Bicycle Mechanics - breaking chain without chain tool

I'm trying to break my chain to add a master link.

I'd hate to buy a chain tool just to add a 75c link, but I can't manage to break the chain. I tried hammering out the pin with a small screwdriver, but I couldn't get it to budge. Then I tried wedging open a pair of outer links with some pliers, but I ended up snapping the pliers.

Is there any way to break a chain without a chain tool (it's okay if the link gets damaged...I'm replacing it)?

Invest in a $5 chain tool. You'll be glad you did. :)

You are going to end up ruining a chain to save a few dollars on the tool. Nashbar has one for $5. Even if you can get the pin out, I would not be inclined to ride a chain that I went at with a screw driver and a hammer.

Good heavens! You'd "hate to buy a chain tool"? You'll have earned then whatever the result of your innovative thriftyness.

Already cost you a pair of pliers.

I don't buy this. I think this is troll town.

I somehow doubt someone with 500+ posts is trolling, however pathetic this post is. Buy a chain tool. You need to take the chain off to clean it anyway. I've pressed a pin that was completely removed from a chain into a chain before so as to not buy a new chain, but that only required a bench vice and some duct tape. Removing the pin will be much harder, although a crafty person could certainly rig something up with a bench vice. But by the time he's done that, he has essentially created a chain tool and wasted more than enough time to warrant buying a chain tool.

Well, I got it out. What ended up working was taking two flat head screwdrivers, hammering them both between outer links and then twisting them in opposite directions.

If the chain is screwed then I'll just buy a new one for about the same price as a chain tool. Aftermarket chains almost always come with master links anyway, so I shouldn't need a chain tool after this.


The problem I have now is that the master link has some widthwise play to it. Not sure why. I measured the chain where I inserted the master link and it isn't warped at all. 1/8" on the nose. Does anyone know if KMC master links are supposed to have widthwise play?

invest on the 5 dollar caintool, is way better than poking holes on ur fingers with your nail and hammer.

also, you can ways use it to remove your chain, and then soak it in oil.. @ least thats what id o to lube my chain.

Well, I got it out. What ended up working was taking two flat head screwdrivers, hammering them both between outer links and then twisting them in opposite directions.

If the chain is screwed then I'll just buy a new one for about the same price as a chain tool. Aftermarket chains almost always come with master links anyway, so I shouldn't need a chain tool after this.


The problem I have now is that the master link has some widthwise play to it. Not sure why. I measured the chain where I inserted the master link and it isn't warped at all. 1/8" on the nose. Does anyone know if KMC master links are supposed to have widthwise play?

Dude, are you serious? When you buy a new chain you will still have to cut it to fit your bike. That is going to require a chain tool. Masterlinks just make it easier to take the chain off the bike for cleaning. If you really used two screw drivers to pry the plates apart, make sure you carry a cell phone when you ride. You are going to need a lift home at some point.

Considering what you did to your chain, you need to toss it and buy a new one, unless you like catastrophic failures that lead to painful crashes.

Can anyone tell me how to measure the width of my chain? The LBS told me it was a 1/8" chain and they gave me a 1/8" master link, but I don't think that's right because the 1/8" master link is way too big. Seems like I could fit an extra plate in there.

On the chain, the width of the roller is 1/8", but the width of the inner plates is 3/16". So does that make my chain 1/8" width or 3/16" width? The master link measures about 1/4" from plate to plate. Is that right for a 1/8" master link?

Either the master link is labeled with the wrong width or the LBS told me the wrong size.

P.S. Thanks for all the advice everyone, but I'm not that worried about catastrophic failure. I was surprised at how strong the chain is (it broke my pliers!) and the only parts that were damaged were removed. I'll be replacing the rear sprocket and chainring soon anyway (and along with them, the chain), but first I needed a chain with a master link to try out the paraffin wax method of lubrication. The sprocket/chainring combination I choose will depend on how the paraffin wax performs.

P.P.S. I would have just bought a chaintool, but I have a bike with a 1/4" pitch chain and I want to make sure the chain tool I buy can handle it. At present, I don't have time to find out what kind of a chaintool I need to handle chains of different pitch length. So I decided to hold off on my chain tool purchase.

Can anyone tell me how to measure the width of my chain? The LBS told me it was a 1/8" chain and they gave me a 1/8" master link, but I don't think that's right because the 1/8" master link is way too big. Seems like I could fit an extra plate in there.

