Mountain Biking - Rebound Adjust

how do you activate rebound adjust on a fork and how do you set it proportionate to your weight? recommendations for a 155lb guy?

depends on the fork - on rock shox you simply hv to turn a knob at the bottom of the right stantion & it's really trial and error to get it right - I hv found. You want it to rebound as quickly as possible without kicking up so fast that it you get jolted up.

Not all forks have rebound adjust - if yrs does, shud be fairly straightforward to do - check out the owners manual

turn it 432 clicks to the left

turn it up to 11!

depends on the fork - on rock shox you simply hv to turn a knob at the bottom of the right stantion & it's really trial and error to get it right - I hv found. You want it to rebound as quickly as possible without kicking up so fast that it you get jolted up.

Not all forks have rebound adjust - if yrs does, shud be fairly straightforward to do - check out the owners manual

have
have
your's
should

This isn't IM.

You want it to rebound as quickly as possible without kicking up so fast that it you get jolted up.
is this a hard fast rule?

is this a hard fast rule?


It's a good rule of thumb.... You want to set the damping to be fast enough to return to full extension with out kicking up, but with out being too slow (excessive damping) to let the fork pack up. When the fork packs up, it typically does not return to full extension fast enough before the next bump comes along and compresses the fork even more.... A few series of these and the fork can bottom out.

The way I have set it up is I press down on the bars quickly with open hands, I feel for how quickly the bars return, or if they start to feel like they are slapping my palms, then I'll dial in just a bit more damping (slowing rebound) until it feels right. It's one of those things I think you have to get a feel for. Try some adjustments on the trail and just be sure the fork isn't packing up. I have ridden with a zip tie on my stanchion at times just to see what the suspension is doing.

It's a good rule of thumb....



I know that when I ride Dirt jumps, or am doing some larger drops or hucks, I like my rebound slow, to help soften the landing and simulate that "floating" feeling.

how do you activate rebound adjust on a fork and how do you set it proportionate to your weight? recommendations for a 155lb guy?

depends...its a combination of setting the preload and then the rebound...how much travel does your fork have?

I know that when I ride Dirt jumps, or am doing some larger drops or hucks, I like my rebound slow, to help soften the landing and simulate that "floating" feeling.

It is a personal thing I suppose... :)

It is a personal thing I suppose... :)
Good point. Fast rebound works great for XC, but I like to slow things down a bit. I usually have mine set up pretty stiff, but then damped down just enough to give that smooth feel on small drops. Which reminds me, I need to take my fork in to get serviced.

Good point. Fast rebound works great for XC, but I like to slow things down a bit. I usually have mine set up pretty stiff, but then damped down just enough to give that smooth feel on small drops. Which reminds me, I need to take my fork in to get serviced.

Yep, I can see wanting a slower rebound on a Jump bike :)

Yep, I can see wanting a slower rebound on a Jump bike :)


Are you guys sure you're not thinking of the preload here?

100mm of travel. it's a rockshox dart 3

Are you guys sure you're not thinking of the preload here?

I think everyone's referring to rebound except for the OP.

have
have
your's
should

This isn't IM.

I take your point, as does the rest of the forum I'm sure, but yours is spelled thus, not with an apostrophe. Sorry. Thread jack over.

100mm of travel. it's a rockshox dart 3

OK...nice fork

Step 1 is to set the preload...with 100mm travel, you want the fork to compress about a half inch when you sit on the bike...no bouncing, just put a tie on the strut and set it so that it compresses about a half inch...this is really where your weight matters

Because the Dart 3 has a lockout...you can play with the rebound...it depends what kind of riding you do. Roots, rockgardens, XC, I like a cushioned ride so I set my fork to "float" through the harsh stuff, using the lockout for the climbs. When racing, I set the rebound very stiff, but don't use the lockout in case I hit a big bump and it blows out.

So, preload for control...rebound for comfort

Happy trails

Roots, rockgardens, XC, I like a cushioned ride so I set my fork to "float" through the harsh stuff, using the lockout for the climbs. When racing, I set the rebound very stiff, but don't use the lockout in case I hit a big bump and it blows out.

So, preload for control...rebound for comfort

Rebound damping adjustment on any shock or fork I've ever seen is either "+" (more damping, slower rebound) or "-" (less damping, faster rebound). Where exactly do "float" and "very stiff" fall on that scale?

