Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Your century bicycle(s)

What bicycles have you ridden your centuries (or brevets, or double centuries) on?


Here's my list, complete with photos:

1) Venture - a steel department store bicycle
2) Gitane - a tandem
3) Mongoose - a steel department store mtn bike
4) Giant OCR3 - an aluminum racing bicycle (actually, I've had two of these, and have done long rides on both)
5) Marinoni Ciclo - a steel sport touring bicycle

.

couple centuries, lots of metrics; looking to do at least a double metric (Triple Bypass) and a weekend tour or two this summer on her:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/103/297893887_d9e9679404.jpg

First century was done on the Specialized Sirrus.... and the others on the Bianchi Giro

http://www.pacfit.com/sirrus05a.jpg
http://www.pacfit.com/giro06.jpg

Devinci Caribou and Marinoni fixed conversion, mes bicyclettes quebequoises. Sorry no pics, I need a digital camera.

Custom-built S&S 1999 Frezoni - PBP and LEL + lots
Modified 1965 Moulton Stowaway - 2-speed PBP and fixed-wheel Super Randonneur
Borrowed 1980s Apollo 4 - 1000km brevet
1999 T5 Brompton - Dunwich Dynamo, about 200km
Borrowed SA8-hub Moulton Series 2 - 300km brevet
Very early Cannondale tandem - centuries
1980s Alan - 1000km brevet + lots
Early steel-fork Cannondale - SR
Cannondale 2.8 - SR + lots
1980s Hoffy - centuries
Early 1980s Apollo 3 - centuries
Borrowed replica penny farthing - 100km race (felt longer)

I think that's about it (you didn't say they had to be my own bikes).

2000 Trek 730 hybrid (basic $400 entry-level steel frame hybrid -- used for New York - Boston AIDS ride and three MS 150 centuries)

2004 Trek 520 touring bike (100 mile touring days and 1 SR series)

http://users.rcn.com/crisc/randobike2.jpg

3) Mongoose - a steel department store mtn bike


.

OK, now that's impressive. I would be hating life on that thing after 50 miles.

I did my first century on this bike, which I still own. Specialized Expedition:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d126/telehammer/tour2.jpg
I still do at least one century a year on this 1986 Cannondale, man is this thing stiff and climbs so well!
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d126/telehammer/86dale.jpg
But mostly I ride century rides on my Cannondale Synapse, pure pleasure on a long ride:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d126/telehammer/dale5.jpg

I'm doing 3 centuries this year on this bike:

http://members.cox.net/hollingsworth/Giant%20OCR%20C2%20small.jpg

But, a question...2 of the centuries are local, and well supported, so I won't have to carry much that won't fit in a seat pack...but the 3rd makes major changes in elevation, and temperatures can vary a lot....how do I carry the extra gear if my bike doesn't take a rack? I don't want to wear a backpack - should I get a seat post rack for the ride?

The stable...

Surly Long Haul Trucker - Super Comfort!
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/81/259954467_e0c0799383_o.jpg

IRO Mark V - Single Speed, built with 650B wheels
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/318956992_4ecae7d370_b.jpg

Bob Jackson - Fixed gear. 75 miles is the farthest I've done fixed.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/120/315867600_5af9d7d4d4_b.jpg

...how do I carry the extra gear if my bike doesn't take a rack?
I don't want to wear a backpack - should I get a seat post rack for the ride?


There are many large saddle bags that don't require a rack.
I like the Velo Orange Saddle Bag (http://www.velo-orange.com/saddlebag.html).
Carradice bags are also popular & come in many sizes (http://www.wallbike.com/carradice/carradicesaddlebags.html).
If you want something more modern, look at the Ortlieb Saddle Bags (http://www.wallbike.com/ortlieb/saddlebags.html)
or Jandd Mountain Wedge 3 Bag (http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=BG2531).

Finally, you could get some toe straps & use them to tie your extra stuff to your existing bag.

04 Specialized Roubaix...rides like butta.

I did my first century on a 2004 Specialized Roubaix Comp (in January 2006). Then six on a 2006 Cervelo R3 that I ended up buying. My last century ride (a 200k brevet) was on my backup bike, a 2005 Specialized Allez Sport. (The R3 was at my parents' place.)