On the chain, the width of the roller is 1/8", but the width of the inner plates is 3/16". So does that make my chain 1/8" width or 3/16" width? The master link measures about 1/4" from plate to plate. Is that right for a 1/8" master link?

Either the master link is labeled with the wrong width or the LBS told me the wrong size.

P.S. Thanks for all the advice everyone, but I'm not that worried about catastrophic failure. I was surprised at how strong the chain is (it broke my pliers!) and the only parts that were damaged were removed. I'll be replacing the rear sprocket and chainring soon anyway (and along with them, the chain), but first I needed a chain with a master link to try out the paraffin wax method of lubrication. The sprocket/chainring combination I choose will depend on how the paraffin wax performs.

P.P.S. I would have just bought a chaintool, but I have a bike with a 1/4" pitch chain and I want to make sure the chain tool I buy can handle it. At present, I don't have time to find out what kind of a chaintool I need to handle chains of different pitch length. So I decided to hold off on my chain tool purchase.


I think any reply, given the nature of your posts, would only tend to promote stupidity.

If the chain is screwed then I'll just buy a new one for about the same price as a chain tool. Aftermarket chains almost always come with master links anyway, so I shouldn't need a chain tool after this.

Guess what? Since bikes require differing chain lengths, new chains come long and have to be shortened. You're still going to need the chain tool.

You should just take your bike to a shop for help since it appears all your tools & parts will either be broken or lost.

A chain tool is just one of those things you need if you are going to do anything with a chain. No two ways about it, unless you like breaking tools and messing up your chain.

I think any reply, given the nature of your posts, would only tend to promote stupidity.

As opposed to promoting being a dickhead like you're doing right now?


You should just take your bike to a shop for help since it appears all your tools & parts will either be broken or lost.

No thanks. The job is already done and I've yet to find a bike shop that knows more about bikes than me, which is pretty bad considering the fact that I don't know much at all.

One shop I went to told me you can only shift an internal hub while pedaling. Another gave me this master link in a bag labeled 1/2"x1/8", but I'm almost certain it's not 1/8". However, I'd like to know how to determine what size this link really is so that:
1. They believe me when I tell them it's the wrong size.
2. I can check that the next one they give me is the right size before I leave the store.

No thanks. The job is already done and I've yet to find a bike shop that knows more about bikes than me, which is pretty bad considering the fact that I don't know much at all.

One shop I went to told me you can only shift an internal hub while pedaling. Another gave me this master link in a bag labeled 1/2"x1/8", but I'm almost certain it's not 1/8". However, I'd like to know how to determine what size this link really is so that:
1. They believe me when I tell them it's the wrong size.
2. I can check that the next one they give me is the right size before I leave the store.

Dude...seriously. You're going to get yourself killed. Find a good shop and listen when people tell you that attacking critical parts with blunt objects is a Really Bad Idea. Not to mention which, you've broken a tool that costs more than $5 and wasted hours of your time to save....$5. That's some serious false economy.

As for your master link conundrum... Hint: Are you measuring the width of the link in the right place?

As for your master link conundrum... Hint: Are you measuring the width of the link in the right place?
That's the question I asked. Where is the link to be measured?

Like I said, on the chain the width of the roller (which is the same as the distance between the inside surfaces of the inner plates) is about 1/8". The distance between the outside surfaces of the inner plates (which is the same as the distance between the inside surfaces of the outer plates) is about 3/16". If the master link fit then the distance between the inside surfaces of the two outer plates (which are the only plates) of the master link would be about 3/16", but it's closer to 1/4".

As far as I can tell, these are all the possible width measurements. So the question is, what is "the width" of the chain and what is "the width" of the master link? From what I understand "the width" of the chain is the width of the roller, which is 1/8". However, I'm not sure if that is correct. Also, does the fact that the master link is about 1/16" too large mean that "the width" of the master link is 1/16" more than the width of the chain (ie 3/16" instead of 1/8") or does it mean that the master link is designed for a chain with thicker inner plates? Both the chain and the master link are KMC.

The pliers broke because they were cheap ones. This guys approsch has cheap written all over it. Unfortunately, cheapness is a widespread disease. Whining about money is even more ppopular. Go figure. bk

The pliers broke because they were cheap ones. This guys approsch has cheap written all over it. Unfortunately, cheapness is a widespread disease. Whining about money is even more ppopular. Go figure. bk
Thanks for the social commentary. Now please excuse me while I go lay down a couple hundred dollars on a cycling specific outfit to ride to a cycling specific store to buy a cycling specific chain tool so I can ensure a 100% unadulterated cycling experience. :rolleyes:

Well, I am now changing my vote to troll.

