Mountain Biking - Reducing Weight on Fat Bikes

Let's make a light weight bike.

Please keep lame posts to a minimum.

Seat And seat post's are generally an inexpensive place to drop weight. A thomson seat post and Selle SLR saddle can drop a pound or better from stock, mid range to lower lever bikes.

That hundred dollars a pound rule of thumb is on the inexspensive side of things, but the seatpost and seat can deliver this kind of results if you shop wisely. A realistic rule of thumb is more like 10 to 15 dollars an ounce.

I’ve heard that in general you have to spend $100 per pound to remove weight, but am hoping to get a better “rule” from your posts on this thread.


You can get by with that rule for a while but eventually it gets closer to $1 (or more) a gram to remove weight. That is when it starts getting painful. I would love to be able to drop a pound off of my bike for $100. However, at this point I believe I need to spend around $400 - $500 to take another pound off of it. :(

Rotational weight is where you would notice the biggest difference. So, go for a lighter wheelset, and perhaps lighter tires. My stock road bike is light enough, compared to my old, overweight steel mtn.bike, but I did invest in a better wheelset and lighter tires on the mtn.bike and could really feel the difference. Unfortunately, the tires weren't knobby enough for the type of riding around here, so went back to tires that were knobbier (& heavier)-could feel the difference first ride-so it was either slide around on the trails or put up with a bit more weight (guess which won).

CF or Scandium handlebars and seat posts - both @ $70 each, Scandium/Ti BB @100... Look at scandium parts & pieces - usually a good price & great weight savings.

Okay, here is a short list.

Grips - Titec Pork rinds. $10, save up to 1/4 pound
Tires - Find out what locals are riding. You can easily save up to 1/2 pound or more just by going to some lighter tires.
Wheels - I just spent $450 on a set of custom made Mike Garcia wheels. Very light and durable (depending on the build you go with). You will probably save at least 1 1/2 pounds over a set of cheap OEM wheels.
Tubes - Stan's no tubes. Debatable of course, but my number one choice.
Carbon bar - There are a lot more people that have "heard" of them breaking than have broken them.
Pedals - What are you running? Eggbeaters are awesome and pretty light for a reasonable price.
Crankset - You can drop a ton of weight there. Just depends on what you want to spend.
Bottom Bracket - Another place you can easily lose 1/4 pound or more for less than $100. I use an American Classic ISIS. Very light and has easily replaceable bearings.
Fork - Depending on what you have you can easily lose a pound there as well.
Cassette - If you have a low range cassette (or a sram) you can drop 1/4 pound by going xtr.

There are a lot of ways to lose weight. Just remember two rules. Being a weight weenie is expensive. It is much cheaper and easier to lose weight off of the body (when possible). Unfortunately if you weigh 150 pounds and are taller than 5' 9" you probably don't have a lot of weight to lose. Just keep in mind though, if you haven't been riding long you shouldn't start going for a light bike just yet. You will gain more speed by riding a couple of times a week right now than you will by lightening up your bike. Also, you will be breaking parts while you are re-learning the ins and outs. It's better to break the cheaper parts and then replace them with the more expensive parts.

Yeah, I lean more toward the $1 per gram theory.

If you're running LX level componentry, you can save quite a bit of weight, but if you up around XT/X.9 level stuff...it's gonna be expensive to save weight.

I spent $500 on a set of wheels that will effectively save me around $500g.

I will however save another 300g on a set of tires and tubes that cost me only $50.

I could save 100g on a handlebar that would cost me $90.

I'm already basically at the XT level and looking at the above info...I'd say ~ $1 per gram. (~450g per lb)

Yeah, I lean more toward the $1 per gram theory.

If you're running LX level componentry, you can save quite a bit of weight, but if you up around XT/X.9 level stuff...it's gonna be expensive to save weight.

I spent $500 on a set of wheels that will effectively save me around $500g.

I will however save another 300g on a set of tires and tubes that cost me only $50.

I could save 100g on a handlebar that would cost me $90.

I'm already basically at the XT level and looking at the above info...I'd say ~ $1 per gram. (~450g per lb)
Factoid : the weight of a US dollar bill is 1 gram (http://www.moneyfactory.gov/document.cfm/18/106). 454 grams per pound. I just picked up a Evolve XC seatpost and it weighs a good amount less than my stock seatpost. 06 XTR gear is going cheaply right now due to the redesign. The crankset is scary light.

"Scary" being the right word, sir. (hehee)

But lets say you own a RF Evolve post. $90 would get you U.S.E. alien aluminum post saving 85g. In that respect, the $1 per gram theory still works out.

I actually gained weight when I sold my Raceface Evolve XC post and bought a Thomson Elite Layback.