All of my centuries have been on Ribby, my '92 Bridgestone RB-1. An absolute joy to ride.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/RB-1/DSCF0152.jpg

mid eighties mountain bike, in the mid eighties. i think it was a ? with a cheap cottered crank. had a great time. rode a half century for charity when i was just a grade schooler, on a 20 inch bike.

nowadays, Soma smoothie ES, Surly long haul trucker, Trek 520. sometimes centuries with full touring loads. All a joy to ride.

Four on this one:
http://i18.tinypic.com/43eohh2.jpg
three on this one:
http://i16.tinypic.com/2w20caf.jpg
One on this one:
http://i18.tinypic.com/49gqof9.jpg

Last year I did centuries on each of these:

WD's Bikes (http://www.k1wd.com/misc/bike/wils-bikes/)

My longest was 111 miles on the Nishiki.

- Wil

The stable...

Surly Long Haul Trucker - Super Comfort!
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/81/259954467_e0c0799383_o.jpg

IRO Mark V - Single Speed, built with 650B wheels
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/318956992_4ecae7d370_b.jpg

Bob Jackson - Fixed gear. 75 miles is the farthest I've done fixed.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/120/315867600_5af9d7d4d4_b.jpg

you have some really nice whips, spud.:) :) :) :) :)

this may be a really dumb question...so forgive my naivete'

i notice that many of the bikes used for touring, etc. have little suspension, saddle padding, carbon or other ride/vibration dampening features. doesn't that make them less comfortable for long rides?

i guess that just goes to show how important "fit" is.

this may be a really dumb question...so forgive my naivete'

i notice that many of the bikes used for touring, etc. have little suspension, saddle padding, carbon or other ride/vibration dampening features. doesn't that make them less comfortable for long rides?

i guess that just goes to show how important "fit" is.


saddle padding (IMHO) is useless, it only creates problems, as you squish down into that comfy saddle you compress all those vital nerves and blood vessels - keeping them from doing their work. if you can fit your saddle to your sit bones, the majority of your weight is carried by your frame. many LD folks choose leather saddles as they can be more comfortable over the long haul.

there are suspension systems for LD bikes like the softride (used to great success in some RAAM races) - but most folks get their fit right and adjust their tire size and pressure to take care of suspension. MTB style suspension robs you of power on the road, esp when climbing.

steel dampens road vibrations very nicely. add some wide(r) tires and you can ride forever.
carbon can do this too, when used correctly - many people who ride LD like to carry some minimal baggage - and sometimes its hard to mount racks and things on carbon frame components (i rode last year series on a steel / carbon racing frame and it worked well... i just got tired of having no way to mount real fenders and having to make due with improvised attachments for lights, my rear rack, etc.)

YMMV.

i prefer my ti bike with steel fork and long reach brakes.
rigged for rando i have real fenders, 28mm tires, and options for luggage.

http://www.mikebeganyi.com/webimages/ifcr/ifticr-burlwat-side.jpg

stripped for nice weather if makes a great all around machine.

http://www.mikebeganyi.com/webimages/ifcr/ifticr-side1.jpg

i'm also hoping to do a fixed century this year on my surly. steel frame, no frills. comfy ride.

that makes sense. i sort of have experienced that with the gel saddles (and gel gloves - too much padding in the palm area puts pressure on the carpal tunnel).

so how do you know if a particular bike is going to be comfortable on a century if you've never tried it? also, how does relaxed vs. aggressive geometry enter into the picture? some of the bikes pictured appear to be set up for more aggressive riding.

What bicycles have you ridden your centuries (or brevets, or double centuries) on?


Here's my list, complete with photos:

1) Venture - a steel department store bicycle
2) Gitane - a tandem
3) Mongoose - a steel department store mtn bike
4) Giant OCR3 - an aluminum racing bicycle (actually, I've had two of these, and have done long rides on both)
5) Marinoni Ciclo - a steel sport touring bicycle

.

Which one do you like best for a century or longer?

this may be a really dumb question...so forgive my naivete'

i notice that many of the bikes used for touring, etc. have little suspension, saddle padding, carbon or other ride/vibration dampening features. doesn't that make them less comfortable for long rides?

i guess that just goes to show how important "fit" is.