On the off chance that you are serious, the issue is not one of having to spend hundreds of dollars to act the part of a "cyclist". The issue is that you have done something to save $5 that has very likely compromised the chain. At best this could mean a long walk home. At worst it could result in fairly serious injury. If you value your teeth, go buy a new chain and a proper chain tool. Get one with a masterlink, cut it size and the install it. If you don't care to hear this, simply stop asking questions.

Best of luck.

A few years ago Bicycling magazine (that bastion of tech tips!) had a small bit on roadside fixes. They showed an illustration of breaking the chain by using the rear skewer. IIRC, they placed the chain between the dropout and the skewer and then used the quick release to push the pin out.

Beyond my abilities and probably not best for the chain in general, but I guess it could be done.

A few years ago Bicycling magazine (that bastion of tech tips!) had a small bit on roadside fixes. They showed an illustration of breaking the chain by using the rear skewer. IIRC, they placed the chain between the dropout and the skewer and then used the quick release to push the pin out.

Beyond my abilities and probably not best for the chain in general, but I guess it could be done.
Oh noes! Bicycling Magazine is teh troll!!1 :p

In all seriousness, thanks for the tip. I'll have to try that some time.


On the off chance that you are serious, the issue is not one of having to spend hundreds of dollars to act the part of a "cyclist". The issue is that you have done something to save $5 that has very likely compromised the chain. At best this could mean a long walk home. At worst it could result in fairly serious injury. If you value your teeth, go buy a new chain and a proper chain tool. Get one with a masterlink, cut it size and the install it. If you don't care to hear this, simply stop asking questions.
Your input on the integrity of my chain is duly noted. Can we move on?

Why should I stop asking questions just because I don't want to replace my chain, just to test out a configuration for a few weeks before I replace it again? Why do so many of you feel the need to keep telling me about the integrity of my chain when the only question I'm asking at this point is about how to measure chain width?

That's the question I asked. Where is the link to be measured?

Like I said, on the chain the width of the roller (which is the same as the distance between the inside surfaces of the inner plates) is about 1/8". The distance between the outside surfaces of the inner plates (which is the same as the distance between the inside surfaces of the outer plates) is about 3/16". If the master link fit then the distance between the inside surfaces of the two outer plates (which are the only plates) of the master link would be about 3/16", but it's closer to 1/4".

As far as I can tell, these are all the possible width measurements. So the question is, what is "the width" of the chain and what is "the width" of the master link? From what I understand "the width" of the chain is the width of the roller, which is 1/8". However, I'm not sure if that is correct. Also, does the fact that the master link is about 1/16" too large mean that "the width" of the master link is 1/16" more than the width of the chain (ie 3/16" instead of 1/8") or does it mean that the master link is designed for a chain with thicker inner plates? Both the chain and the master link are KMC.

Here's what you do:

Method A:
1) Take bike to shop.
2) Do not tell bike shop what you think you need.
3) Let bike shop help you.
4) Ask to watch while mechanic works.
5) Learn.

Method B:
1) Search google for proper chain widths.
2) Find useful site: http://www.bikewebsite.com/chain.htm
3) Read information: "Derailleur-equipped bikes have 3/32" bike chains, usually with no master link. All the links are the same. For these chains you need a chain tool, available for under ten dollars at bicycle shops. "
4) Purchase correct parts
5) Install according to instructions

Note that you probably in fact do not have a 1/8 chain unless you're riding a single speed. Measure from the insides of the plates.

To respond to another of your posts: yes, you SHOULD be worried about catastrophic failure. Seriously, do you not think that the collected wisdom of people who have had these things happen is worth listening to? Chains wear, and if you've placed stress on it (which you probably have), there's a good chance a pin can eventually shear at a weak point. Note that under pedaling, the load is applied differently than you did with your pliers. Chains do in fact break.

To sum up, listen to the many people who know much more about bikes than you do, all of whom are basically giving the same advice. Find a good shop, and let them do the work. You'll live longer, and keep more of your original teeth.

Here's what you do:

Method A:
1) Take bike to shop.
2) Do not tell bike shop what you think you need.
3) Let bike shop help you.
4) Ask to watch while mechanic works.
5) Learn.
Yeah, like I'm gonna let the guy who thinks you should shift internal hubs while pedaling touch my bike, much less pay him to do it.


