Road Cycling - Newbie hints?

Hey guys, I just discovered this site and it rocks!

Well, I'm a total newbie to the sport. I've been thinking about road biking for a while and finally took the plunge when my LBS had a Univega Modo Vincere on sale that I couldn't say no to.

I have stock parts except for wellgo clipless pedals (that I don't really like), selle italia flight saddle and an avocet computer.

After getting the bike adjusted and tuned, I've just started biking about 20-30 mi per trip a couple times a week (mostly weekends). I'm starting off on bike trails to get acclimated.

Unfortunately, I know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about bikes other getting on and pedaling.

Any great sites/books/etc. that give the basics on road biking?
Any hints/FAQs/magazines you guys would recommend?
Where do you guys go to buy your eqmt and get info on the best deals/parts?
What accessories would you recommend?
Any specific issues/problems/comments with my stock
I'd appreciate any other advice you guys have. Road biking is awesome and I'm totally hooked.

Thanks a million. :D

Originally posted by aswoo
Any great sites/books/etc. that give the basics on road biking?
Any hints/FAQs/magazines you guys would recommend?
Where do you guys go to buy your eqmt and get info on the best deals/parts?
What accessories would you recommend?
Any specific issues/problems/comments with my stock
I'd appreciate any other advice you guys have. Road biking is awesome and I'm totally hooked.

The best way to learn about cycling is to hook up with some more experienced riders and go for some rides. Ask at your LBS if there are any clubs or group rides in your neighbourhood and go along. Cycling is an oral culture and, if people know that you're just starting out, they'll be happy to show you the ropes. You can't learn to ride in a paceline from a magazine any more than you can learn how to drive a car from a book.

Hang around forums like this one and others [Road Bike Review leaps to mind as a good one] and ask a lot of questions.

I tend to buy my gear from two really good LBSes in my area. I'll sometimes buy stuff from the Internet -- at Nashbar, Performance or Price Point -- if it's something I can't get around here, or it's off-season.

The essential accessories for a road bike are:
- A wedge pack that fits under your seat. Use it to hold a toolkit, some first aid stuff and spare cash.
- A small toolkit, including (among other things) allen keys and tire levers.
- A spare inner tube.
- A very basic first-aid kit.
- A roll of electrical tape.
- A tire pressure gauge.
- A small frame pump.
- A floor pump for your garage [filling up tires with a frame pump is a pain, and should only be done when you have to.]
- Water bottle cages and water bottles.
- A cyclocomputer [which you have].
- Chain cleaning supplies.
- A helmet.

You might also want to invest in a couple of pairs of padded shorts [wear them without underwear] and gloves. Bike jerseys are better than t-shirts for riding, and you can get inexpensive ones for @ $20.

The Modo Vincere is a sweet bike for the price. It's a little heavy [I think the 56 cm is about 23 lbs], but it's not so heavy that you'd really notice unless you're climbing Mont Ventoux. The component spec -- Campy Veloce -- is very sweet. I'm a Campagnolo-type guy, by the way. You can never go wrong with Campagnolo components on a Columbus steel frame.

You're going to have a lot of fun. Make some bike friends, go out and RIDE! You'll have a blast.

Originally posted by velocipedio
The best way to learn about cycling is to hook up with some more experienced riders and go for some rides. Ask at your LBS if there are any clubs or group rides in your neighbourhood and go along. Cycling is an oral culture and, if people know that you're just starting out, they'll be happy to show you the ropes.
I would "ditto" this advice from velocipedio. Being out here on the Left Coast, I don't know the situation in RI, but I was blessed by being in an area with with about 8 bike clubs. I asked around at the LBSs, looked at the newsletters and websites of the clubs, and ended up joining two (one with 700+ members, the other with 900+ members). I had been bicycle commuting for a number of years, but I knew how much I didn't know, and wanted to go to the next level. The clubs I joined were into the recreational and social aspect of cycling rather than the racing side, and each provided 8-10 club rides a week to choose from. I started out with slower paced rides that accommodated newcomers, and immediately started learning things about cadence, handling, group riding, etc., just by watching others and asking questions. To be sure, since I am a shy guy to begin with (except when I wield my bagpipes), I was uncomfortable interjecting myself into this new environment, and at first I felt a little distanced because the members seemed to have such a tight relationship, with the talks at regroups centering on X's vacation or Y's pet problems, or Z's top secret custom frame project, but within a few months, as my face became familiar, I was included more and more in the conversations until I became a "reg." And as a reg, if I see a new face, a newby, then it is my job to make sure that person has a positive experience in the club, which may include cheerleading up a tough hill, or helping with a flat, or just talking at lunch. The lunches or the espresso afterwards are some of the fun times, where the incredible rides and adventures stories come out and a new rider can learn a lot. And friends I've made in the club have become friends outside of riding.

