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Ginny
 
Good Morning Tandem Forum!
(think Good Morning Vietnam!)

Well, I placed a post in CL denver that I wanted a tandem, and not a cheap one.
Most wanted posts are people wanted something for cheap.

I got a hit last night. Someone sent me info on a CoMotion Primera, 2004 in a size 21/18 for. . .
$1900!! Right size and definitely the right price.
The store also has a 2005 model in the 22/19 size for $2000. We could fit both of those bikes, the real
thought is whether there is a big difference between those two model years.
If not, I'm going for the 2004 since it's a smidge smaller.

Anyone know what differences there may be between the two years?
Thanks to you all for all the advice, the coddling and 'don't worry it'll be alright'
you've all shown me. I know, I'm a whiner sometimes.


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thalver
 
Congratulations.

While there are certainly going to be some subtle differences in model year, I wouldnt worry about it...fit trumps all the 'gear-head' niceties every time.

Fit isn't just about straddle clearance. Assuming frame geometry hasn't changed...both have relatively long captain's top tubes for their designated size...(21.5 and 22.5 respectively)...the latter size usually fits a normally proportioned adult male who is in the 5'9-6' range. Unless your partner has an exceptionally long torso and arms, (do his knucles scrape on the ground as he walks?) I suspect you are going to get a MUCH better fit with the small frame. The shorter top tube may also have the advantage of giving a bit better overall weight distribution, with more weight over the front wheel. If necessary, small adjustments in reach can be made by switching out stems.

All that said, if your LBS has personnel that are knowledgable about fit, I'd go with what they say.

Enjoy


TandemGeek
 
Anyone know what differences there may be between the two years?

AFAIK, there haven't been any major updates to the frame aside from perhaps a different look to the TIG welds which are strictly aesthetic. As for the components, again I don't believe there have been any dramatic changes. They may have different hubs, rims, or cranks/bottom brackets depending on what was available or the current spec at the the time, but the 'form, fit, and function' would all be on par.


zonatandem
 
Ginny: Go for best fit . . . component changes between the 2 years were very minimal.


DBC Steve
 
Somewhere in there they changed the cranks. Fit is always the key consideration regardless of equipment, as has been said countless times (plus 1). Send us pics of whatever you get.


Ginny
 
Will do pics, of course! It's a requirement!

Okay, this bike has only regular rim V brakes.
No drum, no disc. Who, what and how much can I expect to spend
putting a secondary brake on the bike.
We do live in the mountains and will need that.
Thanks!


TandemGeek
 
No drum, no disc. Who, what and how much can I expect to spend
putting a secondary brake on the bike.

Assuming you have a rear hub with left-side threading, between $110 - $155 for a complete kit. The price will depend on whether you specify a bar-end vs. thumb shifter and quick-release vs. standard attachment hardware.

You'll want to acquire it from someone like Mark Johnson at PrecisionTandems.com, Mel Kornbluh at TandemsEast.com, etc... who are Co-Motion dealers and who will know exactly what you'll need for the '04 Primera, depending on which hub it is fitted with.

An Avid rear disc would likely be a bit more expensive.


Ginny
 
Thanks TG!
Is there anything you don't know?


Ginny
 
So, my car (78 Mercedes 300SD, Turbo Diesel) doesn't go into reverse anymore. Started last Friday.
I took it into a tranny place and they gave me numbers that made my stomach roll. $2900-4600!!
I came home and since I had not yet given a CC number for the tandem I asked the DH if we should hold off on the bike and put the extra $2K on the car. I REALLY REALLY didn't want him to say yes. And he told me no, we should buy our bike. So, my car will sit for a while and we'll live on what we have (still two cars) until I can get my MB fixed.
What a guy.


Jinker
 
So, my car (78 Mercedes 300SD, Turbo Diesel) doesn't go into reverse anymore. Started last Friday.
I took it into a tranny place and they gave me numbers that made my stomach roll. $2900-4600!!
I came home and since I had not yet given a CC number for the tandem I asked the DH if we should hold off on the bike and put the extra $2K on the car. I REALLY REALLY didn't want him to say yes. And he told me no, we should buy our bike. So, my car will sit for a while and we'll live on what we have (still two cars) until I can get my MB fixed.
What a guy.

Sounds like he's got his head screwed on straight. :)

Besides, with one less car available you'll be more motivated to use the tandem, which makes it an even better value! :)


Michel Gagnon
 
There might be a few user-required modifications on the 2004 Primera that would make the bike more or less interesting for you. For instance, I ordered mine with lower gears (48-38-24 instead of 52-42-30) and bar-end shifters, while most people would get it with stock gearing and STI.


zonatandem
 
Ginny:
Unless you'll be riding down from Buffalo Bill's Grave on Lookout Mountain into Denver, regularly, or doing all of the major passses in the Rockies, there should be no rush on the 3rd brake setup.
If you've got 2 more cars, just leave the '78 MB sit a spell.
Priorities!


