Bicycle Mechanics - Brooks Saddle Tensioning

MichaelW and other Brooks aficionados,

My B-17 seems like it might be getting a little slack that may suggest it needs tensioning. How do I know for sure? The instructions warn against overtensioning but do not really explain how to know when it is needed. Any wisdom from the old masters?
Regards,
Raymond

I havent got to that stage on my B17 yet.
The wisdom from Brooks is little and rarely. I don't think they need doing every year.

Rainman,
Keep a little slack in it. Don't make it hard and taught. If it feels OK don't worry about it. If it's getting real sloppy and rubbing your thighs then tighten it a bit. You mentioned it "might be slack"- "If it aint broke don't fix it" !! Keep your Butt happy!
Ride Comfortable
Pat

Servus Rainman!

As a longtime Brooks Colt rider (alas, no more) I think I tightened the tesion bolt all of twice in about three years. The most important maintenance action I performed was to rub Neatsfoot oil into it every Monday night. After time, it fit my tush as though it was custom made!

I would advise that you use the Brooks Proofide instead of the oil. I always wore cycling shorts while riding, but the one time I didn't...black stains in the crotch of my jeans. Not cool!

Thanks, guys! I really don't think it needs tensioning any time soon; just being proactive!

I am now the proud owner of TWO Brooks saddles. The cheap factory saddle on the new old Bianchi I bought just didn't seem suitable for such a classic looking bike so I got a Brooks what Sheldon Brown calls the Team Professional Champion Deluxe. Slightly narrower than the B17, honey brown with large rivets. Right now I have it on my commuter to break it in since it is ridden every day. I have been generous with the Proofide on both saddles, greasin' 'em up and putting them in front of gentle heat to soften the Proofide and encourage it to absorb. The new one is taking on a beautiful patina after only 140 miles or so.

I haven't even had a chance to ride the old Bianchi since I returned from my travels. I plan to commute on it once a week or so, but it we have been having rain here and there every day. It will only be ridden on dry days.
Regards,
Raymond

By the way the Proofide goes on the BOTTOM/UNDERSIDE of the saddle and your body heats activates it to come to the top/surface. Those of you who use NeatsFoeet Oil on your saddles use it only during the break-in period for a short time as extended use of the oil will OVERSOFTEN the leather.
When using heat on the saddle be very careful, as heat of over 110 degrees will damage leather.
Ride comfortable not soft
Pat

Pat,
My LBS buddy who sold me the seats and rode Brooks for many years told me the same thing. But the instructions that came with the saddles say differently. The instructions say to treat the saddle by application of Proofide then buffing and that if the saddle may be ridden in wet conditions that the underside of the saddle should be treated to protect it from water thrown up from beneath but to omit the buffing

I feel myself lapsing into my normal state: Confused!
Thanks,
Raymond

Another country heard from...

I used the Lexol (yet another leather conditioner, couldn't find any neatsfoot) method, that I think was recommended by Sheldon Brown when I first got my Brooks... wrap the top in foil, turn it upside down, add Lexol and let it soak overnight. Since then, I just use Proofide.

I don't treat it very often, but when I do I treat all leather surfaces that I can get to. I put on a coat thin enough that there's none that hasn't soaked in when I buff it a day later.

I can't say that this is the best, or even the right treatment, but after about 5 or so years the saddle is still doing fine. And that may be due largely to the fact that it's rarely gotten wet, except from perspiration, and not been exposed to much direct sunlight (when I'm not covering it, I usually put a plastic grocery bag or something over it).

Thanks for the info, Roadbuzz. Lexol is good stuff. I have used it on leather belts I made. I think I do remember reading Sheldon's tips on that. So far I have just been using the Proofide, and things are progressing nicely.
Regards,
Raymond

I just follow Brooks instructions, Profhide on the top surface and on the underside.

Other treatments may block the pores or soften the leather too much.
I never had a problem breaking mine in, just do it very gradually over a few weeks. Dont expect to ride 50 miles on a brand new Brooks; I limited my use to a few miles around town, until I could feel it shaping up. I just dont understand the need for extreme treatment of a saddle.

MichaelW,
Thanks for the post. My commute of 9 miles AM, 13 miles PM seems to be just right for saddle break-in. I have ridden as far as 30 miles on my B-17 and went 22 on the Team Professional Friday with no discomfort. The TP is not uncomfortable but not as comfortable as the B-17 out of the box, but then it is narrower and made of thicker, harder leather. The only thing I have done that is not mentioned in the instructions is that I like to rub on Proofide then set the saddle in front of a space heater. I put it far enough away that it does not get hot, probably no more than body temperature. But it is enough to soften the Proofide and hopefully encourage absorption. I don't know if this actually does any good, but it certainly is not enough heat to do any harm. I know what heat can do to leather!
Regards,
Raymond

Raymond:

Don't tension your saddle unless you feel it is absolutely necessary. You are likely to do more harm than good.

I tore a saddle in half by tensioning. I didn't think I was putting in too much tension, but alas. It was a sad day to say the least.

Mike,
I have a mental image of doing something like that which is why I am going to be VERY conservative. A little inclined plane and some leverage can get you in a lot of trouble if you aren't careful.

You should have seen the look on my wife's face when I told her I needed to grease my seat. :D

Regards,
Raymond

Unfortunately, due to the fact that the pre-softened saddles wore out quickly, Brooks stopped making them about 1 year ago. My Professional is of the "non-softened" type, and broke in within a week. There are still a few sellers trying to sell the old pre-softened saddles, but if you want a saddle which will last, go for the regular leather.

D*Alex,
ONE WEEK! Wow, my Team Professional is just starting to dimple after two weeks, and I have been socking it with warm Proofide and twice daily applications of, uh, let's just say healthy doses of gravity (ie, me).
Regards,
Raymond

I used a brooks B17 for around 3000 miles and really liked the confort but I kept getting a sore spot just behind my you know whats . I did everthing I could think of in ways of adjusting the saddle. Had to go back to the Flite saddle which is a good hard down in the drops hammering saddle but just does not have that "I feel like spending all day in the saddle feel."
Reallly miss my Brooks though.

Ride safe....Dudley

If you have trouble getting Proofhide into the tight spots on the bottom of your saddle, try melting it and pouring it in. I just did that yesterday, and it seems to work, except that you will inevitably use a lot of it. I didn't even know that it is recommended to treat the bottom until reading the forum today.

Cheers,

Ryan

I have put about 50K miles and 28 years of cycling on my Brooks Pro, which came off of "Mr. Supergo.com's" then-new Peugeot PX-10, after he gave up trying to break it in. I have never retensioned it, and I have used both saddle soap (which Brooks does NOT recommend) and ProofHide over the years. I currently use it on a bike with full mudguards, on the theory that it is important to keep the backside of the leather dry. I still consider it the most comfortable saddle I have ever owned.