Mountain Biking - FloodGates

hi, i did a search but had no luck. im wondering if by keeping my pike 426 in the lock mode, and setting the flood gates to mid way, if it would damage the internals if i was to use it like this all the time?

im asking this because the fork bottoms out too easily and i have tried using the compression adjusters but i cant find the point at which i want.

any help would be appreciated

that's fine. It's sort of what the floodgate is designed for.

Play around with oil volume and weight next time around.

Is it coil or spring? If it's coil, you may want to swap in a stiffer spring.

Is it coil or spring? If it's coil, you may want to swap in a stiffer spring.

<scratching head>

:D

That's the "platform" function. You can have a full-on lock out or back off the blow-by adjustment to be a pedaling platform. That's how I had my RS Pilot set up for like 5 minutes. I thought it was pretty sorry, myself. Really killed the small bump compliance.

yeah, it does kill the small bump compliance. but i want it to not bottom out when im really gunning it down a ruff track but still have travel. then unlock when im done. i was just wondering if the fork would be okay if i was to do this, or if it would ruin it.

As indicated by my earlier question/post, why don't you set up your fork properly rather than using a band-aid solution?

Is it coil or spring? If it's coil, you may want to swap in a stiffer spring.

As gastro subtly pointed out, perhap you should re-read your own advice before you get all snarky.

never's is a valid question and most certainly intended to lead the OP to the trailhead of enlightenment (the typo in his previous post notwithstanding).

Then again, my snark meter is busted.

Haha...I just actually read that again now...can you tell I'm figuring the OP has a coil fork? With an air fork, the bottoming issue should be an easy fix with air pressure.

My point is if you spend money on a fork, why would you sacrifice its performance by not having it set up properly and using another fork function to mask the problem? To the OP...go buy a stiffer spring and set up the fork properly.

Haha...I just actually read that again now...can you tell I'm figuring the OP has a coil fork? With an air fork, the bottoming issue should be an easy fix with air pressure.

My point is if you spend money on a fork, why would you sacrifice its performance by not having it set up properly and using another fork function to mask the problem? To the OP...go buy a stiffer spring and set up the fork properly.

That's a great option, if the next spring weight up isn't too stiff. If it is too stiff, then the OP is back to square one; using more compression damping.

The one downside to the coil Pike line, IMO, is not being able to fine tune things with oil heights and weights as much as other forks, or preload the spring a bit more.

The thing that confuses me about your intention is that setting the floodgate low and locking it will not effect the bottom out resistance. (in my experience) When the forks damper becomes active (blows by)...it's just as likely to bottom out. The Floodgate is for low speed compression, not G-outs. The initial resistance is all that's inhibited for pedal bob resistance. When you hit a bump at speed, it will blow past and "get into the travel".

What OP is suggesting is completely backward to the intended application. You're supposed to leave it wide open during those descents and then kick it over to Floodgate/lock mode when doing the straights and climbs for more efficiency. If you're bottoming out excessively, you need a heavier spring or more high speed compression.

The thing that confuses me about your intention is that setting the floodgate low and locking it will not effect the bottom out resistance. (in my experience) When the forks damper becomes active (blows by)...it's just as likely to bottom out. The Floodgate is for low speed compression, not G-outs. The initial resistance is all that's inhibited for pedal bob resistance. When you hit a bump at speed, it will blow past and "get into the travel".

What OP is suggesting is completely backward to the intended application. You're supposed to leave it wide open during those descents and then kick it over to Floodgate/lock mode when doing the straights and climbs for more efficiency. If you're bottoming out excessively, you need a heavier spring or more high speed compression.


I agree, but read my post again. I said the OP may be stuck with using the MoCo damper/Floodgate if the next spring weight up is too stiff... Not to just use it. Lastly, if the OP just can't get the fork to feel right for him, then a fork from another company may be the fix.

This is where the newer Mission control has a much better setup over Motion. Independant low and high speed comression damping.

For bottom out resistance, you could always add a bit of oil to the coil side. RS doesn't reccomend/suggest/endorse this at all. Others have also popped more heat shrink tubing or a length of inner tube (obviously you have to find a tight fit) around the coil stack.
There are possible ways to add a bit of preload to the coil stack, but they also are not suggested/warrantee voiding types of things.

I speculate that next years Pike line will probably swap to the newer damping guts.

My 05 Pike Team needed the next spring weight up, and it feels perfect. My Lyrik felt great right out of the box, stock spring and all.

Agree'd. I was more or less responding to his second post, not yours.

I'm not a fan of Mickey Mouse when it comes to putting my bike together either.