Road Cycling - First impressions of first road bike tests

Here's what I rode:
1) 2003 Trek 1200
2) 2002 Trek 2000
3) 2003 Klein Q Carbon

Having always ridden a mt. bike, I was expecting the difference in shifting/ride to be substantially better. Honestly, I was rather disappointed in the two Trek bikes. I would have to say that I am not sure I want to spend close to $1000 for either of them as I just didn't see that much of an improvement over what I have now. I was expecting the 105s to shift like butter and really didn't see that much of a difference over the Tiagras.

On the other hand, The Klein Carbon's ride was better but of course was almost $400 more than the other two.

Thus, at this point, I am not seeing an overwhelming reason to run out and purchase a road bike. I am sure that most of you will say it is because I am looking at the bottem level of the road bike lines. Unfortunately, the ride just doesn't feel $1000 better than what I have now on my mt. bike. I will say one thing (minor, probably) riding hands free was easy on the road bike. I wouldn't even dare this on my mt. bike. On the other hand, the road vibration was incredible on the two Treks.

Another thing I noticed is the brake levers. I was testing Shimano Tiagras/105s. I found that if I kept my hands resting on the hoods I could shift easily, but had little leverage to brake efficiently. To brake efficiently, I would have to move my hands down off of the hoods. Is this normal or do I have petite hands? (Mind you I am 6'0")

I haven't given up yet though. I still want to try some steel bikes and hope to do so tomorrow.

Any comments/suggestions? TIA

Well, I suppose it does depend on what you're looking for. The advantages of road bikes over mountain bikes have more to do with speed and comfort/efficiency over long distances than with convenience or any sort of inherent mechanical superiority. Their reduced weight is also a distinct advantage if you want to keep your speed up when climbing.

As for braking, it's my experience that most road bikes in shops have the bars set too low and the levers too low on the bars so, yes, you'd have to be in the drops to have maximum advantage. That's one reason working with a shop that's experienced at fitting a variety of riders with a wide range of preferences is so important.

The brakes aren't always adjusted particularly well, either. But it's also true that the v-brakes on a MTB are pretty easy to set up to be immensely powerful, and the brake levers are easier to operate.

I'd also suggest you look at some steel frame bikes, like LeMond or Bianchi or some Fujis. You might find the ride quality to be a little more to your liking (but still nothing like a big heavy MTB with shocks and fat, soft tires).

RichC

In are riding group we sometimes have a new guy show up on a mountain bike and they learn very fast that they don't have a chance on keeping up with us road bike riders. However, we are good sports and stop a lot to let them catch back up.:D

I have no doubts that Road Bikes are better than mt. bikes for road riding. However, $1000 or more better? That's what I am not sure about yet. I still need to try a few more bikes before I make my final decision.

I've found that on my bike (Specialized Allez Sport) the shifting got smoother after a little bit of riding, and now the Tiagra/105 mix is like butter. :D I remember that the shifting felt stiff and somewhat imprecise on my first ride, but it's no problem now.

There can also be issues riding a bike off the shop floor. For some reason people like to "test" the bike by shifting it as hard as they can while it is resting in the stand, does not do much for shift quality. They do get better after a short break in.
As far as speed, I am no that quick but I can average 18 plus on a hilly solo road ride, if you can do that on your MTB then maybe you don't need the road bike. Better swap the knobbies before you lean it over hard in a turn.
A thousand better? Are the MTB's you look at free?
Try a TCR 2, $1400 with carbon seat post and fork, full 105, and under 18 pounds.

hsjb,

Go for the road bike. You won't regret it. Lot's of great climbs and fun descents for us roadies.

SteveE

Rev. Chuck, I was referring to the fact that I've already got a mt. bike that performs adequately for me. I wanted to see if a $1000 road bike would be substantially better. The two Trek bikes definietly do not seem, to me, to be enough an improvement worth spending $1000. I am hoping in my further search that $1300-$1400 bikes are significantly better.

Mr. hsjb.........sorry to hear that your initial road bike test was not a positive one. I think you were disappointed in the ride quality more than anything else. I sensed that you were unaccustomed to the ride position of road bikes as well. This is understandable. Occasionally, when I take my mountain bike out to ride, it feels like riding a Cadillac......nice & comfy......as opposed to my road bikes which ride & handle like Formula 1's.
The road vibration you felt was most likely coming from Trek's aluminum frame. Steel frames are much more foregiving but you may not feel the difference in short test rides.......but ride 100 miles on steel vs aluminum....that's a different story. Good luck.

Originally posted by Grendel
I've found that on my bike (Specialized Allez Sport) the shifting got smoother after a little bit of riding, and now the Tiagra/105 mix is like butter. :D I remember that the shifting felt stiff and somewhat imprecise on my first ride, but it's no problem now.

Same here. I was kind of suprised with the first few rides on my Felt with 105, loud, hard shifts. Well after 800 miles smooth as silk. Sometimes I think it didn't shift; it is now so quiet.

Why dont you just put some less aggressive tires on the Mt. bike. If you like the way it rides, make it better for what you need.

Thanks for the comments/suggestions everyone. I am not giving up yet. I want to try some steel bikes. I am also curious to see what broken in shiftings seem like. The ones on these bikes were very rough and loud.

