Electric Bikes - Schwinn izip Conversion

Thats awesome, but I've noticed that even with my stock power pack the bike can got too fast for the pedals, has anyone here changed their gear ratios so they can pedal at faster speeds?

Thats awesome, but I've noticed that even with my stock power pack the bike can got too fast for the pedals, has anyone here changed their gear ratios so they can pedal at faster speeds?

anyone??????

anyone??????

I think you're talking about with your extra battery pack mounted on back. My stock Izip will take me up to 20 MPH~, so when I pedal in 7th gear I can take it up an extra 5 mph, although not for very long before I get tired. If 7th gear is not enough for you, you must be up over 25 mph.:)

I think you're talking about with your extra battery pack mounted on back. My stock Izip will take me up to 20 MPH~, so when I pedal in 7th gear I can take it up an extra 5 mph, although not for very long before I get tired. If 7th gear is not enough for you, you must be up over 25 mph.:)

Its happening at about 30 kmh on the flat ground.

Hmmmm

I'll have to check my derailer, maybe it wasn't adjusted properly at the store and I don't have my high gear.

Bah... had to happen sooner or later. My stock curry motor partially cooked (I'm running 36V SLA). I foolishly took the bike on mud trails. Full throttle up a mud hill = lots of amps, with next to zero mechanical work at the motor shaft: all those watts have to go somewhere. After that, the bike's top speed was only 28km/hr instead of the usual 40.
I took the motor apart; very mild charring, strong smell.

Bought a new motor from TNCscooters - this is the "250W" version 24V version, not the "450W" which came with the izip.
http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES

Here's the difference:
450W stock motor: top speed = 40kmhr; loud.
250W tncscooter motor: top speed 35kmhr, quiet.

The 250W looks mechanically identical from the outside, but needed different-sized screws to bolt it on (M5, I think). I haven't opened up the 250W up to see what make it 250W instead of 450W (thinner winding wire perhaps??).


Does anyone know where to get the 450W version? TNCscooters said they'd have them by august, but that came and went.

If you don't mind dealing with China directly, you could order from the source. www.unitemotor.com (http://www.unitemotor.com)

there's something on the top right of there front page that will change the text to english.

i thought these unite motors were all the exact same
including the 24 and 36v from tnc?
are those sold by tnc not unite?
if your in canada ct sells these bikes so they
have to sell the motors...but i have been waiting
for 90 days for replacement crank...

Wasp, do you know for a fact that CT sells replacement parts? If so, thats great news!!!

i will ask tomorrow as i'll be talking to my ct manager
i have been waiting 90 days for parts(crankset and arm )
when i kicked up a fuss last week saying i'm putting exessive
wear on my motor and bats(even though there yw's) they
extended my warrenty by 6 months...i'm fine with that
i'll ask about replacement motors and price tomorrow

According to the calculator that would require over 3 kw of OUTPUT power, even if it was 70% efficient at that level it would require almost 4 kw input and would generate 1 kw of heat. 48v at over 80 amps, not going to happen.
The motor can't do that and survive. It is a good little motor but it gets hot very hot on steep hills at 24 volts.
I would have your speedo checked as it is off by a fair margin, would it be possible they left it in kilometer mode?
How fast did the speedo show in the video?

That's sort of what I was thinking. It's hard to believe the speed, and the video shows it is slower than posted at 56 mph. More like 56kmh. I've got the schwinn with 48 volts and it's 45kmh for me. I can see karma doing a few more things, but 56mph...no impossible. I've also changed the gear on the bike that the motor links to by chain to 16 teeth instead of 20, so that gives the bike 15 to 20% more speed on top of the voltage increase. I think Karma is doing a great job, but I do think the speed must be in kmh, not mph... just my 2 cents.

i just pulled my izip controller out and apart for a look...
only 4 fet's and caps are 63v...x2
will post pic's tomorrow
now off to see what it will take...55v maybe
i run 42v with freewheel speed of 54kmh

to the post above this...your running 48v
is your controller stock? what's your volts at 48 or
4x12v bats charged like 54v?

peace wasp

i just pulled my izip controller out and apart for a look...
only 4 fet's and caps are 63v...x2
will post pic's tomorrow
now off to see what it will take...55v maybe
i run 42v with freewheel speed of 54kmh

to the post above this...your running 48v
is your controller stock? what's your volts at 48 or
4x12v bats charged like 54v?

peace wasp

Yes, the controller is stock. It's 4x12volt with 12ma. It's probably like you say, 54 because a 12 volt pack usually will charge to 26 or 27.

