Living Car Free - Frugal Cycling, or, Biking for Cheapskates

The "Frugal Living" thread has been a great one (and still is). The subject of saving money on bikes and bike stuff came up so let's see what we can come up with.

Bikes

Gear

Clothing

Parts and components

Racks and panniers

Trailers

?????????

Bikes

Goodwill and Salvation Army can be great sources for cheap older bikes, but unless you know what you're looking for, look, research, THEN buy if it's any good. Beware of Craigslist, many people will try to foist low-end x-mart bikes on you.

Gear

Myself, I mix some stuff up. LBS, x-mart, etc., etc. Wal-Mart's got some decent gear, actually, IMO.

Clothing

Just ordered a couple pairs of shorts that were $15/ea from Performance Bike. Combine it with the coupon code and the $0.25 shipping, and it's damn cheap.

Also, I know a lot of people like the AlertShirts instead of cycling jerseys. They're pretty cheap. But, if you don't need hi-vis... Wal-Mart's got wicking T-shirts for $8.

Well, I mentioned in the other thread that I really like niagaracycle.com for new utilitarian cycling stuff like baskets, fenders, etc.

They seem to have excellent prices on Pyramid Pro brand stuff, but even the more expensive brands like Sunlite are much cheaper there than at the brick & mortor shops. Furthermore, they seem to charge the actual shipping cost (unlike many online retailers with nominally discounted prices).

That's the best I got, but I'm sure someone can teach me better (perhaps with homemade or noncycling specific stuff?).

hmmmmm, nevermind N/A

Well, I mentioned in the other thread that I really like niagaracycle.com for new utilitarian cycling stuff like baskets, fenders, etc.

They seem to have excellent prices on Pyramid Pro brand stuff, but even the more expensive brands like Sunlite are much cheaper there than at the brick & mortor shops. Furthermore, they seem to charge the actual shipping cost (unlike many online retailers with nominally discounted prices).

That's the best I got, but I'm sure someone can teach me better (perhaps with homemade or noncycling specific stuff?).

The Sunlite gear seems to be a great value to me. Plus JB Importers will warranty anything made by Sunlite.

The "Frugal Living" thread has been a great one (and still is). The subject of saving money on bikes and bike stuff came up so let's see what we can come up with.

Bikes Free Giveaways, Dumpster Diving, Thrift Shops, Cop Shop Auctions (never got anything there though) used bikes at the LBS, Garage Sales, CL etc. Most of my better bikes were purchased but usually at 50%-90% off of new cost. Best recent score IMHO was my 2003 Staiger Florida for $150 at the LBS. It is a $700+ German city bike with fenders, racks, good lights, hub generator, 700c wheels and a 21 speed drive train in excellent condition. My favorite bike is my 1972 Raleigh Superbe that was purchased from a fellow BF'er. Right now I am building up a cruiser/rat rod bike out of an old cruiser frame that I liberated from my wife's Dad's barn (along with 7 other bikes) I buy a couple of parts for it every week out of my allowance. By the time I get done I might have $150 in it and it will be a one of a kind.


Gear ?

Clothing I normally wear street clothing when riding. Some things I pay full price for others come from the thrift shop.

Parts and components Used from my parts bike collection or the local "cheap" LBS that carries the Kenda tires and Pyramid components. Some of the odd ball stuff is off Ebay or ordered off the internet from who ever has it.

Racks and panniers make my own racks and panniers (but haven't done any in ages), acquire in trades with friends, buy on scratch and dent sale from Arkel, REI, Campmor or?

Trailers Build, buy, borrow (see bike acquisition)

?????????


My bikes are my hobby and a part of my lifestyle, every time someone shakes their head at the number and the diversity of my bikes I just smile. I don't own a hot car, or a Harley, I don't smoke or go to sports events, bars or movies (very often) I don't go "shopping" just to spend money, I don't have a house full of expensive electronics, in fact the last 2 televisions I got I "won" at company picnics. I don't have cable and don't particularly want it (except during the Tour de France:p ) All of my bikes together are probably worth the price of a couple of very high end road bikes or MTB's. But they bring me joy and I enjoy them. I also get great satisfaction from being able to provide someone that really wants/needs a bike with a safe solid bike to ride, and to provide parts and mechanical assistance to some of the utility cyclists in our town.

