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norfolk bolt
 
Can anyone give me the distance from the top center of the seat post to the handlebar centre on a bike friday when the post is fully extended, or near abouts? Cheers.


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spambait11
 
This will vary as most Bike Fridays have custom sizing. Are you asking about their stock models?


norfolk bolt
 
This will vary as most Bike Fridays have custom sizing. Are you asking about their stock models?



I understand that the custom sizing would be stem reach and seat position? All the frames are the same dimensions?

All frames have a wheelbase of 102 cm ? Ok then from the top center of the seat post to the top center of the steerer tube, both tubes at max allowable distance.


Speedo
 
I understand that the custom sizing would be stem reach and seat position? All the frames are the same dimensions?

All frames have a wheelbase of 102 cm ? Ok then from the top center of the seat post to the top center of the steerer tube, both tubes at max allowable distance.

I think only the forks and rear triangles are standard. The seatposts, center beam, and stems are all made to order. I found a picture (http://www.greenbelt.org/images/getinvolved/events/go_greenbelt/photogallery/2004/day5/Day5-dianamike.jpg) of two Fridays side by side. You can see that the stems, seatposts and main beams are different.

Speedo


invisiblehand
 
I think only the forks and rear triangles are standard. The seatposts, center beam, and stems are all made to order.

I agree. The boss and I have Bike Fridays with different wheelbases.


DaFriMon
 
The simplest thing to do would be to Email Bike Friday for the information. I haven't checked their FAQ, but I'm assuming that you've done that, and that it isn't there. Even if buying one is only a remote possibility for you, I'm sure they'll be glad to answer your questions. If you're in New Zealand, I wouldn't worry about getting unwanted phone calls from their salesmen.


cooker
 
I just bought one and they made it to fit me.


CHenry
 
Which range of Bike Fridays are you referring to? In single bikes, there are three basic frame designs: the Air Friday line, the lazy-F-framed bikes like the NWT, and Pocket Rocket, and the new Tikit. They are made to order, but that does not mean they aren't speced in stock dimensions. As others have said, seatpost height and steerer extension and stem will vary, and there are some variances likely in the main tube (i.e., toptube) There is generally a limited range of main tube sizes, since all have to fit folded into the Samsonite hardside rolling case. As far as I can see, the chainstay lengths and rear triangle lengths are all the same.


noahj
 
Which range of Bike Fridays are you referring to? In single bikes, there are three basic frame designs: the Air Friday line, the lazy-F-framed bikes like the NWT, and Pocket Rocket, and the new Tikit. They are made to order, but that does not mean they aren't speced in stock dimensions. As others have said, seatpost height and steerer extension and stem will vary, and there are some variances likely in the main tube (i.e., toptube) There is generally a limited range of main tube sizes, since all have to fit folded into the Samsonite hardside rolling case. As far as I can see, the chainstay lengths and rear triangle lengths are all the same.

You are mostly correct. For the NWT, Rocket, and Air, the main tube length will vary. The triangles will be the same. Size of the suitcase is not a limiting factor, unless you need a very long bike. Even then, the crankset and chainring you order affect whether the bike fits into the case. For example, large chainrings require that you remove the right crank in order to fit the bike into the case (no big deal, such a crank will have a bolt that allows you to remove the ring without a crank puller). Removing the right crank is a good idea anyway, as the chainring is very easily damaged in transit. Trust me on this one.


jasong
 
crank will have a bolt that allows you to remove the ring without a crank puller). Removing the right crank is a good idea anyway, as the chainring is very easily damaged in transit. Trust me on this one.

While this isn't a time consuming process, I really don't think these fasteners were designed for more than a few dozen insertions/extractions. Things start breaking.


noahj
 
While this isn't a time consuming process, I really don't think these fasteners were designed for more than a few dozen insertions/extractions. Things start breaking.

I really don't know, as I've only removed the crank a couple of times. The extraction bolt is aluminum, as is the crank. If the treads on the bolt strip, you just get another. If the threads on the crank strip, you've got a serious problem.

But I'm serous about removing the crank. My NWT has a single chainring with a bashguard, and it's been fine. My wife's has a triple, and the chainring has been bent every time we've flown with it.


jasong
 
I really don't know, as I've only removed the crank a couple of times. The extraction bolt is aluminum, as is the crank. If the treads on the bolt strip, you just get another. If the threads on the crank

Exactly - try finding a new crank bolt in a strange environment, especially one that works with a one-key system so you don't need a crank extractor. A very standard, one would think, stem bolt took me about 2 hours to find after visiting several bike shops in France last time this occurred.

It's not a well designed bike that needs fasteners removed to fit into a suitcase.


noahj
 
Exactly - try finding a new crank bolt in a strange environment, especially one that works with a one-key system so you don't need a crank extractor. A very standard, one would think, stem bolt took me about 2 hours to find after visiting several bike shops in France last time this occurred.

It's not a well designed bike that needs fasteners removed to fit into a suitcase.

