Looking at them because of the float.

They're great! I have two sets of the first generation X-1's from 1993 and they're still going strong. I've got them on my road bike and on one of my fixies.

One of my favorite components (I have stainless zeros). They are almost never on sale, but two things I don't mind paying a premium for: good quality bibs and speedplay pedals/cleats.

Froggies on roadie....love it.

Sheldon

I have them...love the float, but had real bad numbness problems...
I just couldnt get them positioned correctly....
My lbs talked to the Sidi rep and he suggested an different base that allowed for moving the cleats even further...wow...best $25 I ever spent...now ..no pain and I am finally enjoying all the benefits of Speedplays!

edit: I have X2's on my roadie...and just pulled the spd's off my trainer bike and put x5s on...much better on the trainer as well!

I have X-3s on one bike and X-5s on the other. I love them.

Been rocking the Zeros for a little over a year now and love them. No complaints even from a big guy (6'0" 255lbs)

I have Zero SS on my road and TT bike. Can't imagine a better pedal and I agree they are definitely worth the money - especially if you've ever had cleat-related knee problems. I've heard some people experience numbness and some complain they feel like you're walking on ice. I've not experienced either sensation. I also like the double sidedness which makes entry a bit simpler.

I don't like them, and I will be the decenting opinion. I need platform in my pedals, I have used SPDs, speedplays, and looks, but settled on SPD-SL...

Speedplays are great if you want the float, or like a small platform - personally I would rather be locked in stable...

Been using the Speedplay X2 pedals for 3 years. I will probably switch to the Speedplay Zero pedals when and if it comes time to replace.

I have a very bad left knee and had problems with every pedal system I tried. Then Speedplays came out in 88 and I haven't ridden anything since. The float is the best feature, but there are others I enjoy almost as much. Like the low profile for crit cornering. I have yet to skip a pedal using Speedplays. Also the idiot proof dual sided entry is great, again when rolling out at the beginning of a crit when positioning is important. I always seem to pass riders who are fumbling to get their cleat in the pedal. The down side is the cleats do wear out too fast for my taste and the replacement cost is too high IMO. They need to sell the cleats in pieces.

So, the short answer is yes, I like em

Speedplays are a must for messed up knees. I've got X-2's on all 3 of my roadies and it really only took a few rides to get used to the "skating on ice" effect. I'd never ride anything else.

I've been using them for over 10 years (original, X2 and ti versions) with good results until last fall...when I had a fall. I had one unclip while cornering. This has happend to me before on rare occasion but this time it led to a crash. I can't completely write it off to the pedals as operator error had something to do with it.

After my experience I did some investigation and found that most of the pros that use them opt for the Zeros as they are a little more stable in such situations. I will likely do the same soon.

I don't like them, and I will be the decenting opinion. I need platform in my pedals, I have used SPDs, speedplays, and looks, but settled on SPD-SL...

Speedplays are great if you want the float, or like a small platform - personally I would rather be locked in stable...

I hope you guys are ready for this I HATE THEM!!

From the CEO Richard Bryne http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.choose

1. "First, he says, look for a clipless pedal system that is user friendly. "If the pedals aren't easy to get in and out of don't bother with them"

Rebuttal-- I think Speedplay pedals are harder to get into than Look Pedals. I work in a shop and sell bikes to experienced riders and beginners alike. It takes riders (on a trainer) more time to learn how to get in to Speedplay than Looks. If you tighten down the mounting screws you risk not getting in them among other things. With Looks they are in them in literally seconds. Getting out of them you really can't tell the difference.

HOWEVER, if you ride in the rain you will have trouble getting in and out of them (unless you carry lube with you). ALSO, if you are doing sponsored events many times the aid station is off the road and you have to walk on dirt/sand and other surfaces and all that stuff gets stuck in your metal cleats and then you try to engage a metal pedal--- it won't be "easy". Once again this is from months of evaluating them.

Look pedals Carbon Pedal and Plastic cleat very easy to get in and out of in inclement weather.