I'm wondering what I can do next, up the voltage more, not sure what the stock controller can take. Do you think it's 63 volts or near that?

Btw, today I got to register the schwinn as a moped, so I'm going to have to install signal lights and a brake light. I've got it insured for public liability and it's plated!! Anyone know where I'd buy those lights.
:thumb:

www.dealextreme.com and www.ledshoppe.com have some cheap lights shipped directly from Hong Kong (usually the shipping is included in the price). I seem to remember they had a few models with small turn signals.

just out of curiosity, why did you register an ebike has a moped?

Its happening at about 30 kmh on the flat ground.

Hmmmm

I'll have to check my derailer, maybe it wasn't adjusted properly at the store and I don't have my high gear.

Same here with the CT izip. I wonder if the US Walmart izip is geared differently? I was thinking of changing my front crank to a larger one later on. This maybe a project for the winter.

you can call them(dorel) direct to order parts
the motor is 114.40 the controller 41.60 cdn
plus shipping but they are waiting for a shipment
from overseas(lol)...the number is 800-387-2229
and our us friends can use this as well
the parts are shipped out of montreal for canada
unsure about american orders

peace wasp

thanks wasp, thats important information

www.dealextreme.com and www.ledshoppe.com have some cheap lights shipped directly from Hong Kong (usually the shipping is included in the price). I seem to remember they had a few models with small turn signals.

just out of curiosity, why did you register an ebike has a moped?

There's various classifications and the first one is the electric bike. If it's under xx kgs and goes under 35 km, it's exempt from plates. My izip at 48 volts goes around 45 to 53 depending on the charge of the sla batteries. One of my buddies buddies got a $1,200 ticket because he was going 60km on an ebike. He was ticketed for no plates and no insurance because he should have had the moped plate which is the next stage. It's complicated, but yes, I've got insurance and plates. The legislation here is slow to take off, I guess the government is it's usual self, head up the ar##hole...8-)

:)

Toyfountain, thanks for the info on the lights!! I'll check it out.

For brake light, you might be able to adapt a used trailer or rear car light.

Ok, today I took the chance and added another battery to the 48volts. I had 4 12volt 12ma in series and added another one to make it 60volts. The schwinn still has the original controller. Haven't touched that yet. When I first turned it on, it sort of did a miny surge forward, very small almost not noticeable. I might be at the limit of what the controller can handle and after 60 volts, the controller might fry, not sure. I rode fine though. I went from 42 km unassisted to 59km/hr or 40 mph. It felt good allthough I did go easy on the starts as this is where I'm told the worst things can happen due to the load on the motor. Once I got going, cars were wondering how I was following them...8-)

Stupid sla though, heavy as heck. I've got some nickel cadnium coming this week, so I don't know, I may be tempted to see if I can fry the controller with 84 volts.

I even went up a long hill, but pedalled hard to not burn the motor... Man, these bikes are a deal at the price... wish it had suspension. I might do like Karma and build myself a new one with crystallites 5303....that would kick ass.

you are on the edge now with the volts
i am suprised at the speed as well
it's time to switch to another ct product
the yw limn 21v 6ah limn bats 3 will give you 63v
i fit 2 in orig box and they only weigh 2.76lb each
any video of running that speed
you can also upgrade to a better controller(for cheap)
as these only have 2x63v caps and only 4 fets!!!
with colder weather and nearing the end of season
i'm also testing to failure as i get my full refund on my bike
even after 3400+hard km's this year
gotta love warrenties...

you are on the edge now with the volts
i am suprised at the speed as well
it's time to switch to another ct product
the yw limn 21v 6ah limn bats 3 will give you 63v
i fit 2 in orig box and they only weigh 2.76lb each
any video of running that speed
you can also upgrade to a better controller(for cheap)
as these only have 2x63v caps and only 4 fets!!!
with colder weather and nearing the end of season
i'm also testing to failure as i get my full refund on my bike
even after 3400+hard km's this year
gotta love warrenties...