I'm not sure that I understand the question...the forks on my XC bikes are both Fox...a Vanilla RLC coil and a Talas Float RLC...both have rebound controls on the right strut...

...so, starting at 0, if a want a plush ride, I set it at around +3 clicks, letting the fork travel the 5" failrly smoothly...in extreme conditions I'll go +10 clicks, resulting in about 3"travel at most...it will do 5" on bigger dropps, but remain very stiff under most ride conditions

I hope this makes sense

I hope this makes sense

I'm afraid it doesn't - the rebound damping control regulates the speed at which the spring is allowed to extend after compression. It shouldn't make your fork stiffer or softer or affect the amount of allowable travel.

actually, it does...last point first...the rebound adjusts the amount of force needed to compress the fork. It doesn't adjust the amount of travel, but it does adjust how much force is needed to maximize it.

see:

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tootech.html

PART II of Too Tech's Suspension Performance Tips Fine Tuning the Suspension

The rebound adjustment does exactly that...makes your fork stiffer (slower)...I think we're saying the same thing, just a different vocabulary

the rebound adjusts the amount of force needed to compress the fork.

No. Rebound has nothing to do with compression. And increasing damping does not increase the amount of force needed to compress the "spring", it only slows it down.

I'm afraid it doesn't - the rebound damping control regulates the speed at which the spring is allowed to extend after compression. It shouldn't make your fork stiffer or softer or affect the amount of allowable travel.

I think I see some confusion here in a few posts about rebound and compression dampening.
Gastro, it looks like you see this as well.

Rebound dampening slows the rebound of the fork or shock to control the pogo feel,

Compression dampening will control how fast the fork or shock compresses, and this part will have a little effect on bottoming etc.

Then spring rate and preload control the bottoming and how much sag when the rider sits on the bike.

Now we normally set up the spring rate first in that we get the springs in the propper rate for the riders weight and riding style.

Then we set up the sag with the preload for the rider and the type of riding.
1/3 to 1/2 travel for DH depending on the course and the equipment, stiffer for DJ. Normally 1/3 travel here.
For XC I like to set up with about 15 to 20% travel in sag making it just a little stiffer and less prone to bob, sometimes for certain courses 25% depending on conditions.

Then dampening gets set up last and this will entail first pushing the bars down as described above and feeling for that slap in the hands and controling this, then riding and making some adjustments to tune it in to your prefference.
Compression damping is normally adjusted to smooth out the compression stroke of the shock or fork and slow the really big hits.

The zip tie is a great way to see exactly what you are doing for shock stroke or fork travel.
We've done this for years on both the mountain bikes as well as on the motorcycles and all.

You should bottom out just a little on every ride as that is the only way that you are using all of your forks travel or shocks travel.
Otherwise you are not using your equipment to it's full potential.

Hopefully this brief run down helps a little.

actually, it does...last point first...the rebound adjusts the amount of force needed to compress the fork. It doesn't adjust the amount of travel, but it does adjust how much force is needed to maximize it.

see:

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tootech.html

PART II of Too Tech's Suspension Performance Tips Fine Tuning the Suspension

The rebound adjustment does exactly that...makes your fork stiffer (slower)...I think we're saying the same thing, just a different vocabulary


Like others have said...rebound does not equal compression, they are two separate components.

Rebound does make the fork slower (or faster), but not stiffer. And by slower/faster, they mean the amount of time it takes for the fork to 'rebound' to the 'uncompressed state' following a 'compression'. The two adjustments are generally independent, you can have the fork set stiff (with the compression setting), and have either faster rebound or slower rebound.

[quote=Gravity Worx]
Compression dampening will control how fast the fork or shock compresses, and this part will have a little effect on bottoming etc.

not entirely true...you seem confused too

Then spring rate and preload control the bottoming and how much sag when the rider sits on the bike.

no...air space/ oil height are important for bottoming resistance, not preload


The zip tie is a great way to see exactly what you are doing for shock stroke or fork travel.
We've done this for years on both the mountain bikes as well as on the motorcycles and all.

zip tie can be abrasive, O-ring better

Like others have said...rebound does not equal compression, they are two separate components. this true. however, there is an intimate connection between the two. one shouldn't neglect the consideration of adjusting one with the change in another.

this true. however, there is an intimate connection between the two. one shouldn't neglect the consideration of adjusting one with the change in another.