Magazines for roadies are few and far between in the Yew Ess Aye, but Bicycling does have good articles on the basics of riding and upkeep, along with reasonable training plans for doing centuries and the like. You just have to wade through the ads and short-attention-span design to get to the nuggets.

As far as equipment advice, I would suggest that in the case of a limited budget, go for a few excellent bicycling shorts and fill out the rest of the clothing checklist with bargains. Your body comes in contact with the bike at three spots, hands. feet, and butt, and of the three, at least in my case, the butt is the most problematic. For a number of years I tried the $20 to $40-dollar shorts, but each time I tried a new brand I was disappointed--they just didn't do the job for the longer rides. On the other hand, the $80- to $110 shorts were "like buttah." So I bit the bullet and acknowledged that for my case, the shorts came first. YMMV.


Originally posted by aswoo
Road biking is awesome and I'm totally hooked.
Welcome! This is a blissful addiction!

Hey all,

Just like to say thanks for the help. I am a "newby" to cycling as well and I would like to thank velocipedio for his input on this topic.

I have just purchased a bike and didn't know what to buy in the way of accessories to carry. But after reading this I now know that I have the get a wedge pack to fit under the seat.

Now I won't high jack this thread but I have a couple of question to ask but I will start my own thread.

Locker

Those Wellgo pedals (a.k.a. Nasbar, Forte) really are a piece of junk. Replace them as soon as you possibly can. They are prone to breaking, and will likely leave you stranded someday. Best to get a good pair of Looks.

No matter where I go I'm up to my *** in Alligators and Monkeys! (wink) *S

Hammer till ya puke ...Dudley *S*

Books go to the library and look for authors: Hinault, Lemond, Eddie B. (Bjrycevic?) ot others with national or international wins. Look in the "stacks often not everything is in the catalog.

ride informed
Pat

If you want to replace the Wellgos with Looks, sierratradingpost.com has some inexpensive Looks for $40 and a little higher grade for $70. The $70 are the same model I paid $130 for at my LBS. I buy most of my stuff from my LBS but I will take advantage of good online bargains when I come across them and for inexpensive items my LBS would have to special order.

If you order some pedals, you can put them on yourself; they just screw in. Keep in mind that the left (non-drive side) pedal has left handed threads. You will need a narrow 15 mm wrench. It doesn't have to be a "pedal wrench" but a standard 15 mm open end or adjustable might be too thick.

Thanks a lot velocipedio and UncaStuart. I've already got a decent pair of bike shorts but I may need a better pair. I must admit that the butt is the first place to go.

I'll definitely take the advice in regards to getting involved with a biking club or group. The guys at the LBS are already getting to know me, but I'm still working on finding a decent bike club. The rides I've heard of locally are only listed for intermediate to advanced riders so far. I'll have to keep looking...

In regards to the pedals, I do think that I'll have to get a new set of Looks or something else. My cleats keep sticking and I'm afraid I'll get myself into trouble one day with cleats that won't unlatch easily.

Well, thanks for all the advice so far. I look forward to hearing from more of you guys.

By the way, what is this stuff about spinning?
And are there skills specific to road biking I should be working on -- like standing in place?
And is nutrition really important to biking? I must admit, I really end up eating a lot of crap due to work -- long hours and little time to be health conscious.

In regards to your question about spinning and other techniques you might want to practice I recommend that you shift gears alot. Way more than as if you are driving a car. And shift down so that your legs don't feel like they are lifting weights at the gym. If you are going to err, it's better to be spinning too fast rather than mashing the pedals. So keep your hands busy, and shift!!

Originally posted by aswoo
By the way, what is this stuff about spinning?
And are there skills specific to road biking I should be working on -- like standing in place?
Don't worry about practicing your track stand, most roadies I know -- including me -- still haven't got that one right. Leave it to the trackies.

Spinning basically means pedalling easily at a high cadence. The best way to practice spinning is to get up a head of speed and shift DOWN into a gear JUST easier than the gear you need to be in to maintain speed. What happens is, because you don't have to overcome the inertia of the drivetrain every pedal stroke, your pedalling becomes more efficient.

I find that, on solo rides, I spin comfortably [@100 rpm] in the small chainring [39t], right in the middle of the cassette [16t cog]. At that cadence, I'll be moving at about 32 km/h. Try it.

And is nutrition really important to biking? I must admit, I really end up eating a lot of crap due to work -- long hours and little time to be health conscious.
Proper nutrition is important to LIFE... but particularly to cycling, and any other endurance sport you care to mention.

Among other things, you have to make sure that you're getting enough carbohydrates -- grain-based foods, fruits, etc. -- to provide fuel for your body on a ride; you have to make sure that you're getting enough protein to build and repair muscle mass; you have to keep the fat and cholesterol WAY down, though you have to have SOME fat in your diet.

The fact is that a NORMAL healthy diet is a cyclist's normal healthy diet. So cut out the junk food and grease and pay attantion to what you're eating.