Thanks for info wasp. You say a controller for cheap, where are they available. So 2x63v caps, does that mean past 63v it's fry time? Is 4 fets too little? I'm not sure what the fets do.
The Lithim batteries, where do you buy them, here I can't find them... Alberta. So you can fit the lithiums in the original 24v case the bike comes with?

Hehe, so you're bringing the bike back to ct after the season is over? 8-)

I think these bikes kick ass. If I can put a better controller, I'm sure the currie motor will take up to 100 volts. It's a tough little beast as long as you don't overheat it.

:thumb:

I wouldn't return mine even if they gave me a 200% refund:)

the batteries are from yardworks at canadian tire
they have a chainsaw,weedwacker,hedger,polesaw
just ask them...they say 20v on pack(really 21v fresh off charger)
yes 2 will fit orig box

http://i37.tinypic.com/2pqw8sp.jpg

Duracutter:
1) Can you give us more details of your buddy with the $1200 ebike speeding ticket? What province? How fast over the limit? Here in Ontario, seems to me that the only way these "that's a moped not an ebike" charges could stick is if the cops either a) took it for a ride and measured the unassisted top speed in excess of 32km/hr, or b) took the motor off, connected it to a dyno, and measured the shaft power in excess of 500W (I think 500W is the legal limit). I doubt they did either. Just going 60km/hr (posted speed limits aside) is not a crime because there are no legal restrictions on how fast you can pedal an ebike.

2) Can you post pics of the FETs, or post the markings on the fets? If so, we can probably figure out the partnumbers, and check the voltage ratings and on resistance.

i forgot to answer tncscooters has cheap controllers
and i'm sure more than 4 fets
http://i37.tinypic.com/2i6zax1.jpg
http://i33.tinypic.com/2myxmdy.jpg
that's the best i can do for a pic of the fets

Ok, now we know. I tried 72 volts, actually 77 on meter and it did fry the controller deader than a door nail.:crash:

Now, I'm going to replace this controller with a new one, I still have my other schwinn to drive around at 60v...:o

Thanks for the info on the batteries wasp. I'll go to ct in a 1/2 hr and i'll go online for the controller.

later...

[QUOTE=wasp;7473619]i forgot to answer tncscooters has cheap controllers
and i'm sure more than 4 fets

I've ordered the controller from tncscooters, nice people, real friendly..

60V Controller (Model HK-60)
I've ordered 2 of them, and it's likely I can over volt those too.
At the moment it's the highest voltage in controllers they have. They may get some higher ones soon, but I didn't want to wait. :)

I don't think I'll have a problem installing, it's got the throtle and 3 wires, and it's made to control a brush motor. Hope it's ok.

Thanks wasp. :thumb:

don't forget pics of fried controller
also could still be good for parts for
your other ones
also if you take it apart get a closeup
of fets and any numbers on them...
can't wait to hear how the new one works
did the old one blow upon powering up
or did you get a ride in?

don't forget pics of fried controller
also could still be good for parts for
your other ones
also if you take it apart get a closeup
of fets and any numbers on them...
can't wait to hear how the new one works
did the old one blow upon powering up
or did you get a ride in?

When I install the new one, I'll take pics. That will prolly take a week or so to get them in Canada Post from Tennesee. When I installed the battery I saw the back wheel spin slowly as I had it off the ground in case it was going to pull a Kasta on me. That's all there was, a brief slow wheel spin and nothing. The light on the throttle stayed lit, and very bright at that... and nothing, doesn't work with 24v , nothing.

