Classic & Vintage - Re-covering an 80's leather (over plastic) saddle

Hey -- does anyone have any clues on how to re-cover an 80's saddle or how obtain the leather? I read an old post about looking for leather couches on trash day. That could be fine with me -- but what kind of glue should I use? Perhaps I will take it to the local cobbler....

I'm looking to recover a saddle as well

My plans as of right now are to purchase vinyl and thin foam and stretch it over the saddle and staple. Also going to drill out the original rivets and replace with new ones. Harbor Freight sells a hand riveter for cheap


edit: And for glue, I use 3M upholstery spray glue. Auto stores carry it. I've done car headliners with it and its good stuff

I've used this guy http://members.aol.com/mudmash/rss.html

Try asking at a motorcycle shop or a tack shop, around me there are more of those than cobblers.

I was going to suggest hide glue, if you were just going to experiment. Seems like it would work well, being part of the beast to begin with, and it is removable if you screw up. I know absolutely nothing about leather work or hide glue, just so you know. I would probably spend the bucks on a new anatomical saddle, no matter what I rode, if I needed a new saddle(doesn't apply for 'comfort seats').

They are made that way for a good reason.

hide glue is made FROM hide (and sometimes hooves and bones) not made FOR hide. It's for wood. Your cobbler and/or upholsterer will use something like Barge or Pliobond contact cement...and the only time you need to use a spray like Super(superTOXIC)77 is when you need to cover a large area, like an auto headliner. You won't be (or shouldn't be) applying that much glue to a bike saddle...you can brush a strip of cement on the saddle's bottom edge with a brush.

thanks for the replies, will go leather hunting tomorrow, in the streets...

good hunting...but a couple more thots: leather used for a sofa *might* be heavier than you'd want for a saddle covering...try to find thin-leather sofa. Hides have a "grain" that is: they stretch more in one direction than another and you'll want to determine that and cut the new leather to maximize that stretch in your favor. Use your old covering as a pattern for the new, but note how the old has been pulled/stretched to take on its final shape and cut accordingly; always cut oversize, you'll trim excess off later; get a bunch of spring clamps, you'll need them. When you upholster anything it helps to have good hand and finger strength.

hide glue is made FROM hide (and sometimes hooves and bones) not made FOR hide. It's for wood. Your cobbler and/or upholsterer will use something like Barge or Pliobond contact cement...and the only time you need to use a spray like Super(superTOXIC)77 is when you need to cover a large area, like an auto headliner. You won't be (or shouldn't be) applying that much glue to a bike saddle...you can brush a strip of cement on the saddle's bottom edge with a brush. Actually, hide glue works just fine for leather, as well as wood. I think it's in the molecules. Stretching the leather and clamping is VERY important. You don't want wrinkles on your saddle!

The more I think about it, the more inclined I would be to buy a nice, new saddle.

What model saddle are you thinking about restoring?

hide glue for leather to *plastic*? I've never tried, but I don't think I will. I have used it on wood and for certain jobs it's indespensible, not very user-friendly though, hot-pot and all that.

hide glue for leather to *plastic*? I've never tried, but I don't think I will. I have used it on wood and for certain jobs it's indespensible, not very user-friendly though, hot-pot and all that.
Agreed. Like I said, buy a new saddle.

I was involved in that old thread about recovering a saddle with leather from an old couch. I covered a couple of old plastic saddles with that green couch leather using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. The second one came out pretty good. I think the third one would have been great, but I ran out of leather. The saddles had a base and a shell that was covered with plastic over a thin layer of foam. I took the base off, covered the saddle, trimmed the edges and glued them down. The base covered the edges of the leather when I put it back on.

It was an interesting experiment, but I'm a Brooks man. I threw both saddles away.

I have covered a few plastic base saddles with leather, one had originally been stretch fabric, remember some of the later 80's Vettas? Anyway, 3M trim adhesive will work as will contact cement, use a brush such as a disposable acid brush, if you examine most leather over plastic saddles, you will see that there is a dart at the nose, if you can sew a dart it will make the job much easier. Regarding leather, in the small quantity that is needed for a saddle, not cheap, I would check with an upholstery shop that works with leather and furniture, automotive leather is thicker most of the time and for your 2nd or 3rd try.

Be wary of the leather covered "gel" saddles, the chemestry of the gel often is not durable with the materials that were used with it, sometimes no problem, other times upon removal of the original cover it is time to toss. Sand the plastic region to be bonded.

I would not cover a saddle with vinyl, without heat the vinyl will have a powerful memory and wil pull away in a short time, it can be done, but you will need heat to distort it to shape.

I have found the best way is to keep the saddle attached to a seat post, adjust the post perpindicular to the saddle, and with wood blocks mount it to a bench vise, then you have something to work against...much easier. work nose to tail to set, then work center sides, alternating to the extremes.

If you are tempted by suede, keep in mind it will compress away in no time.

Agreed. Like I said, buy a new saddle.

Oh, what fun is that? I've recovered a couple saddles; they came out okay. I used a 3M spray adhesive that's meant for vinyl tops and such. Thin leather's a must if you don't want a bunch of wrinkles around the nose of the saddle. My brother-in-law's an automotive upholsterer, so I've got a good source for appropriate leather scraps and foam. I've also accumulated a box full of otherwise decent saddles that have the shoulders torn, and assorted other cosmetic damage, so recovering them makes good sense.

I have recovered saddles on bikes that were sold on CL but I have used lycra bought at the fabric store. It's easy to stretch and glues up nice. As for leather, I still have the green leather that dirtdrop mentioned and it is certainly thin enough to use for a saddle, although I have not attempted it yet. Mainly due to not having a need for a forest green leather saddle. When I do, I think my approach will be to stretch it as tight as possible, work slowly and use plenty of contact cement and spring clamps.

I finally located a nice thin piece of green leather - - $12.00 at a fabric shop. I will gather as many clamps as I can and some adhesive.. and get to work on it. The saddle I am saving is a titanium railed Avocet O2 Air 40R. I have one on each of my two most used bikes..I am a fan. Isn't hide glue water soluable when dry? I know Rabbit skin glue is. I will use a product by 3M called Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #08001 if I cannot locate the Pliobond mentioned above. I have some of that here about at the house and have used it with much successes on my old car interior..


{Sorry this is such an ancient post... but my projects are many and continue... I will post pictures before and after..**