I spent twice as much for the Thomson, yet gained around 15g.

I saw a need in durability vs. light weight. My RF evolve creaked at the joints. I greased them up bunch too. I just couldn't deal with it. The added 15g wasn't noticeable, but the lack of squeaks is wonderful. It did however make a dent in the pocket book.

I'm not disputing tempest, just reinforcing my theory.

I'm trying to reduce the weight of a fat rider :) Wheels are the thing that will lighten it up the most--IMHO.

Carbon stuff doesn't have a tendency to crack, if made right (oops, was that a one line reply?).

....wheels.

....wheels.

+1

(oh nooooooos - these one-line answers are against the OP's wishes.)

+1

(oh nooooooos - these one-line answers are against the OP's wishes.)

I thought one word post were fine.
I hate silly rules.

...new rubber.

Does anyone want to chat about why expensive derailleurs have longer lives that cheap ones?

Sounds like it could be a good discussion, lets hear your views on the subject good sir.

Well I think the ones that cost the most must be the best,right? I mean they are lighter and more better than a cheap one.

Does anyone want to chat about why expensive derailleurs have longer lives that cheap ones?

The OP requested "no chatting". Although I think pointing out that rule qualifies as chatting.
http://steve.wordpress.com/files/2006/03/Mobius%20Strip.thumbnail.jpg

The OP requested "no chatting". Although I think pointing out that rule qualifies as chatting.
http://steve.wordpress.com/files/2006/03/Mobius%20Strip.thumbnail.jpg

You're chatting again.....

Hey guys, I got new handlebars today and I'm getting new cranks next weekend.

Also, I sold my Hoffman frame today.

You're chatting again.....

Yeah, well the fish in my sig got cut off so we're both disappointed.

You can replace it with the the frame i'm using instead of the Hoffman:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/wethepeople101/100_0759.jpg

Enough
with
the
chatting. (4 lines...)

wethepeople - do you or know anyone that has a front bmx wheel they're willing to let go of for cheap. a girl in my mountain bike club had her wheel smashed by a car while she was at work. The bike is c. 1987 so apparently it takes a 14mm axle.

Thanks

WTP- Nice, you sure are all about the weight savings, sir.

You must be saving a TON with that chain.

Santiago: All I have is a Sun ZX-25 with some smashed spokes and a cracked DK Macho hub.

What is wrong with her hub? Cant she lace it to a new wheel? I know at my local shop you can pick up a cheapo 20" wheel with a Joytech 14mm hub and axle for around $35.


You must be saving a TON with that chain.

The real weight savings is in the lack of brakes.

Santiago: All I have is a Sun ZX-25 with some smashed spokes and a cracked DK Macho hub.

What is wrong with her hub? Cant she lace it to a new wheel? I know at my local shop you can pick up a cheapo 20" wheel with a Joytech 14mm hub and axle for around $35.


I don't know the details. She posted something on our club's forum a week or so ago. Actually, you just reminded me that my LBS specializes in BMX bikes. I'll give them a call tomorrow to see if they have something laying around or something like you described. Thanks.

No problemo.

Enough
with
the
chatting. (4 lines...)

I agree.

For example: some people have told me that high-end derailleurs don’t last as long as the standard ones b/c the material is softer.
I would stop listening to these "people" that are filling your head with all kinds of nonsense. (oh no! one line!)

I'll see you in the other thread...

Some of guys are DELIBERATELY filling up my thread with BULL ####!!!

STOP IT and GET the #### out of my discussions!


Those of you guys who posed helpful things, than you. I'm moving.

The rest of you are NOT welcome to join.

Please stop this chatter. I'm trying to find answers in this thread and you're not helping.

Please stop this chatter. I'm trying to find answers in this thread and you're not helping.

Well, why are you complaining to me???

Some individuals posting on this thread made the decision to be disruptive and disrespectful while failing to show intelligence.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/wethepeople101/100_0786.jpg

"Scary" being the right word, sir. (hehee)

But lets say you own a RF Evolve post. $90 would get you U.S.E. alien aluminum post saving 85g. In that respect, the $1 per gram theory still works out.

I actually gained weight when I sold my Raceface Evolve XC post and bought a Thomson Elite Layback.

I spent twice as much for the Thomson, yet gained around 15g.

I saw a need in durability vs. light weight. My RF evolve creaked at the joints. I greased them up bunch too. I just couldn't deal with it. The added 15g wasn't noticeable, but the lack of squeaks is wonderful. It did however make a dent in the pocket book.

I'm not disputing tempest, just reinforcing my theory.

I've tended to view weight loss on the frame as something best applied to moving parts. I'm in the position where I'm trying to disambiguate my single do it all in a halfassed way bike into two that are more suited for the riding that i'm actually doing.

