Fifty Plus (50+) - Presta-Valved Tire Tubes for Club Rides

For the Shimano 7801-SL wheel, I've narrowed my tire choice to Michelin's Pro2 Race. The attached chart shows this tire got good ratings as far as weight, puncture resistance, and rolling resistance:
< http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html >

I thought selection of tubes for this tire (or any tire) would be a no-brainer, but there are choices to be made. But at least I know I want the Presta valve.

I never knew the tube weights could fluctuate so much, from 75 to 175 grams. I first assumed that to make it simple, I should just get a Michelin tube for the Michelin Pro2 Race. But Performance Bike only sells one Michelin tube, and as far as I can tell, it's the only tire tube that Michelin makes. Is this correct?
< http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=2784&subcategory_ID=5411 >

I don't know if it matters, but the Michelin tube that Performance bike sells is "for aero rims". As far as I can tell, the Shimano 7801-SL is not an aero rim. So is it redundant to get a long valve stem for this wheel?

For the 7801-SL wheels and the Pro2 Race tires ... and for club rides:
1. Does it matter on the length of the presta valve stem?
2. Does it matter if the valve stem is threaded or not?
3. What are recommended tire tubes to consider?

The long stems are for deep-dish areo rims. You can use them on other rims, as I have, but with increased risk of either breaking the stem or pulling it out of the tube itself, because of the increased leverage.

Tubes aren't nearly as complicated as you're making them. I have bikes with tire sizes from 700x23 to 700x40, and for the sake of simplicity, I buy one size tube: 700x25 or as close to it as the store has in stock. I've never had a problem--they just stretch to fit the fatter tires. Same with mountain bikes: from 26x1.4 on my commuter to 26x2.2, everything gets 1.5-1.9 inch tubes, whatever's in stock or on sale. It's just not an issue. Nor is there any reason to match brands of tubes with tires. Years ago, cyclists used to say about tubes, "they all suck, but German ones suck least." I buy Continentals when I can, but that's probably not more than 20 percent of the time.
As the other post said, long stems are for aero rims, which are deeper in cross section. You CAN use them with any rims, but I've seen experienced cyclists break them off trying to inflate them--lots of leverage there.
Most riders I know don't bother threading on the little nut or the cap that come with prestas, and I never have.

The attached chart shows this tire got good ratings as far as weight, puncture resistance, and rolling resistance

What are the practical impacts of factors like tire rolling resistance and weight? For example, how many seconds might a low rr/weight tire knock off one's 10k time trial?

For the 7801-SL wheels and the Pro2 Race tires ... and for club rides:
1. Does it matter on the length of the presta valve stem?
2. Does it matter if the valve stem is threaded or not?
3. What are recommended tire tubes to consider?

I prefer the shorter valve stems but any will do assuming they are long enough to extend through the rim and leave you clearance for the air pump nozzle.

It doesn't matter. I like the smooth valve stems as they are easier to get off after inflating a tire-the nozzle seems to stick more on the threaded stems which might mean I'm pulling harder to get it off-which could lead to premature tearing of the valve stem on the tube. On the other hand, I have seen where the nozzle holds on tighter to the threaded valve stems on higher pressures -130lbs and up-so they are easier to inflate.

Depends on the type of riding and roads you do. I can get by with using the lighter weight, thinner walled tubes as I don't have as much an issue with road debris as some people do.

I don’t buy the super light racing tubes. I buy the cheapest tubes for my tires and wheels (long value, short value, threaded, unthreaded) the store has and never have any more or less problems than my peers. The tire is another story.

I don’t buy the super light racing tubes. I buy the cheapest tubes for my tires and wheels (long value, short value, threaded, unthreaded) the store has and never have any more or less problems than my peers. The tire is another story.

Always been the same on the MTB's and carrying on with the road bike.

I buy a Name that I recognise Tube. Michelin or schwalbe seem to be my favourites at present. Not a lightweight tube but I do not need those. However- Many moons ago I got hold of some heavyweight Latex tubes for the Tandem. They were lighter than the ordinary butyl but Lightweight latex is light. Lightweight tubes don't last with me at all. But these heavy latex for the Tandem had a distinct benefit. You get the in and Out thorns that plague me and with a Butyl the tyre went down quick. With the latex- they semi-seal against the hole and it is if I just have a slow puncture. Can normally get about 10 miles before it goes flat on me so a couple of pumps and I do not have to change tubes on the trail. In the case of a big puncture- they still go down slower than normal. One memorable occasion I got a Snakebite on a rough trail and we had enough time to stop before the tyre went down. It continued hissing for another 30 seconds.

I prefer the shorter valve stems but any will do assuming they are long enough to extend through the rim and leave you clearance for the air pump nozzle.

It doesn't matter. I like the smooth valve stems as they are easier to get off after inflating a tire-the nozzle seems to stick more on the threaded stems which might mean I'm pulling harder to get it off-which could lead to premature tearing of the valve stem on the tube.
Agree on smooth stems. I've also had issues on the valve tip breaking off when I remove the nozzle on threaded stems, not at the tube, but the small screw.:eek: The tube doesn't deflate and holds pressure, but you'll be changing the tube before your NEXT ride:mad:

I have deep V rims so I need long stem tubes. Around here you really can only get Specialized or Continental tubes at the LBS and they are cheap enough that it is not worth getting them online. I usually get 700x18/23 since I ride 23 tires, both tend to come with threaded presta valves. I like the continentals better they seem to resist flats better (might be my imagination) and I have less problems getting the pump to seal on the valve that the Specialized (not my imagination). Seems with those I alway get air leaking and I have to reseat the pump head 2-3 times to get up to pressure.

I buy the Performance house brand. They're not the lightest but they're durable and almost alway on sale.