You can still ride a bike without worrying about your diet and nutrition, but you won't be a real cyclist -- and improve as a cyclist -- unless you do. That doesn't mean giving up ice cream or anything, just don't have it for desert every day.

The other thing to remember is that healthy foods are, strangely, more satisfying than unhealthy foods. I made a batch of blueberry bran muffins that'd blow your socks off.

Thanks for the help so far, guys. I'm working on the spinning. As for the nutrition -- well, that's gonna be a slow road.

I just got back from another 30 mi trip (I follow this bike trail that 15 mi long each way).

After this ride, I have a few more questions.

First of all, I'm having a lot of trouble clipping out of wellgo pedals on my bike. I asked the guys at the LBS about them and he mentioned that it might be my shoes, because I'm using mtn biking shoes. Do shoes make a great difference (mountain vs road) or should I switch the pedals first?
I saw another guy clipping out of Look pedals which seemed remarkably easy - as for me, I have to unclip way ahead of time before a stop for fear of getting stuck (learned the hard way after a couple falls).

Also, after about thirty miles, I find that my bottom begins to bother me as well as my lower back. I had just switched to a Selle Italia Flite Gel saddle but don't seem to notice a great difference in comfort. I also suspect my saddle is a little low despite having been fitted at the LBS, possibly leading to a little lower back discomfort. Any suggestions?
I'm wearing a $40 pair of Pearl Izumi bike shorts. And I'm a pretty thin guy (not much natural padding). Think it would be worth it for me to take the dive for a more expensive pair of bike shorts? UncaStuart did mention that the $80-110 variety were "like buttah." But I've heard other comments to the contrary.

Nevertheless, despite little issues, I must say that I find I'm always itching to get on my bike whenever I have a few free hours. Thanks for all the advice!:D

The bike shop may have fitted you into a standard racing bike position. That may be OK if you grew up on a bike, but as a newbie, you have to ease into the position. You may be riding with your bars to long and low . Low aerodynamic positions help if you are rididing fast, but if you are cruising longer distances, then a more upright position is more comfortable.

Spinning the pedals is something that you can train at lower speeds. You dont have to go all out to spin fast. Maintain a steady work-rate/heartbeat, drop down a few gears, and increase your cadence. After a while, you will naturally want to cycle a higher cadence all the time.

MTB shoes are fine for road pedals, and make life easier off the bike. Dont feel pressured to change them.

Be careful not to overdo your new excecise. Your muscles build up with weeks, but the rest of your body may take a few months to acclimatise. It probably takes 3 months of regular cycling before you a really ready for hard riding.

Originally posted by aswoo
...Also, after about thirty miles, I find that my bottom begins to bother me as well as my lower back...
I agree with MichaelW that part of it might have to do with muscle tone...I know that when I haven't ridden for a couple of weeks, my rear hurts for the first couple of rides, but then I'm fine. Lower back pain is something that you should be careful with...it might have to do with position in the saddle, as you mentioned, or you may need to make sure you change your position throughout your ride by using different hand positions or standing. On longer rides you may need to stop and stretch a little, 'til your muscles are stronger.

Originally posted by aswoo
First of all, I'm having a lot of trouble clipping out of wellgo pedals on my bike. I asked the guys at the LBS about them and he mentioned that it might be my shoes, because I'm using mtn biking shoes. Do shoes make a great difference (mountain vs road) or should I switch the pedals first?
I'm not sure what KIND of Wellgo pedals you have, but you should be able to set the release tension with a turn of a bolt. If you're using MTB shoes with road pedals, the problem may be that the tread of your shoe does not have sufficient clearance for the pedals.

Also, after about thirty miles, I find that my bottom begins to bother me as well as my lower back. I had just switched to a Selle Italia Flite Gel saddle but don't seem to notice a great difference in comfort. I also suspect my saddle is a little low despite having been fitted at the LBS, possibly leading to a little lower back discomfort. Any suggestions?
My butt hurts like this for the fisrt few rides of the year. [I live in Canada, so there's a layoff of a couple of months for winter.] My theory is that cycling kills some of the nerves in your butt, and every year, I have to kill some of those regenerated news all over again. That may be part of your problem.

As another poster suggested, it could very well be saddle position -- and this may have something to do with your back pain as well -- so you might want to experiment with turning the saddle angle up or down a notch. You should always do lower back-stretches before a long ride, in any case, and you might find that, by strengthening your abdominal muscles through sit-up or crunches, your back gets stronger.

I'm wearing a $40 pair of Pearl Izumi bike shorts. And I'm a pretty thin guy (not much natural padding). Think it would be worth it for me to take the dive for a more expensive pair of bike shorts? UncaStuart did mention that the $80-110 variety were "like buttah." But I've heard other comments to the contrary.
PI's are good shorts. Stick with them for a couple of weeks and see what happens. It's entirely possible that other adjustments might make you more comfortable, or even that your shorts need to be broken in. I have a pair of Sugoi shorts that I love now, but it took a couple of weeks for the stiching on the chamois to soften up.