I guess a fuse of some type just burnt and that was it. Once I get the new controller, I'm putting this bike up to about 80 or 90v. I also got the yardworks batteries. If you can let me know how you connected them, I'll start that. The lithiums are 3ma, is that sort of equal to the sla at 12ma..?

:)

[http://i36.tinypic.com/2k4mty.jpg
i peeled this from another forum...

being a bruched dc motor you can bypass
the controller to test if motor still works
just hook up the + and - of a bat to motor leads
can't do this on brushless w/phase wires

ouch 80v or 90v that poor currie motor is next to die:thumb:

been down that road if the bike starts to slow down and run irrattic its to late the motors toast:p
make i vid i would love to see it:thumb:

I think if you watch it and don't run too hot, it should work. I know it would be best to have a 750a or a 1000a motor...btw, do you know where a geared motor, meaning a gear is at the end of the motor driveshaft like the currie is available. tnc scooters, seems most of their motors with gears are out of stock.

So, today, I got the yardworks lithium... hehe... I bought out the stock in the city, about 10 and I got all the chargers and took the part that attaches to the battery and put them in series that way. It was a quick way without entering the battery with wires.

For some reason , 60v with sla, which is about 66 volts work good with the bike, but the 61v lithium ion makes the controller trip and turn off at about 1/4 throttle. I turn the on/off button and it lights up again. Just can't run it full on. Could it be lithium puts out too much watts? I'm sure its the controller. Anyone experience that one :twitchy:

It's so nice to not the have the damn weight... lithium is so light... can't wait till I put a new controller tomorrow night...:thumb:

being a bruched dc motor you can bypass
the controller to test if motor still works
just hook up the + and - of a bat to motor leads
can't do this on brushless w/phase wires

Thanks for the info wasp. I do think it's the controller though cause I never ran that bike, it's my second izip that I never ran yet.

btw, I got another izip today, the ct had one with the controller wire cut, so I got it for $250 and I'm gonna ditch the controller anyways, man these bikes are so cheap for what you get...:)

ouch 80v or 90v that poor currie motor is next to die:thumb:

been down that road if the bike starts to slow down and run irrattic its to late the motors toast:p
make i vid i would love to see it:thumb:

Hey karma, at what voltage did your currie motor die?

Are you still working on the currie or did you got to a crystallite project...I thought you're doing a new bike.. is the crystallite motor able to be sped up good???

The 5303 probably...right. In canada right now, Vancouver is out of 5303...do you know where else they'd have some?

tia

:)

So, today, I got the yardworks lithium... hehe... I bought out the stock in the city, about 10 and I got all the chargers and took the part that attaches to the battery and put them in series that way. It was a quick way without entering the battery with wires.



They are pretty much out of stock in my area too. Can you post a pic of your setup? I'd be curious to see how you did it.

They are pretty much out of stock in my area too. Can you post a pic of your setup? I'd be curious to see how you did it.

Sure can, I'll take some pics tonight when I've got some clear time.

I'm also getting a new controller tonight so I'll be testing the lithium 61v and why they triggered the original controller to trip. The sla 66v didn't trip the controller. Weird how different batteries react with I'm guessing could be different wattage output..? don't know. I wish there was a resident battery expert reading these threads that could enlighten us on the differences between sla and lithium ion.

later.

:)

well i hooked up a old 12v 12ah sla inline with my 2 yw limn bats
and i love it 50kmh and more torqe to boot...even ran it during daylight hours
the motor finally heated up after a round trip of my town and my neibours
all getting a try...all smiles
i will try a 3rd yw bat and let them rest a bit first as fresh off the charger
they are around 21v ...after sitting a bit they settle at 20v
i will upgrade controller as well because i'm running to close to the 63v caps
let us know how your new controller works out

They are pretty much out of stock in my area too. Can you post a pic of your setup? I'd be curious to see how you did it.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=81522&stc=1&d=1221793737
As you can see, this is the pack. It's not neat, it was put together quick, you know riding is the most important...gotta get out there..:rolleyes: I gutted the charger for each battery and took only the connection it slides into. I then broke the connection as it's set up to charge only, not run a tool so I had to widen it so it would go into the + and -. The charger is $29 so I thought is was ok to destroy it in the name of science.;) Once I'm done riding and testing it, which will be in the next few days once I can get a good controller, I take the duct tape off, and put the batteries in chargers, as I haven't gone into the battery to put wires.



