Road Cycling - Bike Sizing

Ok, I'm finally about to buy my first road bike. (Assuming I get clearance from my doctor tomorrow.) I've pretty much narrowed my choice down to the Specialized Allez Elite Cr-Mo or the Comp Cr-Mo. I'm a big guy --- about 250 lbs and am planning on using the bike to ride my first century.

I've been to a couple of different bike stores, and it seems like every bike store has there own sizing method. I've been sized at anything from a 52 up to a 58!!! (On the same bike.)

On the 58, I have negative standover. Falling on the top tube could be very painful. But, when I have my hands on the hoods, the bars are right in line with the hubs. It feels comfortable riding the bike on test rides.

On the 54, my standover is good, but the hub and bar are not in-line. Yes, I know I can get a different stem, but will this bike be too small? It feels a little cramped on the bike.

What would be the best size? I'm thinking of splitting the difference and getting the 56. Going custom is not going to work right now. I Have tried other bikes and have had similar problems.

Is it worth laying out the extra money for the comp? When riding the two bikes, I liked the feel of the comp better than the elite. Definately liked the wheelset better on the comp. The Ultegra group seemed much smoother shifting compared to the 105 on the elite. But, I also noticed some differences on how smoothly different bikes (all with 105s) shifted. Could this have just been a tuning issue?

Thanks

It may be that you have a long torso and short legs. That would account for you feeling OK with the reach of a bike which is too big for your legs. It sounds like shops are trying to palm you off with the sizes they have in stock. Make sure you use a bike shop that is not ripping you off.
You may be better off with the geometry of another brand, ie a longer bike. Lemond bike, for instance, tend to be a bit longer. Other posters can probably recomend other "long" brands, or you could trawl through the geometry specs on various websites.
When comparing different makes, bear in mind that "frame size " is measured from the centre of the bottom bracket (which varies in height) to either the top or center of te top tube, or to some virtual top tube. Dont assume that all bikes the same size have the same standover.

Dont fret about the hub being hidden by the bars, that is not an indicator of good fit for everyone. You should be able to swap the stem for a longer one if needed.

Pay a lot of attention to the virtual top tube length, and to the stem length. Go buy a cheap tape measure which has metric on it so you can compare what you see on the floor to what the manufacturers publish. I saw a Lemond 55 sitting next to a 56 Specialized was bigger in every dimension than the specialized.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm check out this site. You should be able to find the size you need. If they are telling you need a 52-58, I would say that you are around 6'. I would agree with MichaelW they want you buy the one on the floor.

The stores that had the 58 and 52 just happened to be the one bike with the characteristics I was looking for in the shop. I guess the power of selling the bike on the floor can win out over selling the right back.

I went back to a couple of the local bike shops on my way home from work. I started at the shop I know sells Lemonds and decidedI didn't want to buy any cycles from them.

I then went back to the bike store with the Specialized bike. They would have to order thebike I wanted anyway, so they have no incentive to try to sell the bike on the shelf. They spent over an hour with me making measurements and going over why the 56 would be the proper size (on the specialized) for me.

I'm going to be down in LA tomorrow, so I am going to try to get to some bike stores there after I'm done with some other business.

You could look at a larger bike with a "compact" geometry as well.
I fit the same way, short legs, long torso.
My fit calcs said I should be on a 53cm. I'm 5-10 1/2". I rode a 54 and felt slightly cramped, even though the "standover" was a little high.
My new bike is a 55cm, and more comfortable than the 54. (very similar geometry on both bikes)
I think the compact is probably the most suitable for folks built like us.

In the absence of the perfect size, buy top tube length. You can adjust the seat up and down but you can only adjust the stem out so far without dangling your weight precariously out past the front axle and messing up the handling. In addition, if you buy to fit your inseam, you may not be able to adjust the stem up enough to get a comfortable position between the top of the saddle and the top of the handlebars. A level line off the top of the handlebars should be no more than 2" below a level line off the top of the saddle and the bars should be adjustable up at least another inch. See Roadbikerider.com for article on getting fitted by Fred Matheny. Also see "Serious Cycling", book by Ed Burke. It sounds like you are longer in the torso and shorter in the legs. This is a classic "buy top tube length" scenario.

You need to get on some bikes and see how YOU feel. Once you find one that fits measure the top tube and seat tube and you have YOUR size.