----------
that makes sense. i sort of have experienced that with the gel saddles (and gel gloves - too much padding in the palm area puts pressure on the carpal tunnel).

so how do you know if a particular bike is going to be comfortable on a century if you've never tried it? also, how does relaxed vs. aggressive geometry enter into the picture? some of the bikes pictured appear to be set up for more aggressive riding.


In answer to your first question, from my experience, the lack of suspension and saddle padding makes the bicycles MORE comfortable. Suspension has you bouncing all over the place so some of your energy is spent in going up and down rather than forward (when I ride my Mongoose on centuries, I keep the suspension locked tight so there is no bounce), and saddle padding causes extra friction and discomfort.

I have ridden the same bicycle (my steel Marinoni) with carbon seatpost, carbon forks, and carbon cranks on exactly the same terrain as I rode it without all that stuff, and there was no difference in comfort or vibration dampening. I don't have any carbon on my bicycle anymore, and I prefer it that way ... especially since I often travel to do my rides. (I have "issues" with the durability of carbon after my seatpost shattered).

-----

And in answer to your second question ... we HAVE tried our bicycles before we ride centuries on them. That's what training rides are for. In most cases, we don't just hop on a bicycle and ride a century ... we've been using the bicycle for commuting, for touring, for racing, for riding around ... and we've become familiar with the bicycle. In my collection, there is only one bicycle I didn't have a chance to ride before I rode a century, and that was the tandem. However in that case, I had already done several centuries, and had been riding for several years, and so I had a pretty good idea how to set up the back to make it work for me.

The thing is, you can ride a century on anything you want ... just as long as you've got some idea of how to set the bicycle up so that it fits.

Which one do you like best for a century or longer?

Machak ...... my Marinoni. :) :)

Machak ...... my Marinoni. :) :)

That would have been my guess. :)

My steel touring bike with a frame a little too big is most comfortable for me. It also has 32mm tires. It's 28 lbs with the racks and fenders.

Do you know how much Machak weighs?


http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9028/hpim3623smallrd9.jpg

Machak is 49.5 cm (just the right size) and weighs 27 lbs with racks and fenders.


By comparison, my Giants were/are 50 cm, and weigh about 25 lbs ... and the Venture is 57 cm and weighs about 40 lbs. I did my first half dozen or so centuries on that Venture, plus thousands of kilometers of touring, commuting, and other riding ... despite the fact that it is WAY too big for me. I've done around a dozen centuries, and my first 200K brevet, on the Mongoose, which weighs in at 40 lbs as well ... it wasn't bad, just a little slow.

'72 Peugot UO8
'79 Lotus Legend
'01 Novara Gran Fondo (my current randonneuring bike)

Unless really really hilly I prefer to use the bent: Rotator Ti Pursuit. It is far more
comfortable and not enough slower to make me want to switch. I do ride a DF
bike on certain group rides. The Cheaha Challenge has cerca 10kft of climbing,
but I skipped about 2500 of this by omitting the central 12miles of the 102 and
doing only 89mi. That is the R side pix. The other pix is from the Leaves of
Lincoln century in south central Tn, very scenic century.

http://www.mikebeganyi.com/webimages/ifcr/ifticr-burlwat-side.jpg

stripped for nice weather if makes a great all around machine.

http://www.mikebeganyi.com/webimages/ifcr/ifticr-side1.jpg


i always gotta give dap to bmike for his beautiful IF whip as it is my whip's twin! (virtually identical but mine has hammered fenders for a little extra bling and i rock the IF team color decals cuz i'm down with the IF crew. thems my homies as i live about a quarter mile away from the IF world headquarters!) i just don't know how to post pics!! but that ti club racer is ALL DAT for rollin' off some miles (or kilometers for our canadian friends!!!!:) :) :beer: :beer:

Edited: I used a Xootr Swift on my last century.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u191/bacciagalupe/P3030001.jpg

Aluminum frame, bar-ends, SPD pedals, an added water bottle cage. I doubt I'd do another century on it though.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w181/jechatham/cc245-1wford1.jpg

No centuries yet, as it is brand new! Waterford RST-22, made to measure. Now, assuming I will have more comfort, am thinking of trying some brevets, as well. A century was all I could take before on my titanium, race oriented bike.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w181/jechatham/cc245-1wford1.jpg

No centuries yet, as it is brand new! Waterford RST-22, made to measure. Now, assuming I will have more comfort, am thinking of trying some brevets, as well. A century was all I could take before on my titanium, race oriented bike.