Aaron:)

A reliable source for good used bikes is, well, a bike store that specializes in used bikes; I bought mine for $75, and it's nice, too. Craigslist is good, as long as you know what you're looking for, and don't automatically assume that the seller has a good heart. Accessories like racks and fenders can be bought used, too, if you're patient.

That said, there are some things that one should pay full price for, like tires and cassettes. And panniers. And rain gear. For example, I paid through the nose for my Ortlieb waterproof panniers, which actually cost more than my bike, but, after a long, very wet winter, those things have proven themselves to be worth every penny; I'm now very glad I sucked it up and got them. (It's nice to be able to ride through a rain storm and arrive at your job with totally dry papers and work clothes.) And if you're carfree, you're saving enough money that you can afford to pay a bit more for really good equipment every now and then...

Bikes I have a few, the most expensive I bought new which was a $700 AU dahon folder the rest are built from parts I get given or buy off ebay really cheap ( example I won 6 bikes and scooters last week for $10 :)

Gear whatever works

Clothing I have one bright red and yellow shirt made from some weird stuff that breaths and is light that I wear when in traffic apart from that it's whatever I have on ( and my helmet which I spent a bit on from the lbs )

Parts and components see bikes

Racks and panniers Salvo's , Vinnies , I got a set of panniers from them a month ago for $6.00 .. I also got a set of brand new Tioga basket panniers off ebay for $25.50 posted to me

TrailersI make my own and enjoy doing it

Bikes: I just started into cycling, got an early 80's Schwinn Super Le Tour from ebay for just shipping pretty much. I spent the big bucks on a specialized MTB from the LBS. I constantly browse craigslist and ebay for deals though.

Gear: I bought some new gear online, but have been doing research into cheaper stuff until I can afford the high end jacket and shirts. I bought a couple of jersey's from ebay(they sell pretty cheap sometimes.) And again I just watch for deals on ebay and craigslist. Though thanks to this thread I will start checking the local thrift shops.

Clothing: Sort of what I put down for gear. Check CL and Ebay, local shops and garage sales, thrift shops are great.

Part and Components: See above two

Racks and Panniers: I scored a cheap set for the dailu commute from ebay, I am currently saving for a pair of ortliebs. For right now I just get what keeps stuff dry and fits the budget.

Trailers: I love building my own equipment, plenty of plans can be found online and trailers built at a fraction of the cost they sell for in stores.

Note: I would also like to add that I have built two bike stands that I use in my garage right now(one currently holding my Schwinn road frame.) Plenty of plans online for your garage/shop and can be built cheap. I built a nice sturdy stand from steel tubing that just threaded together for less then $40 and found all the parts at my local Home Depot. The project from start to finish took me less than an hour.

bikes: buy used parts on ebay, build yourself.

clothing: I pay a lot for bike clothes, and enjoy every dime spent.

rain gear: I bought a plastic "trash bag" jacket from performance on sale for 10$. ended up being a waste of money, it was a complete sweat box, and fell apart after a few weeks. As far as I can tell, my 80$ cannondale jacket will last me years, and is way more comfortable to ride with.

long ride food/hydration: long rides are miserable if you starve/dehydrate. I buy electrolyte tabs from a running store that gives me 20% off for buying a whole case. Gels and bars, I wait for a good deal from performance, then buy up a bunch.

You only need so many clothes and bike parts. After that, biking is way cheap.

I agree with the consensus, better quality bike stuff is often cheaper in the long run than low quality. IMO biking actually enhances your life as opposed to things most people seem to spend their spare money on (electronics, movies, beer, smokes, etc.) which are just used to keep themselves entertained for a while. The sense of accomplishment, health benefits, experiences and such gained from spending your time on a bike, aren't even comparable to sitting on your ass watching a movie.