Forget formulas and take advice from shops carefully. Many tend to push what they stock and it is understandable.

Far too many go online for the formulas and end up with bad sizes. Do not fall in that trap.

Only way to know is for you to get on some bikes and see how YOU feel. Everyone is different. There is no way a formula or chart can be used for every INDIVIDUAL.

I like a big bike. I am 6'1", with a 31" inseam (short legs). I probably should have a 56, but my 58 works well with me. I like plenty of room in the cockpit. I think my top tube is 22".

Go to performance,they are having a nice bike sale till the 15th.

go to <http://www.wrenchscience.com>

their sizing system is good

Thanks for everyone's help. After doing a bunch more test rides, I decided on the Allez Comp Cr-Mo 56. The 54 felt a little too small. The 58 felt very comfortable, except when I had to stop and wait for the light. It wasn't painful, but it was dangerously close to being painful. Very painful.

This was consistenlty the most comfortable bike in my test rides. I'm looking forward to picking it up next week!!!

You need to get on some bikes and see how YOU feel. Once you find one that fits measure the top tube and seat tube and you have YOUR size.


Xavier's view is that formulas don't achieve anything, and even qualified advice can be suspect, and that someone looking to purchase a bike should rely only on what a bike feels like to the individual. I really question the practicality of this approach. Many do not know what a bike should feel like in the first place. Many cyclists adjust a saddle high-because it feels right to them at first. The effort they put into the pedals seems to be efficient since they are using the muscles that they normally use in pedestrian activities-the leverage on the pedals feels normal. If they had the time, the inclination, or the money to get professional advice, a coach like Armstrong, or Carmichael would use their experience and observation to suggest immediate changes in riding position and (if it was practical) bike size for most individuals.

Some years ago, sizing before buying a bike was simply a process of standing over the top tube and measuring clearance. That method had some validity since it accounted for falling on the top tube, and the relationship between the stem and the seat height, but it totally ignored upper body length and arm length. If you don't get this right, and you don't make the necessary post-buying adjustments, you will never know what a good ride really feels like.
This is where the fit-sites, and the sizing techniques by Lemond and Marinoni etc. are very valuable. They bring into consideration a bike size and a body positioning alternative that you previously may not have considered. There is little chance that a novice cyclist especially will immediatly stumble upon this in the way that someone may find a comfortable pair of shoes off the rack. Adding to this is salesperson pressure and anxiety over making a costly purchase, and you have a situation where many are making an unfortunate purchase based primarily on "what feels good" to begin with.

My advice, don't fall for the "everyone is different" mantra, as a way of by passing the sites. Actually, since they use an impersonal mathematical model, but based on one's individual stats, they are MORE individual than most other methods of sizing. Utilize the sites such as Wrenchscience.com -but not exclusively. Enter in your personal measurements and see what they would recommend for the ideal bike. Research the different sizing methods offered by Lemond, Armstrong etc. and play around with these results on a friends bike if possible-or ask a bike store to set one up to those specs and give it a good trial run. Ask for the input of the more knowledgable people a the LBS and see if you can come to an overall idea of what is going to work for you long term.

Many are starting out completely in the dark as to what the "ideal fit" should be. Even then there is some room for individual preference. The bike I took to Mexico was purchased on the stand-over method. I have short legs and a long torso as well. The bike really did not fit, the salespeople did not account at all for the torso/leg ratio. But when I rode it it felt comfortable. The point here is that I did not have the knowledge to compare that fit with what experts would suggest the fit should be. My riding position on subsequent bikes is now radically different from then. The stem is 120 mm , not 80. The seat is much lower, and much farther back. I am more relaxed and much more spread out over the top tube. If I knew before I purchased what experienced cyclists understand should be the proper bike fit, I would have gone looking for the top-tube length and seat-tube length at the same time-as being equally important and been much happier much sooner.

My understanding is that mathematical formulas are used in training camps, and by professional coaches and advisors. The sites simply offer this to anyone, and the result is a fit opinion based on an individuals dimensions. The fit site does not have the secondary motive of income through commission sales to complicate the matter. But, the site does not have the advantage of personal observation and experience that a bike store professional has. My advice is get your individual sizing results from the sites and go into the LBS with some idea of what you should be looking for-the salesperson will only respect you for it. The money for new product today is huge-caveat emptor.

Another popular bike sizing method I experienced --- Well I ride a 54 and you look like you are about an inch taller than me.....