http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=81523&stc=1&d=1221793788
This is part of the batteries I bought at ct.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=81524&stc=1&d=1221793830

This is the charger I took apart x 3. I used the connectors in which the battery slides in and chucked the rest in garbage bin.

well i hooked up a old 12v 12ah sla inline with my 2 yw limn bats
and i love it 50kmh and more torqe to boot...even ran it during daylight hours
the motor finally heated up after a round trip of my town and my neibours
all getting a try...all smiles
i will try a 3rd yw bat and let them rest a bit first as fresh off the charger
they are around 21v ...after sitting a bit they settle at 20v
i will upgrade controller as well because i'm running to close to the 63v caps
let us know how your new controller works out

It is fun riding these ebikes. Yeah, wasp, you're cutting it close. Only reason it didn't cut out is because the sla has less juice...than the lithium. 3 lithiums and you're original controller will cut out at about 1/4 throttle. I thought I had a good lead on a 60v controller from a guy who runs a ebike store out of his house. Turns out that when I got there tonight he was trying to pawn off a controller that had the same 63 volt limit as the izip one. I opened it up before I bought and I'm glad I did. Damn, a wasted trip.

I have to wait for the controllers from tncscooter. They should be in fri or mon.... I hate waiting, but what can you do??

just a reminder a formula P=VI (power, voltage, Current) and ohms laws is V=IR(voltage, Current,Resistance.

By substituting V for IR then P=(IR)I or I*I*R

Anyways, duracutter is completely correct, the easiest was to exceed the power rating of a part is to allow the current to go too high.

Also, please remember a stalled motor is a dc short, that draws alot of current.

so when you are overvoltaging a motor, try not to use it at low speeds ( or hills for that matter)

a good solution to regulate the current might be an autoresetting breaker, they use them in RV applications to keep the charge current down on the auxilary battery if it was deeply discharged. Most of the breaker I know of are 12V 30A. But how knows maybe they come in a wide asortment

Hi Duracutter... alot of your pictures are kinda fuzzy. I humbly present 10 second of advice:

1) when taking close-up shots, use the macro mode on the camera (the macro button usually has a little flower symbol). For ultra-closeups some cameras have "super macro" mode.

2) point the camera at the subject, gently press the shutter button HALF-WAY (camera will focus when pressed half-way), then gently press all the way.

3) always hold the camera STEADY.

Hi Duracutter... alot of your pictures are kinda fuzzy. I humbly present 10 second of advice:

1) when taking close-up shots, use the macro mode on the camera (the macro button usually has a little flower symbol). For ultra-closeups some cameras have "super macro" mode.

2) point the camera at the subject, gently press the shutter button HALF-WAY (camera will focus when pressed half-way), then gently press all the way.

3) always hold the camera STEADY.

hehe... thanks for the advice. Yeah, after a few glasses of you know what, I tried to look for the flower thingy, but couldn't find it...lol... Anyways, I thought I explained it ok. If you have any questions, let me know. It's not the best connection doing it the way I did, but it got me going that night.

Sometimes, I'll do anything it takes to just get a ride in, especially since I live in a northern climate and the season is drawing to an end. Winter is on it's way and it snowed only 200miles from where I live...

:)

so duracutter how's the new controller work?
any updates or pics?
how about some inside new controller pics?
i hope it's not covered in that brown crap...

so duracutter how's the new controller work?
any updates or pics?
how about some inside new controller pics?
i hope it's not covered in that brown crap...

It's not a resounding success, let's put it that way.

The Tncscooters controller is rated at 60-100amps. The original controller on the izip is 35a. It won't run, draws too much from the batteries. I don't understand why, could it be the high amps and the batteries can't do it. Not sure. I am trying to learn that and it takes a long time, the net has info, but it's hard to find without a lesson in electric engineering.lol... tncs controllers are for larger motors I think.