Red Rider
 
So, my car (78 Mercedes 300SD, Turbo Diesel) doesn't go into reverse anymore. Started last Friday.
I took it into a tranny place and they gave me numbers that made my stomach roll. $2900-4600!!
I came home and since I had not yet given a CC number for the tandem I asked the DH if we should hold off on the bike and put the extra $2K on the car. I REALLY REALLY didn't want him to say yes. And he told me no, we should buy our bike. So, my car will sit for a while and we'll live on what we have (still two cars) until I can get my MB fixed.
What a guy.

Sounds like a man after my own heart. Hey, wait, I'm married to a guy like that, hee! :D

Sorry about the car but major congrats on the bike. Got pictures?


rjberner
 
Please, PLEEEZE buy the bike Ginny.


Ginny
 
Please, PLEEEZE buy the bike Ginny.
Yeah, I know. Please buy the bike so I'll quit whining about it! :D :D :D

All is good, they are calling today for CC info and will ship it to me this
week. :)


oldacura
 
Ginny - when we 1st got our bike, we put an Arai drum brake on it on the advice of some tandem experts. We live north of Denver & ride in the mountains quite a bit.

After having the bike for a while, I decided that the added weight wasn't justified by how much we used it so I removed it.

The ONLY place we ride around here where I wish I had it was descending the upper part of Flagstaff Mountain (like Lookout Mountian cited by Zonatandem - but steeper). The bike rolls up to 30 mph or so & then have to brake to 5 mph to make the turns. This really heats up the rims. However, the last time we rode it (2 weeks ago) we didn't have the drum brake and we did OK. Last weekend we rode up (& down) Independence Pass & did not need the drum brake. This is a 20 mile and probably 4.000' descent. No problem with V-brakes.

As Zonatandem said - if you don't install a hub brake, just avoid steep mountain roads with really tight turns until you get some experience.

If you choose to get an Arai drum, I think you can get one from Harris Cyclery (online) for about $110.


TandemGeek
 
...we put an Arai drum brake on it on the advice of some tandem experts.

Just curious, were the experts the same folks who sold you the drum?

I don't necessarily disagree with the admonition to skip the drum unless you're either a very large team (400lb +, including triplets, quads, etc..), a "team" that is extremely cautious / nervous about descent speeds, or have "been there and done that" and just want the piece of mind that a drum provides to some teams.

However, in the big scheme of things and from a dealer or 3rd party point of view, when in doubt a drum-brake is pretty cheap insurance if the bike is drum-brake ready and has a far more practical application than most of the FARKLE that I see being added to tandems these days. Again, if it's not needed, no sense in spending the money but, when in doubt... or on the borderline for potentially needing a drum; well, that's a personal decision.


oldacura
 
Tandemgeek - no the "experts" were a disinterested 3rd party. As I understand it the Arai drum was designed for a moped & adapted for tandems. I agree - it works pretty well if you are a cautious and/or heavy team. My biggest dislikes of it are the cost/benefit ratio of weight/usage and that it is the "crudest" device on our bike.


TandemGeek
 
...it is the "crudest" device on our bike.

Actually, I believe the most crude component on a bicycle is the front derailleur: a brute force device at best. However, point taken: an Arai drum is worth its weight in gold for teams that truly need one, but is otherwise unneeded ballast for most other teams.

Upside: On a price per pound basis, it may be the least expensive component you can add to a tandem.


Ginny
 
If you were to make the front crank a single, what size would you go with?
Not that I'm gonna, it's just a interesting thought.


TandemGeek
 
If you were to make the front crank a single, what size would you go with?
Not that I'm gonna, it's just a interesting thought.

A bit too obscure for me to even venture a guess....

Could you rephrase the question? Are you referring to crank length for the captain's riding position or....????


Ginny
 
Sorry.
The front crank has three rings.
52-39-30

If one were to make the front crank with only one ring, would it be the 52 tooth, the 39 or the 30?


TandemGeek
 
The front crank has three rings. 52-39-30. If one were to make the front crank with only one ring, would it be the 52 tooth, the 39 or the 30?

How about, 'none of the above'.

Even a best-guess would also require information on the rear drive (fixed or freewheeling cog, cassette, or internally geared hub), the terrain, intended use, and fitness of the rider(s). However, shooting from the hip, I would presume something more on the order of a 48t chainring would be more appropriate for the greatest useable range.


zonatandem
 
Agree, depending on rider strength/terrain a 48T chainring would suffice in most instances as long as you've got a wide range cassette . . . say 11-34T.
Geez, Ginny, you're not gonna ride up to Leadville on a set-up like that?!


Ginny
 
Heck no!
It really was just a strange question. I've been dreaming tandems and in one dream I
only had one front chainring. We kept trying to change gears and finally found that the
ither two fronts had just fallen off. It was a dream after all!

I'm thinking of doing the Copper Triangle with Tom on the dual. Haven't mentioned this to him yet. . .
http://www.coppertriangle.com/info.html

Could be fun though!


Bentworker
 
Ginny,
I just sent you a shameless plug for a Co-motion Cappuccino I have, but looking at your signature it looks like you kicked down the money for the Primera...


Ginny
 
And it's been well worth the $$.
That Cap is pretty and I'd have jumped on it right away if I didn't
have the Primera.


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