How tall are you!?

Machak is 49.5 cm (just the right size) and weighs 27 lbs with racks and fenders.


By comparison, my Giants were/are 50 cm, and weigh about 25 lbs ... and the Venture is 57 cm and weighs about 40 lbs. I did my first half dozen or so centuries on that Venture, plus thousands of kilometers of touring, commuting, and other riding ... despite the fact that it is WAY too big for me. I've done around a dozen centuries, and my first 200K brevet, on the Mongoose, which weighs in at 40 lbs as well ... it wasn't bad, just a little slow.

What type and size tires does Machak Have?
All my bikes that are too big for me give a more comfortable ride.

How tall are you!?

6'3". It does look pretty tall, especially with the 20mm head tube extension. I think the seat tube is 62cm.

hey zonk! what happened to the rivendell SS? didn't you have one. duder! i dig the waterford!! nice!!:) :)

hey zonk! what happened to the rivendell SS? didn't you have one. duder! i dig the waterford!! nice!!:) :)

I did indeed have a Rivendell Quickbeam, but sold it...it just wasn't working for a 46 year old with two surgeries on each knee. I did enjoy the Rivendell experience, however...and started thinking about a lugged steel bike with more gears. I considered their Rambouillet (wasn't crazy about the blue, green ones were not expected til mid-year). Then they debuted the A. Homer Hilsen...I'm not too crazy about the name or the decals, but saw they were being made for them by Waterford. So, I went surfing, and then called them. Found I could get a made to measure frame for not much more than the A.H.H. and any color I wanted (British Racing Green). Ended up buying the Nitto bits (seatpost, handlebar, and stem) as well as the tires and cork wrap from Rivendell. Thanks for the kind words!:D

I've ridden this frame for 22 years and with several different build configurations. I've got fancier bikes but this is still the one I like best for long rides.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w162/lemurhouse/200702BlueFix.jpg

A few days ago a couple of friends and I had nothing much to do so on the spur of the moment we decided to go for a quick century. At the end of it I wished I had my lights and another 5 hours free because I was ready for another one.... if I were single and no kids, I would have :D

I know most of you would look at this bike thinking how uncomfortable it must be for long distance. the frame is extremely stiff, its a very agressive riding position, and it has no cargo carrying capacity at all - not even water bottle cages!. Yes true, but as they say, whatever works for you, and this bike with my 100oz hydration pack I find works great for me.:)

I've ridden this frame for 22 years and with several different build configurations. I've got fancier bikes but this is still the one I like best for long rides.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w162/lemurhouse/200702BlueFix.jpg

That's classy.
What frame is under there?

What type and size tires does Machak Have?
All my bikes that are too big for me give a more comfortable ride.

Machak's tires are 700x25s. I could have gotten the smaller size (650s?) but I opted to go for the full size ones because tires for that size are more common. But the problem with those wheels is that they take up so much room ... I can't use wider tires.

Actually it's the same story for the entire bicycle. Machak is very compact, and everything just fits with no extra room!

Sounds like you need a new bicycle!! :D

.

Thanks. Its a Trek 600 from 1985. Its not fancy, but has Reynolds 531 steel and a nice geometry. Too flexy for racing but very comfy and stable. It was starting to develop some some rust so I had it powdercoated a couple of years ago. I removed most of the braze-ons at the same time.

I did indeed have a Rivendell Quickbeam, but sold it...it just wasn't working for a 46 year old with two surgeries on each knee. I did enjoy the Rivendell experience, however...and started thinking about a lugged steel bike with more gears. I considered their Rambouillet (wasn't crazy about the blue, green ones were not expected til mid-year). Then they debuted the A. Homer Hilsen...I'm not too crazy about the name or the decals, but saw they were being made for them by Waterford. So, I went surfing, and then called them. Found I could get a made to measure frame for not much more than the A.H.H. and any color I wanted (British Racing Green). Ended up buying the Nitto bits (seatpost, handlebar, and stem) as well as the tires and cork wrap from Rivendell. Thanks for the kind words!:D

"A. Homer Hilsen" really is a horrendous name for a bike.