I then got a controller from crystallite, it's a brushed motor controller, 36 volts with same max on volts as izips original, 63v. I plugged it in, using Anderson ends and it didn't work out so well, wheel spun and 40a fuse in battery pack kept blowing right away. Checked all connections, all good. Seems that something is shorting and I'm not sure if high amps from other controller didn't fry the motor.

So... back to the drawind board...:(

did you look at the size of the motor's at tnc?
there for scooters...also it doesn't matter how many
amps a controller is ...it's what the motor will draw
so you got the 36v dc contoller from crystalite and
no joy? hmm i would look for a short somewhere
i run with no fuses at all because i kept popping them
40a fuse? try a slow blow fuse
i'll be back with more advice but am confused as to
why the 36v controller does'nt work....

dude what bats are you trying to use?
if you are trying the yw bats they will
shut down at more than 31 amps...
unless you pair them up
20v+20v+20v=60v at 31a max
now 3 more ran together would be
20v+20v+20v=60v at 62a max
gotta think in series and parallel

dude what bats are you trying to use?
if you are trying the yw bats they will
shut down at more than 31 amps...
unless you pair them up
20v+20v+20v=60v at 31a max
now 3 more ran together would be
20v+20v+20v=60v at 62a max
gotta think in series and parallel

I'm testing using the sla batts. I have 3 izips in various stages of mods. None working good so far, but I tried the 36v brushed controller with another Izip and I think I damaged the controller when I used it on the bike that had the 60amp controller on it.
When I tried the controller on the fresh izip it ran fine, but full throttle like something fried inside. That was after I ran it on the damaged currie motor from overamperage.

Now the controller will be replaced by my reseller, so he's taking care of me pretty good. I was told that if I use a controller higher than 35amps, I'm over amping the little currie motor and it could fry the internal wires within seconds. So, I know now, to watch the amps and I found out a 450watt motor will only take about 35amps. So, yes the controllers from tnc scooters are for much larger motors and I may use them much later if I mod an electric scooter... I didn't pay that much for them so I'll put them on the shelf and move on.

I do have a crystallite 5304 front wheel hub coming in in the next 2 days with a 36volt controller... wanted a 72volt but not available. That will be fun, but I'll have to watch how I apply the torque arm to to the front fork, they tend to destroy front forks if you don't watch it.

Looks like I'll be modding all winter... damn winter, it's coming. I've gone a week now without any electric bike, so I'm riding regular, which is ok, but I can't go too far, wheels are mountain bike, lots of friction...and after work,,,blah... I miss the electric. Hopefully within a few days, I'll be going.

I'll probably have the izip going within a week with a new controller.

Anyone know of a good 48v or 72v controller for bushed motor with 35a max.... that would be good for the izip...:p

:)

well i've talked and read on other forums and...
they have yet to see this motor pull more than
18-19amps uphill...so i think it could be the throttle?
my ideal for the winter is moving the motor...
to infront of contoller and running through the gears...
i will use a fresh motor and add some more yw bats
and be ready for the misses in spring...after i test it
i seen this mod on youtube on the fs kranked bike at ct
they then used a 1000w currie motor...no gear reduction
and it was freaking flying...rear reflector flew off
i don't need any more top end(ya right) but would love
the bottom end improvement...could even resprocket
the geared currie for greater bottomend and keep top
speed at 50ish...like the rubbernecking by cars when i stay
on there 6...lol
anyways keep us posted
btw the kranked fs alum mb has dual disk brakes and 21sp
a vertical rear shock (so lots of room in triangle) all for 299
i'm buying one for modding...right before they have to put
them away for winter...they will give me a deal..always do

nice now that's a upgrade:thumb: with the right controller and bats that motor should put you in orbit:D

im holding out for ebikes.ca should be available Nov. 2008. im keeping the power in the rear with the gear.

i have a used brushed controller i used for testing that works great if your interested im asking $40 plus shipping. see pic also works great at 48v

cheers

hey karma if duracutter doesn't want it i will grab it just let me no...