here goes:

1) For the 24 hours of Sebring I use 3hour HID battery packs. The track has power so my team plugs in chargers and so I just have to come in around 2.5 hours to swap out the batteries.

2) For Randonneuring you can nearly get away with most any kind of lighting depending on your comfort level. The laws typically require very low (be seen) lighting. And if you are willing to ride slower you can use fairly low lights. In the past I've used #dual Cateye HL500s#Dual Cateye EL500s#Single HID light with 3 battery packs (this works on the 400k where I really only needed two 3-hour batteries and the 3rd was an emergency battery wasn't fully charged backup... And lastly I'm running with the Schmidt hub.

Of all of these the HID is the easiest on the eyes... Sure I could use a flashlight but brighter lights are less eye-strain and therefore better to keep away the weary-eyes-sleeping-running-off-road issues. But the HID requires the most weight and money to handle lighting for the longer randonneuring rides. The Schmidt hub is actually better in brightness (dual E6 lights) than the EL500s/520s and other 10hour LED lights so they are less eye-strain.

Bottom line... If you are using drop-bags you can probably get away with using 10W+ halogens or HIDs and battery packs (spares in your drop bags)... If you don't want to or believe in them and want the best light wo the eyestrain then the dyno-hub lights are the best bet.

3) Touring. I used dual EL500s for crossing the USA in 2004 and because they were only used for emergency (rode from sunrise to sunset but on occasion ran into riding in the dark to make a town or used them as BE-SEEN lights in bad weather. The HUB woulda been better because I would not need to buy batteries along the way... Actually I've started working on a charging circuit for the hub to power a battery charger for the GPS and LED tail light (and cell phone) so I won't need to buy batteries for those devices either...

Bottom line IMHO is to buy the brightest light that will go the distance... Be that HID or hub-gen depends more specifically on the application but if you can use a HID or 10w+ halogen then go that way... Else the next in the line of light choices is the hub-gen with dual E6 lights...

I am just a commuter, but my setup is as follows.

5W led (cateye HL-EL220) runs on 4AA (60 hour max)
10W halogen MR16 bulb, run off a 60Whour NiMH batterpack (2lbs) (6 hour max)

I use the 10W most of the time, but have the 5W Cateye LED for backup, usually just flashing for visibility during commuting.

I am looking into doing some of these long distance tours, and think my setup should be OK, although, I may carry along an extra 60Whr battery pack, or drop off point, if I'm planning to rdie through the nite.

Also, never had any issues using my battery light setup in my commuting.

SharpT

The EL defn isn't a 5W light. It has 5 LEDs, I think in total they use about 1W.

I have a K2 Luxeon with a 6degree lens. The manufacturer calls it a 5W LED, but at the recommended current of 1A it is actually 3.47W.

This gives off around the same amount of light as a 20W halogen bulb.

I'm going by the totally unscientific comparison of shining them across a field at night.

Reading this, I am just confused at the moment. I'm now looking into an alternative to purchasing a new US$130 plus shipping battery replacement for my JetLites system. I do long distances consistently at night (60-70% of my rides are in the dark or predawn) on a variety of roads with varying amounts of light. Think city to trail to country roads. I guess I just have to read more. :(

I have either bottle type or bottom bracket mounted generators on several of my bikes, plus for years of commuting, my Winter rain bike had a Sturmey Archer Dynohub powering a lumotec headlight. All of these systems are 6 volt 3 watts & they provide adequate light even on dark country roads. I never experienced any slippage even in heavy rain, & only once saw tire wear (which was from a misadjusted bottle generator).

You can still purchase new Union or similar generator systems but not all bike shops carry them. The last set I purchased was no longer manufactured in Germany & was marked "made in Spain". The generator & lights were also branded "Soubitez" (a French Co.) although the box & directions are marked "Union". The set cost $36 & I felt the headlight scattered light to much, so I replaced it with a "Lumotec" headlight with "standlight" feature. This added an additional $40, so the whole system cost $76. I usually supplemented with a led headlight & blinkies.

For many years I used a system of 2 halogen headlights (10 watt & 15 watt) powered by a rechargable lead acid battery. It gives much more light but the rechargable batteries only last about 45 minutes with both lights or a bit over 2 hours on 10 watts only & need replacement every season. Don

OK, I want to look at the diy led info, but I can't find it on your blog page... I went to randocommute.blogspot.com , but I don't see anything about plans or categories. Any idea
what's up?

Thanks,
Brad

http://randocommute.blogspot.com/2006/12/mighty-quad-k2-generator-light.html
http://randocommute.blogspot.com/2006/12/in-comments-below-there-was-inquiry.html

The basic difference between that light and my current version is I reduced it to Two leds. Removed the diffraction lens, and arranged the leds vertical to give more room on the sides so the chain would not rip the light off if it overshifted.

Also, I should point out that they now have Buck Pucks that take alternating current (current version uses this) so you can cut out the Bridge Rectifier from the circuit. You just need to make sure that you get a buck puck that allows strobing so you don't burn it out at slower speeds.

Reading this, I am just confused at the moment. I'm now looking into an alternative to purchasing a new US$130 plus shipping battery replacement for my JetLites system. I do long distances consistently at night (60-70% of my rides are in the dark or predawn) on a variety of roads with varying amounts of light. Think city to trail to country roads. I guess I just have to read more. :(

If you are riding 60-70% of the time needing lights, then you should be seriously considering a generator based light set.

Yeah, I know. :(

The Jet Lites system worked great when new but the cost of the replacement battery is the killer. If I buy a new battery now, I'll just have to repeat the process again in 3-4 years.

The EL defn isn't a 5W light. It has 5 LEDs, I think in total they use about 1W.

I have a K2 Luxeon with a 6degree lens. The manufacturer calls it a 5W LED, but at the recommended current of 1A it is actually 3.47W.

This gives off around the same amount of light as a 20W halogen bulb.

I'm going by the totally unscientific comparison of shining them across a field at night.

Ah yes, the Cateye does not draw 5W... Otherwise those AA's would drain in no time.

One of the reasons I went with a 10W halogen MR16 set-up is the multitude of drop in MR16 LED bulbs that are coming to market. I think I will look around and try to find the best MR16 LED bulb at a reasonable price and try it out. It seems there are some that claim 20W replacement at less than 5W draw. We'll see. Even a 15W equivalent would be OK for brevets I would assume.

SharpT

I picked up an Inolight 20+ from Peter White to use with my soon to be installed SON hub. I believe it's a two watt LED.

Unfortunately I can't comment on it's usefulness yet since the bike is still being assembled. It should be interesting to compare it to my offroad lighting systems.

~Jamie

Could someone tell me what a buckpuck is? Paul L. ?