mikeman715
05-23-07, 07:10 AM
So im taking apart an old varsity and i have everything off EXCEPT the cranks,I cant seem to get the pedals off.Any suggestions
Bicycle Mechanics - 1973 schwinn varsity
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tellyho
05-23-07, 07:51 AM
You know that the drive side unscrews clockwise, right? Other than that, use some PB Blaster, a true pedal wrench, possibly with a bigass pipe over the end. Try hitting the pedal wrench with a hammer sharply.
cpb406
05-23-07, 08:09 AM
Might also try a little heat from a propane torch to help free it up.
sonatageek
05-23-07, 03:46 PM
I have always had luck giving the threads (from both directions) a good soaking of WD-40 (or other spray lube) waiting, spraying again, waiting until the next day with one more spray and then give it a try.
wroomwroomoops
05-23-07, 03:55 PM
So im taking apart an old varsity and i have everything off EXCEPT the cranks,I cant seem to get the pedals off.Any suggestions
I don't have any suggestion, just a request: if you do find something that works, please report back. I have a similar problem - old clunker with decent enough quill and headset, sadly completely stuck.
I don't have any suggestion, just a request: if you do find something that works, please report back. I have a similar problem - old clunker with decent enough quill and headset, sadly completely stuck.
wickedchicken
05-23-07, 07:52 PM
Stuck parts are always frustrating. I've yet to find a perfect solution. I'm just learning about bike repair after wrenching on motorcycles and small engines. Here's what I learned in my past life--
Try repeat applications of a good penetrating oil, like liquid wrench. This stuff works better than WD-40 for really tough job because it (go figure) penetrates better. Between applications, tap the crank or any bolts gently--you're simply trying to vibrate the parts to fracture the rust and let the oil work its way in there.
Be patient. It can take longer than a day. Repeat applications.
If that doesn't work, I've had luck with a propane torch, as cpb406 suggested. You can experiment with heating up the area and then spraying it with the oil (the idea is that when the parts cool capillary action will suck in the oil). That said, the stuff is flammable, so have a wet towel on hand and be careful about it (i.e. don't spray and torch at the same time, or don't re-torch after you've just sprayed.)
Lastly, good tools can make a huge difference. As tellyho said, a good wrench sleeved onto a pipe can be out of this world.
Good luck!
Try repeat applications of a good penetrating oil, like liquid wrench. This stuff works better than WD-40 for really tough job because it (go figure) penetrates better. Between applications, tap the crank or any bolts gently--you're simply trying to vibrate the parts to fracture the rust and let the oil work its way in there.
Be patient. It can take longer than a day. Repeat applications.
If that doesn't work, I've had luck with a propane torch, as cpb406 suggested. You can experiment with heating up the area and then spraying it with the oil (the idea is that when the parts cool capillary action will suck in the oil). That said, the stuff is flammable, so have a wet towel on hand and be careful about it (i.e. don't spray and torch at the same time, or don't re-torch after you've just sprayed.)
Lastly, good tools can make a huge difference. As tellyho said, a good wrench sleeved onto a pipe can be out of this world.
Good luck!