Mountain Biking - Stem installation

So, I decided against the Diabolus. Instead, I purchased the Salsa Moto Ace:

http://www.salsacycles.com/images/Moto-Ace-Stem-318.jpg

Why? Probably because I got tired of debating which one to buy so I grabbed the one that appealed most to me. Besides, the sales rep was very nice and informative about it.

Anyway, heres my question. The stack height (if thats the right term to use) is higher than the stock one I had. So, I had to remove one of the two spacers that were on the steerer tube. When I put the new stem on, the cap that screws on top of the steerer tube is now farther away from the steerer tube. Its only about 1 1/16 of an inch. I called the shop and they said as long as the top of the steerer tube doesnt pass below the top clamping screw (not the handlebar clamp screw, the steerer tube ones) then Ill be okay.

Is that true?

Am I making any sense?

Good job with going with the Salsa. I think what you're saying is that the cap is higher above the steerer tube than it was before? If thats the case it's fine as long as you have some clamping force on the steerer tube like the LBS said

Okay good. One more question, does it matter what bolt I tighten first? Like should I tighten the cap screw first then the two steerer tube screws second? Vice versa?

If I understand your question correctly, tigten the cap first. Since if you tighten the screws on the stem that tighten it to the steerer tube first the cap won't be able to push down on the stem to make the headset nice and secure.

Thanks Kev!

One other thing: after you ride for a bit, you will want to check the preload. Actually you should check it periodically anyways. You can do this by grabbing the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth. If you see (I use feel too) the headset moving back and forth, you probably need to add more preload. Do this in the same manner as you used to install the stem. Loosen the steerer clamp pinchbolts and give the top bolt a 1/8 turn. Tighten the steerer clamp and check the preload again. Keep doing this until the headset isn't rocking back and forth anymore. You also want to lift the front wheel up off the ground and make sure that it can flop from side to side without sticking to assure yourself that you didn't add too much preload.

You can get different width spacers. I'm using one right now that is only like 1/16" thick. I removed the other ones. That'll drop the stem even further onto the steerer tube.

Also, as mentioned. Screw down the top cap screw first. This tightens up the headset. Get it to the point where there is a wee bit of stiction as you turn the front wheel, then back it off a 1/4 turn. Then tighten the steerer clamp. Get it snug, but don't overtighten. You could ovalize the steerer tube (if aluminum)

Also, don't over-tighten anything on your bike. Either set it to the recommended torque, or for some things to the point where it doesn't move, but will move if forced. That way, in the event of a crash, it will move in lieu of breaking off! e.g. stems, seatposts, brake levers and shifters. Tight enough not to move, but will if forced.

pedals, cranks, bottom brackets and the faceplate on the stem tighten to recommended torque (by manufactuer)

I made the mistake of tightening the cap screw very tight then the tube clamp screws. I loosened the cap screw a bit and now I have looser steering like I did before. I dont like it when the steering feels tight, feels like I have no control over the bike.

Is stiction a real word? :D