Bikes

1st Bike: Decent quality older Dept. Store MTB in near new condition (must have been mostly stored for a lot of years) - Thrift shop $30

2nd Bike: Vintage steel frame hybrid in very good condition - Flea market $20

Gear

Bar-end mirror - New from LBS
Bar ends - New from LBS
Small Blackburn pump - New from LBS
U-lock - Flea Market $2

Clothing

The same clothing I wear every day, all from thrift shop.
Cycling shorts - Thrift shop $4
Lands End Rain jacket - Thrift shop $4
Rain pants - Thrift shop - $4

Parts and components

New AL wheels - Free (given by freind)
Casset for new wheel - $30 from LBS
Seat post - $20 New from LBS
Vetta VSA saddle in perfect condition - Flea market $2

Racks and panniers

Rack - Used with blinkie already attached $15 - from LBS
Pannier rack - DIY using bamboo trellises from garden shop $4
Panniers - adapted from tote bags from thrift shop ~$4 each
Rack trunk - rectangualr golf bag from thrift shop $4, secured using remaining bamboo trellis material.
Small handlebar pouch - Thrift shop $4

Trailers

Planning to build one from plans found online

I got cycling shorts from the local thrift shop, 4 pairs for $5. Decent brands too.

I got cycling shorts from the local thrift shop, 4 pairs for $5. Decent brands too.

I live in a serious low wealth area so higher end cycling stuff doesn't seem to make it to the thrift shops and flea markets. 99.9% of the bikes that are available around here are Kmart or Walmart bikes in broken condition, and usually priced at 95% of new:( I have NEVER seen cycling clothes in the thrift shops. I do get the occasional Lands End or LL Bean jacket. I did score a brand new (still had tags on it) Geoffrey Beene wool sweater a couple of weeks ago for $.50:D Retail on those suckers is probably $75 or so:eek:

Aaron:)

I went to the Army surplus store for my winter goggle ($5) and a hood to wear under the helmet. For eyewear, AOSafety Landscaper Safety Glasses from Home Depot ($10) are excellent.

I ride in waterproof hiking boots ($22 at Payless Shoesource) so I am always ready for unexpected rain, but that footwear might not be acceptable to everyone.

A local hospital (Family Resource Center in Abbott Northwestern Hospital in Minneapolis) sells helmets for $15 to encourage people to use them. They are not so stylish, but they meet the crash standards.

One can save a ton of money by making a homemade headlight out of an MR16 halogen bulb from the hardware store and some PVC pipe fittings. You have to like that sort of activity and not mind the dorky appearance, but if you do, then for about $60 you can get a light that rivals the multi-hundred-dollar commercial lights in brightness.

I also have splurged on some Ortlieb gear, the waterproof messenger backpack ($115 at the time), my one piece of high-end gear. That's been worth every penny.

I live in a serious low wealth area so higher end cycling stuff doesn't seem to make it to the thrift shops and flea markets. 99.9% of the bikes that are available around here are Kmart or Walmart bikes in broken condition, and usually priced at 95% of new:( I have NEVER seen cycling clothes in the thrift shops. I do get the occasional Lands End or LL Bean jacket. I did score a brand new (still had tags on it) Geoffrey Beene wool sweater a couple of weeks ago for $.50:D Retail on those suckers is probably $75 or so:eek:

Aaron:)
This has been my experience in Lansing also. I find better clothing in Traverse City, an upscale community that I visit frequently.

I keep an eye out for soft wool sweaters also. Cashmere is soft enough to be worn like a T-shirt in the winter--warmer than Underarmour and available (thrift stores) for $3 or $4. And I feel like a millionaire when I wear it! :)

Besides thrift stores, I look in discount stores for cold weather and wet weather gear. There's a trickle-down of technology, so the low-end stuff of this year is better than the high-end stuff you could buy a couple years ago.

