Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - 400 Pound Guy Seeks Real Info

I am a 24 year old male from the London Ontario Area. I went from being first bike in the Terry Fox Run to the guy who got lazy now I am paying for it. I weight 400 pounds now. I am finding it hard to find information/bikes for bigger people. The problem i have had in the past is rims. They all seem to bend or go off center as the local shop said. I have tried steel rims and need to know if there are options out there for both rims and bikes. Any info will be awsome as i really would love to get into cycling again as i was before. This bike will do street riding and some small trails. Please Help
Brandon

I am a 24 year old male from the London Ontario Area. I went from being first bike in the Terry Fox Run to the guy who got lazy now I am paying for it. I weight 400 pounds now. I am finding it hard to find information/bikes for bigger people. The problem i have had in the past is rims. They all seem to bend or go off center as the local shop said. I have tried steel rims and need to know if there are options out there for both rims and bikes. Any info will be awsome as i really would love to get into cycling again as i was before. This bike will do street riding and some small trails. Please Help
Brandon
High spoke count.

At 400 pounds, I'd suggest a 48 spoke hand built wheel, frankly. I know it's expensive, but you can get a lot more use out of them.

Peter White (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/) has 48 spoke hubs available as well as rims. You might also consider wheels from a tandem bike, as they will have very high spoke counts as well.

I'd also look at double butted spokes, while I was at it.

I am 375 oops 360 and I did what Storm said. I have been assured by many that a 48 spoke wheel profesionally built. Many builders will warrent their work if they build it for you.

Well, I'm right there with you. And here's what I know, I bought a 2007 Specialized Hardrock Sport last summer when I was at 420lbs. I just blew past the 800 mile mark on it today, and am down to 392 today (up from my lowest of 380). It's definitely hefty, but two years ago I was tipping the scales (literally!) at 567.

What problems have I had with the 'rock? 0. Zilch. Nada. None. It's heavy. HEAVY. But the thing is a tank. Today I rode the tar out of it on some pretty rough sidewalks. It just keeps asking for more. Before that I rode a '90s steel Raleigh MTB with 32 spoke wheels. I put over 500 miles on it (probably more like 6 or 700) before it busted two spokes.

Simply put, don't go for light, go for tough. I (obviously) highly endorse the Hardrock Sport, as it's downright bombproof right out of the shop.

High spoke count.

At 400 pounds, I'd suggest a 48 spoke hand built wheel, frankly. I know it's expensive, but you can get a lot more use out of them.

Peter White (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/) has 48 spoke hubs available as well as rims. You might also consider wheels from a tandem bike, as they will have very high spoke counts as well.

I'd also look at double butted spokes, while I was at it.

The problem for the OP is that Peter White is in the US, the OP is in Ontario, Canada, so a $500 wheel, when you add exchange, customs, brokerage fees and taxes can easily end up a $700 wheel in real money. One thing he might want to consider is to find a wheel builder closer to home, asking at the LBS is probably a good idea. I posted the question looking for recommendations on the TBN website, as he is close enough to Toronto, that either coming into the city to pickup wheels or getting them shipped, shouldn't be too expensive, TBN (http://www.tbn.ca) is a Toronto Bike Club, and folks there can usually recommend places. I figure any decent wheelbuilder can order the right parts.

As Tom said, see if your local bike shop can hand build some wheels using tandem rims.

I'm not sure if they ship internationally, but Worksman bikes are the strongest I know of: http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/indbikes.html

The problem for the OP is that Peter White is in the US, the OP is in Ontario, Canada, so a $500 wheel, when you add exchange, customs, brokerage fees and taxes can easily end up a $700 wheel in real money. One thing he might want to consider is to find a wheel builder closer to home, asking at the LBS is probably a good idea. I posted the question looking for recommendations on the TBN website, as he is close enough to Toronto, that either coming into the city to pickup wheels or getting them shipped, shouldn't be too expensive, TBN (http://www.tbn.ca) is a Toronto Bike Club, and folks there can usually recommend places. I figure any decent wheelbuilder can order the right parts.
Ah, yes, I understand! I forgot about import! Good point, Wogster!

Here's an alternative, by the way.

Looks like it has 36 spoke wheels, and if you put slicks on it, for the $$ it'll suffice and buy you time to find a heavier used wheel set or a builder.