Method B:
1) Search google for proper chain widths.
2) Find useful site: http://www.bikewebsite.com/chain.htm
3) Read information: "Derailleur-equipped bikes have 3/32" bike chains, usually with no master link. All the links are the same. For these chains you need a chain tool, available for under ten dollars at bicycle shops. "
4) Purchase correct parts
5) Install according to instructions

Note that you probably in fact do not have a 1/8 chain unless you're riding a single speed. Measure from the insides of the plates.
Usually and probably doesn't make the link fit. If I want to purchase correct parts then I need to know what size I need, which is why I'm asking for your help in determining the correct part.

Now, when you say to measure from the inside of the plates. Is that the inside of the inner plates or the inside of the outer plates? My chain measures 1/8" between the inside of the inner plates, which I believe is "the width" of the chain.

However the master link is only a pair of outer plates. So how do I measure the width of the master link? The label the LBS put on the package says 1/8" width. So as best as I can tell, it should fit my chain, but it doesn't. Is that because it's not really a 1/8" link or for another reason?

You need to buy this:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean/index.html

You need to buy this:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean/index.html

Come on, this guy already has enough of a death wish, he'll probably actually do it.

I somehow doubt someone with 500+ posts is trolling, however pathetic this post is.
...




Doesn't mean they're *good* posts, though. Witness this example of doing things the hard way: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=292616

Let's just hope the OP doesn't need dental work or an appendectomy. We'd be seeing posts like this: "What's the best way to tie off a major artery without having to waste money on those stupid stitches things?"

Some people just don't love tools enough. :)

I think any reply, given the nature of your posts, would only tend to promote stupidity.
+1

+2

+3

... ad infinitum

Sheldon's link is awesome. I can't believe I've missed that - I feel like I've read the whole site.

Can't bear to spend money on a saddle? Some can cost over $300!!

Try the Real MAN® (http://sheldonbrown.com/real-man.html) Saddle!

"The Real MAN ® saddle KICKS BUTT!"

OP, sell your bike before you hurt yourself or others.

I'd appreciate if all you jerks would stop trolling my thread.

I asked a simple question about removing a chain without a chain tool followed by a simple question about selecting the right replacement part. The fact that all but one (thank you CyLowe97) of the responses I got were trolls is absolutely devastating. How could this forum possibly be filled with so many jerks? :(

Here's the deal. We're all 98% nice, but you're stupid enough to bring out that 2%.

DScott, but my point was that he wasn't trolling, and I was right about that.

Here's the deal. We're all 98% nice, but you're stupid enough to bring out that 2%.

No, you're just jerks. You have no idea what I'm doing with my bike or why I'm disassembling my chain and, therefore, you have absolutely no basis to call me stupid apart from your own ignorance.

DScott, but my point was that he wasn't trolling, and I was right about that.

I know, he's serious! :eek:

No, you're just jerks. You have no idea what I'm doing with my bike or why I'm disassembling my chain and, therefore, you have absolutely no basis to call me stupid apart from your own ignorance.

Why you're right of course. We're the dummies because we couldn't understand your simple and precise and totally-logical original question much-less your brilliantly graphic follow-up clarifications.

Back to BigWheels for us.

Wow... it's almost like Merton's back! :rolleyes:

Wow... it's almost like Merton's back! :rolleyes:
No MERTON'S smart enough to use a chain tool. That's not saying much though.

No, you're just jerks. You have no idea what I'm doing with my bike or why I'm disassembling my chain

So are you saying there is a context in which breaking a chain by hammering on it makes sense? Then please, explain that context. See your question as asked was answered many times in the only reasonable fashion: buy a freaking chain tool. It's not our fault you didn't tell us you were stranded in Mongolia with only some pliers, a hammer and some screwdrivers- and an internet connection- so therefore buying a chain tool isn't practical. Oh yeah, there's also an lbs in this mongolian desert you are stranded in.


therefore, you have absolutely no basis to call me stupid apart from your own ignorance.

No, the basis for calling you stupid- which I don't think anyone has done outright- is your ignorant, indignant pigheadedness regarding the subject of chain-breaking. How do you break a chain without a chain tool? You don't. I mean, you can, but you shouldn't, it makes no sense to, and there's no reason to save being stranded somewhere and having no other choice. That's your answer, and it's the correct answer, and you getting all twisted out of shape because you don't like it is stupid.

As for the measuring your chain question, I think you may be blind and dictating your posts with the help of some speech to text program, because you don't even seem to be able to describe your problem, or the link, or your chain, or your sorroundings. It doesn't fit it doesn't fit it doesn't fit it doesn't fit... and you expect people to be able to help you, or even want to help you.