This thread is really great, keeps the tips coming. :)

I tend to treat my bikes more as an investment, since they get used so heavily and i'm a fan of lo maintenance :) so i don't mind spending a little where it counts

Bikes several years old, a step or 2 down from top of the line. if the top o line was model z and cost $6000, then model x was probably $2000 and offered 92% of the performance. 3 years later a lightly used example should be a third the new price or less.

Gear build yer own :) or wait for Nashbar close-outs. Adapt gear not specificallt for cycling. the $6 safety glasses from Lab Safety Supply work great, come in different lens colors, and don't cost $100+ like the name-brand stuff.

Clothing Target, x-mart mark-down racks, thrift shops, free t-shirts from vendors at work! :)

Parts and components similar to bikes: I've seen a lightly used 105 rear derailler go for like $10. otherwise, i bite the bullet & buy the nice stuff, on occasions where it's gonna get the heck used out of it. my x.0 rear derailler cost $80 about 4 years and a zillion clean, trouble-free shifts ago

Racks and panniers free or cheap backpack....

Trailers ours is a $75 Target model.... homemade ones pique my interest, never tried making one.

?????????

acroy,
I agree on treating the bikes as an investment. That is why I jumped on my Staiger and I didn't hesitate to drop over $130 on my 35 year old Raleigh Superbe. It will still be clicking along long after the engine is gone:p I have one Raleigh 3 speed that has had the living crap beat out of it for almost 20 years and over 30,000 miles of commuting. I bought it in 1982 for $25 from a pawn shop, used it for 9 years, gave it to my brother. He and his roomate(s) rode it for another 5-6 years, then I got it back used it for a couple more and put it in storage. I dug it out the other day, added some oil to the hub, pumped up the dry rotted tires and rode it and it still rides like it did. Missing some paint, needs tires and a general overhaul. But still a very viable transportation option. Try that with some of the stuff that is for sale today:D Any product I buy I try to buy the best value for the money and to buy the best that I can afford. I look for simplicity, repairable, ease of maintenance and durability. NOT cheapest prices. Unfortunately most of the stuff made today is designed to be obsolete and thrown away in a short period of time. So I quite often end up with stuff that is considered antique but if it works like it supposed to I am happy. Most people think that frugal=cheap but nothing could be further from the truth.

Aaron:)

What are some home products you guys use to replace the high end stuff. For say grease, polish, etc.

I have heard of some people using machine grease and so forth instead of paying out the nose for the specialty shop grease and lube.

I've used simple green on the winter beater to clean it, but don't know of other house holds to replace the other stuff.

What are some home products you guys use to replace the high end stuff. For say grease, polish, etc.

I have heard of some people using machine grease and so forth instead of paying out the nose for the specialty shop grease and lube.

I've used simple green on the winter beater to clean it, but don't know of other house holds to replace the other stuff.
I use Lubrimatic Marine Trailer Bearing grease for all my bike grease needs. Here's a nice big thread that explains what's up with that.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=139241

What are some home products you guys use to replace the high end stuff. For say grease, polish, etc.

I have heard of some people using machine grease and so forth instead of paying out the nose for the specialty shop grease and lube.

I've used simple green on the winter beater to clean it, but don't know of other house holds to replace the other stuff.
The main grease I use is the green marine grease from wherever. I know that WM and KM carry it along with most auto parts stores. I have an old fashioned oil can that I keep 10w30 in and a quart will last over a year.
I also still have some Phil Wood grease it is on the expensive side but a tube lasts quite a while, and to tell you the truth I am not so sure that it isn't the marine grease repackaged, looks about the same. The Phil oil is good stuff and bottle will last for several years. For cleaners I buy an orange cleaner from the dollar store that comes in a spray bottle, best bang for the buck.

Aaron:)

I also still have some Phil Wood grease it is on the expensive side but a tube lasts quite a while, and to tell you the truth I am not so sure that it isn't the marine grease repackaged, looks about the same.
Read that thread I posted above. You'll be even less sure it isn't

There's also a thread about using (on the chain) Liquid Wrench Dry Lube.