Your butt soreness might be due to friction, though. This is going to sound weird, but a whole lot of roadies I know [including myself] smear some hand lotion or Bag balm on their buts at the contact points [the perch bones] before putting on their shorts. It goes a long way toward reducing discomfort due to friction.

Just wanted to say welcome... I am not too far into this venture either and I am very impressed with your miles... 30 at a clip. Your gonna be a "contender" one day if you keep that pace going.

My first piece of advice is hang out on this site, keep riding and decide what works best for you consdering how, what, where and when you ride most often.

Second, keep yourself a cycle log (spreadsheet) of trips... distance, avg speed, time in saddle. Make sure to make a remarks column for equipment changes, weather, notable events, routes, etc.

We're all students of the science until the end!

Your butt will get sore until you're used to riding, and each spring when you start again. Some better shorts wil come in handy, synthetic chamois vs the cloth liner you have now. Cloth is OK for short rides, but not much else. Wear your shorts next to your skin, and use clean ones each day, of course. Chamios fat/cream or noxema will help as well, talc on the cloth.
Spinning-
I've been riding seriously for 30 years and have to work on my spin every spring, working on my ultimate spin speed 160 + for a few seconds, (until my tongue hits the spokes). The faster your "ultimate" spin is the better your stroke will be. I try to ride during the season at 100 rpm but rareley do. I try not to use the big chainring until I HAVE to, well over 20 mph, and never during the beginning of the season.
Circles- Don't just push down on the pedals push forward, down and then pull back like you're trying to scrape something off your shoe. Make your force go at right angles to the crank arms, but take it easy on pulling up.
ride smart
Pat

Hey guys, thank you all for the support and encouragement.

I just had a ride yesterday which was probably both my best and worst. Certainly it was the most fun. I've been searching for a club/group of riders for a while now but due to my erratic riding schedule and lack of much availability, I haven't hooked up with anyone as yet.

However, yesterday, a group of 4-5 riders overtook me while I was on the bike trail. So I decided to tag along. It was amazing how much easier it was to ride in a group of several people. I was riding at 16 mph without having to work at all (this was great since I was feeling a little sore this morning). Eventually, the makeshift group collapsed and only myself and another rider made it the full 15 mph to the end of the bike trail, but it was remarkably fun!

The way back, on the other hand, was torture since I'm still making lots of stupid rookie mistakes and hadn't purchased an Allen key yet (as velocipedio suggested day 1). I rode the whole way back with a saddle that popped out of position, had a fall when my feet remained stuck in my wellgo 705 (avoid at all cost) pedals, and ran into some bitter biker who was annoyed that I trailed him for 5 miles -- I guess not all people are friendly. I also seem to have strained a calf muscle in my enthusiasm yesterday.

All in all, though, I must say that my rides are getting better. I'm learning a little more each day, my behind is hurting less, and spend more and more time in that nirvana zone where I feel like I'm spinning really well and have a sensation of moving with the wind. That, my friends, is one of the best feelings in the world. Thanks again, and I'll be asking more questions when I get the time.

Thanks again to velocipedio, nunquam, and MichaelW for the advice. With each ride, I am slowly adjusting my saddle position. And though it hurts the pride, I agree that part of my problems may be conditioning. After all, I started biking in order to get into better shape overall. And my sore right calf is a reminder now for me not to overdo it. I knew I was pushing myself too hard when I was trying to keep up with one biker who was buzzing along easily at almost 20 mph.

My lower back does still get sore near the end of every 30 mi ride and I am as yet trying to find a good position to be in.

Thanks to s_boy for the encouraging remark and I will be taking into account pat5319's advice in regards to the bike shorts and seat if I continue to have problems in that regard.

I think the best part of this is that I got into road biking just to force myself to get out and do something active. Now I try to bike as often as I can (which is still only 2x/wk) but the whole sport has somehow gotten me enthusiastic about the whole field of health, exercise and nutrition.

Any great books/primer's on biking, by the way. I need to learn something about bike maintenance and about the nuances of road biking in general. I just bought a book by Davis Phinney and Connie Carpenter. I'd like to develop a good general library on biking or maybe even in living healthier. I'd love to hear your recommendations in that regard, esp. if there is a book that you guys love or live by.

A tad embarrassing, but the "Bicycles for Dummies"
book was actually quite good

It is always considered rude to suck air off another cyclist unless you are riding a paceline together. In Italy, such a manouever could get you "spoked"! I assume the "rude guy" was one of those you started to "race". Road cyclists by and large aren't racing, and don't like it when pests try to turn their training run into one. Unless you know them, don't ride their @$$, and don't play racer-boy, either. Find your own group, and leave theirs alone.
Wellgo pedals, as I have said before, are worse than no pedal at all. They break easily, but don't want to let you go. Get rid of them as soon as possible.

