Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - what crank length do you use on your fixie?

??

165, because it's the coolest of all crank lengths.

I have a set thats 172.5 too but I can't vote twice.

You math nerds and your millimeters crack me up, I measure cranks by squinting at them over my thumb.

i dont even measure.




just look for the number stamped into them....

You math nerds and your millimeters crack me up, I measure cranks by squinting at them over my thumb.

the ones I have say the length on the back

You math nerds and your millimeters crack me up, I measure cranks by squinting at them over my thumb.

You don't even want to know what body part I use for reference.

I run 170s 171s and 165s

I voted 170mm. I have three running 170 and two with 165.

Track bike - 170, w/ narrow pedals, so no pedal clip, but I'm not so sure I could swap out the GR-9's and keep zero pedal strike risk...

Road converter - 175 with a low BB, it's a death trap in all senses and what I learned on. I need to throw some 165's on that thing...

road: 170
cross: 172.5
fixed: 165

172.5, 6'-3" tall

road 172.5mm
singlespeed 170mm
XC bike 175mm.

You don't even want to know what body part I use for reference.
your forearm? here's to cubit-length crankarms...

165mm now, but soon to be 170mm.

Why? :)

167.5 because I like to be a difficult customer

170mm on the around town conversion, 175mm on the Langster. I went with 175mm because that's what I've always used on mtn, ss, and road bikes. You get used to a length..

Fixed gear: 165mm
Singlespeed: 170mm
Road bike: 175mm

165 because thats what I got for christmas.

165 because bikeforums told me so

1.65000000e-25 Yoctometers

175 on the fixed, but only because they're still the stock ones. I really wanna get some 167.5's.

i use 165s on my road bike too.

When there's a moderator who goes by [170], I'll use those.

For reasons of high spin rates and ground clearance, 165 probably makes the most sense for fixed gear.

However, my first fixie came from the factory with 170's, and it felt OK, and, leaning the bike into the down-side pedal, I had to lean it so far I could not imagine ever having pedal strike.

A friend put 175's on his conversion, since he used 175's on his regular road bike.
He experienced pedal strike and found just going down to 170's gave him sufficient clearance, even with the lower bottom bracket of a conversion frame.

172.5 because that's the length on all my other bikes and consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds.

I run 170s but I really want to try some super long cranks. If I get a custom frame built (road or track) I am going to go with a high bottom bracket with 175 or 180 cranks. I am a tall guy (6'2"-3") so why should my cranks not also be long? Bars as wide as the horizon too, and a headtube longer than a brake/brakeless thread.

180 could be deadly on any frame if you're running fixed. If you do end up doing that, either learn to steer through all your turns instead of leaning, or go clipless. With 175's on a road conversion with low BB, I learned to steer and make wider turns, but I think having to consciously think about your turns all the time like that takes away from the riding experience. That bike will have 165's on it when I finally get around to building it back up.

180 could be deadly on any frame if you're running fixed. If you do end up doing that, either learn to steer through all your turns instead of leaning, or go clipless. With 175's on a road conversion with low BB, I learned to steer and make wider turns, but I think having to consciously think about your turns all the time like that takes away from the riding experience. That bike will have 165's on it when I finally get around to building it back up.

It would be no problem on the track. Especially on a frame designed for them with a high bb. We have a REAAAALLY steep track available to us, so you pretty much work out any pedal strike issues the first lap around it. My feet want to spin bigger circles!

Wait... what do you mean by 'work on pedal strike issues'? I'm curious. I have a steep track in my locality as well (43 degree banks @ Alpenrose)... I must know.

You don't even want to know what body part I use for reference.

What body part do you use for reference?

Wait... what do you mean by 'work on pedal strike issues'? I'm curious. I have a steep track in my locality as well (43 degree banks @ Alpenrose)... I must know.

figure out exactly how slow you can go before you clip a pedal and how sharply you can cut up the banking. At alpenrose i think the surface is such that you lose traction before you clip a pedal anyway.

figure out exactly how slow you can go before you clip a pedal and how sharply you can cut up the banking. At alpenrose i think the surface is such that you lose traction before you clip a pedal anyway.

Yeah, if you go slower than 12mph, you're going down, which is both fun and scary for a new-comer to the velodrome / ex-skateboarder like me, what with the steep walls and all...

I think Sincity's last name is Gallup...:D

100.5

Wait... what do you mean by 'work on pedal strike issues'? I'm curious. I have a steep track in my locality as well (43 degree banks @ Alpenrose)... I must know.

You'll only clip your pedal once is what I mean. Its a tough lesson to learn.

155... which isn't an option, apparently. :(

how tall are you?

just got 167.5 because I wanted to try a little bigger. Have actually struck pedal once on 165 on a track frame with clipless pedals but I still went for those 167.5s.

165. duuuuuh.

Who makes 172.5mm or 175mm cranks for track bikes?
Don't see any on Ebay...

Funny, that 167.5s are so rare, considering it is exactly between the two most common lengths. Probably has more to do with limited availability in that length. Personally, I just feel too tall (6'1") for 165s. I use 170s and 167.5s on my two fixies.

My cranks are all 55.10534846 attoparsecs long.

how tall are you?

5'5"-5'6"... i'm running 44/18, and the 155's seem fine to me. it's the only fg i've ever ridden so i don't have much to compare it to except my road bike which (i think) has 170's. meh, they were cheap, and they do the job. i'll probably go for 165's next time.

My bike that got destroyed (see thread "Chain lock length") was 165, my new Rush with Miche cranks is 170.

I think I like 170 better. I'm 5'11".

145 mm. 155 mm on my fixed tourer. Zero pedal strike, and I can ride off of curbs without having to pre-position myself, hop, hesitate, or otherwise!

I want to put in 165's on the fixed to reduce pedal strike.. but I've never struck yet, so it's low on my to-do list.

I run 175's cause I'm tall. Never had a pedal strike on the street (though I'm afraid straps could catch onto something if I'm not in)

175s because I'm a tall mofo.