Except TDL Blaster is $2/can cheaper, and pretty much the same thing. So, for $3/can, you can get a good dry lube.

Read that thread I posted above. You'll be even less sure it isn't
I did notice a difference in the PW grease tube from 12 years ago and a tube I got from my brother for my B'day last year...must be suffering from the "Chinese Syndrome":rolleyes: :(

Aaron:)

Dawn dish detergent is a fantastic degreaser. WD-40 is a lousy lube but a good cleaner.

There's also a thread about using (on the chain) Liquid Wrench Dry Lube.

Except TDL Blaster is $2/can cheaper, and pretty much the same thing. So, for $3/can, you can get a good dry lube.
I prefer Boeshield. I also use it around the house for light lubrication needs. It's kept my jalousies operating smoothly for the last couple of years on one application.

What about metric sized hardware? Most bike bits are metric sized, but most hardware stores in the US don't carry metric sizes.

Where do you get screws, washers, etc for your bikes?

What about metric sized hardware? Most bike bits are metric sized, but most hardware stores in the US don't carry metric sizes.

Where do you get screws, washers, etc for your bikes?


Really? I go to my local hardware store and I can usually find what I am looking for. If I'm not sure then I go to my LBS and ask them, they usually know what I need.

What about metric sized hardware? Most bike bits are metric sized, but most hardware stores in the US don't carry metric sizes.

Where do you get screws, washers, etc for your bikes?
Local Hardware or Home Center. Most of the fender bolts etc are 5mm. I just bought a whole hand full of cap screws the other day in that sized. There are fastener specialty stores like Fastenal too. I also only buy stainless. Cost a bit more but will last much longer.

Aaron:)

Not sure about small hardware stores, but the big box ones tend to have a rather wide selection of metric stuff.

We need to get some more suggestions/ideas for this thread. :)

Bungee cords — Old tire tubes are ideal for this. Cut the tube and squeeze out all the air. Then thread on the ends from an old bungee cord. (You can find old cords on the roads.) Knot each end of the tube and you'll have cords that will last for years.

Pant clips — For less than $1 each, get a nylon and velcro cord holder from Wal-Mart. This is big enough to attach around pant legs to keep the pants out of the chain.

Water bottle — a one-litre pop bottle fits into a standard bottle cage. It doesn't have the fancy nozzle but it will provide a cheap source of hydration. I've seen this used many times. (I have enough water bottles so I don't need to use this method.)

Handlebar tape — Hockey tape works for this. It's not pretty, but it's a lot cheaper than handlebar tape. I've used this on older bikes and on bar ends. This is a quick and dirty solution. It's not meant for long-term use. Handlebar tape will last a lot longer.

Tail light repair — My tail light mount broke this winter, but the light itself was in good working condition. I picked up an alligator clip from an electrical supply store and used epoxy glue to attach it to the tail light. I then attached a short strap to the saddle of my bike. The tail light hangs from there and is visible.

Not sure about small hardware stores, but the big box ones tend to have a rather wide selection of metric stuff.

Actually my local big box store stopped at 4mm in size WTF? The local old timey hardware had a much better selection...YMMV

Aaron:)

Here, the mom and pop stores look at you funny if you say metric. :(

What about metric sized hardware? Most bike bits are metric sized, but most hardware stores in the US don't carry metric sizes.

Where do you get screws, washers, etc for your bikes?

I just struck out trying to find a metric oval head machine screw sized M4x 0.7 in 30mm length - nada at lowes or homeless despot. The screw is for the Mil-Remo bar end plugs on my Professional. But that's ok because i found someone selling NOS Mil-Remos in the colors i want so i ordered three pairs!

Costs - forget it!

Bikes - My Professional cost me over $800 thirty years ago

Gear - Gloves - my latest pair that i don't like was over $50

Clothing - I usually buy commerative or vintage Campy - World Champ or TI-Raleigh jerseys at $40-60 a pop

Parts and components - Campy SR costs a bundle to buy as an upgrade or replacement!

