Classic & Vintage - Reproduction Universal Hoods

Just as an update. I bit the bullet and bought some NOS hoods and got good dimensions. My first attempt was pretty close but this one is good to +/- 0.1 mm. I did make the side walls 0.5 mm thicker than the originals. I need to get a positive made, then I will make a silicon mold and start producing parts in the next couple of months.

http://www.h3odesign.com/Misc_Images/01_Universal.jpg

http://www.h3odesign.com/Misc_Images/02_Universal.jpg

that's damn impressive, have you done this before? with say campy?
I'd volunteer my sole intact world logo hood for dimensions if nescessary.

Should sell well, I'll go for a couple pair.

What program are you using?, looks like time to go to the stereolith' machine. Campagnolo hoods are a much harder surface to model, and the Camppagnolo logo police are formidable, true shape I think would not be a problem, but avoid the logo and the lawyers.

Don't forget many Universal levers also used a soft cap above the adjuster.

If there's anyway to put blue lettering on the gum and red lettering on the white, they'd be KILLER!

Very impressive - Please keep us informed about your progress. I would want 2 sets of gum hoods.

Why Universal hoods? They can still be found quite easily at reasonable prices. Here is one source: http://www.sdbicyclegarage.com/Brakes.html I have also seen them without the box for even less.

Why Universal hoods? They can still be found quite easily at reasonable prices. Here is one source: http://www.sdbicyclegarage.com/Brakes.html I have also seen them without the box for even less.
I have Universal brakes, so I want Universal hoods now. If I get Campy brakes, I'll want Campy hoods.

Maybe I am a cheap bastard, but $50 for rubber hoods may be reasonable because they aren't made any more, but they are not cheap. I figure the repros can be made with a little profit (to cover the molding costs) for $20-$25. Campy repros would be the same cost, NOS goes for $84 for the shield and $??? for the world logo.




What program are you using?, looks like time to go to the stereolith' machine.
Made the computer model in Rhino, it is easier to surface than Solidworks. The positive will be a Polyjet, it's cheaper than an SLA (for small parts) and has a better resolution, 0.0006" layer slice. The best quote I got is $100 for the part, know of a better place?




If there's anyway to put blue lettering on the gum and red lettering on the white, they'd be KILLER!
You can with a metal mold, not with a silcone mold, sorry. And I am not going to hand paint them myself:p

it's great to hear you are following through with this project..
does the pic mean you are making the gum, black, and white styles ??

if you were going to go through the trouble of making a repro hood for campy levers but avoiding the campy logo, maybe it'd be worth looking into making up some modolo anatomic hoods instead ?

it's great to hear you are following through with this project..
does the pic mean you are making the gum, black, and white styles ??


It is so easy to make different colors on the computer, I'll do mauve if you like.

I will have to get different urethanes to cast in different colors. It can be done, but it costs more. I was going to start with the gum and move on from there.

This makes me wish I had some Universal Brakes once again....

It is so easy to make different colors on the computer, I'll do mauve if you like.


Oh what the hell, I am a bit bored.

http://www.h3odesign.com/Misc_Images/03_Universal.jpg

O H M Y G A W D ! ! !

But do the white too!

Rhino is easier, no question there. You have the correct solution for the master I think, as the lettering will be the critical feature, one way would be to insert an etched mag plate into the side if you don't get the resolution you want or need. I have seen other repro attempts before, a problem can be the translucence of the gum rubber, your having a thicker side wall will help but, it may not be enough, might reference options before you pull the trigger. Also with that lettering I could see vac assist being needed to expell the bubbles trapped from the pour.

I would consider a hard core for the cavity, but may not need it.

I think filling the lettering with paint post molding is not a problem, I used some Liquitex acrylic on some later NOS Universals that did not have the paint fill, worked quite well, just wipe quickly and give it extra drying time.

I want a gum colored pair when you start making!

Mike.

Any progress? I'll definitely take a pair or two.

Me too.

Sorry guys, I've put it on the back burner for now. I had a snag with the materials. From the suppliers I contacted there was a minimum of 3, 1-gallon buckets of UV resistant urethane. That comes to about $300. The other capital costs are about $250. Right now, that too big of a nut for me.

Sorry guys, I've put it on the back burner for now. I had a snag with the materials. From the suppliers I contacted there was a minimum of 3, 1-gallon buckets of UV resistant urethane. That comes to about $300. The other capital costs are about $250. Right now, that too big of a nut for me.


There's a guy on the CR list making Campagnolo hoods. Maybe you could pair up with him and share the costs...

I think there are many bike forum members here who would be happy to help you get this project off the ground. The reproduction campy/universal hoods would be awsome. My new bike has universal brakes and I hate the idea of spending 50$ on hoods. How many pair of hoods can you make with the 550$ material bill?

If the project ever gets going I'd like a couple pair of gum hoods. Sign me up. Even if you can get NOS hoods now, you might not be able to 10 years from now when my current pair wears out or I get another bike.

How many pair of hoods can you make with the 550$ material bill?

I don't know, I have never made hoods before. A guess would be 50-60 pairs, but I really don't know. There is also a lot of time involved which I won't have until after the holidays. It's a lot to invest for me right now.