Riding close enough to slipstream takes some skill. If the front rider has to take evasive action to avoid a hazard, its quite possible for the rear rider to collide. Rear riders need to keep a lookout for themselves. It really is not something for novice riders to try, and if a newbie tried riding that close to me, I would get annoyed. Considering that you are still at the falling off stage of riding, this is way too advanced.
There is more to riding than simply going fast. Try some slow riding to improve your handling. You should be able to bunny hop, track stand, emergency stops, precision steering, slalom. The cool down period at the end of a ride is a good time to play with technique.

The best thing to do when you come up to a group you want to draft is to ask "do you guys mind if I draft/hitch a ride/follow along?" It might also be worth your while to mention that your a novice and that you're still learning about pacelines and stuff. You MIGHT offer to pull [lead the paceline], but this can be tricky if you've never done it before and you don't know the hand signals.

Most of the time, if they know you're new to the sport and you don't draft too close [too close for most people would be within one foot], they'll let you hang with them for a while. It doesn't bother me, by the way, when I pick up passengers on a ride. It's not like it means extra work for me, and if it lets people have a good ride, then why not?

Having said all of that, NEVER attack on a rider or riders you don't know, ESPECIALLY after hitching a free ride. That's like sitting down at someone's table AND trying to eat his dessert.

Just to clarify: The group that I ended up drafting was actually one which was drafting behind me initially. So when they passed by and I ended up following them, they were actually great. Eventually, some of those guys petered out and the last person I continued to follow was a great guy that I had a nice conversation with.

My problem came when I simply happened upon another rider on my way back. Though I stayed about 10 to 20 feet behind him at all times and tried not to interupt his ride, he seemed particularly annoyed that he couldn't lose me (I was following my own routine at the time). Eventually, out of simple courtesy, I mentioned that I hoped he didn't mind me behind him. He grumbled reply was enough for me to slow down significantly just so he could get way ahead -- since we were riding at near the same pace -- we didn't lock horns again.

I have yet to race anybody, but I'll let you know if I do.
;)

Just got back from a nice ride. I always feel energized after a couple hours on the bike. Now I have a question for you guys:

What basic maintenance do I need to do for my road bike? And how often? I've just had my bike for a month or so now and am starting to wonder when and how to clean the chain/parts/etc.

Any good books on this subject?
:D

see threads in mechanics and general discussion
Ride Happy
pat

Hi aswoo,
First of all unless you race get Mtb pedals. The nice thing about them is you can use a shoe you can actually walk in . You can get a good shoe for around 60 bucks. The mtb pedals are 2 sided you have a nice quick mount. The Sella saddles are great but as stated by another you have to use them several times a week to break in your butt. Speaking of butts your shorts should be plenty good but you may want to consider using Butt -R. Its a great cream to put on your shorts liner and I even put a bit on any spot on my butt that has a tendency to rub a bit. It costs 10 bucks for a rather large tube that lasts a long time. I never ride without treating my chamois with it.
Another important thing in learning to beat the crap out of other riders is to learn to Spin. Almost all roadies watch the pro's and try to imitate them so they spend all their time in the 53 tooth chain ring. Of course they forget to realize the pro is spinning the large chainring in a high gear. The avg roadie cannot spin a high gear so they plod along at 50 to 70 rpm etc. Work in the small chainring to get a nice spin of at least 80...90 to 100 is best but takes awhile. I know I will get jumped for this statement but unless you are really strong or doing alot of high speed decents consider getting a smaller large chainring. I use a 48 as my big chainring and its great. Lets me keep up a nice 80rpm or more while getting a nice speed.Got carried away here but what I am saying is learn to spin. Hey even Lances coach firgured that one out. *S*
Ride safe and spin spin spin ....Dudley

Originally posted by velocipedio

The essential accessories for a road bike are:
- A wedge pack that fits under your seat. Use it to hold a toolkit, some first aid stuff and spare cash.
- A small toolkit, including (among other things) allen keys and tire levers.
- A spare inner tube.
- A very basic first-aid kit.
- A roll of electrical tape.
- A tire pressure gauge.
- A small frame pump.
- A floor pump for your garage [filling up tires with a frame pump is a pain, and should only be done when you have to.]
- Water bottle cages and water bottles.
- A cyclocomputer [which you have].
- Chain cleaning supplies.
- A helmet.


What is the roll of electrical tape for?
And as for chain cleaning supplies, how often do I need to clean the chain?
I recently bought the frame pump and the guy at the LBS suggested that we hook it up to the seat tube as opposed to the down tube -- in order for easy access while riding in case I need to start swinging at chasing dogs. Anybody have this problem?
I'm also looking to get a trainer. Any recommendations?

you need to clean your chain at least monthly. electical tape is as useful as duct tape, but fits in smaller ares.

