Mountain Biking - Chain Advice
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05-29-03, 06:34 PM
I have a Shimano CN-HG53 chain and want to remove it for cleaning.
Do I need to simply buy a chain tool and push out one of the pins to remove and then push it back in to replace or do I need to replace with a new pin?
There appears to be one link that looks different. It has a flat single pin in it. Is this the one I should be working with or is this one that has simply been grinded down?
IS there a type of link that I can buy to put in my chain to facilitate easier frequent removals?
05-29-03, 06:40 PM
Shimano chains use a special hardened replacement pin, boyfriend. You'll need to get one of those pins. Drive out any pin except the flattened one. That one is already a replacement pin. After you clean the chain, put it back on. Drive the new pin into place until it clicks. Break off the excess with a pair of pliers.
There are other brands of chain, like SRAM, that use a masterlink. If, like me, you prefer to remove your chain for cleaning, get a SRAM chain. I've seen aftermarket master links, too, but can't think of the name just now.
By the way, welcome to the forums. Gimme a smooch!
I'd say option C:
Remove that piece of crap Shimano chain, and buy a SRAM!
Yea Jims idea isnt bad, the SRAM chains have a powerlink which makes taking off the chain a sinch. The SRAM chains are also relativley cheap.
05-29-03, 07:19 PM
ok, you've talked me into buying an SRAM. I'm assuming I need the PC 59 because I have a 9-speed rear cog. Are they all the same length? Will I need a tool to shorten the chain if its to long?
05-29-03, 07:38 PM
There are several companies that make quick links that will work with your chain. Any shop shouldhave them.
A Shimano chain is not a piece of crap, nor is a Sram the greatest thing ever built. Usually, the percieved quality of a chain is directly related to the installation skills of the person that put it on.
05-29-03, 07:43 PM
Use your chain until it wears out, (measure it with a 12" ruler, 12 links should be exactly 12 inches). Dont listen to people who tell you something is crap if you havent had any problems. Shimano chains are good. The chain dosent need to be taken off to clean it. Run it through a rag multiple times until it appears clean and then apply a lube, pedal the chain around a few times, and then wipe again so it wont make a mess. You should buy a chain tool anyway, a small one like a park CT-5 that you can carry on every bike trip. You can always buy a quick link too to carry with you on rides.
-So you could either spend no money and do what I said
-Spend 12 bucks or so on a chain tool which guarantees that you can fix your chain wherever you ride.
-Spend around 12 bucks on a new SRAM chain with a quicklink (the quicklink wont help if your chain breaks because you will need another one to put where the break occurs) but it will let you take your chain off to clean which isnt really neccessary.
-Spend 12 on a chain tool, and around 5 for a quicklink, do what I said for cleaning and lubing, have the link ready if your chain does break, and have the chain tool for fixing your chain whenever.
In other words I have no idea what I am trying to say, but I hope most of it makes sense.
This is the tool I have:
05-29-03, 07:53 PM
totaletech, Whipperman make master links, I just bought one,I'm sick and tired of paying for a replacement pin each time I do a real cleaning on my chain.
I've used SRAM chains in the past and liked their powerlink its real convenient when you want do do a deep cleansing on your chain.
05-29-03, 07:55 PM
The old rag and brush just doesnt seem to go a good enough job for cleaning to me, maybe I'm doing it wrong or something. Where we ride is really sandy, and simply scrubbing it for hours on end nevers seems to get all the sand out. Soaking it to me would seem so much better.
Sounds like regardless of what chain I use I need a chain tool so I think I will start by getting one of those and hopefully a quicklink for my chain I have now.
Thanks for all the great advice.
I'm surprised no one said this ... You can use those cleaning kits with the box deal (forget what they're called :confused: ). Those are very good at cleaning the chain without having to take it off. I agree with KleinMp99 about the chain tool, just get the CT-5 and take it with you, coz you might need it on a ride if your chain breaks. I own a Shimano IG90 and it doesn't come with a Powerlink deal like the SRAM chains do. I haven't had a problem with it (unlike my friend's SRAM chain which broke twice in the last month) ... maybe coz it's fairly new (3 months old). Funny thing is, my CT-5 saved our butts from having to walk back. :p
Originally posted by Rev.Chuck
Usually, the percieved quality of a chain is directly related to the installation skills of the person that put it on.
I think this is what you need to keep in mind more than anything. A poorly installed <invincible brand> chain will will always fail long before a properly installed stock / generic chain. I agree with Klein. Taking your chain off to clean it is just asking for trouble. Every time a chain is taken apart you increase the future risk. If you're really picky about keeping your chain clean you should buy a chain cleaning kit. Park (http://www.parktool.com/tools/CG_2.shtml) makes a great one.
Certainly true about the installation of the chain. It's really preference. But the Powerlink is conveinient, and I've had several SRAM chains in the past and had nothing but good luck. The only chains I've broken were Shimanos.
And ask my buddy 3 weeks ago when he finished dead last what he thought of Shimano's chains.. he broke 2 in 2 days (and both were installed properly, I assure you)
05-30-03, 07:22 AM
I haven't had any more/less success with Shimano vs. Sram. I think they both make fine products. However, the Sram PowerLink is one of the easiest to use and best designed master links on the market.
You can buy a Sram chain and have one included, or you can keep your Shimano chain and buy "JUST" the Power Link. (That's what I do). In addition, I bought a spare and keep it in my Camelback for on-trail repairs along with a chain tool and a couple extra links.
To me, spending an extra $5 for a spare link makes a heck of a lot more sense than having to hike out 15 miles out ( or the further point) from the trailhead where invariable all problems occur.
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