Classic & Vintage - dismantling an "English" 3 speed

Bikeforums.net is a forum about nothing but bikes. Our community can help you find information about hard-to-find and localized information like bicycle tours, specialties like where in your area to have your recumbent bike serviced, or what are the best bicycle tires and seats for the activities you use your bike for.




View Full Version : dismantling an "English" 3 speed


BroMax
04-28-07, 11:48 AM
I have a parts bike for my Raleigh Sports. (The parts bike is actually a "built for Raleigh" so nobody can cry "desecration".) I want to remove everything that could be of use and give the frame to a worthy recipient.

I've read that a spanner and a screwdriver are all the tools needed to work on one of these but I'm a skeptic. Could it be true? If not, what else is necessary?

Mechanically, I'm not inept but I am inexperienced with bikes. How do I strip the bike in a way that stuff is available for future use? The bike runs OK but it's rather rusty, too small for me, a "girls" frame, and not a proper "Made in England" Raleigh, so I can do the job without regret. It's also safer than going right at my rider--like a student surgeon practising on a corpse. The only visible difference is the fork, which has a more conventional appearance than the distinctive Raleigh lockable fork.

Let the flow of knowledge (and maybe some arguments and off topic stuff, too) begin.


FlatTop
04-28-07, 02:33 PM
Perhaps a shot or two of penetrant, such as PB Blaster, Kroil or CRC, applied to pedals, cotters, handlebar clamp, headset, seat clamp, seatpost clamp, bottom bracket ring and really every nut and bolt. This done the night before would have a great deal of benefit in ease of disassembly.

The pedal on the left side of the bike will be lefthand threaded. That side of the bottom bracket may be as well.

The cotters, which hold the crankarms, are sometimes tough to remove on a rusty bike, but I've had good luck by backing off the small nut until flush with the ends of the cotter threads and tapping with a small hammer. If this has no effect, I employ a device with a C-clamp and appropriately sized sockets as a makeshift press. Replacement cotters can be ordered, all this rigamarole is only necessary to preserve the ones on the bike.

I would save every bolt, clip and screw, you simply never know what might be needed. Keeping the attaching hardware with the assembly is preferable to bagging everything individually, ie. put the washers and antirotation washers onto the rear axle hub and then screw on the nuts, keeping the assembly together. Put the shifter, cable, all cable clamps and the indicator from the center of the hub all in one ziploc bag. You won't regret it.

thebikeguy
04-29-07, 01:33 PM
I think you should leave the bike together until you need the part(s). It actually takes up less space to leave it whole than to strew it out in boxes and bags. Besides, I don't think anyone would want the frame. You're taking all the good stuff. The best rust buster (IMHO) is Dextron II transmission fluid(for automobiles). It doesn't evaporate. The longer it sits the better. Put the trans fluid on all the nuts and bolts now and when it comes time to remove them they will come right off.