Originally posted by aswoo
What is the roll of electrical tape for?
More than you can imagine. As Alex points out, it's almost as handy as duct tape, and it fits into a wedge pack. I've used it for first aid, to re-attach things like broken cyclocomputer mounts and sensors, to protect a tube valve from the sharp edges of a valve hole when rim tape was improperly applied. I've used it to tape the inside of a tire to close up a small cut, and to do a field repair of a shredded sidewall. When you're on a century, 80 km from a bike shop, it can mean the difference between a limping ride and a looooong walk.

And as for chain cleaning supplies, how often do I need to clean the chain?
I do a complete cleaning of my road bike's chain, cassette and chain rings about once a week. Of course, I ride about 400 km/week. I'll also do aomewhat more superficial cleanings halfway through that cycle -- more if i've picked up dust and grit.

If you get caught in the rain, do a complete clean before you ride again. Rain gets grit into the chain like nobody's business. If you don't clean that, you can really damage the chain, and a Campy 10-speed cain is pretty pricey.

You can't break a 10-speed chain to clean it, so I use one of those cleaning machines. It does the job pretty well. I also get at the cogs and chainrings with a cog brush and a toothbrush and some citrus degreaser, and I throughly clean the derailleur pulley wheels with a toothbrush and dishwashing liquid.

Do this every 400-500 km and you'll be a happy camper.

I recently bought the frame pump and the guy at the LBS suggested that we hook it up to the seat tube as opposed to the down tube -- in order for easy access while riding in case I need to start swinging at chasing dogs. Anybody have this problem?
Nope. My frame pump is a small one [one of those mini-pumps]. It's mounted on the seat-tube togetjer with the bottle cage. It's rather too small be be much use as a weapon.

Great Suggestions! I recently rejoined the ranks of the roadies this June after a long absence. Two things I found that helped:

1) Perseverance - some days just suck, but i know that if i go out and do it again it will not be as bad tomorrow.

2) Cadence - keep it fast, monitor it, make it your life - when my cadence is up the ride is great, as soon as it drops I suffer, and I do whatever it takes to keep it up above 75.

You also mentioned that you were looking for ride clubs. You should try http://dir.yahoo.com/Recreation/Sports/Cycling/ there is a really good list, by state, of all the bike organizations - I sure Providence has some.

So, have you done the East Bay path yet?

Hey kosinmass, thanks for the suggestions.

Just got back from a ride on the East Bay Bike Path. It is a nice path and the first place I began riding. I've also heard a lot of good things about the Scituate Reservoir. I'll take a look and probably try it in a few weeks.

I agree about the cadence. I try to keep my rate around 90.

Last of all, I appreciate the yahoo search. You may be surprised to find there is no listing for Rhode Island. Nevertheless, I have a few leads to clubs. I'll have to make it to their rides one of these days.

Aswoo -

try http://www.nbwclub.org/ that's the site for the Naragansett (spelled correctly) wheelmen.

good luck - keep pedalin

Thanks --
That's exactly who I've been looking into. One of these days, I'll go on a ride with them.

Originally posted by aswoo
And is nutrition really important to biking? I must admit, I really end up eating a lot of crap due to work -- long hours and little time to be health conscious.

I'm relatively new to road biking myself, but come from an extensive running background. A few pointers on nutrition. The key ingredient is water! Drink more, you aren't drinking enough (I promise). I drink at least 100oz a day. As for meals, make sure you are getting a balanced meal. I shoot for a 2:1 carb to protein ratio that works well for me.

Originally posted by D*Alex


Best to get a good pair of Looks.



why not a good pair of time pedals?

cabledonut.

I'm really liking speedplay pedals, highly recommend them!

Just a slightly different perspective from another biker. I have been riding for nearly four years, and didn't get serious until I was 58 1/2 yo.

Anyway.

1. I use less expensive (cheap??) padded shorts quite well with absolutely no problems!! I get mine on sale at Nashbar, and have never had any kind of problem.

2. And (and most of the folks out there will shudder at this) I DO wear jockey shorts under my biking shorts. I feel it keeps the biking shorts cleaner, I can change them easier, and it just feels more comfortable to me. In 12,000 miles of biking I have NEVER had any kind of saddle sore or butt problem. I never use balm of any kind, and the only thing I have ever needed was just a little vaseline for some leg chafing. But that is very rare and far between. (There is a whole secret fraternity of folks like me who wear Jockeys under their bike shorts but never admit it publicly. We even have our own secret email list).

3. DO get rid of those pedals ASAP. You could have a really bad fall if you can't get out of them quickly when you need to. And, mtn bike shoes are great for both a mtn bike and a road bike. REALLY - GET RID OF THOSE THINGS TODAY!!

4. Get a floor pump with a gauge. Feeling if the tire is hard is not satisfactory. It will feel hard from about 60-70 pounds, which is way too low for a road tire.

Enjoy the world of biking. That grumpy guy you mentioned was probably trying unsuccessfully to lose you and was upset (with himself) because you were continuously behind him and he couldn't pull away (been there, done that) - but I wasn't grumpy to the other rider, just mad at myself!!