Obviously, as with all of the other settings on a given fork but for the sake of jm01, it appears he's confusing the two and needs to know that each rebound and compression are adjusted independently on his two forks.

I actually put that spring rate and preload control bottoming and sag. Maybe I should have seperated the 2 points? Ya, maybe.
I was trying to keep it basic for the questions at hand.
Spring rate has lots to do with bottoming, and from there preload has everything to do with sag.


To take it further, there is also oil weight, high speed dampening, low speed damping, etc. depending on the equipment at hand
I just didn't see the need for info over load, so I threw a basic set up out there with the thought that the OP would learn more from there with experience just as most others have.

there is an intimate connection between the two. one shouldn't neglect the consideration of adjusting one with the change in another.

Also very true ^^^^

The zip tie hasn't caused me any problems, but I can see the point.

Also very true ^^^^

To varying extents, and with one notable exception, yes.


The zip tie hasn't caused me any problems, but I can see the point.

I can't. From a practical standpoint, I don't see the need to completely disassemble my fork to install an o-ring on the off chance that a zip-tie might scratch the stanchion the couple times it gets pushed to it's limit. I do have an open mind, however, so I might change my opinion if evidence were to be presented of this purported zip-tie scoring on stanchions.

To varying extents, and with one notable exception, yes.



I can't. From a practical standpoint, I don't see the need to completely disassemble my fork to install an o-ring on the off chance that a zip-tie might scratch the stanchion the couple times it gets pushed to it's limit. I do have an open mind, however, so I might change my opinion if evidence were to be presented of this purported zip-tie scoring on stanchions. nope, no evidence. i wouldn't take apart to use O-ring either. i would use one when i service a fork. forks i have had on bicycles have not had the same hard coating as on my motorcycles...from my best guess. i know my reba forks, for instance, would not have as durable a coat.

you're absolutely right regarding the amount of time the hard zip tie is sliding around. i would still use an O-ring upon service. it is more professional :D

I like th elook of a clear/white Zip tie much more than an O-Ring.... At least with the Zip tie, it looks like you are doing some sort of R&D, where as the O-ring looks like your shock has blown a seal :lol:




I Keed, use what ever you like ;)

I like th elook of a clear/white Zip tie much more than an O-Ring.... At least with the Zip tie, it looks like you are doing some sort of R&D, where as the O-ring looks like your shock has blown a seal :lol: I Keed, use what ever you like ;)
:D

zip tie says to me "week-end warrior" doesn't know how to take fork apart... :p

seriously, i learned the Oring trick many years ago looking at pro-motocross set-ups in the pits.

i am sure dminor will vouch for me. but he probably uses zipties like everyone else. that is okay, i don't mind being in the minority. i tend to allow my life to take the road less traveled...for better or worse. :o

Apparently there are motocross folks that feel the same way...

http://www.motocross-racing-tips.com/motocross_suspension_setup.html
i agree totally. those who have to look up motocross 101 tips online should use a zip-tie.

:D

zip tie says to me "week-end warrior" doesn't know how to take fork apart... :p

seriously, i learned the Oring trick many years ago looking at pro-motocross set-ups in the pits.

i am sure dminor will vouch for me. but he probably uses zipties like everyone else. that is okay, i don't mind being in the minority. i tend to allow my life to take the road less traveled...for better or worse. :o


I like the O-Rings, but until I take my fork apart, or happen to have the right size on hand when I'm rebuilding my fork, the zip ties worked for me.

Besides, if somebody want's to think I'm a ""week-end warrior" doesn't know how to take fork apart..." because I'm using a zip tie, thats Ok, because they don't really know me :D

Besides, if somebody want's to think I'm a ""week-end warrior" doesn't know how to take fork apart..." because I'm using a zip tie, thats Ok, because they don't really know me :D

That's exactly right. ^^

It's funny.
I learned the zip tie method when riding ISDE. Actually picked it up from King Richards team mech at a race.

I think that if a person wants to call me a weekend warrior because I run the zip tie,
then maybe they have the issues or are just putting others down to make them selves look better.
Doesn't bother me either way.

That's exactly right. ^^

It's funny.
I learned the zip tie method when riding ISDE. Actually picked it up from King Richards team mech at a race.

I think that if a person wants to call me a weekend warrior because I run the zip tie,
then maybe they have the issues or are just putting others down to make them selves look better.
Doesn't bother me either way.

Agreed :)