2. "Second, you'll want dual-sided pedals. "You don't want to have to look down and kick at a pedal trying to locate the platform after every stop"..."With dual-sided pedals you just step down and go"

Rebuttal--Total BS. HYPE HYPE HYPE. I have tried them again and again for months at a time. The Speedplay rep keeps giving me pedals because he knows I am a Look guy. I am currently riding them. This morning I kept trying to get in them by just stepping down. Most of the time the pedal wasn't flat and so it wouldn't engage. Look pedals always hang down, spin them as much as you want and they will always hang down. You just drag your foot across the pedal and step down. BTW, if your Speedplay pedal rotates freely then that is bad and it should be serviced with grease. Which then means you have to buy a kit to service them. Cleats are also 40 bucks. Look 15 bucks.

3. "Third, when choosing a clipless pedal system you'll want to consider float, and the type of float: recentering or non-recentering. "During the pedal stroke, feet follow their natural path, eliminating knee strain."

Rebuttal--Personally, I hate float. Whenever I ride Speedplay pedals I "feel like I am on ice skates". I ride a fixed cleat or minimal float. On both multi-speed and Fixed Gear and have never had knee problems. So that completely rules out the X series pedals which are full float all the time. And then by the time you adjust the Zero pedals from the 15 degrees of float to something manageable you are back to the realistic and practical float allowed by Look Keos (9 degrees with red cleat).

Whenever I am behind someone and see whacky pedal mechanics I can bet they are riding Speedplays before I even look at their pedals. I have actually switched people from Speedplays when they come into the shop complaining of knee problems and they come back thanking me.

4. 1) Weight. "The lighter the pedal, the less weight you carry up hills."

The Zero Ti pedals (highest level and most expensive, over $300.) are less than 6 grams lighter than Look Keo ($220). The most common bolt pattern on a shoe is 3-hole. With Speedplay you have to use the adapter to convert from 3-hole to 4-hole. Which adds weight.. So while the pedals themselves are lighter the cleats and adapters (the total system) is actually much heavier than what most people look at... which is the pedal weight . I have weighed them personally on a gram scale many times in front of potential buyers at the shop.

Just look at their own website comparison chart.

http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=roadcompare.compareroad

Now select Zero Ti and Look Keo notice weight with 3 bolt pattern

Now select Zero Ti and Look Keo Ti " "

$100.00 extra dollars for 6 gram savings? And the float can be the same on a Look Keo. Black Cleat Fixed 0 float, Grey Cleat 4.5 degrees, Red Cleat 9 degrees of float.


2) A secure locking mechanism. "You don't want your foot releasing inadvertently."

Look pedals have adjustable locking mechanism. Depending on the level of pedal you buy the spring tension is stronger as you move to competitive pedals.

3) Stable cleat-to-shoe contact area. "It increases foot stability and reduces fatigue."

The surface area is greater on a Look Keo pedal than on a Speedplay pedal.

Look Keo 259.91mm(squared)

Speedplay 188.15mm(squared)

on www.look-keo.com (http://www.look-keo.com) follow the next arrows at the bottom of each page.

4) And lastly, he says, check out a pedal's foot-spindle distance. "The closer your foot is to the pedal spindle, the more efficient your pedal stroke."

The Q-factor as this is called is a shorter distance on the Look Keo pedals only 53mm

you do realize that this is short attention span territory...I started reading your post....three times...but I did get the part that you hated them...so I guess that is the point.

no offense intended..I will read your post in full tomorrow...I promise!

I hope you guys are ready for this I HATE THEM!!

From the CEO Richard Bryne http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.choose

1. "First, he says, look for a clipless pedal system that is user friendly. "If the pedals aren't easy to get in and out of don't bother with them"

Rebuttal-- I think Speedplay pedals are harder to get into than Look Pedals. I work in a shop and sell bikes to experienced riders and beginners alike. It takes riders (on a trainer) more time to learn how to get in to Speedplay than Looks. If you tighten down the mounting screws you risk not getting in them among other things. With Looks they are in them in literally seconds. Getting out of them you really can't tell the difference.

HOWEVER, if you ride in the rain you will have trouble getting in and out of them (unless you carry lube with you). ALSO, if you are doing sponsored events many times the aid station is off the road and you have to walk on dirt/sand and other surfaces and all that stuff gets stuck in your metal cleats and then you try to engage a metal pedal--- it won't be "easy". Once again this is from months of evaluating them.

Look pedals Carbon Pedal and Plastic cleat very easy to get in and out of in inclement weather.