Originally posted by DnvrFox
(There is a whole secret fraternity of folks like me who wear Jockeys under their bike shorts but never admit it publicly. We even have our own secret email list).
Don't kid yourself. We know who you are. We can see your panty-lines.

Honestly, anyone who would NOT go in public wearing skin-tight shorts without underwear and who would somehow decline to slather his butt with slimey balm must be asome kind of preeevert!

Ummm... on second thought, let me think about that...

Originally posted by velocipedio

Don't kid yourself. We know who you are. We can see your panty-lines.

Honestly, anyone who would NOT go in public wearing skin-tight shorts without underwear and who would somehow decline to slather his butt with slimey balm must be asome kind of preeevert!

Ummm... on second thought, let me think about that...

Yeah, and sometimes I bike in a T-shirt and Levis.

The local roadies totally ignore me when I do that. A couple of weeks ago I was tooling along on my mtn bike (panniers, battery, lights, huge wedge, sort of beat-up looking) and came across a group of "real" roadies - all dolled up in their matching club jerseys, lite-speeds, $150.00 helmets and the works. I had on a sweat shirt and Levis with a rubber band around my leg so the pants would not get caught in the chain. They were obviously lost, and were having a big, big discussion about where to go on the trail intersection.

I stopped and offered to give them directions. WOW - talk about derisive, snobbish, put down looks!! I was OBVIOULY not one of "THEM".

So, I moseyed along the trail as they continued their one-upmanship of each other. Takes all kinds.

Hey, I just checked and found that this post was originally started in August. The original poster is either an accomplished biker by now or is dead from those awful pedals. So much for any new advice!!

i've had the cheap padded bike shorts for over a year with no problems, i do prefer to wear an athletic supporter underneath them, keeps the boys up front.

I wore those mid-length briefs or boxer briefs, or whatever you want to call them, under my shorts for the first few months I was wearing padded shorts for the same reason. I don't remember why I finally decided to try going commando. It felt a little strange at first, but after a couple of weeks if felt normal. FYI, not wearing undies does not seem to get the shorts dirtier. I wear the same pair 2-3 days, hanging them to thoroughly dry. Believe me, if I were seeing signs of, uh, soil, I would have the undies back on real quick.
FWIW,
Raymond

Ummm... Raymond, you really should wash your shorts after every ride. It's not the soiling that you can see that'll get you, but the bacteria that you can't see.

I ride so much that WEARING underwear tends to feel a little strange to me. The only thing that comes between me and my chamois is some kind of lube.

Originally posted by DnvrFox

Hey, I just checked and found that this post was originally started in August. The original poster is either an accomplished biker by now or is dead from those awful pedals. So much for any new advice!!

I'm not sure that I would call myself much of an accomplished rider yet. I've appreciated all the advice from all of you guys, especially the regulars like velocipedio.

Still a weekend warrior, biking around 30-60 miles a weekend, when I get the time. Over the months, I did get rid of the underwear and am now considering getting a more expensive pair of bike shorts (my bony butt still hurts after a couple hours!). I have a Sella Italia Flight Gel -- supposedly a great seat but not doing the trick for me. Any recommendations for a skinny kid with lots of buttock pain -- which seems to be detracting from the enjoyment of my ride?

To get you up to date, I eventually had to fork over the money and get bibs and a jacket due to the cold here in Rhode Island. Also, as a treat to myself, got a pair of Oakley polarized sunglasses -- they're awesome, but I'll be paying for those for a while.

What do you guys ride in the winter, by the way? Do you stick to your road bike in the rain and snow or switch over to a road bike or give up altogether and bike indoors or jog?

I've been kicking around the idea of getting a bike trainer but don't know whether I should or not and which brand to purchase. i.e. magnetic/wind/fluid or aluminum rollers.

And last of all, energy bars. Any good? Should I be eating in addition to hydrating myself during every ride? I seem to flag in strength after 2-3 hours...

I'm currently a resident physician (i.e. slave) working 100-120 hrs a week in the hospital -- so I dream of the day when I can actually dedicate a little more time to biking. (Obviously not anytime soon).

Last of all, thanks once again for the posts and keep them coming. I think that the number of views along this thread speaks to the fact that there are a ton more newbies like myself who continue to benefit from the wisdom of the posts here.

Originally posted by aswoo


I'm not sure that I would call myself much of an accomplished rider yet. I've appreciated all the advice from all of you guys, especially the regulars like velocipedio.
No sweat, Aswoo. We can always use another body in the peloton. :)


Any recommendations for a skinny kid with lots of buttock pain -- which seems to be detracting from the enjoyment of my ride?
I personally hate gel saddles. I prefer something relatively firm, with a thin layer of high-density foam padding. I'd recommend the Selle Italia Flite Trans Am. I have one on my road bike and another on my MTB. Most comfortable saddle I've ever ridden.

