paxtonm
05-06-07, 08:25 PM
Simple but dumb question: Racks and fenders in the same dropout eyelet with longer allen screws? Lock washer between the two? Thanks in advance.
Touring - Racks/fenders single eyelets
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DevLaVaca
05-06-07, 09:08 PM
Simple answers: Yep. Probably not necessary.
Remember the fenders go on the inside.
Remember the fenders go on the inside.
cyccommute
05-06-07, 10:04 PM
Simple answers: Yep. Probably not necessary.
Remember the fenders go on the inside.
Longer screws, no lock washer, a flat washer on the screw...and fenders on the outside of the rack. You want the rack as rigid as you can get so you don't want the fender on the inside...in my opinion.
Remember the fenders go on the inside.
Longer screws, no lock washer, a flat washer on the screw...and fenders on the outside of the rack. You want the rack as rigid as you can get so you don't want the fender on the inside...in my opinion.
DevLaVaca
05-06-07, 10:20 PM
I agree, that would be ideal, but a)fenders are narrower than the rack; and b)fenders outside the rack interfere with panniers, and at best you'll end up with bent fender stays. I agree that the rack inside would be stronger, but it doesn't seem to be a significant difference. If you have a rack failure, it's not going to be at the eyelet (barring rust or defects), even with a longer bolt.
NoReg
05-07-07, 11:56 AM
You don't need a lock washer, and placing it between the two struts would do nothing for you since neither piece is rotating. A lock washer goes between a fixed and rotating (bolt) element. The normal kind with the little steel spurs is a like a reamer when you undo it, given that rack components may be aluminum, I prefer blue locktite. It works well and is removable easily. Be sure that when you source a longer bolt that it is a good grade bolt. Normally blue cap screws are a good grade, and they don't seem to rust up all that quickly. A little wax on exposed bits, or oil may help.
When it comes to which piece to sandwich over which piece, it depends on the structure. You want the rack as close to the eyelet as possible since it's the heavy one. In some cases the back of the rack may be flush while the front is not, and the only place you can get the fender is between the rack and the eyelet, but this is not the best situation. Either way I like a really strong tab on the end of the fender struts, and so I weld or braze some flat stock onto there. In the ideal, the front rack will have an eyelet to which to attach a fender strut, or will support the fender directly, and you won't have to attach the fender to the fork eyelet at all.
When it comes to which piece to sandwich over which piece, it depends on the structure. You want the rack as close to the eyelet as possible since it's the heavy one. In some cases the back of the rack may be flush while the front is not, and the only place you can get the fender is between the rack and the eyelet, but this is not the best situation. Either way I like a really strong tab on the end of the fender struts, and so I weld or braze some flat stock onto there. In the ideal, the front rack will have an eyelet to which to attach a fender strut, or will support the fender directly, and you won't have to attach the fender to the fork eyelet at all.
bccycleguy
05-07-07, 12:35 PM
I've mounted both rack and fender on one eyelet for years without any problems.
Another method that I've tried is to insert a screw from the inside and use a nut on the outside. The screw head has to be ground almost flat so there isn't a clearance issue on the cassette side. This is stronger and puts a bit less stress on the threads in the fender mount hole. Finish off with blue locktite.
I often put a thin, flat nylon washer between the rack (always put the heaviest item closest to the frame) and the bike frame to protect the paint on the frame. The fender stays are easily bent to stay out of the way, that's why they are made out of rod stock.
Another method that I've tried is to insert a screw from the inside and use a nut on the outside. The screw head has to be ground almost flat so there isn't a clearance issue on the cassette side. This is stronger and puts a bit less stress on the threads in the fender mount hole. Finish off with blue locktite.
I often put a thin, flat nylon washer between the rack (always put the heaviest item closest to the frame) and the bike frame to protect the paint on the frame. The fender stays are easily bent to stay out of the way, that's why they are made out of rod stock.