Not to minimize your observations, but I don't think anyone can tell much from a test ride. As for road vs. MTB, there is no comparison. Like others said, the purpose of the road bike is for fast, efficient, long distance riding. The handling effect of a road bike is totally different from a MTB. Be in AL, Ti, steel, carbon, whatever. Maybe look more at conditions you'll be riding in and consider putting some slicks or semislicks on that MTB if you want to ride more efficiently on pavement. You will have more upright seating, if that's what you like.

hsjb,

Don't buy a crappy road bike. The "buy cheap, but twice" philosophy fits cycling to a tee. I have a $2200 mtb. My road bike cost $3400. I can promise you that my mtb feels like a truck after riding my road bike. There is a HUGE difference in ride quality between the two. But, I mean that in the sense that each one has its purpose. BTW, there's also a reason that one road bike costs $800 while another $2500. But, you already know this...you own an Audi and not a Hyundi. ;)

Steve

My personal feeling is generally that MTBs and hybrids feel better than road bikes, until you have been on them for about 30 to 40 minutes. A short ride comparing any new bike to one that has been your friend for a while just won't really tell you much. Now if you rode your old bike for about an hour and then tested the various roadies, you might have a better "feel" for it.

hsjb, I think we could use a little more information. How often do you ride on the road and how many miles do you ride at a time? If you want to ride 15 miles 3 days a week then I'd say it really doesn't matter what kind of bike you have, just as long as it is fitting your needs. On the other hand, if you are looking at riding 30+ miles with longer 60+ mile rides on the weekends that makes a big difference.

(in terms of road riding...)
MTB: more rolling resistance, less cornering ability, heavier, geared for the trail with around a 44-tooth chainring, upright riding position which transmits road shock through the spine, much less aerodynamic.

ROAD: the right bike should fit you like a glove, climbing is much easier due to lower weight of not only the frame but also the wheels, a 53-tooth chainring for more speed on the flats and better control on descents, better traction on the road, far better aerodynamics, a riding position that protects the back on long rides by evening out your weight distribution.

It has already been said, but a $1000 bike is not a $3000 bike. You are comparing your mtb with the bottom of the barrel road bikes. Those bikes serve a purpose so I don't want to say anything bad about them, but they aren't going to feel or perform like a more expensive bike most of the time. If you've tried 3 bikes, you've got about 15 more to go and you said you weren't giving up. Keep at it, make sure you're getting the right service at your bike shops and take into consideration what it is you really need. If you wanna hang with the local roadie club on weekend rides you're probably going to be out of luck on a mtb, but if you just want to solo for shorter distances after work maybe you shouldn't throw down big bones for a road bike.

Originally posted by multisport4life

It has already been said, but a $1000 bike is not a $3000 bike. You are comparing your mtb with the bottom of the barrel road bikes.

I don't think a $1k road bike is anywhere near the bottom of the barrel. Indeed, once you have (for example) an 853 cromo frame, a decent carbon fork, 105 group, and some reliable hand-built (or at least hand-tensioned) wheels, you have 90% of what you'll ever get from a road bike. And you can get that for $1000 (not from Trek, but you can get it).

Professionals, dedicated racers, and real afficionados may benefit from the other 10%, but it's not worth the price to most people.

I'm not disparaging spending more. I have a $2000 bike myself. But my Fuji, which was well under $1k, is a joy to ride and while I can of course tell the difference between it and a high-end bike, it's not a fundamental difference, but rather just one of degree.

I certainly agree that more riding is in order for hsjb, but he doesn't have to look at pricier bikes. Just ones that are set up and adjusted properly. And perhaps from manufacturers who don't charge quite so much for the decals.

RichC

Mountain bikes are designed to absorb bumps and have traction on dirt etc. They are upright with wide handlebars for good control in tough riding conditions. After about twenty miles or so (depending on the person.bike,fitness etc.) they are uncomfortable and tiring to pedal.
Road bikes are designed for speed and efficency on the pavement.They are much easier to pedal a long way,they are faster,and take less work,However this is not always something the rider can feel,especially on a short test ride.Some people never feel it.But it's true even if you can't sense it.
You many not notice that you get only 1 mph faster than the other bike in some conditions.But ride next to someone for an hour and you are one mile ahead.That's 1/8 mile ahead in about
seven and a half minutes.THEN you notice it.The effort that moves me at 10 mph on one of my mountain bikes moves me at
about 13-14 mph on my fastest road bike.OR 3 miles ahead in an hour. WOW !

Road bikes are more bumpy than mountain bikes.The shifters are different and the position takes a little getting used to.The ride differences in frame materials is subtle too.It might be hard to tell on a short test ride.Some poeple have a hard time sensing that too.Some people notice it right away.

The shifters
on mountain bikes are made to be easy to shift when dirty and under tough riding conditions. Like a bumpy singletrack.The road
bike components are made to be lighter.The drop bars on a road bike will give you more postions than a Mt. bike.This is more comfortable on a long ride and faster.Again,hard to tell sometimes.

I'm in the same boat as you.I'm a mt biker that started riding my mt bike on roads some.then i picked up a used c'dale road bike.I didn't want to spend a bunch of $$ on a road bike i wouldn't use,because i used to really dislike road riding.Well i just ordered a gunnar road frame(steel!) that i'll be building up.Anyway what i'm trying to say is why not buy used for now. It will get you used to the riding postion and maybe give you and idea of what you might want later.