Racks and panniers - I don't do these items.

Trailers - you're kidding - right?

????????? - lubricants - I use either marine grade bearing grease - but a grease gun tube lasts years. I also use Campy "Special Grease" still have my first container and haven't even opened my second container. Boeshield, etc is good for light lube requirements and corrosion preventative and I'm still trying to find a good chain lube that diesn't turn my Regina Oro chain and freewheel black in two days!

Basically - I don't bike on the cheap - never did.

Costs - forget it!

Bikes - My Professional cost me over $800 thirty years ago

Basically - I don't bike on the cheap - never did.

Your bike has cost you less than $30 a year and you're riding in fine style. Even with pricey upgrades, your cycling costs each year are still quite low.

Frugal living and frugal cycling sometimes involves spending a little more on quality goods that last instead of bargains that don't last. Nothing's as expensive as poorly made cheap merchandise since you'll soon have to replace it.

Aside from accessories (latest new lights etc, ) i've kept my cycling costs down to $4 last year (tube) , and about 2 bucks this year (for a patchkit)

Since I am new to cycling and making it my new way of commuting, things were a little more expensive for me. But I will share some lessons learned. :)

Thrift Stores- CL, GoodWill, Local thrift shops. I always look in these places before I buy the name brand item from Nash or Performance. I have found some nice wool sweaters, a reflective jacket that zipped into a vest and even found a pair of shorts with the tag still on them once.

I found plans to make my own bike stands online. I made one from threaded piping that just holds the bike off of the ground. I use it to wash the bikes and lubing.

I found plans for a PVC seat clamp bike rack that allows me to spin the bike a 360 degrees clockwise/counter clockwise.

Both stands were made for less then $40, they're not your top of the line park tool stand. But I haven't had trouble with either of them yet. Both have allowed me to do repairs and maintenance just fine.

What about metric sized hardware? Most bike bits are metric sized, but most hardware stores in the US don't carry metric sizes.

Where do you get screws, washers, etc for your bikes?

I get a lot of fasteners off of old bikes!
Also, there's a good hardware store in my town with a MASSIVE stock of fasteners. BTW, M4x.80=U.S. 10-32. They're basically interchangeable, and the U.S. stainless is as cheap as the metric non-stainless. Go figure.
Good thread! I'll be back later.

Each year in February or March, I take my good bike down to the bike shop for an annual tune-up and servicing. In addition to making sure everything is adjusted and tightened properly, the mechanics will also notice if there are problems I am likely to encounter. I see this as preventative maintenance. It's ot all that expensive and it could save me some aggravation and significant expense later on. (I don't bother doing this with my beater bike.)

To amplify on my earlier post: I have more than once acquired an old bike either free, or at a yard sale, or from Goodwill or CL and turned around and re-"cycled" various parts onto other bikes. I could get $50 or more in parts for $10 or even less. Having free bike clinics in town for low-income people helps a lot as well.
The bikes themselves? I try not to pay for them at all. The three I currently own were all free:
-My neighbor gave me my Fuji S10-S.
-I scored my Trek 830 at the curbside wearing a "Free Bike" sign.
-My Trek 730 came from the local build-a-bike program, as did my wife's Bridgestone City-light.
I hit my local Goodwill once a week or so, always making a point to look for bike-related stuff.
If one is already living a frugal life, frugal cycling will naturally flow from that source. Thrift shops, yard sales, CL, free piles, and being a scrounge and a scavenger become, with practice, part of one's being.
BTW, check out the awesome LL Bean messemger bag I scored off of a free pile last night:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/boysrus/185_8552.jpg

That's how we roll in Oly!

Bikes I've had good luck with Craigslist since I don't live anyplace that has enough thrift stores/garage sales to really find much. Older hardtail mtbs are the best for commuting imo. Slap some fat slicks on them with tire liners made from old/small knobbies and call it a day, no flats ever! They have the gearing to take just about anything and can handle all manner of pot holes and curbs. Heavy bikes tend to get a ton of crap, but since rolling resistance is a relatively small component all they need is appropriate gearing to be useful.