2. "Second, you'll want dual-sided pedals. "You don't want to have to look down and kick at a pedal trying to locate the platform after every stop"..."With dual-sided pedals you just step down and go"

Rebuttal--Total BS. HYPE HYPE HYPE. I have tried them again and again for months at a time. The Speedplay rep keeps giving me pedals because he knows I am a Look guy. I am currently riding them. This morning I kept trying to get in them by just stepping down. Most of the time the pedal wasn't flat and so it wouldn't engage. Look pedals always hang down, spin them as much as you want and they will always hang down. You just drag your foot across the pedal and step down. BTW, if your Speedplay pedal rotates freely then that is bad and it should be serviced with grease. Which then means you have to buy a kit to service them. Cleats are also 40 bucks. Look 15 bucks.

3. "Third, when choosing a clipless pedal system you'll want to consider float, and the type of float: recentering or non-recentering. "During the pedal stroke, feet follow their natural path, eliminating knee strain."

Rebuttal--Personally, I hate float. I ride a fixed cleat or minimal float. On both multi-speed and Fixed Gear and have never had knee problems. Whenever I am behind someone and see whacky pedal mechanics I can bet they are riding Speedplays before I even look at their pedals. I have actually switched people from Speedplays when they come into the shop complaining of knee problems and they come back thanking me.

4. 1) Weight. "The lighter the pedal, the less weight you carry up hills."

The Zero Ti pedals (highest level and most expensive, over $300.) are less than 6 grams lighter than Look Keo ($220). The most common bolt pattern on a shoe is 3-hole. With Speedplay you have to use the adapter to convert from 3-hole to 4-hole. Which adds weight.. So while the pedals themselves are lighter the cleats and adapters (the total system) is actually much heavier than what most people look at... which is the pedal weight . I have weighed them personally on a gram scale many times in front of potential buyers at the shop.
Just look at their own website comparison chart.

http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=roadcompare.roadresults

2) A secure locking mechanism. "You don't want your foot releasing inadvertently."

Look pedals have adjustable locking mechanism. Depending on the level of pedal you buy the spring tension is stronger as you move to competitive pedals.

3) Stable cleat-to-shoe contact area. "It increases foot stability and reduces fatigue."

The surface area is greater on a Look Keo pedal than on a Speedplay pedal.

Look Keo 259.91mm(squared)

Speedplay 188.15mm(squared)

on www.look-keo.com follow the next arrows at the bottom of each page.

4) And lastly, he says, check out a pedal's foot-spindle distance. "The closer your foot is to the pedal spindle, the more efficient your pedal stroke."

The Q-factor as this is called is a shorter distance on the Look Keo pedals only 53mm

Just summed up everything I would have said, but after talking to students and staff for 6 hours today I did not want to explain...

Speedplay may be great in perfect pristine environment, but then I don't ride in those conditions (except when I raced)... and cleats - I hate cleat covers!

Thanks for starting this thread and thanks for the great reply Vireo. I am currently looking at changing pedal systems. I started out mountain biking in '97 and obviously I was riding with SPD's. Then '04 came along and I started road biking and I stuck with SPD's. To be quite honest I feel kinda akward with them while on my road bike and the shoes aren't exactly the best looking for the situation. I was seriously considering Speedplays, but I too have heard negative things overall about the cleat system. Too bad because like SPD's, I really liked the idea of dual sided entry. Luckily I don't have any knee issues, and although I have no idea how much float my SPD's offer if any, I really don't think that is is neceassary for me to ride well. I am currently researching both LOOK and Shimano SPD-SL.

I have wondered about Speedplays.
Seems it is definitely a Love/Hate realtionship.
Was considering road pedals for the Rubaix, but hey.....

I currently use SPD 959 mt bike pedals on the roadie.
As such, can walk w/o problems, clip in on either side,
and grass, mud, dog poop doesn't effect the clip in/out at all.

I don't have to buy an extra shoe for each bike, and cleats are cheap,
even have an extra set from the second set of pedals!

Now I don't have experience with road pedals, but so far, everyone I've asked
says it doesn't make much diff if it's road or Mt pedals. It's all about what
you like....
Now, whats the benefits of road pedals, if any?

