Mountain Biking - Cromoly framed MTB?

Hi.

I'm thinking of buying this (http://www.louisgarneausports.com/bike/xc-gravel.htm) Louis Garneau cromoly XC MTB. It's available only in Japan and costs about $1100.

Please note that bikes are a little costlier here in Japan. For example, the 2007 Trek 6500 costs $1100 in Japan, and a Specialized RH Pro Disc costs $1365.

Do you have any thoughts on cromoly frames and the specs of this Louis Garneau bike?

Thanks.

Do you have any thoughts on cromoly frames ....

Thanks.

cromoly is steel.

steel is real.

ergo, cromoly is real.

the bike has decent entry level spec on it.

I don't know who makes the frames for them.

the pricing seems in the ballpark, maybe a bit high, if you are saying that 900US dollars = 1,100 US dollars in Japan

Hi

Thank you for your thoughts. Could you explain what you mean by steel being real? I guess you like steel frames. Why? With a cromoly frame, should I worry about rust or extra care?

The cromoly used to make the frame on this bike is by Columbus (http://www.columbustubi.com/), an established Italian steel tubing manufacturer.

BTW, I'm thinking of the green frame. In the paper catalogue that I have, it looks dark green rather than almost black like on the web.

"Steel is real" is a mantra muttered by purist retrogrouches on the internet whose creative ability is maxed out with a simple three word rhyme. Present company excepted, of course.

The thing is, though, they're absolutely right.

"Steel is real" is a mantra muttered by purist retrogrouches on the internet whose creative ability is maxed out with a simple three word rhyme. Present company excepted, of course.

The thing is, though, they're absolutely right.

People who write well are real.

People who write well are real.

True....

Hello

No offence to anyone who has posted, but I did want comments on this bike (http://www.louisgarneausports.com/bike/xc-gravel.htm) and cromoly frames.

I look forward to your thoughts on the bike I'm interested and cromoly frames.

Thank you

Hello

No offence to anyone who has posted, but I did want comments on this bike (http://www.louisgarneausports.com/bike/xc-gravel.htm) and cromoly frames.

I look forward to your thoughts on the bike I'm interested and cromoly frames.

Thank you

The bike appears to be a Japan only model. FWIW, Louis Garneau doesn't even sell mountain bikes in North America so you are looking at something that is obviously designed and quite possibly made in your market. Not many people around here from Japan so you'll get little feedback on that model.

As for chromoly, didn't you read the "steel is real" comments above?

I love my steel frame road bike. With no suspension it absorbs the road vibrations making longer rides more comfortable. Steel, however, when not coated (paint, clear coat, etc.) will rust. I would not buy a mountainbike made of steel. Frames get dinged and paint gets chipped. Taken to the extreme, this is why very few manufacturers are willing to make CF frames (the same debris that ruins paint will damage CF). Don't get me wrong, you'll get years of service out of a steel frame. I imagine in Japan it is very wet and/or humid (being a small island nation), which means your frame will rust. Good luck!

Steel framed bikes are all that I'll ride now.

Hopperja

Thank you for your comments. They were substantive and helpful. The climate in Japan is very humid in the summer. You've given me some things to think about. Thanks.

Santiago

I did see the "steel is real" comment, but it has no meaning. I want details and specifics, and people's opinions and impressions. Catch-phrases aren't that helpful. Aluminum is real, too, as are carbon and titanium.

Hopperja

Thank you for your comments. They were substantive and helpful. The climate in Japan is very humid in the summer. You've given me some things to think about. Thanks.

Santiago

I did see the "steel is real" comment, but it has no meaning. I want details and specifics, and people's opinions and impressions. Catch-phrases aren't that helpful. Aluminum is real, too, as are carbon and titanium.


Oooh nooooos! You did not say that aluminum, carbon and titanium are as real as steel. That is just plain crazy.

get it.
the geometry looks fine,it has good components, and the brand is well-respected in japan.
columbus steel is good steel, and good steel rides well.
you'll enjoy it.

ps: people mean that steel rides "real", as in it gives and responds to impact and input,
compared to the "dead", stiff ride of aluminum.

"Steel is real" is a mantra muttered by purist retrogrouches . . . :roflmao:


ps: people mean that steel rides "real", as in it gives and responds to impact and input,
compared to the "dead", stiff ride of aluminum.My butt must not not be sensitive and discerning enough; one hardtail feels equally as harsh, unforgiving and punishing as the other to my old bones.

:roflmao:

My butt must not not be sensitive and discerning enough; one hardtail feels equally as harsh, unforgiving and punishing as the other to my old bones.

Say it. You like 8" in the rear. What's more, you're looking to get paid for it.

i saw on EBAY that NYC Bikes are selling leftover Chromoly Rocky Mountain Frames for $150. Rocky Mountain stuff is handmade, and they're brand new bikes. of course, you'd have to build up your bike from there, but you can build a VERY nice bike for $1000. then you would have your own thing, and you wouldn't have to pay for shipping!

When I first returned to cycling two years ago, I purchased two chromoly frame, steel bikes that are circa 1988. The previous owners road the two bikes on trails regularly and loaned them to the Boy Scouts during their outings. So they saw plenty of use. We cleaned up both and rode both on trails until we purchased new bikes. The two old chromoly frames polished up real well. We still use both of them, although not on MTB trails. So to the OP I would say if you like steel, buy the bike. You have to keep after steel to be sure rust doesn't set in when the paint scratches, but that's no big deal.

