Bicycle Mechanics - Threadless headset adjustment

In the "good-old-days" of threaded headsets, one of the best ways to check the bearings adjustment was to "rock" the fork and check for play before install handlebars, cables etc...

Anyway, I now have a bike with a Cane Creek "S6" headset.
After my first ride I noticed the headset had loosened. I went ahead and followed the directions to tighten it.

Now I have ridden 3 more times, and the headset seems fine.
(including some bumpy roads)

My questions are: What's the best way to check the "ultra fine-tune" adjustment of the headset with stem, bars and cable still attached......??

If in fact, I have actually "over tightened" the headset, how would I know, and if I have it too tight, should I leave it alone since I already rode it this way for 3 hours???

Thanks, I've read the previous posts, but didn't see any tips about the "really fine-tune" adjustments....

I have found that if it turns freely(pick bike up and let the bars drop to each side), AND you don't have the play when you rock the bike with brakes on, you're probably set. I don't know of any "fine tuning", maybe someone else does though.

These headsets, like other bearings, shoud be adjusted as loose as possible but without play or knocking. That it is. For "tips" go slowly, and make adjustments a small increment at a time. The threaded headsets offerd a better system for "fine adjustment", but it basically the same system. A cup is shoved down against a cup, with the ball bearings caught in between.

See Headset adjustment (http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml)

Here's a sure fire way to get it right every time. First off, if you installed a new headset, make sure the crown race is fully seated. then loosen the stem clamping bolts and using a torque wrench, torque the top cap center bolt to 12 to 15 in' lbs. then rotate the handlebar back and forth a few times and re-check the center bolt torque, now tighten the stem clamp bolts and you have correct bearing preload. That's it, you're good to go.

I had read the infamouse "loose as possible" without play in the Park service site.. that's what got me wondering just how get a "feel" when you have a"stem" as a locking nut....

Never thought about "wiggling the stem" with "official" torque on the cap/nut but that kind of makes sense......

It seems like much of the "fine adjustment" is in the matrix of the stem seating against the spacer and the nylon cap.

What is less obvious, the slack or play of the stem being a larger diameter than the steer tube allows for at least some "shifting" as pressure is applied.

I would have thought another "lockring" type washer that evenly applies force to the cup, instead of a flat spacer would be a superior design. But I guess they figure it would eventually compress requiring several tighenings as it compressed.

NOW - the $89.00 question, will this thing last 5 years like my old Campy Super Record, or is bench jewlery next year?

A King headset, properly installed may very well be the last headset you will ever buy, Their top cap torque spec is 10 inch lbs. They are smooth and friction free.