I don't like them, and I will be the decenting opinion. I need platform in my pedals, I have used SPDs, speedplays, and looks, but settled on SPD-SL...

Speedplays are great if you want the float, or like a small platform - personally I would rather be locked in stable...

Actually I'm with you. I used Speedplays for 3 years and developed horrible foot problems. I switched to Dura Ace and the problem has basically vanished. I also need a platform.

Note I thought I needed Speedplays because of the float. I switched to a pedal with limited float and my knee problems went away so turns out I don't need float.

I really like my Time ZControl pedals on my mountain bike so I am thinking of switching to the roadie version (Time Atac) on the road bike. Any thoughts?

I have wondered about Speedplays.
Seems it is definitely a Love/Hate realtionship.
Was considering road pedals for the Rubaix, but hey.....

I currently use SPD 959 mt bike pedals on the roadie.
As such, can walk w/o problems, clip in on either side,
and grass, mud, dog poop doesn't effect the clip in/out at all.

I don't have to buy an extra shoe for each bike, and cleats are cheap,
even have an extra set from the second set of pedals!

Now I don't have experience with road pedals, but so far, everyone I've asked
says it doesn't make much diff if it's road or Mt pedals. It's all about what
you like....
Now, whats the benefits of road pedals, if any?


This is a valid question.

Road pedals are lighter. In road cycling the rider/bike system is constantly changing speed. Road cycling is more dynamic than let's say triathlon where you would want to maintain a certain speed or effort level so you can conserve energy for the run portion of your event. In road cycling you are attacking on the climbs, sprinting over rollers, sprinting for the line, or riding tempo on long climbs.

What does this mean? Well the weight of your bike only matters in two instances a. when changing your current speed i.e. from a stop or from 15mph to 20 mph and when fighting gravity i.e. hill climbing. Weight is actually an advantage while maintaining a speed or descending. Whenever you get anal about weight think of a semi on the grapevine... slow to climb but get out of its way on the descent.

So where are the most beneficial places to reduce weight on your bike? First and foremost obviously you. As the rider you are the largest portion of the equation. But then the bike and then things that rotate. So your wheels, pedals and shoes and cranks. The larger the arc of rotation the the more benefit.

Road pedals and SHOES are lighter than mountain style pedals and shoes. Road shoes while awkard for walking (not designed for that) are available with carbon fiber soles. This is a huge advancement for shoes. THE POWER TRANSFER OF A CARBON SOLE SHOE IS A SIGNIFICANT ADVANTAGE AND WILL IMMEDIATELY IMPROVE YOUR PERFORMANCE.

I just switched from MTB SPD shoes/pedals to SPD-SLs with Specialized carbon shoes. The main benefit for me is a larger platform, which makes my feet more comfortable on long rides. It feels like there is better power transfer but I wouldn't bet money on it. I have had no significant problems going to single sided pedals.

...


3) Stable cleat-to-shoe contact area. "It increases foot stability and reduces fatigue."

The surface area is greater on a Look Keo pedal than on a Speedplay pedal.

Look Keo 259.91mm(squared)

Speedplay 188.15mm(squared)

on www.look-keo.com (http://www.look-keo.com) follow the next arrows at the bottom of each page.

4) And lastly, he says, check out a pedal's foot-spindle distance. "The closer your foot is to the pedal spindle, the more efficient your pedal stroke."

The Q-factor as this is called is a shorter distance on the Look Keo pedals only 53mm

Just a couple corrections that I'd suggest:

Surface/contact area seems to be measured very differently by the two manufacturers, and Speedplay's presentation shows a different outcome in this comaprison, with Speedplay having more cleat/shoe contat area, and more cleat/pedal contact area than the Keo.

http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.platformcleat


Also, "Q factor" refers to crank arm width. Shoe height above pedal axle is "stack height" is it not?

Also, I'd add that I use the Zeros and find them easy to get into and out of, have no pedal related hotspots, like the double sided entry system, and find them quite secure. The cleats definitely need to be installed correctly. Maintenance has been easy so far, requiring only a few drops of lube on the cleats every so often, and the pedals are supposed to need the bearings lubed, but haven't had them long enough to do that yet.