Say it. You like 8" in the rear. What's more, you're looking to get paid for it.
That's 8¾" :)

And maybe not paid but I'll take 'partially-compensated.' I would not mind getting paid to write about it, though.

protect your real steel from the humid environment with this:

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/Product_Images/JP-WFS.jpg

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=436548729696&d=single&c=Lubricants-Cleaners&sc=Anti-Rust&tc=&item_id=JP-WFS

protect your real steel from the humid environment with this:

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/Product_Images/JP-WFS.jpg

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=436548729696&d=single&c=Lubricants-Cleaners&sc=Anti-Rust&tc=&item_id=JP-WFS


thats for the inside, but from chips of paint--is the main way to prevent rust on the outside with nail polish? or is there a thing for the exterior? or is the oustide already mostly protected after chipped paint?


also... btw, on that japanese bike page... i like the way they show standover height... not too many american bike sites really show how you're supposed to fit a bike. if we adopted that diagram, we wouldn't have so many people comming in asking if this bike will fit me or not.

Standover is a really crappy way to 'fit' a bike...

thats for the inside, but from chips of paint--is the main way to prevent rust on the outside with nail polish? or is there a thing for the exterior? or is the oustide already mostly protected after chipped paint?


also... btw, on that japanese bike page... i like the way they show standover height... not too many american bike sites really show how you're supposed to fit a bike. if we adopted that diagram, we wouldn't have so many people comming in asking if this bike will fit me or not.
nail polish or probably even better would be auto touchup from your favorite do-it-yourself auto parts store...or walmart.

i believe some use Testors hobby paint. sometimes you can get touch-up from manufacturer....it doesn't necessarily have to be a high end frame. i plan on ordering some from SOMA.

but i agree, touch up is probably a good thing for frames you intend on keeping in nice shape for many years.

I did see the "steel is real" comment, but it has no meaning.

it means all things.

it means all things.Oh, kinda like horoscopes, eh?

get it.
the geometry looks fine...

Slow down a little here. It's not that simple.

You need to ride it to make sure the geometry works for you. MTBs have a wide variation in geometry because geometry significantly affects handling, and depending on the kind of riding you want to do, you should get something that fits. (1) For example, you'll notice that typical cross country bikes have a steeper head tube angle, all mountain bikes are a little slacker, and downhill bikes are slacker still. What does this mean? The steeper the head tube angle, the lesser the trail, which means the bike has less of a tendency to self-steer. This makes for better handling on anything around flat. Because one is seated more towards the front, it also makes for better climbing. This is also why racing road bikes are often described as more 'twitchy' than touring-style rides - the racing bike has a steeper head angle. If you will be doing a lot of down-hill style riding, you'll want a slacker head tube angle (more trail = more tendency to self-steer). (2) Effective top-tube length will influence how stretched out you are; the more stretched out, generally the more aerodynamic but the less comfortable. (3) Standover height must work for you otherwise... (use your imagination) For standover height I personally like the Specialized FSR frame design because it yields greater standover height compared to an equivalently sized traditional cross country frame.

By the way, specs of a bike would not be my first consideration. All parts will eventually fail, especially under the harsh conditions of mountainbiking. I would make sure to buy the bike with the best frame you can that fits you well for the kind of riding you want to do. Then, upgrade the components as you go. On my 05 Kona Caldera, for example, with 3800 miles on it I've replaced the bottom bracket, rear derailleur (2x), front derailleur (to SRAM by choice, these rarely wear out), the shifters (because I changed the RD to SRAM), many spokes, pedals (because SPDs are not only terrible, they're dangerous in muddy conditions), seat, grips (2x), cable housings (yes, they wore out), and chain (2x). I'm sure as I continue to ride it, much more will need to be replaced.

I have a steel Stumpjumper from 1993. Tons of scratches and even complete areas of paint worn off. Yes, some rust is visible but the frame is still doing fine. I've never treated the inside with anything. And I live in the Seattle area where is does rain every now and then. However, newer steel frames are much thinnner than those 10-15 years ago, so I would definitely treat a new stell frame every year or so and keep and eye on the exterior as well.

What you need to know about this Garneu bike is that the steel used in the frame is really good steel and that the parts kit that come with the frame is quite good. The parts are not great but very reasonable. The fork is simple but a solid performer, the brakes are the best in their class ,and the deraillers are not fancy but work well.

The argument that steel rusts is silly. If you take care of your bike it will not rust. I know because I have 4 steel bikes at home and trust me they are not rusting. Alloy hardtails simply can't compete with steel hardtails and anyone that has ridden both knows it.

Hopperja, mikejo, and jz19 thank you for your comments. I'm almost certain that I'll buy the Louis Garneau bike (http://www.louisgarneausports.com/bike/xc-gravel.htm) (in green) that started this thread.

I'm going to have my LBS coat the inside of the frame with Boeshield (http://www.boeshield.com/).

When I get the bike, I'll post some photos of me and my new bike, whatever it may end up being.

Any further thoughts on riding MTB steel are welcomed and encouraged!

Looks like you'll be getting some pretty huge weight savings with that frame.