Clothing Shorts over padded bike shorts and t-shirts are fine. The best thing is to schedule fifteen minutes after/during the ride to cool down before you get where you're going. Binder clips for jeans, $1.07 for a bunch of 'em.

Parts and components Crr, CdA, and gearing are crucial, especially gearing. Build according to the route and weather.

Racks and panniers Rear rack w/ a milk crate.

Operating Costs Food is tremendously expensive per kWh and is one of the largest costs for a frugal cyclist. A DIY electric bike can go a long way towards cutting those costs if the rider has a stable and healthy diet. Input however much we feel like during the ride. Obviously this isn't the case if we want to loose weight, or even just burn a bunch of calories, but the cost of energy is significant. Only cost effective if used for more than a year and we know what we're doing, but the difference in cost per mile can be as much as a bike compared to a car.

Tools A must. Don't have to be expensive, they just have to work. A small welder is nice to have.

Slap some slicks on them with tire liners made from old/small knobbies and call it a day.


Sounds like a great idea. Could you please explain how you do it?

I used (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/thaticktockman/innertube.jpg) 2" slicks w/ some smaller generic wal-mart mtb tires I had lying around. Cut the inner linings off and cut the tube someplace, then put 'em in the bigger slick and enjoy. Rolling resistance will increase slightly, but imo it was worth it compared to getting flats. My friend's dad suggested this to me after I told him how many flats I was getting from goat tails, pins, etc... I tried gator skins, tire liners, those funky smelling tubes, and nothing works better than this. To get a flat whatever punctures the slick has to be long enough to also go through the distance between the knobby insert and slick, and at the correct angle to go straight through the knobby insert and into the inner tube, which is pretty much nothing ime. They are a bear to get on and off, but I had no flats after I started using them.

I used 2" slicks w/ some smaller generic wal-mart mtb tires I had lying around. Cut the inner linings off and cut the tube someplace, then put 'em in the bigger slick and enjoy. Rolling resistance will increase slightly, but imo it was worth it compared to getting flats. My friend's dad suggested this to me after I told him how many flats I was getting from goat tails, pins, etc... I tried gator skins, tire liners, those funky smelling tubes, and nothing works better than this. To get a flat whatever punctures the slick has to be long enough to also go through the distance between the knobby insert and slick, and at the correct angle to go straight through the knobby insert and into the inner tube, which is pretty much nothing ime. They are a bear to get on and off, but I had no flats after I started using them.
So basically a tire within a tire. Very ingenious! The slicks I have now are only 1 1/2" so I'm not sure this would work for me. But I'll file the idea away and use it in the future. Thanks for the help! :)

You might be able to use the 1 1/2 slicks as liners for a pair of 2" slicks

Your bike has cost you less than $30 a year and you're riding in fine style. Even with pricey upgrades, your cycling costs each year are still quite low.

Frugal living and frugal cycling sometimes involves spending a little more on quality goods that last instead of bargains that don't last. Nothing's as expensive as poorly made cheap merchandise since you'll soon have to replace it.


I didn't think of it that way - yes I agree that buying a quality item will pay for itself over time - if you maintain the items. That's why I went for the Raleigh pro and Canon F-1 cameras.

I do all my own PM by the way - I got very good at it when i was younger. about the only thing I can't do is true a freshly laced wheel - no trueing stand and no spoke tension measuring capability. I can and do lace my own wheel though.

For handlebar tape on my older bike, I'm using an old, thin tube. I put some old cloth rim strip under it to keep it from sliding around, but it's worked fine for over a month now. I'm thinking about putting another layer on for a nice cushy ride.

I stretched it fairly tight while putting it on and knotted it when I got to the middle. It's not pretty, but I like it!

Any product I buy I try to buy the best value for the money and to buy the best that I can afford. I look for simplicity, repairable, ease of maintenance and durability. NOT cheapest prices.

Aaron:)

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."

- spotted on a plaque at a picture framing shop this past summer.