I use them with Specialized Pro Carbons, and have been very happy. FWIW, the only other pedals I've used are old toe-clips and straps, and more recently, faux SPDs (Wellgo) with Shimano mtn. bike shoes. Absolutely *hated* those.

One thing to remember, it is not cleat to shoe contact area, but pedal to shoe contact area. More cleat area will allow more support pulling up, and a larger pedal more support on the pushing side - it is the pushing side that causes people problems generally speaking, as after the dead spot the pulling foot does a fraction of the work (unless you are climbing...)

it is not cleat to shoe contact area, but pedal to shoe contact area.

I think you mean pedal-to-cleat for the latter? Regardless, I think both cleat-to-shoe and pedal-to-cleat are significant factors.

LOOK user 1986 - present. there is no alternative for me. i have witnessed countless problems with other pedal systems, time, speedplay, shimano(spd), and those silly eggbeater things, and whenever i hand over an old pair of LOOKs, people are happy.

LOOK user 1986 - present.
Either you've been riding since you were 12, or you're older than you look.

Either you've been riding since you were 12, or you're older than you look.

i've been riding since i was 13 :)

how old do i look?

One thing to remember, it is not cleat to shoe contact area, but pedal to shoe contact area. More cleat area will allow more support pulling up, and a larger pedal more support on the pushing side - it is the pushing side that causes people problems generally speaking, as after the dead spot the pulling foot does a fraction of the work (unless you are climbing...)
Care to elaborate on this? I don't understand why cleat area matters more pulling up and pedal area more pushing down. I'm not disputing this; I've just never really thought about it.

i've been riding since i was 13 :)

how old do i look?
A year younger than you are, apparently. :p

I think this thread is ripe and ready to roll into a (ti, steel, carbon, aluminum:please pick one frame material) is better than (ti, steel, carbon, aluminum:please pick one frame material) kind of argument. If we are moving onto frames please substitue pharses like stiff, flex, ride quality, comfort, durability, fragile and expense for the pedal phrases ease of use, stiff, light, float, q factor, weight and durability.

Hey whatever works for you is the best pedal. I have a freind that destroys most people using 10 year old running shoes strapped down to his pedals.

ALSO, if you are doing sponsored events many times the aid station is off the road and you have to walk on dirt/sand and other surfaces and all that stuff gets stuck in your metal cleats and then you try to engage a metal pedal--- it won't be "easy". Once again this is from months of evaluating them.



George does bring up a valid point and the only negative thing I find with Speedplay. Getting crap in the cleats makes it very hard to clip and unclip.

When we were riding in the Death Valley Spring Century a few weeks ago, one of the rest stops was in the desert sand. I used cleat covers and the fine sand still found its way into my cleats with other desert debris.

For the next 50+ miles I had to deal with hard to clip in syndrome.

I have used my speedplays in the rain and didn't have much of an issue. The sand was an issue however.

George does bring up a valid point and the only negative thing I find with Speedplay. Getting crap in the cleats makes it very hard to clip and unclip.

When we were riding in the Death Valley Spring Century a few weeks ago, one of the rest stops was in the desert sand. I used cleat covers and the fine sand still found its way into my cleats with other desert debris.

For the next 50+ miles I had to deal with hard to clip in syndrome.

I have used my speedplays in the rain and didn't have much of an issue. The sand was an issue however.

+1..yes that has been my biggest issue....dirt or sand from rest stops...

I've had a set of Zeros for about 15 months now, and it's definitely love/hate.

Love:
1. ease of entry - just step on 'em
2. ability to add grease to bearings w/o dismantling pedal
3. user-adjustable float
4. replaceable engagement 'lips' on the pedals
5. an actual english-speaking person will quickly answer the phone at the factory - no waiting, no menu

Hate:
1. dumb-ass grease port design that incorporates a microscopic screw that I will eventually drop and never see again; also the cap will back out of the pedal as you squeeze grease in unless you keep a LOT of force on it with the grease gun needle
2. getting cleat screws not-too-tight and not-too-loose
3. cost of replacement cleats - $40!
4. cleats require dry lube every 2 rides or begin to be difficult to engage
5. if you need wedge/length adjustment like I do (Lemond LeWedges), it will be impossible to tighten cleat screws enough to hold the slippery stack of wedges in place and still have the C-spring operate properly so you can engage the pedal. Even with locktite, one of the cleats actually fell off the shoe a couple of months ago on a climb in a 32 degree rain a long ways from home. And yes, I use longer screws.