"A. Homer Hilsen" really is a horrendous name for a bike.

They wanted to call it the "Honus Wagner" but could not come to terms with the trademark people that own the copyright. :eek:

(...)
so how do you know if a particular bike is going to be comfortable on a century if you've never tried it? also, how does relaxed vs. aggressive geometry enter into the picture? some of the bikes pictured appear to be set up for more aggressive riding.

Personnally I am not clear yet how "aggressive" a position I prefer. I have ridden quite a few centuries on bikes where the handlebars were a few cm lower than the saddle, a setup I would qualify as "rather aggressive". I have recently bought a dedicated randonneur bike which is less so, with bars almost level with the saddle. I am not actually sure I prefer this more relaxed position. It could be that because my hands are higher I put more weight on them, it is hard to explain. It could also be that the manufacturer (despite his great reputation and undisputed experience) laid the cables in an inadequate location along the bar, meaning that my hands don't rest on the nice flat surface that is normally provided by Campagnolo levers. One of these days I will probably try redo the cable routing and taping - I hate that - and see if it improves.
One advantage of these highish bars is that I can ride on the drops without feeling too cramped.

http://photos-058.ak.facebook.com/ip006/v41/26/99/8808711/n8808711_31956058_5831.jpg

mercier aquila from BD 700$. Last summer, ~10 centuries including 3 in a row all the way to canada :D

OCR2 and OCRc2 (not at the same time!):)

My first century was done on a Trek Pilot 5.0. Very nice riding bike but sold it because I wanted a more durable frame. Another bike I have been riding long distances on is my '93 Trek 520. Very stable and enjoyable ride. Heavy as hell though. I think with the fenders and rack it is like 34 lbs. My newest build is a Eddy Merckx Titanium AX. It's a light one at 17 lbs and doesn't take fenders or racks, but damn it's fast. Very comfortable over the long distances. Will be doing a majority of my centuries on this bike this year.

Question: My Eddy Merckx has a compact double (50/36) with a 13/26 cassette. I haven't ridden it on any long rides yet or over any large hills. Most of the centuries that I've got planned are mountain centuries this year. Does this gearing make sense? I've also got a triple (53/42/28) that I could put on, but because of the bottom bracket the granny can only be used on the large cog on the cassette. I loved the 520 gearing (48/36/22) (12/34), I could climb anything on it.

Eddy Merckx
http://www.tranquilitysystems.com/gallery/files/1/img_0538.jpg

Trek 520
http://www.tranquilitysystems.com/gallery/files/1/IMG_0509.JPG

Trek Pilot 5.0 (regret selling this)
http://www.tranquilitysystems.com/gallery/files/1/IMG_0504.JPG

http://i17.tinypic.com/454yhqv.jpg 2004 Specialized Roubaix Pro on Shimano R540 wheels...rides like butta. ;)

Have done imperial centuries on my current three bikes. The Tandem and MTB have been offroad and the Giant SCR and the MTB have been on the road. Can't compare the three bikes as the routes are different but If it was a road ride- then the Giant with no suspension, thin saddle and harsh aluminium frame has been the easiest on the body. Then again- On or Offroad- I would not give up my Thudbuster Suspension post and wide saddle on the Tandem.

Question: My Eddy Merckx has a compact double (50/36) with a 13/26 cassette. I haven't ridden it on any long rides yet or over any large hills. Most of the centuries that I've got planned are mountain centuries this year. Does this gearing make sense? I've also got a triple (53/42/28) that I could put on, but because of the bottom bracket the granny can only be used on the large cog on the cassette. I loved the 520 gearing (48/36/22) (12/34), I could climb anything on it.


Depends on you and the mountains but Can you change the rear cassette to something lower? I know of a regular century rider on hilly routes that use a double compact crankset, and he has changed his rear cassette to a 12/34. This did require a long cage rear derailler so adding to the expense but a couple of centuries a month is his norm.

My Giant has a triple and on our hills I would not contemplate any thing else but When I do road rides on the MTB I have a crankset of 44/32/22 and I can assure you that I do use the lowest gear of 22/32 at some point. So why is it that on the same hills on the road bike- I can sail up hills in 30/26? I think it is a mental thing- It starts hurting so change down- but when you run out of gears- you have to put up with the pain.