Some advice: explain yourself, be detailed about your problem, or question, or what it is you desire and perhaps you will get the response you're looking for. And don't expect people to not point out how stupid something is- like banging on a chain with a hammer- if it is indeed stupid.

There's elitist snobbery and then there's banging on a chain with a hammer is stupid. Not the same thing.

So are you saying there is a context in which breaking a chain by hammering on it makes sense? Then please, explain that context. See your question as asked was answered many times in the only reasonable fashion: buy a freaking chain tool. It's not our fault you didn't tell us you were stranded in Mongolia with only some pliers, a hammer and some screwdrivers- and an internet connection- so therefore buying a chain tool isn't practical. Oh yeah, there's also an lbs in this mongolian desert you are stranded in.
There are plenty of contexts when it makes sense. One being if you're going to discard the chain. At the other extreme (where it would definitely be worthwhile to buy a chain tool) is if you're going to keep using the chain. Somewhere in between the two is a scenario which might go one way or the other, such as if you're only going to ride a mile or two before discarding the chain. That's my scenario and there are many reasons why the scales are tipped towards not buying the tool. First of all, an affordable chain tool wasn't immediately available to me. The chain tools at the LBS were over priced and by the time nashbar delivered an affordable one I would be ready for a new chain (which I might have the LBS shorten for me, or simply have them put it on). Second of all, I'm going to need a chain tool for my other bike, but a cheap $5 chain tool probably won't suffice since my other bike has a 1/4" pitch chain. Buying a chain tool for each bike is wasteful. I'd rather buy one chain tool that I can use for all my bikes.

Not that I have to justify my reasons for not wanting to buy a chain tool. Quite frankly, it's none of your god damn business and if there weren't so many *******s around here then I wouldn't have to justify my purchases to be treated with a little common decency. Unfortunately, that's not the world we live in.


No, the basis for calling you stupid- which I don't think anyone has done outright- is your ignorant, indignant pigheadedness regarding the subject of chain-breaking. How do you break a chain without a chain tool? You don't. I mean, you can, but you shouldn't, it makes no sense to, and there's no reason to save being stranded somewhere and having no other choice. That's your answer, and it's the correct answer, and you getting all twisted out of shape because you don't like it is stupid.
No, that's not the correct answer. Different people have different needs. Just because you assume that everyone has the same needs as you that doesn't make it correct.


As for the measuring your chain question, I think you may be blind and dictating your posts with the help of some speech to text program, because you don't even seem to be able to describe your problem, or the link, or your chain, or your sorroundings. It doesn't fit it doesn't fit it doesn't fit it doesn't fit... and you expect people to be able to help you, or even want to help you.
I gave very precise measurements of every widthwise feature there is. I don't see how anyone could possibly describe it any better than that. What, may I ask, is my description lacking?

...and I don't expect people to be able to or want to help me. What I expect is a modicum of decency and respect, but even that is apparently too much to ask.


Some advice: explain yourself, be detailed about your problem, or question, or what it is you desire and perhaps you will get the response you're looking for.
That's exactly what I've done from the start. It doesn't get any clearer than "How do you break a chain without a chain tool." My motivations for not wanting to use a chain tool are completely irrelevant and, in my opinion, airing them would only add unecessary complication to my very simple question.


And don't expect people to not point out how stupid something is- like banging on a chain with a hammer- if it is indeed stupid.
I don't expect people not to point out things which are stupid. What I do expect is for people to have enough decency not to assume that they know things which they know nothing about and subsequently call me stupid based as a result of those assumptions.


There's elitist snobbery and then there's banging on a chain with a hammer is stupid. Not the same thing.
I guess that depends on the situation and regarding my situation, neither you nor anyone else in this forum have a clue.

No, you're just jerks. You have no idea what I'm doing with my bike or why I'm disassembling my chain and, therefore, you have absolutely no basis to call me stupid apart from your own ignorance.

No, *you* have no idea what you're doing with your bike. I'm a novice, but there are people here who have decades of experience riding. They most certainly have a basis to tell you that you don't know what you're doing.

You seem to be one of those people who refuses to take advice until something blows up in your face. As such, I see a dentist in your future.

As such, I see a dentist in your future.

He already owns a pair of pliers...:lol:

At least twice now - maybe more - the OP has mentioned having another chain with a 1/4-inch pitch as one of his reasons for not being willing to buy a chain tool. With "pitch" being the dimension between the teeth of the chainwheels and cogs I'd say that a chainring with a 1/4-inch pitch would look like a Finish-Fine-Crosscut saw blade.