As far as the dirt-in-the-cleat issue, I'm in the habit of knocking my shoe against my pedal if I've been walking. So far, no problems there.

Overall, I doubt if I'd buy another set.

I think it all boils down to your riding style, whether a component works for you or not.

I have a freind that destroys most people using 10 year old running shoes strapped down to his pedals.

everyone has a friend like that, but i have to admit mine usually has newer shoes. tell your friend he can get a decent deal on some cheap running shoes at BIG 5. they have a weekly sale:)

Ah, now this thread has been interesting and useful, nice responses by all. I've been thinking about switching off my SPD's to a road pedal as I do slip out of the SPDs on climbs on occassion.

I have a hard time seeing that happening now. I'll grant the performance improvement if I were to go all the way to a carbon fiber sole, but it isn't worth it to me personally as I don't really have any chance to be competitive in racing or climbing.

The SPD's allow me to walk relatively comfortably for a long ways (as I found out on my 7 mile walk the other day when I had a sidewall blowout) and don't cause me knee issues or hotspotting.

If I was in a competitive environment, I'd definitely switch to road pedals. The few seconds I lose clipping in again are nothing to the minutes I'm losing due to my climbing engine.

Dauphin: I don't believe anybody's asked, but, do you have wide feet? I have size 9.5 E width feet, and Speedplays were nothing but hot coals to my feet. Even with LeMond LeWedges, Superfeet insoles, and carbon-soled shoes to compensate.

I went to Ultegra SPD-SL's, and the hotspots went away. Quite frankly, once I set the cleat angle to my perfect position, I didn't miss the free-float of the speedplays. What I missed was the stomp-n-go and double-sidedness convenience of speedplay.

After looking long and hard, I decided to try Crank Brothers EggBeaters (the ones that look like eggbeaters), but used the Quattro road cleat with them (these have a sort of platform that makes the contact patch wider as the cleat rests on the spindle on either side of the pedal frame.

For $49 (Performance sale), this was a dream come true. I have the wide platform like the SPD-SL, but the convenience of 4-sided entry. They're lightweight, easy to maintain, and since I have them on both of my mtb's, they're easily replaceable. Just did 50 today on them, and my feet feel absolutely great.


...you might want to check out Bebop's as well...I think Cambria has them.

Ah, now this thread has been interesting and useful, nice responses by all. I've been thinking about switching off my SPD's to a road pedal as I do slip out of the SPDs on climbs on occassion.

I have a hard time seeing that happening now. I'll grant the performance improvement if I were to go all the way to a carbon fiber sole, but it isn't worth it to me personally as I don't really have any chance to be competitive in racing or climbing.

The SPD's allow me to walk relatively comfortably for a long ways (as I found out on my 7 mile walk the other day when I had a sidewall blowout) and don't cause me knee issues or hotspotting.

If I was in a competitive environment, I'd definitely switch to road pedals. The few seconds I lose clipping in again are nothing to the minutes I'm losing due to my climbing engine.


My spd pedals seem to work great.
With the SIDI Dominator shoes extra stiff sole, there isn't a lot of flex. I can't
imagine that other shoes are all that much stiffer.

I agree that being able to walk is a big plus for me. Often I'll stop and walk a section
of the beach, or, like you, had to walk a few miles home once.
I just couldn't imagine trying to walk 4-7 miles in roadie shoes....

However, always wanting the latest and greatest, I can't say I'll never go
to roadies, just not now.

I will never use any other pedals. I have used x2s and now I have Zeros.

Dauphin: I don't believe anybody's asked, but, do you have wide feet? I have size 9.5 E width feet, and Speedplays were nothing but hot coals to my feet. Even with LeMond LeWedges, Superfeet insoles, and carbon-soled shoes to compensate.

I went to Ultegra SPD-SL's, and the hotspots went away. Quite frankly, once I set the cleat angle to my perfect position, I didn't miss the free-float of the speedplays. What I missed was the stomp-n-go and double-sidedness convenience of speedplay.

After looking long and hard, I decided to try Crank Brothers EggBeaters (the ones that look like eggbeaters), but used the Quattro road cleat with them (these have a sort of platform that makes the contact patch wider as the cleat rests on the spindle on either side of the pedal frame.