HAving said that, my butt is different than yours, and what might work for me might not work for you. Two things to consider: (1) it may not be the saddle, but the angle and height of the saddle that's bothering you. Try changing the angle or height very slightly and see if that's better. (2) Saddles can be had cheaply at this time of year; though you can't try before you buy, you might be able to go through a couple inexpensively to find ther one you like.


What do you guys ride in the winter, by the way? Do you stick to your road bike in the rain and snow or switch over to a road bike or give up altogether and bike indoors or jog?
If they didn't salt the roads around here, I'd probably ride until the daytime temps got down to -10C. As it is, we just had some snow, and the roads are salted, and I don't want to destroy my bike. We might get some rain, followed by clear days and high-ish temps this week. That might clear the streets enough for a last few rides... And I'm just THIS close to 9000 km for the year!

I'll be jogging and cross country skiing thoughout the winter, and I plan to get a 3-month membership at the local health club to use their trainers and weights and build my quads some so that, when cycling resumes in the spring I can outsprint my cycling buddies and crush them like the insects they are!:D

I do have a trainer that I plan to set up for an occasional pedalling fix, but, to be honest, I REALLY hate trainers... as much as I hate gyms.


I've been kicking around the idea of getting a bike trainer but don't know whether I should or not and which brand to purchase. i.e. magnetic/wind/fluid or aluminum rollers.
Go for mag or fluid. Wind trainers are not all that much less expensive and they're incredibly noisy.


And last of all, energy bars. Any good? Should I be eating in addition to hydrating myself during every ride? I seem to flag in strength after 2-3 hours...
As a physician, you should know about how important it is to hydrate and eat on a ride. A good rule of thumb is to eat before you get hugry and drink before you get thirsty. In practical terms, what you need on a ride of any intensity is carbohydrates. Try to get 20g-30g of carbohydrates per hour.

Energy bars ar one way to do this, and some taste pretty good... but they can be pricey. A Balance bar has about 22g of carb, Clif and Powerbars about 35g-40g. Fig Newtons cotain 11g each, and they're easy to pop into you mounth from an open baggie in a back pocket -- and they're relatively cheap and taste great. You can also water down some Gatorade in a water bottle. I do this on long rides [like centuries] to keep a fairly constant intake of carb [it's like an oral glucose drip].

But you really SHOULD eat something every 60-90 minutes.

Welcome to the peloton.

I also want to get new pedals... I've been riding on old fashioned ones. I was looking at the looks website that y'all mentioned above and they advertise "the clipless pedal." Dumb question - does this mean your shoe doesn't clip/attach to the pedal?

Also, the guys at my local bike shop said that they could set me up with shoes and pedals for about $125. Is that reasonable? Are there anything I should look out for? I want to get something good but I don't want to spend more than necessary.

(I want to bump my road mileage up to 100+ mi/week)

Thanks!

Originally posted by jessie
I also want to get new pedals... I've been riding on old fashioned ones. I was looking at the looks website that y'all mentioned above and they advertise "the clipless pedal." Dumb question - does this mean your shoe doesn't clip/attach to the pedal?
On the contrary. Clipless pedals attach your feet to the pedlas without using traditional toe-clips and straps. You have a cleat on the sole of your shoe that clips into a binding mechaism on the pedal [not unlike a ski binding, in fact]. The advantages are that (1) "clipless" pedals attach your feet to the pedals much more comfortably and efficiently than traditional clips and straps (2) by binding your feet to the pedals, they make pedalling much more efficient than basic platform pedals, (3) they are MUCH easier to get out of than traditional clips and straps and therefore safer.

I personally think the term clipless pedals is a stupid misnomer, since you do actually "clip" into them. I've seen people refer to them as click-in pedals... maybe that's better.


Also, the guys at my local bike shop said that they could set me up with shoes and pedals for about $125. Is that reasonable? Are there anything I should look out for? I want to get something good but I don't want to spend more than necessary.
Depends on the pedals and on the shoes. A typical set of entry-level SPD-style pedal costs about $50, and you can get adecent pair of touring/MTB shoes for about $75, so $125 sounds reasonable.


(I want to bump my road mileage up to 100+ mi/week)
Go for it! That's a good and realistic goal. It means 20 mi/day, five days a week... and that's good cycling.

Originally posted by velocipedio
On the contrary. Clipless pedals attach your feet to the pedlas without using traditional toe-clips and straps. You have a cleat on the sole of your shoe that clips into a binding mechaism on the pedal [not unlike a ski binding, in fact]. The advantages are that (1) "clipless" pedals attach your feet to the pedals much more comfortably and efficiently than traditional clips and straps (2) by binding your feet to the pedals, they make pedalling much more efficient than basic platform pedals, (3) they are MUCH easier to get out of than traditional clips and straps and therefore safer.


Thank you - It all makes sense now! And thank you for the pricing information (and encouragement)!