If my Evolve post creaks its going to be in pieces before it gets well broken in. I had a set of pedals that creaked like a mother no matter what the adjustment was and they very nearly drove me insane.

I think there's a fine line to walk between durability and weight. I'm looking for it now, but I think that after a certain point the returns diminish steeply. If I have to worry about parts that can't take the occasional bad bump that is associated with my sloppy riding I'll have to pass.

Losing the 15 pounds I've gained this winter since downing myself with an injury . . . that's probably the best place to start.

Are more gooder derailures lighter than not so good ones? Can I take the link things out of my chain to drop the heaviness of my bike?

Some of guys are DELIBERATELY filling up my thread with BULL ####!!!

STOP IT and GET the #### out of my discussions!


Those of you guys who posed helpful things, than you. I'm moving.

The rest of you are NOT welcome to join.


Well, why are you complaining to me???

Some individuals posting on this thread made the decision to be disruptive and disrespectful while failing to show intelligence.
Are you serious? You're taking it hook, line and sinker. I think you should take a chill pill. You're 1st mistake was trying to dictate exactly how everyone should post. That's asking for trouble TBH- there are alot of peeps on here with a sense of humor!
My recomendation to you, Hitler, is to take all of the relevent replies on board (very helpful to me atm I might add!), ignore the crap, and move on. It surely can't be that hard?

Where's that other thread?

Are more gooder derailures lighter than not so good ones? Can I take the link things out of my chain to drop the heaviness of my bike?

Gooder gear railers are lighter if they're gooder than not as gooder ones. The links in your chain can be replaced with power links. That should save you 1/4 pound. But since the chain rotates around the gears and cogs and sprockets and gear railers and jockey pulleys, it's considered rotating weight and feels like more better weight savings when you use power links.

x=w(2)^2 if "w" is weight.

So if you save .25lbs then it really feels like you save several pounds.

Years ago I asked my LBS where was the best place to make my bike lighter.

He told me to start right above the seat.

Your butt?

You and your LBS are pretty close and personal.:D

Yup. That was a loooooong time ago when all I did was hang out at the shop. He was a great guy and got me into a great sport.

Are you serious? You're taking it hook, line and sinker. I think you should take a chill pill. You're 1st mistake was trying to dictate exactly how everyone should post. That's asking for trouble TBH- there are alot of peeps on here with a sense of humor!
My recomendation to you, Hitler, is to take all of the relevent replies on board (very helpful to me atm I might add!), ignore the crap, and move on. It surely can't be that hard?
Hitler...hm, you're cheerful.

Yes, I know that might be asking for trouble, but I honestly did not realize how immature some of these kids are. The thing about keeping the threads short and concise...that was not a rule or mandate, but a request. I used the word "please" twice. The assumption was that most people using this forum have little bit of COURTESY. Guess that's not true for some guys.

Gooder gear railers are lighter if they're gooder than not as gooder ones. The links in your chain can be replaced with power links. That should save you 1/4 pound. But since the chain rotates around the gears and cogs and sprockets and gear railers and jockey pulleys, it's considered rotating weight and feels like more better weight savings when you use power links.

x=w(2)^2 if "w" is weight.

So if you save .25lbs then it really feels like you save several pounds.

Now we're getting somewhere with this light weight thing.

Hitler...hm, you're cheerful.

Yes, I know that might be asking for trouble, but I honestly did not realize how immature some of these kids are. The thing about keeping the threads short and concise...that was not a rule or mandate, but a request. I used the word "please" twice. The assumption was that most people using this forum have little bit of COURTESY. Guess that's not true for some guys.

Some people need to grow up. I'm really sorry for the way some folks on here act.

Some people need to grow up. I'm really sorry for the way some folks on here (sic) act.

It's "hear." Duh.

That mean old guy uphillbiker is really hurting lots of kid's feelings what with his multiple inane posts, asinine, overly verbose questions and special posting rules and all.

The world needs more humorless, serious uphillbikers!

Hey, thanks mtnbiker66. I admit that I have been rude and inconsiderate to members and am not going to do that from now on. Perhaps we all could improve on being courteous.

Also, thank you guys who posted helpful things on lighting up a bike. I am sorry for allowing this thread to turn into such a fiasco. I'm excited about finally getting a lighter bike, all though it's not going to be immediately.

Again, your thoughts are much appreciated.

mtnbiker66 is always helpful and full of good information. It's a pleasant change from the rest of the smart alecks around here.

It's "hear." Duh.

That mean old guy uphillbiker is really hurting lots of kid's feelings what with his multiple inane posts, asinine, overly verbose questions and special posting rules and all.

The world needs more humorless, serious uphillbikers!
I hear your dumb a$$ loud and clear.