Bicycle Mechanics - Proper spoke tension

Too much information is a bad thing.

Got one of those Park spoke tension-meter things for Christmas. I've build wheels for years without one, but am now wonder what is the 'proper' tension. I have always managed to get them relatively even, but now I have this guage that tells me what it really is. I know it depends on rims and spoke size. I have not had much luck finding an answer in any of the usual places (Zinn's, etc.).

Thanks!

different material spokes and different types have different tensions

http://www.parktool.com/products/documents/TM_1table_2005912_4301.pdf

have fun(im sure you will(no sarcasm)), building with tension makes building wheels real intresting

Too much information is a bad thing.

Got one of those Park spoke tension-meter things for Christmas. I've build wheels for years without one, but am now wonder what is the 'proper' tension. I have always managed to get them relatively even, but now I have this guage that tells me what it really is. I know it depends on rims and spoke size. I have not had much luck finding an answer in any of the usual places (Zinn's, etc.).

Thanks! hello, i have the same tensiometer. great tool! :D

from talking to different places on the phone (DTswiss, SunRims), it seems that the rim is the primary determinant of tension. correct me if i am wrong. they made it sound like the rim is the limiting factor and so one should find out from the rim manufacturer what the recommended spoke tension should be.

many of the wheels i have built had rims spec'ed between 80 to 110 kgf.

after you know what the rim can "handle" kgf wise, then you can reference the type of spoke you have on the tensiometer deflection/conversion number chart for your park tool.

this is my basic take on it anyway. hope that helps.

I would not exceed 120. Anymore and you will start to pull the nipple through the rim. The Rim is the weakest part so that will limit your spoke tension.

Zipp recommends no more than 100 kgf on their carbon rims.

Check Sheldon Brown's site. Also, Gerd Schraner has a philosophy of high spoke tension...but again consult the rim manufacturer.

different material spokes and different types have different tensions

http://www.parktool.com/products/documents/TM_1table_2005912_4301.pdf

have fun(im sure you will(no sarcasm)), building with tension makes building wheels real intresting


So what about for butted spokes? For example, 2.0/1.8/2.0. I assume it's best to use the Park conversion table for a 1.8 spoke?

So what about for butted spokes? For example, 2.0/1.8/2.0. I assume it's best to use the Park conversion table for a 1.8 spoke?
yes, use conversion chart.

the rim is still the "weak link".

hello, i have the same tensiometer. great tool! :D

from talking to different places on the phone (DTswiss, SunRims), it seems that the rim is the primary determinant of tension. correct me if i am wrong. they made it sound like the rim is the limiting factor and so one should find out from the rim manufacturer what the recommended spoke tension should be.

many of the wheels i have built had rims spec'ed between 80 to 110 kgf.

after you know what the rim can "handle" kgf wise, then you can reference the type of spoke you have on the tensiometer deflection/conversion number chart for your park tool.

this is my basic take on it anyway. hope that helps.

+1. Bingo!

Bob

yes, use conversion chart.

the rim is still the "weak link".

Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?

Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?

Depends on the spoke. DT Competition spokes are about 1.7, Revolutions are 1.5.
Based on Park's conversion chart I've been running 157 kgf with no problems on DT 1.1 and Open Pro rims. Not sure I believe the chart conversions for butted spokes.

Al

Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?
1.8

but doesn't it specify DB spokes? at any rate, you would want the narrow part because that is what the tool "grips" on