The extraction bolt is stock Shimano. Most of their cracks use it now. And most BFs do fit into the case without removing the crank.


jasong
 
Actually, I think you have to have "permission" to buy this item.. And it's nothing you'll ever see on the shelf. Look at Aebike QBP catalog under the 1key part, I don't thin Shimano authorizes resellers to sell certain components. Regardless, try doing this in some weird place.

The extraction bolt is stock Shimano. Most of their cracks use it now. And most BFs do fit into the case without removing the crank.


CHenry
 
You are mostly correct. For the NWT, Rocket, and Air, the main tube length will vary. The triangles will be the same. Size of the suitcase is not a limiting factor, unless you need a very long bike. Even then, the crankset and chainring you order affect whether the bike fits into the case. For example, large chainrings require that you remove the right crank in order to fit the bike into the case (no big deal, such a crank will have a bolt that allows you to remove the ring without a crank puller). Removing the right crank is a good idea anyway, as the chainring is very easily damaged in transit. Trust me on this one.

The case is ultimately the size-limiting factor for the main tube. The forks and rear triangles are all common parts. Removing a 52t isn't necessary, but maybe if you are using a Moulton-type 60t, that might be different. I would be curious to know why you think it is; does BF recommend removal?


invisiblehand
 
The case is ultimately the size-limiting factor for the main tube. The forks and rear triangles are all common parts. Removing a 52t isn't necessary, but maybe if you are using a Moulton-type 60t, that might be different. I would be curious to know why you think it is; does BF recommend removal?

I don't know why the crank would be an issue. But a packed Bike Friday with a big chainring would place the chainring very close to the edge of the case increasing the likelihood of damage to the chainring.


noahj
 
The case is ultimately the size-limiting factor for the main tube. The forks and rear triangles are all common parts. Removing a 52t isn't necessary, but maybe if you are using a Moulton-type 60t, that might be different. I would be curious to know why you think it is; does BF recommend removal?

The Fridays rear hinge is just below the bottom bracket, so the maximum length is the main tube plus the radius of the chainring. My NWY has a 48 tooth ring, and fits just fine in the older carleton cases with the crank in place. The PRP has a monster 60-tooth, and while it will fit the old case with the ring on, the clearance is nearly zero. BF's instructions are to remove the crank for this bike. The newer Samsonite cases are larger, so the PRP fits with the crank on. I'd still pull it though, as the chainring is the part most likely to get damaged when TSA does its juju.


invisiblehand
 
The Fridays rear hinge is just below the bottom bracket, so the maximum length is the main tube plus the radius of the chainring. My NWY has a 48 tooth ring, and fits just fine in the older carleton cases with the crank in place. The PRP has a monster 60-tooth, and while it will fit the old case with the ring on, the clearance is nearly zero. BF's instructions are to remove the crank for this bike. The newer Samsonite cases are larger, so the PRP fits with the crank on. I'd still pull it though, as the chainring is the part most likely to get damaged when TSA does its juju.

Why wouldn't you just remove the chainring?

-G


noahj
 
Why wouldn't you just remove the chainring?

-G

one bolt versus five?


invisiblehand
 
one bolt versus five?

Good point.

I just thought that the chainring would be easier to store in a small folder and put elsewhere in the case. I would think that the crank would be more problematic.


Peterpan1
 
There was an explanation on the other forum, of some details of BF construction, this included the strategy for rear stays based on a bontrager type design with bends that allows each stay to be more or less the same package of parts while being adjustible for each build. From this I assumed they were using different length parts.

Stays normally do vary since the rear triangle needs to keep the faith with the rearward placement of the butt as it goes up and out. Sure catalogs for normal bikes often claim uniform CS lengths, but that claim usually doesn't hold up to the application of the tape. It's just one of those buying numbers punters tend to carry around and use to filter their purchases, without much thought, so the real numbers seem not to make it past the marketing department in all cases.


jasong
 
Good point.

I just thought that the chainring would be easier to store in a small folder and put elsewhere in the case. I would think that the crank would be more problematic.

Have you fit a folder into a suitcase? Typically anything fairly small, ie a chaining with crank attached, is easy to stash somewhere. Even in the other suitcase. It's the big things like a fork, or drop handlebars, or a wheel that's difficult to find room for.

Getting the crank off also implies that the pedal doesn't need to be removed, if that's also an issue.


invisiblehand
 
Have you fit a folder into a suitcase?

Yep ...

Typically anything fairly small, ie a chaining with crank attached, is easy to stash somewhere. Even in the other suitcase. It's the big things like a fork, or drop handlebars, or a wheel that's difficult to find room for.

Getting the crank off also implies that the pedal doesn't need to be removed, if that's also an issue.

What I find is that things tend to flop around inside the case. For instance, when I remove the pedals, it is generally a good idea to wrap up the pedals and try to stash it into a particular corner. Otherwise, the pedals on occasion will scratch or ding the bike.

A crank is somewhat odd shaped; particularly the new ones with the external BB. I think that it would fit somewhere and could be wrapped up. Probably not as well as a single chainring but there are pluses and minuses to the strategy.


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