Raleigh Mountain Bike, and it's in London, Ontario. Looks like a good starting point!

http://london.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-sports-bikes-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-W0QQAdIdZ13504249

I am 380 ish and my LBS explained that most MTB wheels will be fine. The shop I got my bike from explaiend that there is sweet spot for big guys. Go to cheap and you will have problems, Go to high the part are quality but lighter weight and you will have problems. Just don't go off road or jumping curbs. If you are going to ride on road or paths the standard stuff will be fine. I would go off spending a heap of cash right off the bat. It may not be necessary Right now I am 380 and I ride a Trek 7.2 FX which has 700c wheels. I think is has 32 spoke wheels. I ride it on the street and paths and I am careful not jump off any curbs and they are perfectly true.

why handbuilt? Can't you just get stock tandem wheels?

Good question Clancy, and I think the answer is yes. I know for myself I want to make sure that the wheel set is not compromised form the build at all. This will sound silly, but I want all the confidence I can get as I start back into riding. It would be tragic for me to start up and oval a wheel off the bat. I don't know if I could get started again.

So the hand built wheel gives me a guy to talk to that assures me that the wheel will remain true even with my weight. It is a mental thing for me.

Hmm, at that size, you are probably outside what is considered 'normal' - that's okay, what's 'normal' by modern standards is a skinny git weighing about 60 kg.

Go to your local bike shop, one that has a tame wheel builder (shouldn't be hard). Go from there. Get the wheels built for YOU. If the shop doesn't seem to care, go elsewhere. There is an engineering solution for everything and sometimes that solution involves replacing bits that break. BUT, you need to find yourself a shop that understands your issues and is willing to work with you. Once you find such a shop, the rest is easy - it might be frustrating at times but if they don't understand your issues, go elsewhere.

Richard

I'm with Mr. Chuckles. I weigh 375. I've had a 5-year old Hard Rock with stock wheels for two years with no problems. The better stock Mountain Bike tires are built to stand up to jumps and hops, and are pretty tough (presuming you're not going to jump and hop). I bought my bike for $100 on Craigslist, one fourth the price of a Peter White wheel. Before this, I had a hybrid with 700cc wheels. I was popping spokes every week.

If you are going off road, you will likely need the tandem wheels. For decent road usage, a well built 36-spoke wheel (even a higher quality stock wheel will be fine).

Or, for a starter bike you could get a new comfort bike with upgraded 26 inch wheels. This will give you a more upright riding position than a mountain bike. This would be more comfortable for short rides.

...The problem i have had in the past is rims. They all seem to bend or go off center as the local shop said.
Maybe the problem isn't simply rider weight. You didn't say anything about broken spokes. If what you are describing is just the wheel going out of true, I'd wonder if the spokes were in fact at the proper tension in the first place. Lighter riders might get by with undertensioned spokes but clydes can't. It might make sense for you to learn to adjust the trueness of your existing wheels so you can get a better intuition about what's really going on.

I wish to thank you all for your info on getting into riding. Hopefully tomorrow (sat) I will be buying my first bike in years......o what a feeling. ....I also drive truck so this is a total bonus due to being able to take the bike with me over the road. From one clyde to the other, Thank You and I hope to be online often to update on my progress..Brandon

Good news Brandon. good luck and have fun.

You can also use knob tires with a lower PSI to help cushion the shock on the rims. And riding at a sedate speed helps limit the stress on them.

But I think the bottom line is getting a good wheel build. Most LBS mechanics aren't all that good at it. It's like tuning a musical instrument--find the best guy in town to do it. A well tuned wheel with good rims and heavy spokes can carry way more than 400 lbs.

Hand-Builts are a must. I was able to ride a hybrid gingerly at 368. I can assure you,I took it easy. 300 is a sort of threshhold I'd say., below 300, Sun rims will do, providing you get them tuned every 300 miles or so,depending,only stock wheel I can vouch for, all other wheels that come WITH bikes themselves are designed to "hold", 300 or less. Designed for, not tolerate. At 400,the weight is extrordinary. You WILL crush the wheels if you plan any aggressive riding, sorry,I was a victim of the laws of the universe like the OP. Besides , money can be no object. Clothes ain't cheap for big guys. Health costs are much more $$.

I'm a uberclyde (350-370) and I am thinking of building a mtb commuter with a Bombshell Crusher wheelset (48 spokes, super trued on a Holland Lace Machine, and under $400 for the set). Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with these wheels.

BTW...I have been a long time lurker and first time poster right now and this thread is really great. You guys are really knowledgeable and supportive...ROCK ON!

Another vote for Hardrock. I weigh less than a lot of folks here (220 lbs), but I'm pretty hard on my bike - I've been doing drops, jumps, gaps, and riding down stairsets for 3 years on mine, and the rims are still true. I've never even broken a spoke.

The Hardrock frame is bulletproof, and the rest of the bike ain't bad either.

-DR

I'm a mere runt at 200lbs and snapped so many thick gauge spokes that I got a special wheel made.

Sun rims with Alpine DT spokes. They use those bad boys on tandems baby :)