For $49 (Performance sale), this was a dream come true. I have the wide platform like the SPD-SL, but the convenience of 4-sided entry. They're lightweight, easy to maintain, and since I have them on both of my mtb's, they're easily replaceable. Just did 50 today on them, and my feet feel absolutely great.


...you might want to check out Bebop's as well...I think Cambria has them.

Nope...10.5 normal width..not wide or narrow.

In my opinion, it's one of those pedals that you read about how great it is, but no one actually knows for sure because no one uses them. I've never met anyone that likes them. My personal favorite is the Egg beaters. Been using those for a few years now and can't see myself ever using anything else.

i've been riding since i was 13 :)

how old do i look?

Woah, when I was riding at age 13, my parents would only buy me the $5 x-mart plastic pedals.

Well, I'm not sure what I think of Speedplays anymore. Let me explain why...

I just completed the MS150 down in Texas. The conditions at the breakpoints were alternately muddy and gravelly. Well, long-story-short, the conditions just gunked up and ruined the cleats beyond all repair. After walking through just TWO breakpoints, I had to get replacement pedals (keo's) installed by one of the on-site techs at the lunch stop.

As far as the pedals themselves go, I really liked them. Nice and comfy, easy to get into and out of. But with such an apparently fragile interface - meaning, one or two exposures to dirt literally destroys the cleat - I'm not sure I'd recommend them anymore. Who wants to worry about pedal failure all the time?

Just my two cents...

sb.

I think it all boils down to your riding style, whether a component works for you or not.
+1 I love my Looks, but I need that little bit of a platform they offer as I often miss the cleat when going through stoplights (taking off), and having that platform makes it easy to just push through the light until I can clip back in. Plus, Look pedals are so easy to get in and out of. But most riders I know who use Speedplay swear by them.

I just recently switched from SPD's to LOOKS because of a recent high end bike purchase that I made. I was seriously contemplating Speedplays but the cleat system on those things really turned me off, so I decided to go with the LOOKS instead. Am I truly happy with my choice? No, but I think that all pedal systems just like everything else have their pros and cons. I seriously think that you should end the debate and get the Speedplays and try them out. If they don't end up working for you, they can always be sold on ebay or something and you can try a different format.

I just recently switched from SPD's to LOOKS because of a recent high end bike purchase that I made. I was seriously contemplating Speedplays but the cleat system on those things really turned me off, so I decided to go with the LOOKS instead. Am I truly happy with my choice? No, but I think that all pedal systems just like everything else have their pros and cons. I seriously think that you should end the debate and get the Speedplays and try them out. If they don't end up working for you, they can always be sold on ebay or something and you can try a different format.

Ed...why dont you like them?

i'm new to clipless pedals and recently bought a pair of speedplay light action. i love 'em. my question is the required lubricant with a grease gun. does one have to buy the grease gun that speedplay sells or is there some other substitute i could use?

thanks,

willy

willysson@doramail.com

i'm new to clipless pedals and recently bought a pair of speedplay light action. i love 'em. my question is the required lubricant with a grease gun. does one have to buy the grease gun that speedplay sells or is there some other substitute i could use?

thanks,

willy

willysson@doramail.com


I use the one Finish Line sells! Works fine!
Enjoy the Speedplays!

For those who are a bit obsessive and compuslive, the Speedplays Zero stainless, will give you the chance to manifest this. Try keeping them clean, the cleats, I mean.

The major complaint is that compared to the X-2, the Zero's are way too difficult to break in and the break in is mostly when the 4 screws loosen up. This is when the compusive people can really shine. Because the screws are in need of routine adjustment to keep the screws from getting too loose, the rider should remove the cleat, and clean them. First the metal piece and then the yellow plastic piece and then the bottom of the shoe. Also the 4 screws should be cleaned out because road grime and dry lubricant tends to cake up as well.

When cleaned and dried, the reassembly is critical with the 4 screws. Too tight and you will have difficulty getting in and out of the pedals. Too loose and the screws will eventually fall out, hopefully not during a ride.

I suggest that the Speedplay people find another way to fasten the cleat to the shoe and another independnt way to adjust the tension.