But I forgot, I'm one of the dummies.

I guess that depends on the situation and regarding my situation, neither you nor anyone else in this forum have a clue.

Right. Because you didn't explain yourself.

What, do you think we're customer service and you're the customer?

Ithinkthisthreadisoverloadingtheserver.

"How do you get a spark plug out of a car with a hammer?"


What? Don't try to get a sparkplug out with a hammer, you'll damage your engine!


"I don't have a socket wrench and I just want to get this spark plug out. I'd hate to buy a whole wrench just to get a spark plug out I'm going to throw away anyway."


Taking a hammer to your sparkplug is a stupid thing to do. You're going to damage something.


"I got it to work with an adze. I just hacked on one side till it cracked enough to get an ice pick in there."


I wouldn't drive that car now. You may have compromised something and it could be unsafe to drive.


"Ooooooh. Look at me! I own a masarati and drive in beverly hills. Watch me put on my driving socks. Hey, How do you measure a spark plug. The guy at the garage said 12mm, but which part is 12mm? I've measured every part."


Good lord that was a dumb thing to do. Buy a socket wrench. They cost $10. Take your car to a mechanic, please.


"I already got it out. Geeeeez. Now somebody tell me what's 12mm? It doesn't fit, I've been hammering on it all day, so I don't know what's 12mm."


This is bizarre and kind of sad.


"Someone tell me how to measure a spark plug! You're all jerks!"


You don't get spark plugs out with hammers. We're making fun of you because you refuse to understand why.


"You're all evil! Like Satan!"


You are a strange fellow. I can't imagine what's going on in your head.


"Hey, the engine is on a pedestal in the Baltimore museum of art. I'm a world-famous installation artist and I needed to get the plug out in order to insert a hot dog. All the hardware stores in the city are closed and I'm surrounded by rabid dogs, so therefore my only tools are a hammer, an adze and an ice pick. Then the muse struck me and I decided to put a different colored spark plug in. I just asked a simple question- how do you get a spark plug out with a hammer- I shouldn't have to explain myself. You don't know anything about me nor my circumstances so therefore you should just go out of your way to answer my question as I asked it because... because I am a human being you jerks!"


Whoa.

"How do you get a spark plug out of a car with a hammer?"


<edited for length>
:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao: A fair assessment of the thread

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao: A fair assessment of the thread

Although it's probably fair to say we are not without some blame for the train wreck that ensued..

;)

No, *you* have no idea what you're doing with your bike. I'm a novice, but there are people here who have decades of experience riding. They most certainly have a basis to tell you that you don't know what you're doing.
No. Riding experience doesn't magically give them insight into my life. For all they know I might be too poor to buy a chain tool. All the riding experience in the world won't give you that kind of information.


You seem to be one of those people who refuses to take advice until something blows up in your face. As such, I see a dentist in your future.
There you go again, making assumptions about me when you don't know anything about me.


At least twice now - maybe more - the OP has mentioned having another chain with a 1/4-inch pitch as one of his reasons for not being willing to buy a chain tool. With "pitch" being the dimension between the teeth of the chainwheels and cogs I'd say that a chainring with a 1/4-inch pitch would look like a Finish-Fine-Crosscut saw blade.

But I forgot, I'm one of the dummies.
I couldn't have said it better myself. The sad part is you're so arrogant that you think my chain is 1/2" pitch, even after I told you (twice) that it's 1/4" pitch. Get a clue.


Right. Because you didn't explain yourself.
I explained myself. I explained that I wanted to remove my chain without a chain tool, which should be enough...unless, of course, I'm dealing with some ******* who needs some kind of justification to hold a polite conversation.


What, do you think we're customer service and you're the customer?
No. I think we're all human beings and as such we should all have enough couth to refrain from making rude and insulting comments on foolish and unfounded assumptions.


:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao: A fair assessment of the thread
:roflmao: It is a fair assessment, but I still think that there's been a lot of uncalled for rudeness in this thread.



BTW, I went to the bike co-op today and they told me that I shouldn't worry about the extra play in the master link. I know I already asked several times in this thread, but does anyone know if this kind of play is normal for a master link? I'm having a hard time believing that the link is the right size. I mean, there's really a lot of play (1/16" on a 1/8" width chain) and I see a lot of 3/16" width master links floating around the discount internet shops.